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  #1  
Old 01-07-2020, 04:05 AM
Dover Dover is offline
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BMW Tool 'Special Tool' rental in the UK?

Hi folks,

It's looking like a may have to replace my Bank 2 eccentric shaft shortly and I'm just going through the BMW TIS documents and creating my plan & parts list.

One of the areas that's concerning me slightly is the removal of the intake camshaft because it seems to rely on BMW special tool 119470 (https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...e-gear/5KYFNOw) which seems to be a kind of mounting stand to hold the bearing bracket whilst you're working on it.

Plus there is a 'shaped element' tool 119472 (https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...-gear/JhW80Tky) for re-aligning the intake camshaft.

Do any UK-based folk know where these tools can be rented? ...or, are these tools actually necessities? Can the job be done without them? Can the removal of the intake cam shaft be done without removing the entire bearing bracket assembly from the head?

Thanks in advance,

TD.
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  #2  
Old 01-07-2020, 08:29 AM
HerbP HerbP is offline
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The key thing about this job will be keeping anything from moving in place, such as the camshafts & timing chain. I would think you could possibly get the eccentric shaft out carefully, but I have not done this job. If you are going to attempt the job, you will need the timing jigs, since the timing is easy to get off by one tooth, & you get to do the job again. While you are this far in to the head, you might as well do the valve seals.

Why do you need to remove the Eccentric shaft?
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Old 01-07-2020, 11:51 PM
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Hsurf Hsurf is offline
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Without searching this is the only place I can think of currently http://www.phoenixmotorsport.co.uk/s...ol_rentals.php, I've not used them myself but have heard some good things about them.

As Herb says though, why the need to replace the shaft itself? I've heard of the need to replace various items around it on the N62, sensors, fingers even bearing shells on one but never the shaft itself, they're normally rock solid, what's happened?
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Old 01-08-2020, 01:00 AM
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Not 100% sure just yet, but...

Hi Herb, Surf,

Thanks for replying as always.

Currently I'm not 100% sure what's going on. I started getting occasional misfires (always on cylinder 5), and within a week (despite barely driving the car!) it had progressed to constant misfires on cylinder 5 and 8. I also got a coolant warning when I tried to fire it up the other day. Initially, the misfires only started when the car had been running for a few minutes, but now they kick in right off the bat. Although, annoyingly, sometimes I can start the car and she'll purr for a couple of minutes before misfiring again).

I called the AA and the mechanic suspected (as I did) head gasket failure. However, when I pulled the plugs I saw no white deposit on any of the plugs on bank 2. So I had the car recovered to a BMW indie near me. They ran a compression test and saw no issues - they also made the same comment about the plugs not showing any signs of coolant contamination. The BMW indie are of the opinion that the coolant leak is a red herring on the basis that I'd have to be incredibly unlucky for the gasket to start leaking into two cylinders at the same time.

Just to try and rule out a couple of things I unplugged the eccentric shaft position sensors but still got the misfires.

The chap at the indie said he's seen instances of wear on the eccentric shaft in the past that have caused similar issues, but (understably) can't confirm this without removing the covers. Being rather averse to spending money (plus this being my 'hobby car', so to speak) I had the car taken back to mine so I can remove the covers myself to inspect.

So the situation is that currently I don't know exactly what needs to be done, nor will I know for a couple of weeks until I've had some spare time to pull the covers. But in the meantime I'm researching possible/probable causes and what work would be required to address (working to the worst possible scenario of head gasket failure). I'm going through the guides on www.newtis.info in detail and compiling a list of parts/tools I will need. There are several things that made me shiver a little (e.g. getting the exhaust manifolds off, dropping the subframe etc) but I have some good mechanic friends who can help out with that - but the array of 'special tools' required to address any potential issues with eccentric shaft is rather disturbing.

I'd already come across phoenix motorsport whilst searching, and they are actually just around the corner from me in Camberley. A rental price of 20% - 30% of the full cost of the bearing bracket tool (which would be required if I needed to remove the bank 2 intake camshaft to get to the eccentric shaft) seemed a little steep to me, but given the price of the tool (+/- 800) and how few people would probably want to rent it nowadays I understand their position.

So the long & short of it all is that I don't yet know what I'm going to be fixing - I'm just planning for all of the more likely scenarios.

TD.

Last edited by Dover; 01-08-2020 at 01:10 AM.
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Old 01-08-2020, 03:27 AM
Stegman Stegman is offline
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This is something that the BMW Owners Club should be doing- cannot think what else it does with the money from members.

When I had a Volvo this facility was used quite often for 'expensive' tools PrepaidGiftBalance _sl_

Last edited by Stegman; 01-09-2020 at 05:00 AM.
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Old 01-08-2020, 05:21 AM
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Couldn't agree more...

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Originally Posted by Stegman View Post
This is something that the BMW Owners Club should be doing- cannot think what else it does with the money from members.

When I had a Volvo this facility was used quite often for 'expensive' tools.
If only...
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Old 01-08-2020, 08:14 PM
HerbP HerbP is offline
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At this point, what work have you done? Have you removed the fuel rail & injectors by chance? It makes me wonder if you have a fuel pressure or injector problems? Misfires can be caused by spark, compression, air/vacuum, or fuel. What diagnostic equipment are you using, without something like ISTA, or INPA, I am not sure you can narrow down the problem before tearing into the engine. I would also consider running a smoke test to rule out any vacuum leaks, as it will drive our engines crazy. INPA will give you analog & digital engine data that will confirm which cylinders are actually the cause. I do think you can run injector test with INPA also. ISTA will be needed to rule out any module related issues.

The IVM module controls all engine electrical items & sensors. The Valvetronic module controls all of the sensors for timing & the camshaft movements. I have also not asked if the voltage is above 12 volts with the engine off, the ignition on, & the headlights on. Measure the voltage at the jump terminal under the hood. There are a lot of items that can be confirmed, before tearing into the engine. I just don't want you to tear open the engine without ruling out any possibilities.

If you are considering pulling the heads, I would just drop the motor & tranny out the bottom of the sub-frame, & address any problems while you have plenty of space.
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Old 01-08-2020, 11:58 PM
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Hsurf Hsurf is offline
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I'd start (as Herb says) by measuring the battery, unless you keep it on a trickle charger of some kind I doubt its getting the use needed to keep it charged being a "hobby car".
You can also swap the coils and plugs (one at a time) to another cylinder to see if the misfire follows it, assuming you haven't already done that, also gently clean the maf (with the proper cleaner). These cost next to nothing to do as a start and it is just a start, there's a lot of things to check out for a misfire first before taking drastic action, I'd really hold off from replacing the shaft for the moment until all other possibilities have been ruled out.
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Old 01-09-2020, 06:53 AM
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Agreed...

Gents,

I agree completely, and will be doing some due diligence before I go tearing into the engine

My alternator is only a few months old and is a brand new Valeo (not reconditioned). I can't work on the car until the weekend, but I may put it on a trickle charge before then just in case.

I'll keep you posted.

Cheers,

TD.
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Old 01-10-2020, 06:39 AM
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Vacuum leaks...

Hi Gents,

So, I left the car on trickle charge for a day and a half - I still get the same issues.

I'm going to pick up some MAF cleaner (I'm told Halfords Electrical Contact Cleaner does a good job) a little later today and give the MAF a blast with that.

I'm also thinking of ordering one of these (https://www.amazon.co.uk/FireAngels-...8663048&sr=8-8), removing the fuel rail, and giving each of the injectors a good blast through. Anyone had any experience with using such things? Good/bad/indifferent?

I also (with the help of youtube) made my own smoke tester machine using an old jar, some lengths of tube, an old sock, some baby oil and a soldering iron. I'm rather impressed that it actually worked. I can see two vacuum leaks:-

1. Just underneath the intake manifold flap actuator. First thoughts would be the intake manifold gasket but I replaced that only a few months ago so it's unlikely. What other pipes involved in the vacuum system are down there that are common causes of vacuum leaks/wear & tear?

2. The VANOS actuator on bank 1 seems to be leaking too.

Could either of these cause misfires on Bank 2? My misfires remain on cylinders 5 & 8 (and occasionally 6), but *always* start on cylinder 5.

Thanks as always gents,

TD.
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Old 01-10-2020, 06:47 AM
Dover Dover is offline
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I also noticed I hadn't actually answered all of Herb's questions - apologies...

- Work done so far: Just what I put in my last post. I haven't taken anything off the engine yet other than swapping coils/plus as due diligence, and removing the intake filter box so I could run a smoke test. I also replaced the plugs on bank 2 to get rid of that possibility.

- What diagnostics am I using: I only have INPA. I've used that to get the fault codes but not used it for diagnostic activities as such - mainly because I'm not sure what I'm looking for.

- Voltage - not checked yet, but I have a multimeter so will take a look at that shortly.

Thanks as always Gents,

TD.
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Old 01-10-2020, 07:55 AM
HerbP HerbP is offline
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Connect with INPA then Me9 I think in the motor field, then you will see the F tabs at the bottom. You will see Analog & Digital diagnostics that can be run. This will show what cylinders are having problems, & how bad they are. It should also show the can & Eccentric values, along with the fuel injectors. INPA can not do anything to harm the engine, so play around with all of the target values. This should lead you in the correct direction. Post back your findings, & lets see what you have.

Lots of good data to review.
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Old 01-11-2020, 04:47 AM
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INPA ups & downs...

Hi Gents,

I've had a good play with INPA this morning with some limited success.

So, yesterday evening when I started the car I was seeing this in INPA:-

- Engine roughness high on cylinder 8 (value was just over 8)
- O2 sensor adaptions elevated, more so on Bank 2 (Bank 1: ~1, Bank 2: ~1.6)
- O2 sensor voltage pre-cat 1.5 on both banks
- 02 sensor voltage post-cat 0.45 on both banks
- All the values for valve stroke & eccentric shaft didn't seem to be moving (9.6 and 176 respectively)
- Camshaft 'actual' values max'd out at 120 for both banks (both input and output)
- Camshaft 'activation' at ~4.9 for both banks (both input and output)
- Camshafts adaption all within the green area
- Knock values of all cylinders between 0.7 and 1.2

At this point the car was shaking and running like a dog. Misfires logged in cylinders 5, 8 & 6

This morning I found the adaptions page in INPA. I cleared all adaptions (with the engine off), cleared errors, restarted the car and it was fine. Ever so slightly rough, but the Engine Roughness on cylinder 8 had now dropped back to the levels of the rest of the cylinders.

I also tweaked the VVT 'minihub' setting to 0.5mm and the car seemed to really smooth out.

I cleared all codes and drove down the road. I got about 500 metres when the SES light came back on and the car started shaking again. I limped it back to the house, plugged in the laptop and sure enough the readings were back where they were last night.

Resetting adaptions again takes the car back to smooth running - but I can't seem to drive her more than half a mile before the SES light comes back on again. She'll idle bang on 500 RPM smooth as silk. She purrs when you first drive her and acceleration seems fine. All good then provided you don't want to drive more than 500 metres

Any thoughts at this stage Gents? Could the two vacuum leaks I mentioned in my previous posts be causing this? Other posts have also mentioned the vanos solonoids. Is that plausible? Is it worth me pulling them & cleaning them?

Thanks as always,

TD.

Last edited by Dover; 01-11-2020 at 05:01 AM.
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Old 01-11-2020, 01:22 PM
Rick D Rick D is offline
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Originally Posted by Dover View Post

I also (with the help of youtube) made my own smoke tester machine using an old jar, some lengths of tube, an old sock, some baby oil and a soldering iron. I'm rather impressed that it actually worked. I can see two vacuum leaks:-
TD.
Don't you just love it when a little project like this works.....
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Old 01-11-2020, 02:13 PM
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There's no reason at this point not to pull them to inspect and clean but I'd also replace the 8 o-rings for them, make sure they're fully seated when you put them back but also try running the engine without them plugged in (black plugs, not solenoids removed lol) to see how it runs, the DME will run the engine with a default map. And to answer your question, yes, a vacuum leak from anywhere can cause misfires as your introducing unmetered air to the system.
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Old 01-11-2020, 05:40 PM
HerbP HerbP is offline
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I would address the vacuum leaks 1st, where are they located? Smoke test is the best method for finding even the smallest vacuum leak. It almost sounds that the engine might be running good in open loop, then go crazy once it gets in the closed loop? The Vanos solenoids control all of the timing that will effect the engine dramatically. If there was something really wrong with the solenoids, you would have all kinds of timing values causing faults.

The O2 sensors control the fuel/air mixture which could be a problem, but a vacuum leak could cause the O2 sensors to see bad data. It would have the fuel mixture way off trying to account for the vacuum leaks. Have you checked the MAF sensor to see if it is dirty, or possibly unplugged? Unplugging the MAF sensor would put the Vanos system in a default mode, but the engine would have limited power. It will run smooth, just lacking the normal power you should expect. The crank case vent tubes can really effect the idle if they are damaged, & they are famous for cracking with some age on them. Inspect these tubes closely, & also pull the CCV valves to make sure they are not damaged, or torn.

Start a log to see what has been done, & what might have helped?
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Old 01-12-2020, 08:07 AM
Dover Dover is offline
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Todays actions

Thanks for your responses Gents.

My current sequence of events:-

- Delete error codes
- Delete adaptions
- Start car (purrs like a kitten)
- Drive between 500m and 2k - SES light and rough running. INPA reporting misfire on cylinder 5 (but sometimes 8 and 6)
- At this point, looking at engine smoothness in INPA - all cylinders look fine except for EITHER 5 or 8.


Today's actions:

- Unplugged Eccentric Shaft position sensors. Fail: Same sequence of events as above.
- Unpplugged Cam position sensors. Fail: Same sequence as above
- Unplugged Vanos solenoids. Fail: Same sequence as above
- Unplugged Vanos actuators. Fail: Same sequence as above
- Removed Vanos solenoids & cleaned. Fail: Same sequence as above
- Reran smoke test (as I was concerned I was previously blowing smoke into the engine with too much force and actually creating a vacuum leak rather than detecting one). With less force no vacuum leaks were detected.


It seems that no matter what I do the outcome is always the same. I think I'm going to have to take the car to a garage and have a proper vacuum/smoke test done as I'm not 100% confident in my little home made bodge job.

TD.
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Old 01-12-2020, 09:47 AM
FredoinSF FredoinSF is offline
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This will be of no help, but thanks for the updates. Interested in the outcome.


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Old 01-12-2020, 04:03 PM
HerbP HerbP is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dover View Post
Thanks for your responses Gents.

My current sequence of events:-

- Delete error codes
- Delete adaptions
- Start car (purrs like a kitten)
- Drive between 500m and 2k - SES light and rough running. INPA reporting misfire on cylinder 5 (but sometimes 8 and 6)
- At this point, looking at engine smoothness in INPA - all cylinders look fine except for EITHER 5 or 8.


Today's actions:

- Unplugged Eccentric Shaft position sensors. Fail: Same sequence of events as above.
- Unpplugged Cam position sensors. Fail: Same sequence as above
- Unplugged Vanos solenoids. Fail: Same sequence as above
- Unplugged Vanos actuators. Fail: Same sequence as above
- Removed Vanos solenoids & cleaned. Fail: Same sequence as above
- Reran smoke test (as I was concerned I was previously blowing smoke into the engine with too much force and actually creating a vacuum leak rather than detecting one). With less force no vacuum leaks were detected.


It seems that no matter what I do the outcome is always the same. I think I'm going to have to take the car to a garage and have a proper vacuum/smoke test done as I'm not 100% confident in my little home made bodge job.

TD.
To run the smoke test you really on need 2 psi to push the smoke in the engine. You need to block off the throttle body with a 4" pipe test plug, or duct tape real good. Inject the air into the vacuum pump hose that is around 3/8", coming from the brake booster area. Look for smoke.

If there is no smoke coming out of the engine, there should be no vacuum leaks. You will need ISTA to look at the Valvetronic module, as I now feel like this could be your problem? If it will idle with no load, something is keeping the engine from running under load? Diagnostics will show the problem module pretty fast. You still can not rule out the IVM module, as it controls all of the engine sensory functions. This is located DME box, under the cabin filter on the passenger side. It will be on the far left side, & it will have around 7 to 8 fuses located on it. Check all of the fuses to make sure none of them are blown? I don't remember if you have ever touched the IVM module before?
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Old 01-13-2020, 12:30 AM
Dover Dover is offline
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Next steps

Thanks Herb,

Your prompt responses and knowledge are massively appreciated!

Following on from your last response I've decded to bite the bullet and am getting ISTA set up on my laptop. I've been meaning to do this for a while so this has finally forced me into action.

In terms of the IVM module: I replaced this about 6 months ago as my previous one had oil in it that had been wicked up through the wires due to the amount of oil that was leaking through the oil pressure switch and various sensors (the BMW tech at my local garage said he'd never seen that before!). All of those leaks have now been addressed - I checked the IVM and it is oil free. I'll pull it again and check the fuses though just in case.

Thanks for the clarification on where the smoke test should be run from. With my home made tester I was feeding smoke in through the throttle body - but your suggestion of blocking off the throttle body and feeding in via the vacuum pump makes far more sense. I've ordered a 4" pipe blocker so I'll give that a go and report back.

I was going to remove the fuel rail from the car and take it to someone to have the injectors properly checked and cleaned (just to erradicate that as a possible issue), but from my brief reading about ISTA it provides a means of testing the injectors. So there's probably not too much point in doing that just yet.

So I now have a couple of days break whilst I'm getting ISTA sorted and waiting for the pipe blocker. Once I have everything in place I'll report back again.

Many thanks,

TD.
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Old 01-13-2020, 10:26 AM
HerbP HerbP is offline
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Originally Posted by Dover View Post
Thanks Herb,

Your prompt responses and knowledge are massively appreciated!

Following on from your last response I've decded to bite the bullet and am getting ISTA set up on my laptop. I've been meaning to do this for a while so this has finally forced me into action.

In terms of the IVM module: I replaced this about 6 months ago as my previous one had oil in it that had been wicked up through the wires due to the amount of oil that was leaking through the oil pressure switch and various sensors (the BMW tech at my local garage said he'd never seen that before!). All of those leaks have now been addressed - I checked the IVM and it is oil free. I'll pull it again and check the fuses though just in case.

Thanks for the clarification on where the smoke test should be run from. With my home made tester I was feeding smoke in through the throttle body - but your suggestion of blocking off the throttle body and feeding in via the vacuum pump makes far more sense. I've ordered a 4" pipe blocker so I'll give that a go and report back.

I was going to remove the fuel rail from the car and take it to someone to have the injectors properly checked and cleaned (just to erradicate that as a possible issue), but from my brief reading about ISTA it provides a means of testing the injectors. So there's probably not too much point in doing that just yet.

So I now have a couple of days break whilst I'm getting ISTA sorted and waiting for the pipe blocker. Once I have everything in place I'll report back again.

Many thanks,

TD.
I think you can check the injectors with INPA. When you get the 4" test plug, you will need to wrap it with some type of tape. I usually wrap it with electrical tape to insure a air tight seal. I think there is a recall on our injectors that I received from BMW around a year ago, check to see if this applies to you? When you pull the fuel rail, be careful to not loose any o-rings. There will be one on the top, & 1 on the bottom of the injector. It probably wouldn't hurt to check the fuel pressure to eliminate that also.
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Old 01-17-2020, 01:48 AM
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Hi folks,

Been a few days since I last posted. I'd been waiting for my ISTA stuff to arrive and find the time to install it all. Quickly on that subject, for any UK-based members who are looking to get ISTA etc, I used this ebay listing (https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/LATEST-UL...T/133081257311) and I have to say I'm very impressed! The software & cables turned up the next day - the entire install, configuration, settings (port settings etc) are all guided by excellent step-by-step by video files. You could do far worse than purchasing from this chap.

Anyway, I digress...

Got ISTA installed and spent a few hours familiarising myself with it. It's an impressive tool. So after a couple of hours fiddling I noticed some subtle differences in fault information between what I was previously seeing in my (very old) version on INPA, and the newer version of INPA that shipped with the ISTA disks, and ISTA itself. Mainly to do with a code 2781 (Cam position sensor - Intake - Bank 1) that the car has had as long as I can remember. It's never seemed to affect the car's performance. I noticed that this fault code now had some additional detail - namely 'hoch' (German for 'high'). I then noticed that if I unplugged the sensor I still got fault 2781 but without the 'Hoch'. I'd always throught that the sensor was completely unresponsive but this indicated to me that it was, in fact, providing data - but constantly saying the reading was High. That 2781 error code always triggered as soon as the car was started (every time, without fail).

Last year, I'd had to replace the Cam position sensor (intake Bank 2). I'd initially bought a cheap generic sensor for 20 which I pretty quickly replaced with a genuine BMW one as the generic one kept causing erratic surges during idle and quite often triggered an SES light. There's a lesson right there - if people tell you to always use genuine BMW sensors they usually have a reason for it ...so lesson learned. Anyway, I still had that sensor in my garage so I swapped it with the bank 1 sensor. Immediately the car improved and, despite getting the idle surges like it had caused previously, I was able to drive the car without getting an error after 500 metres. The error 2781 also didn't appear immediately - only after a few minutes driving if/when the idle surges started.

Added to that, I'd recently got a couple of Active Steering errors which I'd attributed to the battery going flat whilst the car wasn't being used. The errors indicated that Active Steering wasn't initialised, and also that there was a VIN mismatch. Sure enough, when I'd checked in the 'User Information Field' in INPA the VIN was listed as '????????'. I did a bit of googling around programming the VIN using winKFP and was able to flash the AFS_60 module and correct the VIN (the DSC, SZL & SFZ modules also needed flashing). I won't go into too much detail about the load of errors with the restraint system etc that I then got and the panic that started to set in, but I will say that I was able to resolve them by starting up the system time on those modules ('Vehicle Management' > 'Service Functions' > 'body' in ISTA) and by syncing the VIN with the EPROM using INPA. I was then able to initialize Active Steering under 'Vehicle Management' > 'Service Functions' > 'Chassis' in ISTA). So whilst I was in 'programming mode' I also flashed the DME seeing as none of my modules (except AFS which was a second hand unit I bought after the car got flooded by a blocked scuttle drain by the brake master cylinder) had been updated since the car's build date (March 2004). Again, I immediately got improved performance.

So I'm currently waiting on a new Cam Position sensor (Inlet) which should arrive today. I'm hopeful that this may be the piece of the puzzle that will get everything working correctly again.

It's not all good news though in that although the car is now running ok (save for the surging I get due to the current cam position sensor) I do get other errors now showing in INPA - namely 2731 (DME: Camshaft control Intake Bank 1), 2732 (DME: Camshaft control Intake Bank 2) and 27BC (DME: Camshaft control Exhaust VANOS bank 2). I'm hoping that these new fault codes are being triggered by the DME trying to account for faulty cam position data from the intake bank 1 sensor. I'll be able to comment more on this later today once I have the new sensor installed.

I'll report back later. Cheers,

TD.

Last edited by Dover; 01-17-2020 at 01:53 AM.
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  #23  
Old 01-17-2020, 05:48 AM
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645/333 645/333 is online now
Michael
Location: UK
 
Join Date: Jun 2010
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Mein Auto: BMW 640i SE Convertible
really pleased you are taking the time to update other members, this makes a massive difference
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  #24  
Old 01-17-2020, 06:04 AM
Dover Dover is offline
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Location: Surrey, England
 
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Mein Auto: 645 vert
The least I can do

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Originally Posted by 645/333 View Post
really pleased you are taking the time to update other members, this makes a massive difference
You're more than welcome.

It's the least I can do given the time members have spent offering me guidance & insight.
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  #25  
Old 01-17-2020, 06:52 PM
HerbP HerbP is offline
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Location: Georgia
 
Join Date: Jul 2009
Posts: 7,314
Mein Auto: 05 645Ci, 14 750 M-Sport
Use the service function in ISTA, & see if the Vanos system is operating properly? Usually the Vanos system will fail if one of the Vanos solenoids has a broken wire. ISTA also should be able to handle the diagnostic faults better than INPA, unless you are using INPA for the Analog & Digital run data. When you get a fault list in ISTA, it will create a Service Plan that will step you thru the fault. Follow that path to find the faulty component. The Control Tree in ISTA will have different colors, indicating problems within the module. You can click on that module & run the ECU Functions at the bottom left of the screen. At that point you will enter the module, & can run diagnostics, read data, & delete faults in that particular module. Any safety related faults must be clear in that module, since they are safety related.

While you are in the Service Functions, check to see if the battery has been registered, or not. It is very easy to register the battery if needed, & you can see the history on when batteries were installed.
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