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JL XD600/6 Amp Installed!

91K views 123 replies 47 participants last post by  zonerc 
#1 ·
Just finished the install of my new JL XD600/6 Amp with Technic's harness.
As I had a few requests about posting pics I thought I'd oblige.

Install took about 2 hours, but was taking my time, enjoying the process.
As complete noob, I'd rate the difficulty as mild to moderate. Thanks to Technic and previous posts on this forum in making the whole process easier.

I ordered Technic's harness for my F30 Hi-Fi (non HK) and wired it up to the amp first. I disconnected the 50 amp fuse.
The harness makes this plug and play process so much easier. For me it was worth the $.
Electronics Wire Technology Electronic device Electrical wiring


Here I removed some of the trim in the trunk.
Vehicle Trunk Car Auto part Compact car


To remove the rest of the trim required unscrewing the metal tie down anchors with a star shaped screwdriver bit.
Wire Technology Cable Auto part Electronic device


Here is the trunk with all of the trim removed.
Land vehicle Vehicle Car Trunk Auto part


Close up shot of the exposed OEM amp and wiring.
Vehicle Car Trunk Engine Auto part


Close up shot of the exposed battery and distribution block.
Vehicle Engine Auto part Car


I removed the amp by removed 1 screw and then sliding the amp and it's holder out. The existing harness is removed by moving a small plastic latch. The amp seemed quite light and unsubstantial compared to the JL xd600/6.
Here it is disconnected.
Auto part Automotive exterior


I used industrial strength velcro between the amp and the exiting amp compartment.


Here it is velcro-ed down but not connected yet.
Electronics Technology Auto part Vehicle Engine


Then I attached the brown ground cable to a metal bolt above the existing amp compartment. There was already another harness being grounded here.
Wire Electronics Technology Cable Electronic device


I then (very carefully) unscrewed the nut under the red flap containing the positive bolt on the battery. Once the nut is loosened you can actually pull the entire metal connector off the battery. I removed the nut and bolt completely and put the ring from the amp power cord inbetween the clasps that squeeze together when the bolt is tightened. (you'll get a better idea when you are actually doing this step). I had to do it this way rather than outside of the clasp touching the nut directly because the ring was too wide and could not make the nut sit flush against it.
Then it all tightened back up again.
Auto part Wire Engine Vehicle


Here is a clearer shot of the entire battery and distribution block.
Electrical wiring Auto part Wire Vehicle Technology


I decided to run the power cabling along the back of the trunk. I used plastic ties to keep some of the cabling in place.
Vehicle Car Boat City car Trunk


Then the fuse was reattached and the trim pieces put back in place. All done!
Land vehicle Vehicle Car Trunk Luxury vehicle


Sound Quality:

I tried researching other users' settings for the amp but couldn't find a lot relevant to F30s.
So I tried a variety of combinations.

Speaker gains at 10% and subs at 40%. High filter at 200. Low filter at 200

Then a variety of different filter settings. HF at 150. LF at 150.

I only fiddled for about 20 minutes, though it appears this process could take a while longer. I left it at the following before I came inside:
Speaker gains at 20%. Sub gains at 50%. HF at 120. LF at 110.

So overall the sound is better. The bass is definitely "punchier" and more distinctive. I didn't hear many ups and downs in bass signal the way I used to. It was more consistent.
I would say the highs were slightly muddier though.
The sound is definitely different than with the OEM amp.
Certain albums sounded better. Eagles Hell Freezes Over and John Mayer' Room For Squares sounded truer to my home sound system.
ACDC's Back in Black and Shoot to Thrill sounded "flatter". As did Metallica's Master of Puppets.
However the bass line on Take Six's Sing A Song made me smile. Super tight and plucky.

I think I need to fiddle much more with the settings on the amp, as I noticed that even small changes in Freq and gain produced large variations in sound.

Also wanted to note that the only music tested so far was the music imported on the the hard drive from CDs. I haven't checked any of the songs on my USB key which I downloaded online.

Does anyone have any suggestions for amp settings?

Thanks and special thanks to Technic for his help.
 
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#2 ·
Thanks for the DIY thread... :thumbup:

This is the suggested XD600/6 setup that I use as the baseline:

With the XD600/6 settings at min gain for front and rear channels, 9 o'clock gain for underseat woofers (7 o'clock is minimum), HP at 135Hz for front and rear speakers (that is 27 clicks on the frequency knobs) and LP at 174Hz for underseat woofers (30 clicks).
If you feel too much midrange coming from the doors then try 32 clicks for all 6 channels -that will be 200Hz HP front and rear, 200Hz LP for the underseat woofers.

Use 320kbps MP3/256kbps AAC songs in a USB for testing. HDD songs ripped from CD are WAV at 128kbps.
 
#116 ·
Thanks for the DIY thread... :thumbup:

This is the suggested XD600/6 setup that I use as the baseline:

If you feel too much midrange coming from the doors then try 32 clicks for all 6 channels -that will be 200Hz HP front and rear, 200Hz LP for the underseat woofers.

Use 320kbps MP3/256kbps AAC songs in a USB for testing. HDD songs ripped from CD are WAV at 128kbps.
Im trying to get in touch with tecnik to buy one of these wire harness. Do u have an email or phone number please
Brett07@aol.com
 
#5 ·
Great DIY, nice custom install and clean set up! I bet the sound quality improves dramatically; let us know how it goes.
 
#6 ·
So spent a bit more time fiddling.
As per Technic's advice, I used 320kbps songs from my USB stick and not the HDD ones.
Also tried a wider variety of music (Rock, pop, RnB, Metal).

Overall I am happy with the improved sound.
The actual improvement is obviously hard to quantify.
I'm a music lover, not an audiophile. But I definitely know what sounds good to me.
I like my music loud, but not stupid loud. I do turn it down when driving in my neighborhood or when pulling up beside other cars at a light.
So that being said, I would have rated by pre-upgrade HiFi system as 6/10. I would rate the system now at 8/10. A 10/10 would be my medium quality home system which is inherently going to sound better.

Best improvement is in the bass (which was my primary complaint with my system previously). So much less muddy now. Kick drums and bass guitar is now well defined. Overall sound is generally cleaner. Less clipping at higher volumes too (which is good when my windows are down on the highway).
I find that it really depends on the specific song/artist, and likely where it was ripped from.
Songs that sounded amazing were from Jason Mraz (new album), Rihanna, Black Eyed Peas (Boom Boom Pow - handled the bass amazingly), Back in Black, Vertical Horizon, Collective Soul, Flo Rida.
Songs that were poorer were from Audioslave, Alicia Keyz (No One), Van Halen (sounded flat - but I do find their mastering is kind of flat).

So 8/10 is very very good for a car stereo system IMO.
At some point I will entertain the thought of either SWS-8s to replace the underseat woofers and/or an upgrade of the 2 tweeters in the front. I get a bit of ADHD when it comes to upgrading things so this may be sooner rather than later! :)

I did fiddle back and forth with the settings quite a bit and found the following best suited my ears:
Technology Electronic device Electronics Auto part Trip computer

Electronics Technology Electronic instrument Audio equipment Electronic device

Very close to what you suggested Technic!
However I'd absolutely welcome anyone else's suggestions for settings as I know I'm not quite finished yet.

Anyways bottom line is it's inexpensive, easy to DIY, reversible with no wires to cut (good as I'm leasing), car still looks OEM, and only issue was that I had to reset the date/time.
I'd suggest this to anyone.

So back out to go for another drive! :bigpimp:
 
#10 · (Edited)
So that being said, I would have rated by pre-upgrade HiFi system as 6/10. I would rate the system now at 8/10. A 10/10 would be my medium quality home system which is inherently going to sound better.

So 8/10 is very very good for a car stereo system IMO.
Hi! I'm looking at getting the same amp and was wondering how much of an improvement adding a set of 4" Morel speakers to the front &/or rear would make. Would adding a Cleansweep improve the combo even more or would the Cleansweep be redundant, as the XD600 has numerous user-definable settings?

I'm not looking to spend thousands on an upgrade, but I am fussy about sound (all tubed equipment at home.....)

Thanks, from a newbie!

R
 
#7 ·
So excited!
I get my Technic Harness in the mail tomorrow!
Csphysio Thanks for taking the time develop this guide.
I'm just a little unsure about a few things.

1. In your photos there were only two Sets or RCA's going to in the the Amp. One set for Ch1,Ch2, and the other for Ch3, and Ch4. What about 5 and 6? Also what is the remote for?

2. I saw where our "Filter Freq". were set, but it's kind of hard to see where the "Filter Mode" switches are for each channel.
Is ch 1&2 HP Front, 3&4 Rear HP and 5&6 Underseat Woofers LP?

3. I sure the "Input Mode" should be set at 6ch is that right?
and "Remote Level Mode" stet for all?

Thanks in Advance for your help.
 
#8 ·
So excited!
I get my Technic Harness in the mail tomorrow!
Csphysio Thanks for taking the time develop this guide.
I'm just a little unsure about a few things.

1. In your photos there were only two Sets or RCA's going to in the the Amp. One set for Ch1,Ch2, and the other for Ch3, and Ch4. What about 5 and 6? Also what is the remote for?
The XD600/6 has an input switch that must be set to 4ch so the OEM 4ch outputs (via the harness) can be converted internally by the XD amp into 6ch outputs.

The OEM remote turn on (via the harness) turns the XD600/6 on/off exactly as the OEM amp replaced.

2. I saw where our "Filter Freq". were set, but it's kind of hard to see where the "Filter Mode" switches are for each channel.
Is ch 1&2 HP Front, 3&4 Rear HP and 5&6 Underseat Woofers LP?
http://mediacdn.jlaudio.com/media/mfg/9013/media_document/live_1/XD600_6_MAN.pdf?1342151692

3. I sure the "Input Mode" should be set at 6ch is that right?
and "Remote Level Mode" stet for all?

Thanks in Advance for your help.
See answers 1 and 2. :thumbup:
 
#12 ·
this is an amazingly detail DIY, thank you!!

So, I'm assuming you didn't do the speakers because of the limited depth to mounting new ones, or are the OEM speakers that much more improved than previous generations?

I'm glad to hear an amp install takes care of some of the issues I have with the base system...the $500 is much cheaper than the HK system for sure!
 
#13 ·
Thanks. Just trying to give a little back to a great forum.

Firstly, in retrospect I may have chosen the HK system. I'm not sure because I haven't heard it. When I wanted my F30, this car was the closest they had to what I wanted. It had everything but the HK system. I listed to a few tracks and it seemed very good at the time.
After driving it around for a month I decided I did want to upgrade after all.

I chose to change the amp first because of good feedback from this forum (esp from Technic's posts).

So overall it sounds better, but because I know myself, I can foresee changing some of the speakers out at some point. There are speakers that you can swap with the tweets and the subs that I believe Technic has created harnesses and mounting adapters for. These would not get in the way of the window mechanism.
Try a search on the forum or perhaps Technic can comment.

Good luck!
 
#15 ·
Got my Technic Harness yesterday and did my install.
Because of you guys I was able to do it about 45 mins.
In fact it was harder to put the trunk lining back than it was to hookup the amp.
I'm still not 100% done with the lining but man oh ****ing man! Do I love my new sound!
Thank you guys soooo much!
 
#17 ·
Thanks for the detailed post!

As far as amp settings, I'm not familiar with that amp, but you could probably take it to a good local stereo installer near you and ask them to tune it with a sound meter.

You could also ask around on some of the car stereo forums and see what they have to say.

Sometimes if you play with high/low pass filters and settings like that, it makes a pretty big difference too. It fine tunes the amp to the speaker frequencies. You just need to find the "Sweet Spot" in your speakers. That's when you'll get the Big smile on your face.

Good Luck! :beerchug:
 
#19 ·
Where does the OEM setup keep its crossovers? If the head unit handles that, or the crossovers are located by the speakers, I would have assumed its best to disabled the new amp's frequency filters, otherwise you have competing filters which would tend to degrade sound quality, right...? Only if the removed OEM amp handled crossover duties would you need to utilize the new amp's crossovers, right?
 
#20 ·
The OEM amp has built-in crossovers, one per channel (7). Remove the OEM amp and the crossovers are gone with it.

The iDrive unit outputs 4 analog channels in the HiFi system: balanced, flat, low level, 5V signals.

There are no analog outputs in the HK system.
 
#27 ·
Just installed the JL XD600/A last night with the help of this forum. Thanks everyone! Used Technic's harness... thanks Technic! Also installed the SWS underseat subs.

Everything sounds like I'm looking for today, but am going to wait a few days and play some more tunes before I decide on replacing the front stage. Technic recommended in a PM the JL Audio C5 for the fronts as well as the others in this thread.
 
#31 · (Edited)
As a 20+ year veteran of the car audio/consumer electronics industry and audio engineer, I figured I'd quickly chime in on adjusting amp settings for this setup.


First, set all iDrive tone and balance controls to flat.

Load the loudest QUALITY recording you can find, and put that song on repeat. Professionals use tones, but lets stay with using music.

Turn your amplifier gains all the way down. Some amps will require you to have the gain up a touch to get any output, but we want the gains down as low as possible without zero output.

As mentioned, the door midrange speakers probably aren't going to do much below 200Hz, to lets start with setting the HP filter for the front and rear speakers to 250-350HZ.

For now keep the underseat woofers off.

Turn up the volume on the iDrive up until either you max out, or the audio distorts. Do not keep playing the system loudly with audible distortion present! Back down the volume on the iDrive a click or two below audible distortion and leave it there.

Now while the system is playing at this volume setting, see if you can add amplifier gain. Turn up the gain on 1 pair of speakers until they distort very slightly, and back down the amp gain a click or two below that level. we should now be just below any audible distortion, with a clean (but thin) sound.

Next, put in a bass heavy track, but one with punch. A generic suggestion is "Dip It Low" by Christina Milian. This song has good punch from a drum machine, with a strong synth bass that sets a good benchmark IMO.

While playing the system, turn the HP filter setting lower for the front doors. You want to get these speakers playing as low of a frequency as possible without distortion. You will probably find that the 200Hz suggestion is pretty close to where you are gonna end up.

You want to do this process separately for the front and rear speakers. The idea is that you want to be able to hear what the front speakers are doing without the rear speakers or under seat woofers interfering.

Now set the woofer's LP setting on the amp someplace ABOVE the HP setting on the front/rear channels. So if your F/R HP filters are set at 200Hz, I want to start with the woofers at 250Hz LP.

Raise the gain on the woofers until they fill in the bottom end and roughly mate up with the F/R speakers' volume.

Now what you want to do is pay attention to how well we can get the woofers and the F/R speakers to become one (sonically). You might want to lower the woofers LP setting to tighten the punch and/or thin out the lower midrange, but we are seeking a smooth transition. Don't be afraid of overlap or underlapping the HP and LP settings.

This last adjustment will take some time getting as good as possible. I usually will also try running the (sub)woofers with their polarity reversed (in relation to the rest of the speakers) to see if they blend together better. I estimate the transition is smoother with the woofers 180º out of phase close to 50% of the time. Take your time experimenting to get the transition between the woofers and mid/highs as smooth as possible.

Hope this helps.
 
#33 ·
As a 20+ year veteran of the car audio/consumer electronics industry and audio engineer, I figured I'd quickly chime in on adjusting amp settings for this setup.

First, set all iDrive tone and balance controls to flat.

Load the loudest QUALITY recording you can find, and put that song on repeat. Professionals use tones, but lets stay with using music.

Turn your amplifier gains all the way down. Some amps will require you to have the gain up a touch to get any output, but we want the gains down as low as possible without zero output.

As mentioned, the door midrange speakers probably aren't going to do much below 200Hz, to lets start with setting the HP filter for the front and rear speakers to 250-350HZ.

For now keep the underseat woofers off.

Turn up the volume on the iDrive up until either you max out, or the audio distorts. Do not keep playing the system loudly with audible distortion present! Back down the volume on the iDrive a click or two below audible distortion and leave it there.

Now while the system is playing at this volume setting, see if you can add amplifier gain. Turn up the gain on 1 pair of speakers until they distort very slightly, and back down the amp gain a click or two below that level. we should now be just below any audible distortion, with a clean (but thin) sound.

Next, put in a bass heavy track, but one with punch. A generic suggestion is "Dip It Low" by Christina Milian. This song has good punch from a drum machine, with a strong synth bass that sets a good benchmark IMO.

While playing the system, turn the HP filter setting lower for the front doors. You want to get these speakers playing as low of a frequency as possible without distortion. You will probably find that the 200Hz suggestion is pretty close to where you are gonna end up.

You want to do this process separately for the front and rear speakers. The idea is that you want to be able to hear what the front speakers are doing without the rear speakers or under seat woofers interfering.

Now set the woofer's LP setting on the amp someplace ABOVE the HP setting on the front/rear channels. So if your F/R HP filters are set at 200Hz, I want to start with the woofers at 250Hz LP.

Raise the gain on the woofers until they fill in the bottom end and roughly mate up with the F/R speakers' volume.

Now what you want to do is pay attention to how well we can get the woofers and the F/R speakers to become one (sonically). You might want to lower the woofers LP setting to tighten the punch and/or thin out the lower midrange, but we are seeking a smooth transition. Don't be afraid of overlap or underlapping the HP and LP settings.

This last adjustment will take some time getting as good as possible. I usually will also try running the (sub)woofers with their polarity reversed (in relation to the rest of the speakers) to see if they blend together better. I estimate the transition is smoother with the woofers 180º out of phase close to 50% of the time. Take your time experimenting to get the transition between the woofers and mid/highs as smooth as possible.

Hope this helps.
Thanks so much for the detailed tutorial. I found this very useful as I am still constantly fiddling with my settings. I find that this does take a while. Wish that I could clone myself and sit in the driver's seat and in the trunk at the same time!
 
#39 ·
Great DIY thread. Thanks for sharing. I just got my 2014 F30 with HiFi. I'm thinking to do something very similar except rather than using the under seat subs as true sub woofers, I was hoping to band-pass them and only send mid-bass (i.e. 80hz to 200hz). Then send 200hz and up to the doors and send 80hz and down to a sub box in the trunk. Also thinking an XD700/5 is better suited for this as it has a mono channel I can use for the sub woofer in the trunk. I know I'd be sacrificing the rear door speakers but I'm fine with that. Two questions... How do you think the factory under seat woofers would perform as just mid bass drivers, 2 will this harness still work for my application?

Thanks!
 
#44 ·
Not satisfied....so added a sub

I'm the original thread poster and wanted to give an update many months later.

So, I lived with my swap out of the factory amp to a JL XD600/6 for a couple of months.
Indeed there was an appreciable improvement in sound quality. It was nice to be able to set cross-over levels to the speakers and give them more oomph.
However my initial euphoria began to wane, and I found continually myself craving more bass. Kept thinking of the SNL with Christopher Walken "I need more cowbell!". I definitely needed more bass.
There more I drove, the more I got bothered by it.

So I got on Amazon and bought a Pioneer TS-SWX251 compact sealed enclosure 10 inch sub. My car doesn't usually have more than 2 people in it, so I placed it in the footwell of the rear passenger seat (which it fit perfectly in!).
It's down-firing and the top is flat and black, so you don't really notice it's there.

I simply unplugged the outputs to the 2 factory subs and ran a line from one of the now empty outputs, under the seat (easy to take apart) and to the new sub. I do realize that I'm only getting one channel to the sub (in my case I lost the left side), but I was willing to sacrifice this for my own specific situation. Then re-adjusted the cross-overs and levels a bit.

Result.....
Oh my freakin' god. I was blown away by the difference.
The sound went from a 6/10 to a 9/10 instantly.
Wish I took a picture of the grin I had playing my first track (ACDC - Back In Black).
I think I played the first 20 seconds of at least 300 different songs in my driveway for hours!

I have to be honest, I did not really notice the loss of the sub signal to the left side. I guess a lot of the music I listen to keeps the low signals more evenly spread through both left and right channels.

The new amp settings really allowed me to push more of the lows to the much more capable woofer, so not only did I get much richer, deeper, wider and punchy bass,....but my mids and highs were more focused and cleaner.

I read many online reviews of the slim Pioneer woofer so I felt confident of its capabilites. And true to it's reputation, it did not disappoint.
I think the fact that I kept the subwoofer inside the cabin of the car, rather than in the trunk really made a difference in the punchiness of the bass. I tried swapping the position to inside the trunk a few weeks later, and I did notice a loss in volume and punch. It was significant.
Another observation was that when it was in the trunk and I stood outside the car, you could hear the bass reverberating quite loudly. When the sub was in the cabin, you could hardly hear any bass outside the car at all. Which was perfect for me as I don't like being "that" guy. I don't feel the need to impress everyone within a square mile of my car with my ridiculously loud window shattering bass. I listen to music for me, and that' it. However, to each their own I suppose.

I'd still like to give props to Technic for his initial advice as it was great, and likely suitable for many people out there. It also provided the primary method of adjustment to my factory system. It's just that personally for me, I found this extra step, suitable for my ears, but again not for everyone.
And I believe Amazon has it on sale for $76 right. Super cheap for the level of upgrade you get!

So, it's been about 3 months with this new sub, and I still eagerly look forward to getting in the car to crank up my favorite tunes. I especially skip ahead to the songs with lotsa bass!

Hope this helps someone out there as well.
 
#45 ·
There is a reason that I have a 12" sub in my E92. :bigpimp:

Once you experience the real deep bass of a sub then there is no underseat woofer substitute for it. However, most people use their trunk to put their luggage in it. And the idea of having a big box permanently occupying space there just for boom-boom is not a popular one.

I'm the original thread poster and wanted to give an update many months later.

So, I lived with my swap out of the factory amp to a JL XD600/6 for a couple of months.
Indeed there was an appreciable improvement in sound quality. It was nice to be able to set cross-over levels to the speakers and give them more oomph.
However my initial euphoria began to wane, and I found continually myself craving more bass. Kept thinking of the SNL with Christopher Walken "I need more cowbell!". I definitely needed more bass.
There more I drove, the more I got bothered by it.

So I got on Amazon and bought a Pioneer TS-SWX251 compact sealed enclosure 10 inch sub. My car doesn't usually have more than 2 people in it, so I placed it in the footwell of the rear passenger seat (which it fit perfectly in!).
It's down-firing and the top is flat and black, so you don't really notice it's there.

I simply unplugged the outputs to the 2 factory subs and ran a line from one of the now empty outputs, under the seat (easy to take apart) and to the new sub. I do realize that I'm only getting one channel to the sub (in my case I lost the left side), but I was willing to sacrifice this for my own specific situation. Then re-adjusted the cross-overs and levels a bit.

Result.....
Oh my freakin' god. I was blown away by the difference.
The sound went from a 6/10 to a 9/10 instantly.
Wish I took a picture of the grin I had playing my first track (ACDC - Back In Black).
I think I played the first 20 seconds of at least 300 different songs in my driveway for hours!

I have to be honest, I did not really notice the loss of the sub signal to the left side. I guess a lot of the music I listen to keeps the low signals more evenly spread through both left and right channels.

The new amp settings really allowed me to push more of the lows to the much more capable woofer, so not only did I get much richer, deeper, wider and punchy bass,....but my mids and highs were more focused and cleaner.

I read many online reviews of the slim Pioneer woofer so I felt confident of its capabilites. And true to it's reputation, it did not disappoint.
I think the fact that I kept the subwoofer inside the cabin of the car, rather than in the trunk really made a difference in the punchiness of the bass. I tried swapping the position to inside the trunk a few weeks later, and I did notice a loss in volume and punch. It was significant.
Another observation was that when it was in the trunk and I stood outside the car, you could hear the bass reverberating quite loudly. When the sub was in the cabin, you could hardly hear any bass outside the car at all. Which was perfect for me as I don't like being "that" guy. I don't feel the need to impress everyone within a square mile of my car with my ridiculously loud window shattering bass. I listen to music for me, and that' it. However, to each their own I suppose.

I'd still like to give props to Technic for his initial advice as it was great, and likely suitable for many people out there. It also provided the primary method of adjustment to my factory system. It's just that personally for me, I found this extra step, suitable for my ears, but again not for everyone.
And I believe Amazon has it on sale for $76 right. Super cheap for the level of upgrade you get!

So, it's been about 3 months with this new sub, and I still eagerly look forward to getting in the car to crank up my favorite tunes. I especially skip ahead to the songs with lotsa bass!

Hope this helps someone out there as well.
 
#52 ·
Hey Everyone,

Technic sent me a link to this page and I'm ordering one of his harness' to start my audio upgrade in my 135i! Thought that you guys might be interested in the new drop in replacements that Rockford Fosgate is releasing the first part of April. I plan on ordering a pair, the cost isn't that bad (<600) for a full set.

http://www.rockfordfosgate.com/products/details/t3-bmw1

I'm still debating on whether to pick up the XD600 or go with a Rockford Fosgate. For subs I'm going to run a Fosgate P1000X1BD to push 2 P3 12's.

Debated picking up a 3sixty.3 but I think I'm going to wait and see how it sounds without it.

My interior is the coral red so I was going to have the box covered to match the doors. So when I drop the back seats it will be seamless. :)

Hopefully will have everything completed this time next month and then I'll post some pictures!

Thanks!!

 
#56 ·
Great review!, I don't mind spending $500 for a better sound system. BTW, would this effect our warranty of any sort?
Not with the whole car. If something went wrong with your motor or transmission they can't deny your warranty because you put new speakers/amp in. If something went wrong with iDrive, then maybe they could because that is tide to the stereo etc.
 
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