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  #951  
Old 08-16-2017, 08:35 AM
rbelton rbelton is offline
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Here's the original transfer case gear replacement DIY:

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  #952  
Old 08-16-2017, 08:36 AM
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Transfer Case Actuator potential free fix!

Quote:
Originally Posted by swampX3 View Post
>the last video is kaput ....can y'all redo it ????



>also ....now you are well on the road with ISTA you can replace your battery and recode the new one whenever you need to



>also ...dig into your ISTA wiring diagrams for the sensors and see if they are self powered or otherwise
Yea Ista is great! Will redo the last video or shoot another one later today. But simply, the voltage was in 12.5-13.7V while driving at low speeds. And in 13.2-14.0V while car stopped and engine was running.

Checking Wiring diagram is a great idea. Do you mean speed sensors power supply? And how do I verify and confirm whether or not they are self powered?
Thanks again


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Last edited by AlphaBetaX5; 08-16-2017 at 08:51 AM.
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  #953  
Old 08-16-2017, 08:37 AM
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AlphaBetaX5 AlphaBetaX5 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by swampX3 View Post
>this might come unhandy one day





Going to watch it closely this afternoon. Thanks


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  #954  
Old 08-16-2017, 08:45 AM
swampX3 swampX3 is offline
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ground straps checked ???

>ok ....before splashing the dollars on a new battery ....gotta slip under or find a way to check your grounds ....ground straps

>as the X machines age there are more and more issues electrically because the ground straps rot .....sometimes rot at the connection points to the chassis ....sometimes they may look ok if traded cable BUT give a tug and they're rotted internally.....some are just plain old cracked or fasteners loose

>if you can access the starter by wiggling in then double check the tightness of its side of the ground strap/cable

>also can use a meter to check ground resistance like Mustie explains about ohms in the front of this one

https://www.youtube.com/attribution_...em-uploademail
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  #955  
Old 08-16-2017, 08:49 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by swampX3 View Post
>this might come in handy one day



Just watched it!!! Super simple and easy!!!

So here is the plan now:
Check the actual voltage on the battery poles.
Check the wiring diagram of speed sensors.
Check the voltage on the actuator motor plug.
Change the transfer case oil. (Already planned and ordered supplies).
Research a new battery, change /code/register it.


One thing is bugging me is that car jolts when cornering and the sharper the turn, the more agile the car gets. How can a low voltage battery explain this?



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  #956  
Old 08-16-2017, 08:55 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by swampX3 View Post
>ok ....before splashing the dollars on a new battery ....gotta slip under or find a way to check your grounds ....ground straps



>as the X machines age there are more and more issues electrically because the ground straps rot .....sometimes rot at the connection points to the chassis ....sometimes they may look ok if traded cable BUT give a tug and they're rotted internally.....some are just plain old cracked or fasteners loose



>if you can access the starter by wiggling in then double check the tightness of its side of the ground strap/cable



>also can use a meter to check ground resistance like Mustie explains about ohms in the front of this one



https://www.youtube.com/attribution_...em-uploademail

Definitely!

Changing a battery is a not a cure. There should be some short circuit somewhere to ground. That is not easy to find. But thanks again will check those spots you mentioned.

Any other place I should check for any short?

I feel like I'm going to be a bimmer PhD by the time the car is fixed!!!


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  #957  
Old 08-16-2017, 08:56 AM
swampX3 swampX3 is offline
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volts looking not bad

>you volts reading look OK for an older X machine that's maybe had one battery swap during it's life cycle so far

>I think you will have self powered wheel speed sensors ....just put the last seven of your VIN into realoem.com and check the part and then look at your wiring in ISTA

>let us know how the ground checks come out

>here's another homework project to check on the alternator

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  #958  
Old 08-16-2017, 09:26 AM
bubbaspaarx bubbaspaarx is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hshakarami View Post
Just watched it!!! Super simple and easy!!!

So here is the plan now:
Check the actual voltage on the battery poles.
Check the wiring diagram of speed sensors.
Check the voltage on the actuator motor plug.
Change the transfer case oil. (Already planned and ordered supplies).
Research a new battery, change /code/register it.


One thing is bugging me is that car jolts when cornering and the sharper the turn, the more agile the car gets. How can a low voltage battery explain this?



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The jolting issue sounds very similar to how my x3 was reacting with my busted speed sensors. Sometimes on sharp turns (at slow speeds) one wheel would be wheelspinning then the car would jolt forward in a random way. Straight lines were fine but it was the cornering at slow speeds which caused a fuss. Your speed sensors don't appear to be that bad at all.

The low voltage thing is just something that I have seen in other forums causing the same issues. Can't say why it does but probs something to do with incorrect readings from things like the sensors or the actuator itself.

I seem to remember that my car gave a transfer case error before things started getting really bad the it was all speed sensor issues and 'air gap' things.

Can I just double check. You've already confirmed you got star rated tyres front and back right? And are your alloys the staggered ones or same front and back. Just want to be certain.




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  #959  
Old 08-16-2017, 09:43 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bubbaspaarx View Post
The jolting issue sounds very similar to how my x3 was reacting with my busted speed sensors. Sometimes on sharp turns (at slow speeds) one wheel would be wheelspinning then the car would jolt forward in a random way. Straight lines were fine but it was the cornering at slow speeds which caused a fuss. Your speed sensors don't appear to be that bad at all.

The low voltage thing is just something that I have seen in other forums causing the same issues. Can't say why it does but probs something to do with incorrect readings from things like the sensors or the actuator itself.

I seem to remember that my car gave a transfer case error before things started getting really bad the it was all speed sensor issues and 'air gap' things.

Can I just double check. You've already confirmed you got star rated tyres front and back right? And are your alloys the staggered ones or same front and back. Just want to be certain.

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Yes, all four tires are star rated, and all are having identical circumference , and same thread depth. Took pictures the other day, Dong have right now.
Alloys are identical. All four of them.

Regarding the voltage, I might try having Autozone charge up the battery and run the diagnosis again before moving forward with battery replacement.


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  #960  
Old 08-16-2017, 09:47 AM
swampX3 swampX3 is offline
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very good electrical system/battery link

do the basics first ....check the battery terminals for tight

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  #961  
Old 08-16-2017, 09:49 AM
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Transfer Case Actuator potential free fix!

Quote:
Originally Posted by swampX3 View Post
>you volts reading look OK for an older X machine that's maybe had one battery swap during it's life cycle so far



>I think you will have self powered wheel speed sensors ....just put the last seven of your VIN into realoem.com and check the part and then look at your wiring in ISTA



>let us know how the ground checks come out



>here's another homework project to check on the alternator





Assuming an original battery would clearly say BMW on it, mine has been changed at some point in the past.
I remember I took a picture of it several months ago and it was something different (can't recall it now).





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  #962  
Old 08-16-2017, 10:11 AM
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I should mention this also that a few days ago while trying to connect the ista and read the car, (ignition ON and engine off for 15 minutes ), the battery drained and had to use jump starter to start the engine. This happened twice. I got a bunch of under voltage codes then.

Can the low voltage readings be a result of the battery drained recently?


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  #963  
Old 08-16-2017, 10:17 AM
bubbaspaarx bubbaspaarx is offline
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Most likely.
The E70 appears to be a heavy battery user (bout 20 mins normally leads to needing a boost) and 15 mins seems really short.


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  #964  
Old 08-16-2017, 10:29 AM
swampX3 swampX3 is offline
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turn off auto light etc when testing

>very important to turn off the auto lights when testing stuff/using scanners etc ....many folks forget this , especially during daylight when they're hard to see being on....they will drain you fast

>close the doors too...another drain on the battery

>some good views of the wheel speed connectors in this link.....also the tip about not using cheap sensor replacements

>if the connectors disintigrate when you pop them apart you can simply hard wire the connection and insulate it very well ...many of the old connector fall apart

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  #965  
Old 08-16-2017, 10:32 AM
swampX3 swampX3 is offline
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a good explanation of both types of wheel speed sensor

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  #966  
Old 08-16-2017, 10:39 AM
swampX3 swampX3 is offline
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in bearing reluctor ...like yours we think

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  #967  
Old 08-16-2017, 10:48 AM
swampX3 swampX3 is offline
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in bearing SKF sensor tests

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  #968  
Old 08-16-2017, 10:53 AM
swampX3 swampX3 is offline
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three wire wheel speed sensor test links

https://www.youtube.com/results?sear...ire+abs+sensor
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  #969  
Old 08-16-2017, 12:25 PM
swampX3 swampX3 is offline
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transfer case internal/mechanical codes

>did any of the transfer case internal/mechanical codes re appear after you cleared the original codes ?????
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  #970  
Old 08-16-2017, 01:27 PM
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AlphaBetaX5 AlphaBetaX5 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by swampX3 View Post
>did any of the transfer case internal/mechanical codes re appear after you cleared the original codes ?????


Not yet. I scan it specifically for the VTG codes everyday.

That is the odd part.
However i reset and re calibrated it. That might be a reason I'm assuming.




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  #971  
Old 08-16-2017, 03:13 PM
swampX3 swampX3 is offline
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good progress

>good that the codes haven't come back ....keep trying on the solution/training ....best wishes
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  #972  
Old 08-16-2017, 05:07 PM
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AlphaBetaX5 AlphaBetaX5 is offline
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Just got home and checked the car's battery. Been replaced previously.
The current one is Bosch part# S5533B



Seems like it has 3 year free replacement warranty. Will find out soon if I can replace it for free.




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  #973  
Old 08-16-2017, 06:07 PM
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AlphaBetaX5 AlphaBetaX5 is offline
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Battery P# S5533B Not compatible with X5 3.0

This car never ceases to amaze me!
The current battery is a Bosch part# S5533B, which according to Bosch website is NOT compatible with 2009 X5 3.0.

Not sure if it is coded or registered properly then. Obviously the previous owner has not had any knowledge about the type of battery being installed, which leads me to believe that the battery might not be coded and registered!

Getting ready to try coding/registering the battery. Wouldn't harm if it was already coded/registered.
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  #974  
Old 08-16-2017, 06:11 PM
swampX3 swampX3 is offline
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can register battery as an exercise too

>there are many batteries off the official lists that will do the job.....some key things they gotta have are: correct dimensions....vent if required.....amp hour rating

>get some fun practice in with your ISTA on registering !
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  #975  
Old 08-16-2017, 09:26 PM
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How to pinpoint a battery issue with ISTA-D

Hi festers,
Apparently I have a battery issue:
See with CC ON for descriptions:



Simply:
Engine ON Car stopped or driving at 20MPH: Voltage is 13.5-13.8 V
Engine ON, Car Stopped, using some electronics like Lights: Voltage drops and comes back quickly to 13.5-13.8 V

Engine Off: Voltage; 11.2 - 12.0 V

Takes about 10 seconds when turned on the car for the voltage to go up to 13.8 V


Results:
Alternator/power generator is generating power properly!
Wiring are wired correctly! no closed/short circuit to ground!
Battery receives the cgarge from alternator in less than 10 seconds, therefor battery is OK.

However, battery voltage is low! Even with alternator charging, the voltage is still below 14.0 V.

That indicates a weak battery.


I have already ordered an multi-meter, once received, I will take the readings again for the fact. once it is certain battery is bad, will start working on that.

Hopefully this is the issue with the VTG / servomotor / actuator motor.
Once battery issue is resolved, I will check the voltage on the servomotor connection. It might not be the issue at all, but regardless, a faulty battery must go!
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