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E36/7 Z3 (1996-2002)
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  #1  
Old 05-01-2019, 07:38 AM
TMair TMair is offline
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A few questions on what and how...

Hello again.
Ok so I am trying to make sure everything on my car, a 1996 Z3 with 205K miles on it continues trouble free, it runs just fine, however ever since I have owned the car the airbag light has been on, the other day I pulled the seats to tighten some seat covers that I have on it, when I was putting in the passenger seat I noticed that I had one extra plug that I did not unplug I am guessing this is the plug for the airbag sensor, I have ordered the tools to reset the light, is there anything I need to know about doing this?

I would like to replace the sub frame bushings in the rear, but do not know what I need, or where is the best place to get them, can someone give me a link?

I also need to replace the bushings in the drivers side seat I will do both seats, can someone point me in the direction to get what I need for that?

As I understand it the amp is the week link in the audio system in these cars, I have replaced the head unit because the cassette player went junk on the factory one, since I have the new unit already wired in if I want to bypass the amp is it possible to just go to the amp and connect the correct wires together to get the lead from the radio going to each speaker? The radio has a built in amp.

Thanks in advance!!

Terry
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  #2  
Old 05-01-2019, 07:18 PM
Blacklane Blacklane is offline
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There is so much to unpack here.

Yes. It's possible that someone forgot to plug something in under the seat. The usual failure is that water got under the seat and shorted the plug. If everything is dry and clean, an SRS code reset tool will clear the code. If not, the code will return at the next ignition power cycle. There is also a yaw sensor under the driver's seat that fails if it gets wet.

You need to replace the subframe bushings with polyurethane ones from Ireland Engineering, PowerFlex, AKG, or several other sources. The OEM ones were too soft and have not improved with age. There are several how-to videos on YouTube. Never use polyurethane in the differential bushing. While the subframe is off, it's also a good time to consider weld-in rear camber and toe adjusters from Ireland Engineering. You need the eccentric ones. The posi-lock ones can hit the fuel tank on the Z3. However, note that the 1.9 engines and/or automatic transmissions never seem to cause the trunk floor tear-out, so you don't have to worry about that.

Delrin Seat bushings are available from Mason Engineering. They are the way to go. There are several YouTube videos on that process.

There is nothing good about the Z3 sound system except the wires. You can replace whatever you want, but you will eventually want to replace everything including the amp in the trunk. There are many wiring diagrams available through a simple internet search. In general, on BMW sound wiring the muted color is the negative wire, so a pair with a grey stripe and a blue stripe, the grey is negative. Similar for red/brown, green/olive, etc.

There is much already written here. Just use the "Search This Forum" button to find informative threads on any topic.
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Old 05-02-2019, 09:29 AM
TMair TMair is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Blacklane View Post
There is so much to unpack here.

Yes. It's possible that someone forgot to plug something in under the seat. The usual failure is that water got under the seat and shorted the plug. If everything is dry and clean, an SRS code reset tool will clear the code. If not, the code will return at the next ignition power cycle. There is also a yaw sensor under the driver's seat that fails if it gets wet.

You need to replace the subframe bushings with polyurethane ones from Ireland Engineering, PowerFlex, AKG, or several other sources. The OEM ones were too soft and have not improved with age. There are several how-to videos on YouTube. Never use polyurethane in the differential bushing. While the subframe is off, it's also a good time to consider weld-in rear camber and toe adjusters from Ireland Engineering. You need the eccentric ones. The posi-lock ones can hit the fuel tank on the Z3. However, note that the 1.9 engines and/or automatic transmissions never seem to cause the trunk floor tear-out, so you don't have to worry about that.

Delrin Seat bushings are available from Mason Engineering. They are the way to go. There are several YouTube videos on that process.

There is nothing good about the Z3 sound system except the wires. You can replace whatever you want, but you will eventually want to replace everything including the amp in the trunk. There are many wiring diagrams available through a simple internet search. In general, on BMW sound wiring the muted color is the negative wire, so a pair with a grey stripe and a blue stripe, the grey is negative. Similar for red/brown, green/olive, etc.

There is much already written here. Just use the "Search This Forum" button to find informative threads on any topic.
Thank you for the reply!!

Just wanted to mentions I did do several searches, and read a lot of threads, but with all of the different bushings that are available it is hard to know, and I just didn't want to do my own experimenting with different bushings, at a $100 a pop one can understand not wanting to do that!

I know there are several different sub frame bushings to choose from, I don't drive the car hard, I mean it does have the 1.9, which I like by the way, so I am thinking I don't need really hard bushings, but better than stock, of all the ones out there is there one that is better for old man driving than young race car driving?

Also I am guessing the differential bushings are the ones that hold the differential to the body on the one ear bracket, is this correct?

As for the sound system, yesterday I replaced the kick panel speakers with RockfordFosgate Prime speakers, those were recommended in another thread, they seam to sound pretty good. As I mentioned I was considering just getting rid of the amp, and using the one built into the head unit, now that I have those speakers in, and like I said they sound pretty good,(my hearing is not the best...to many days at the range) is there an advantage to bypassing the amp?

Today the tool to read the code, and reset the airbag light should be here, I got the code reader, and the adapter for under the hood, is this pretty straight forward or is there something I should be aware of, do I just need the key turned on, or does it need to be running, or neither? I am hoping the problem was that wire that was not plugged in and all will be well once I reset it...fingers crossed.

That kind of brings me to the seat bushings when I go to replace them, is the only thing I need to be aware of is not turning on the key with the seats unplugged, or will it need reset regardless?

Thanks again for your help!!

Terry
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  #4  
Old 05-03-2019, 12:10 PM
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vintage42 vintage42 is offline
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.

Last edited by vintage42; 05-05-2019 at 04:56 AM. Reason: Duplicate
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Old 05-03-2019, 12:13 PM
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vintage42 vintage42 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TMair View Post
... I don't drive the car hard, I mean it does have the 1.9, which I like by the way, so I am thinking I don't need really hard bushings, but better than stock, of all the ones out there is there one that is better for old man driving than young race car driving?...
Just from what you say, I don't see why you need to do the RSF bushings at all. Unless you have some problem.
I am 76, a normal spirited driver, with a 1.9 that has no handling or trunk floor problems, and I did buy the bushings for $100. But I balked at the $400 estimate from a shop to install them. Not that I am cheap, as in seven years I have spared no expense to buy, repair, maintain, improve and make this cream puff car perfect, but I did not see the need for those RSF bushings and re-sold them.
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Old 05-04-2019, 11:15 AM
TMair TMair is offline
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Location: Utah
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vintage42 View Post
Just from what you say, I don't see why you need to do the RSF bushings at all. Unless you have some problem.
I am 76, a normal spirited driver, with a 1.9 that has no handling or trunk floor problems, and I did buy the bushings for $100. But I balked at the $400 estimate from a shop to install them. Not that I am cheap, as in seven years I have spared no expense to buy, repair, maintain, improve and make this cream puff car perfect, but I did not see the need for those RSF bushings and re-sold them.
Thanks for the reply, I just put rear shock on it, while I had it on the Jack I checks everything, no trunk problems, And the bushings looked and felt good when I put a Jack on the undercarriage, and I don't notice anything when I drive it that seams wrong so I think I will wait on that.

On another note I did get all of the warning lights to go away.

Thanks again
Terry

Last edited by TMair; 05-04-2019 at 11:17 AM.
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