R & R Front Lower Forward Control Arms F10 Xdrive - Bimmerfest - BMW Forums



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F10 / F11 (2011 - 2016)
The sixth generation of the BMW 5 Series Sedan (F10) was produced from 2011 - 2016 with LCI updates arriving in 2014. In the US BMW offered a hatchback 5 Series Gran Truismo (F07) and the rest of the world also go a Station Wagon/Touring version F11.

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  #1  
Old 11-11-2019, 05:48 AM
KAT1179 KAT1179 is offline
528i xDrive
Location: Philadelphia
 
Join Date: Feb 2018
Posts: 7
Mein Auto: 528i xDrive
R & R Front Lower Forward Control Arms F10 Xdrive

I had searched and searched and could not find anything on replacing the lower forward control arms on my 528I XDrive. I found plenty on the rear wheel drive only cars but that didn't help at all.

So I just went ahead and tackled it blind, I wish I would have taken some pictures but I did not. At any rate I think I can give some simple instructions that can help anyone doing this in the future to prevent the mistakes I made while doing it.

I purchased the control arms at Rockauto for $80 each. It seems all over the various forums people say to get the more expensive parts at upwards of $200 each. I will tell you that the Mevotech (CMS101357 Right side / CMS101358 Left Side) are quality pieces. I'm a mechanical engineer in manufacturing so don't waste extra cash for the more expensive parts.

So here is the procedure going from memory trying to give you wrench sizes for the bolts, I remember most of them:

*Wire brush and spray all bolts and threads with penetrating oil. (Trust Me!!)
*Remove all the under shielding, the 1 big piece and the 2 smaller pieces on each side. There is a million screws holding this stuff on.

1.) Jack up car and remove both front wheels.
2.) Use a 17mm hex socket on a breaker bar and have someone step on the brake pedal while breaking loose the axle bolt in the center of the hub. leaving bolt in place for now.
3.) Remove the rotor bolt it was a torx screw not sure of the size.
4.) Compress the piston in the caliper using a pry bar on the front of the caliper against the rotor.
5.) Remove 2 18mm bolts holding the caliper on the hub, move brake assembly out of the way supporting it so as not to damage the brake lines.
6.) Remove the dust shield by removing 4 8mm bolts, for ease of access.
7.) Loosen the 23 or 24mm nut on the ball joint and you will also need a 45mm torx for the bottom of the ball joint once nut is loose and remove nut. If you could get an assistant to hold the 45mm torx in the bottom of the ball joint that would really help. ( I had to grind one nut off the ball joint because I stripped the torx out of the ball joint)
8.) Using a 21mm socket wrench and a 21mm box end wrench loosen upper bolt on the control arm and remove.
9.) Remove the 17mm axle bolt from center of the hub and shift the axle up and over just enough to remove the ball joint and arm out of the hub.
10.) Install new control arm and lightly tighten bolt at the upper end of the arm. Do not tighten! Must be tightened with the cars weight on it as it normally sits or the bushing will prematurely fail.
11.) The Mevotech arms ball joint nut is 24mm and you can tighten this nut and torque to specification.
12.) Replace the axle screw into the axle and snug it up insuring that you engage the teeth in the axle with the hub.
13.) Re-install the dust shield and re-install the rotor and the torx screw in the rotor.
14.) Re-install the caliper assembly.
15.) Now I lowered the car with jack stands under the rotor putting the cars full weight back on the suspension so that I could now torque to specification the upper bolt in the control arms.
16.) Again have someone step on the brake and torque to specification the axle bolt.
17.) Insure all bolts and nuts are torqued to the required specifications. ( I found the torque specs on NewTis).
18.) Replace the wheels and take the car to have the alignment done.
19.) You just saved over $1200!

Hopefully I got everything. If you need more just let me know.
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2013 528i xDrive. Black Sapphire
2011 Porsche Cayenne, Umber
2001 Corvette, 6 spd
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  #2  
Old 11-11-2019, 11:14 PM
MunichMark MunichMark is offline
Munich Mark - 2014 535XD
Location: Freiburg, Germany
 
Join Date: Jun 2014
Posts: 595
Mein Auto: 2014 535XD (German Model)
Nice report, yes itís a big job getting the Axles out the way, did you also upgrade to the Hydro Bushing or change it out too ? They donít last forever.
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MunichMark
2014 535XD LCI
Euro 313HP
465 TQ @1500 RPM
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  #3  
Old 11-12-2019, 03:45 AM
KAT1179 KAT1179 is offline
528i xDrive
Location: Philadelphia
 
Join Date: Feb 2018
Posts: 7
Mein Auto: 528i xDrive
Hmm, not sure what the hydro bushing is, but when I was in there everything else looked really good. The arm came with bushings already in it if that's what you are referring to.
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