e39 528i m52 overheating no more! - Bimmerfest - BMW Forums



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E39 (1997 - 2003)
The BMW 5-Series (E39 chassis) was introduced in the United States as a 1997 model year car and lasted until the 2004 when the E60 chassis was released. The United States saw several variations including the 525i, 528i, 530i and 540i. -- View the E39 Wiki

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  #1  
Old 05-22-2019, 06:49 PM
Wolorliam Wolorliam is offline
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e39 528i m52 overheating no more!

I drilled a hole in my expansion tank and now the car doesnt overheat!

I read every thread available and nothing compared to what was happening to me. The car would take about half an hour and then suddenly overheat. The needle would sit like glue on the halfway mark and then start climbing and then 20 secs later at the redline.

Observations:
*No coolant loss
*No cap venting
*expansion tank FULL of coolant
*Air in top hose
*once cooled down, pipes would be at near normal atomospheric pressure
*heater valves seized (removed)
*Auxillary water pump works
*water pump okay
*radiator okay
*coolant would equalise back down to Kalp line after cap off then bleeder opened.
*Coolant in expansion tank always stone cold.
*Thin venting hose cold (not blocked or squashed)
*Tried coolant and just water, same outcome
*Tried every bleeding method available.
*Pressure tested

Conclusion:

Not enough pressure differential between venting hose and bottom hose of expansion tank. X amount of pressure is required to push any air in to and then down and then up into the expansion tank, causing air to congregate in the top hose and water pump. Water pump would be doing a "burnout" in the water

Solution or possibly a masking of the problem:

I drilled a hole through the inside of the bleeder hose horizontally into the expansion tank. I figured this would allow any air in the system to be bled straight into the expansion tank without having to push down 200mm of water first.

I was getting about half an hour driving before overheating, now i'm up to my eighth half hour drive!
Now, when I take the cap off the coolant level is right on the kalp line and no air in the top hose.

There is probably an underlying problem, and i'd like to solve that band then revert back to the original expansion tank setup!

Thanks

-Liam

*EDIT*

I also changed the location of the vent hose. I tapped into the first bleeder screw and capped off the hose from the top RHS of the radiator

Last edited by Wolorliam; 05-24-2019 at 01:10 AM.
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  #2  
Old 05-22-2019, 07:00 PM
blakpantha007 blakpantha007 is offline
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Mein Auto: 2002 BMW 525i
Interesting......but great idea though....thanks for sharing....
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  #3  
Old 05-22-2019, 08:27 PM
effduration effduration is offline
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Mein Auto: '99 528i, '03 530i '06 X5
what year 528i ? Mileage?
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  #4  
Old 05-23-2019, 04:16 AM
Chedley Chedley is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wolorliam View Post
...
Now, when I take the cap off the coolant level is right on the kalp line and no air in the top hose.
….
-Liam
I guess that is possibly the root cause of the problem : too much coolant in the system.

Assuming the system has been correctly bled out of air,...
With the engine morning cold, open the cap of the expansion tank; use a turkey blaster to remove excess coolant, until the tip of the red indicator reaches the neck of the expansion tank. Then close the cap. And drive.
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Last edited by Chedley; 05-23-2019 at 04:59 AM.
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  #5  
Old 05-23-2019, 03:50 PM
Wolorliam Wolorliam is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chedley View Post
I guess that is possibly the root cause of the problem : too much coolant in the system.

Assuming the system has been correctly bled out of air,...
With the engine morning cold, open the cap of the expansion tank; use a turkey blaster to remove excess coolant, until the tip of the red indicator reaches the neck of the expansion tank. Then close the cap. And drive.
thanks. I have bled all the air out of the system, numourous ways. Jacked up the front, hot, cold, used a garden hose, massaged all pipes. All air removed about 50 times. Then siphoned out of the expansion tank down to the line. Nothing worked, the air would travel back through the vent hose into the top hose leaving the expansion tank full of coolant.
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Old 05-23-2019, 03:52 PM
Wolorliam Wolorliam is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by effduration View Post
what year 528i ? Mileage?
1998.

Only one pipe out the bottom of expansion tank. I’m curious what the other pipe is for that I see on similar 528i’s
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Old 05-23-2019, 05:35 PM
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16valex 16valex is offline
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Mein Auto: 530I Blown/ X5 35D
I don't know man but something is not right with your coolant system
Mine has 249K miles never have issue with pressure.

M52 engine is a pain in the ass to get all the air out. One must removed both bleeder screws while filling the coolant with key on max heat.
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  #8  
Old 05-23-2019, 06:39 PM
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bmw blue bmw blue is offline
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Mein Auto: 2000 BMW 528i Steptronic
[QUOTE=Wolorliam;13008535

Observations:
*heater valves seized (removed)
*Auxillary water pump works
[/QUOTE]

Heater valves seized and removed. Were they seized closed..? If so, for how long..?

If the heater valves were seized closed for a long time it's possible the heater core is blocked
from a lack of coolant flowing through it, cruded up from lack of proper operation.

Without the heater valves how are you gonna set the heater control panel for correct bleeding procedure.

How did you bypass the heater control valves.

Auxiliary water pumps sometimes fail to pump but you can still hear them running but they actually are not pumping any coolant.
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Old 05-23-2019, 10:03 PM
Wolorliam Wolorliam is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bmw blue View Post
Heater valves seized and removed. Were they seized closed..? If so, for how long..?

If the heater valves were seized closed for a long time it's possible the heater core is blocked
from a lack of coolant flowing through it, cruded up from lack of proper operation.

Without the heater valves how are you gonna set the heater control panel for correct bleeding procedure.

How did you bypass the heater control valves.

Auxiliary water pumps sometimes fail to pump but you can still hear them running but they actually are not pumping any coolant.
I removed the heater tap solenoid “internals” and reinstalled “always open” valve/pump body. They were seized open.
Aux water pump works, “rest” mode works very well therefore there must be adequate flow.
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  #10  
Old 05-23-2019, 10:18 PM
Wolorliam Wolorliam is offline
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Here is where I drilled the hole into the tank. 15 drives in, and no overheating!

I am very interested to see a picture or diagram of the internal routings of this bleeder inlet inside the expansion tank.

Last edited by Wolorliam; 05-23-2019 at 10:21 PM.
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  #11  
Old 07-12-2019, 10:21 PM
Wolorliam Wolorliam is offline
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Overheating again

Damn, it did it again. I would like to get to the bottom of this. Drilling the hole really helped for some time. It allowed air to bleed in to the expansion tank where it belongs. Something tells me that the water pump is cavitating, maybe sucking air in somewhere?
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  #12  
Old 07-13-2019, 12:36 AM
528iAut 528iAut is online now
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Having these problems I would suggest you monitor the coolant temp via the cluster menu always. The gauge is buffered and you might be unlucky one day that you get fooled and its too late.
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  #13  
Old 07-13-2019, 02:38 AM
dmarkovina dmarkovina is offline
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Take an Infrared temp reader gun and read the temp yourself to make sure the temp sensor hasn't gone bad.
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