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X1 E84 (2011 - 2015)
First generation BMW X1 availbe as a X1 28i with either sDrive (RWD) or xDrive (AWD) or the US exclusive I6 N55 powered X1 35i xDrive.

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  #1  
Old 06-02-2016, 09:51 AM
shah123 shah123 is offline
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2014 BMW X1 Not Starting

I just bought a 2014 BMW X1 xdrive28i. The vehicle is damaged from the front. I was told that it runs and drives. It came to me on one of those gigantic car transportation truck with huge trailer with mutliple cars loaded. It was on the top rack. The driver went up there with the jumper, and jumped start it, drove it down to the street and then drove it into my driveway.

After that I tried to start it and it wouldn't start. I used my jumper and I used my other cars but nothing helped. The electronics comes up. It cycles through some icons including the washer fluid and headlights, probably because they are damaged. And when I press Start, I just hear a click sound and the display goes blank for a fraction of a second then comes back on but the car doesn't start.

The damage is mainly on the bumper and lower bumper. The radiator is cracked and does not have much water it seems. I tried by filling the reservoir up, but I never tried to fill the radiator itself. It is with the mechanic and I have ordered parts online (boy are they expensive).

But I am really surprised that why it just worked fine with the driver but it is not turning on now. The mechanic tried to charge the battery but it seems it is not holding the charge. But with external battery sources, it shouldn't matter?

Any ideas/suggestions would be appreciated.

Thanks.
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  #2  
Old 06-02-2016, 02:31 PM
Prematureapex Prematureapex is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shah123 View Post
I just bought a 2014 BMW X1 xdrive28i. The vehicle is damaged from the front. I was told that it runs and drives. It came to me on one of those gigantic car transportation truck with huge trailer with mutliple cars loaded. It was on the top rack. The driver went up there with the jumper, and jumped start it, drove it down to the street and then drove it into my driveway.

After that I tried to start it and it wouldn't start. I used my jumper and I used my other cars but nothing helped. The electronics comes up. It cycles through some icons including the washer fluid and headlights, probably because they are damaged. And when I press Start, I just hear a click sound and the display goes blank for a fraction of a second then comes back on but the car doesn't start.

Thanks.
It's still a battery issue. These cars are such a PITA to jump. Normally, hooking cables up to a running car is not enough to get it jumped. You need to leave it hooked up to the running car for a good bit of time (like 15-20 minutes), preferably with the other cars revs up. Not kidding.

Alternatively (pun!), you can just run to Walmart and buy a cheap new battery.
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  #3  
Old 06-03-2016, 12:00 AM
vstolpner vstolpner is offline
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Well you can't buy a cheap new battery because it has to be an AGM style battery (regular batteries will die very quickly and cannot handle the stress put on them by the auto start and stop). Also once you get it started you'll have to pair the battery to the car (read about it).

It does sound like a battery issue but just wanted to point out it's not as simple as swapping it out
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Old 06-03-2016, 03:08 AM
ingenieur ingenieur is offline
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Check the engine grounds and basic power supply which comes up front from the battery to the starter and B+ jump point.
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  #5  
Old 06-03-2016, 04:53 AM
Prematureapex Prematureapex is offline
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Originally Posted by vstolpner View Post
Well you can't buy a cheap new battery because it has to be an AGM style battery (regular batteries will die very quickly and cannot handle the stress put on them by the auto start and stop). Also once you get it started you'll have to pair the battery to the car (read about it).

It does sound like a battery issue but just wanted to point out it's not as simple as swapping it out
Forgot the 2.0s were stop/start and all AGM, so sure, the replacement is probably $50 more expensive. However, you can certainly remove an AGM, buy a new one at the autoparts store, and drop it in.

Technically, you don't have to pair or code for a new battery, given you buy one with the same general specs, but it is recommended at least to the extent it resets the charging parameters (in which case all you need is INPA up and running on a laptop), moreso if your replacement battery has a different CA and Reserve Minute ratings (in which you'll actually have to make a quick change via NCSExpert), or if you've changed from flooded to AGM you certainly need to let the car know. But countless people never code them at all and go about their life, both with AGM and flooded battery like-for-like replacements.

In any case, it's relatively easy to do with the above-mentioned free software. And if you don't want to learn how to do it yourself, you can drop the battery in, and take it into a shop/dealer at some point in the near future to have it coded. No big deal using it for a few days prior to that.

Generally speaking, rumors that lead people to think they can't replace their battery like in any other normal car are largely over-exaggerated. Another scam by BMW to keep people pumping ridiculous amounts of money into their service departments.

Read about it.
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'08 135 (JB4, DCI, Bilstein HDs, H&R M3 FSB)
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Last edited by Prematureapex; 06-03-2016 at 05:08 AM.
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  #6  
Old 06-03-2016, 08:22 AM
vstolpner vstolpner is offline
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Didn't mean to say you couldn't do it at all, just would shorten the batteries lifespan and to do a bit of research on it first.
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  #7  
Old 06-03-2016, 04:02 PM
Prematureapex Prematureapex is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vstolpner View Post
Didn't mean to say you couldn't do it at all, just would shorten the batteries lifespan and to do a bit of research on it first.
I've personally replaced and coded for both wet and AGM batteries. I've also replaced without coding, as have countless others. The uncoded battery is still in the family, 7 years later...

Again, he can certainly go to the autoparts store, buy a (relatively) cheap AGM replacement, and drop it in, seeing if that cures his issue. After that, he can decide for himself whether or not he wants to have the car coded for it. Which again, is regularly questioned for its necessity.

I mean, repeating what you read on the internet is fine...but it's not always that accurate.
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'02 M3 (500/500 GC/Koni)
'08 135 (JB4, DCI, Bilstein HDs, H&R M3 FSB)
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Last edited by Prematureapex; 06-03-2016 at 04:16 PM.
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  #8  
Old 03-16-2020, 10:06 AM
asudhak asudhak is offline
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Old thread, but was it the battery? I am having the same issues.
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  #9  
Old 03-24-2020, 05:40 PM
richsantana174 richsantana174 is offline
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Almost always is the battery...
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