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535d N57 EGR/SCR/DPF Delete

61K views 62 replies 25 participants last post by  Serg001 
#1 · (Edited)
Hello, I have successfully Deleted my 2015 535d, I gutted the DPF and the SCR AND removed both EGR´s completely also removed the swirl flaps and DEF tank, cleaned my intake manifold and walnut blasted the cylinder head.
The Tuning was done by DUDMD.
I***8217;m going to cover mostly the Removal of the EGR coolers and the coolant lines, since I couldn***8217;t fine any info online, the rest was gutting the DPF and SCR there is lots of info online, there is no need to remove the engine mount to replace the DPF unlike the 335d.

Took a lot of research but it went flawlessly, ordered 2 different EGR delete kits on eBay but they don***8217;t exactly fit a US car.
First I ordered this kit.
https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https://www.ebay.com/ulk/itm/173729214904

This is what comes with the kit:


It looked good until I realized that there is not cover/plate for the intake manifold.



Also there is not plug for the cylinder head coolant port.

Then I ordered this kit.
https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https://www.ebay.com/ulk/itm/183636957862



This kit does have the needed cover for the intake manifold pipe mention above also has the plug for the water pump port and the cylinder head port Kind of ***
So this cylinder head port cover is not perfect fit, the plug is very short, although I could of make it work using one of the longer machined plugs from the first kit I ordered but instead I used a hard plastic OEM plug that I seen online while browsing pictures of N57 Cylinder heads, I was a little worry because nothing holds this OEM plug in place other than the 2 -O rings, but it has been there for couple thousand miles now with no issues and it was $4.76
Part number 11-71-8-518-878
https://www.getbmwparts.com/oem-parts/bmw-cap-889520-11718518878



So Now since I want it to remove both EGR***8217;s I need a different block off plate to go on the exhaust manifold, I contacted Sebastian Work shop the seller of the kit, and he had the block off plate built for me and that worked great! After that he post it for sale of eBay so now you can get it from him or have a machine shop make one for you.
https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https://www.ebay.com/ulk/itm/183805112344



Now on to to the EGR Cooler hoses/lines:
There is 2 hoses that come off the big hose tree right off the water pump, a feed and a return, it goes to the small EGR cooler (Attached to the exhaust Manifold), from there it T off to engine block and it goes to the Urea Injector and back to the water pump tree


This is the coolant tree after I capped the 2 lines with this 2 OEM blind caps
17-12-8-515-062 $5.98
11-53-1-436-850 $5.93
It already had 2 caps in place, I removed the 2 hoses and added 2 new caps.


Now the Connection to the engine block:
This line needs to be removed and there is a OEM bolt and sealing washer that goes on its place, the block actually has threads for this already!
Water Plug: 07-11-9-904-539 $1.67
Sealing Washer: 07-11-9-963-225 $0.40
Have your bucket ready to collect coolant when you disconnect this hose :)


That take care of the coolant lines, it took a gallon of coolant to refill on my car.
All the vacuum lines can be disconnected and capped at the source(driver side by oil
deep stick)
DUDMD took care of the tuning, the car runs very strong and smooth, there is visible smoke at WOT but I***8217;m ok with that, I left the DOC in place to help with the smell.
Here is all the parts that I removed






This is what it looks like, she***8217;s all stock :)
 
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#4 ·
So what advantages does this give you? Was your DPF clogged and rather than replace it for $$$ you decided to delete?

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My DPF was not clog yet, But I do not want all the crap to continue clogging my intake manifold/ cylinder head, this is what it looked like


 
#5 ·
Thanks for sharing your photos and process with the group. :)

Regarding the EGR delete: This a dumb question based in laziness (i.e. it seems like what you did was a lot of work) but would you not have accomplished the same goal by having the tuner program the EGR valves to be closed all the time?
 
#6 ·
Hello, there may be software way to do it, but EGR coolers have always been problematic, there some cases of fire.
https://www.carcomplaints.com/news/2018/bmw-egr-cooler-recall.shtml

also sometimes the piping start leaking and turn the entire engine bay in to a soot basket (this happened to my E70 35d).

in some cases (ford Power stroke) the EGR coolers crack internally and it dumps coolant in to the intake manifold and hydrolock the engine:mad:

so I hate them and I preffer to have them removed completely.

There is other ways to do it, some people block the EGR on both sides etc.
 
#13 ·
It is Pipe number 6 in the below link...I can get a blank for the end of the pipe that connects to the plastic inlet manifold but not sure if the number 7 end of the pipe in the below link needs blanking off too as this end connects to the cylinder head?

Thanks

https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/sh...-2011-F01-BMW-740d&diagId=11_4259#11617807481
This kit has it.

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https://www.ebay.com/ulk/itm/173741610490

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
#14 ·
#8 ·
You just need to plug the side on the exhaust manifold to prevent what delvi said about sooting the bay.
And coolant caps or bypass lines so coolant doesn't go through the cooler.
The egr valve stays shut, no need for a cap on that side. Intake Pressure pushes it harder closed anyway.
 
#10 · (Edited)
Delvi,

Is that you from TDIclub? N1DAS here from TDIclub. it seems many of us here are former TDI owners. :)

I don't know how to shrink the pics other than to upload smaller pics to start with. Sorry I can't help more.

Must....resist.....urge....to mod.....my 535dx. :)
 
#23 ·
Better way to go is to have it tuned out. The reason that it cracks and leaks is due to the expansion and contraction from heat. Turn off the EGR, and that stop that from happening, or at least exponentially slows it from happening...as long as it's done before any damage has begun.

Hate to be the downer, but even if you aren't dealing with emissions yet, you will at some point, and then you won't be able to pass emissions. EPA is busting down hard on both the consumers, and even the vendors for selling these bypass kits.


Don't get me wrong, I would love to **** can the whole system. Proven science shows that it's wrong, inefficient, and just bad. We won't even get into the true logistics of what the DEF does, how the different phases affect the emissions and their side effects....that goes for power and efficiency, as WELL as environmental.

But the idiots making the decisions tend not to listen to reason and just drink the coolaid.

That and I'm sure it would be the end of some division in the EPA, and of course we can't have that! :rolleyes:
 
#25 ·
Wondering if the OP, or someone else who's done this can confirm, that the simple $24 plate (https://www.ebay.com/itm/183805112344?ul_noapp=true), if used alone would allow you to block off the egr, and leave the rest of the system intact but inert?

As graphicjunkie points out, if you're not already required to pass an emissions test, it's very likely coming. Simply blocking the exhaust port would be the simplest solution that could be easily reversed if or when needed, correct?
 
#36 · (Edited)
As an FYI for anybody else looking into this:

I emailed Sebastin and he says these are the parts needed for the US N57 EGR valve/cooler delete:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/BMW-N47N-N...e=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Additional...e=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

Plus I ordered OP's list of BMW parts to have on hand (updated pricing)
11-71-8-518-878 $5.27
17-12-8-515-062 $6.61
11-53-1-436-850 $6.55
07-11-9-904-539 $1.73
07-11-9-963-225 $0.41
Total: $22.71 plus tax/SH

Ordered from https://www.getbmwparts.com/ because my local dealership wanted $62 for everything :thumbdwn:

Puts the cost for this project at $140.
 
#41 ·
Need some advice. I'm in the process of removing EGR now and I'm stock on the coolant line that travels to the back of the engine block. Do I need to remove DPF to get to it?
Another question, where's the vacuum pump? And which lines have to be removed and plugged up?
Thanks

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#42 ·
I don't remember how much room is there since I did mine with the DPF removed, there is no vacuum line to plug in just coolant AFIK.
 
#43 ·
I finally got to that coolant line, it is held by a small bolt behind DPF.
As far as vacuum lines, you mentioned you had those blocked at the vacuum pump. Do you remember if there's only one line going to the exhaust manifold side of engine, right above DPF and then another one that goes to the front of the engine, where second EGR cooler is located, right by the intake manifold? Or are there more lines that need to be capped off?

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#47 ·
Isn't that the coolant line to the EGR? If so, you need to remove it. In order to do it you need couple of plugs that go onto the coolant flange in front of the engine. Those sensors I plugged back into my downpipe. I ordered one that had holes for all the original hardware but it really depends on what type of downpipe you've ordered. One looks like temp sensor, that one you probably need. I can't make out the other one, could be NOx or SCR injector. If it's the injector you could just remove it, if not the i really don't know. Also, when you remove those coolant lines, make sure you plug the hole in the engine block located just behind where DPF used to be.

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#48 ·
One looks like temp sensor, that one you probably need. I can't make out the other one, could be NOx or SCR injector. If it's the injector you could just remove it, if not the i really don't know. Also, when you remove those coolant lines, make sure you plug the hole in the engine block located just behind where DPF used to be.
I was able to recognize those as the o2 sensor and the egt (temp). Should be plug in the downpipe as the manufacturer stating. Will see tomorrow. And did you mean that hole?
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1031685
 
#49 ·
I believe he's referring to the coolant hose that attaches to EGR cooler right above the DPF, at least that's what is circled in his first picture. Good call on O2 sensor, it's been a while since i was there and i couldn't remember what it looked like.

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