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X5 E70 (2007 - 2013)
E70 BMW X5 produced between 2007 and 2013. Discuss the E70 X5 with other BMW owners here.

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  #26  
Old 07-26-2019, 09:48 AM
2010xdrive35d 2010xdrive35d is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Doug Huffman View Post
Not so! Registration resets the Coulomb counter.

The IBS counts Coulombs into and out of the AGM battery to prevent overcharging. Registration tells the ECU that a new battery is installed and to reset the counters.

Be aware that batteries are not maintained charged on the shelf awaiting sale. Ideally, fully charge the battery with a proper charger before installation. In any case, always charge using the underhood acccess points.
Just knew I would miss something.

So with that being said Doug, where do you connect your CTEK? I was under the impression maybe it was permanently mounted in the rear with the battery. Not thinking you were popping your hood every time to keep the battery topped off.
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  #27  
Old 07-26-2019, 10:20 AM
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Doug Huffman Doug Huffman is offline
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Your owners manual cautions to ALWAYS charge the battery or jump the starter from the under hood points.
Quote:
Charging the battery
In the vehicle, only charge the battery via the terminals in the engine compartment, refer to page 281, with the engine switched off.
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Last edited by Doug Huffman; 07-26-2019 at 10:22 AM.
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  #28  
Old 07-26-2019, 11:57 AM
edycol edycol is offline
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Originally Posted by 2010xdrive35d View Post
Just knew I would miss something.



So with that being said Doug, where do you connect your CTEK? I was under the impression maybe it was permanently mounted in the rear with the battery. Not thinking you were popping your hood every time to keep the battery topped off.


It is in the hood. As far as I remember, there is ground on your right side when you standing in front of engine. Looks like hanging screw. Than there is positive, covered with red plastic protector. Yes, every time you want to hook up CTEK you you to do it through under hood ports.
Also, give that car some run outside city for various reasons not only battery.


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  #29  
Old 07-26-2019, 12:05 PM
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Doug Huffman Doug Huffman is offline
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Originally Posted by 2010xdrive35d View Post
Not thinking you were popping your hood every time to keep the battery topped off.
The weekly batttery charge is also my opportunity to inspect under the hood. I check dipstick, coolant expansion tank level, belts, and, added recently, vibration reducer elastomer element. Since Iím there with a flashlight I try to poke around, getting familiar and looking for things maybe amiss.
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Scepticism and Animal Faith (1923)
Scepticism is the chastity of the intellect, and it is shameful to surrender it too soon or to the first comer: there is nobility in preserving it coolly and proudly through long youth, until at last, in the ripeness of instinct and discretion, it can be safely exchanged for fidelity and happiness.
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Eschew eristical argumentation. I am responsible for what I write, not for your understanding of it.
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  #30  
Old 07-26-2019, 12:33 PM
2010xdrive35d 2010xdrive35d is offline
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Originally Posted by edycol View Post
It is in the hood. As far as I remember, there is ground on your right side when you standing in front of engine. Looks like hanging screw. Than there is positive, covered with red plastic protector. Yes, every time you want to hook up CTEK you you to do it through under hood ports.
Also, give that car some run outside city for various reasons not only battery.


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Absolutely! We head to my wife's sisters once every three weeks on average. They live close to 2 hours away. Like you said for the battery and others. I've heard that's probably the best time the particulate filter will regen. And some more reasons I haven't thought of. I'm sure diesels are happiest when on the open road or working so to speak.

I never plan on pulling anything with mine, but I know if I installed a hitch on it, there isn't much it couldn't do. Better to have and not need, than to need and not have. Right?

We just kinda fell into this one. I wasn't hesitant at all about owning a diesel or BMW. I see getting a lot of good years of service out if it. Which means you'll be seeing me around for a while so might as well get used to me

Last edited by 2010xdrive35d; 07-26-2019 at 12:34 PM.
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  #31  
Old 07-27-2019, 07:22 AM
edycol edycol is offline
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Originally Posted by 2010xdrive35d View Post
Absolutely! We head to my wife's sisters once every three weeks on average. They live close to 2 hours away. Like you said for the battery and others. I've heard that's probably the best time the particulate filter will regen. And some more reasons I haven't thought of. I'm sure diesels are happiest when on the open road or working so to speak.

I never plan on pulling anything with mine, but I know if I installed a hitch on it, there isn't much it couldn't do. Better to have and not need, than to need and not have. Right?

We just kinda fell into this one. I wasn't hesitant at all about owning a diesel or BMW. I see getting a lot of good years of service out if it. Which means you'll be seeing me around for a while so might as well get used to me


Get diagnostic tool. Inevitably you will have issues with SCR components. A lot of stuff is not big deal, but it is PITA to find a problem.


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  #32  
Old 07-27-2019, 08:16 AM
2010xdrive35d 2010xdrive35d is offline
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That's pretty much all I've heard. It's one of the weakest links on this vehicle. But I'm up for the challenge. In addition to a scan tool, and of course you guys!
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  #33  
Old 07-30-2019, 04:39 PM
brewtech brewtech is offline
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voltage issue

Run the vehicle at about 13-1500 RPM. use a voltmeter to check output voltage at the cigarette lighter or at the battery. Battery does go bad, but so do alternators. I found owning a battery load tester to be a wonderful thing as well. I lost an alternator on my 2006 545i and the dash lit up like a blinking xmas tree....all bad data as voltage was low and only critical engine systems were maintained. Poor zero fault tolerant design by BMW. Good luck. Oh, look for say 13.8 to 14.5 or so volts dc from the alternator....
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  #34  
Old 07-30-2019, 05:34 PM
scottalexander scottalexander is offline
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Regarding the voltage warning, I had that last month.

I pulled out the alternator and replaced the voltage regulator and brushes for $30.

This has got to be the fastest, inexpensive, proactive DIY for the electrical system voltage.

What was a real eye opener was when I disassembled the alternator and looked at the slip rings. They were so dirty the charge going back to the battery couldn't have been 14 volts.

I also got a good idea for brush wear patterns.

It was a good exercise to clean the inside of the alternator, replace the regulator and now know that the alternator is performing like new again.
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  #35  
Old 07-30-2019, 05:59 PM
ard ard is offline
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Where did you buy that reg/brush? part # and/or link would be useful. (also what size Alt your car has...)

Just dropping this here...an owner had an intermittent Alt. Seemed like 1 of the coils would come and go. Worked sometimes... kinda hard to diagnoses (without continuous monitoring) since the system was trying to compensate...it would run off the battery..then come back and start charging.
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OEM is Original Equipment Manufacturer... EITHER the company that made the OE part or.... A part this is identical to the OE part, but is sold by the OEM under their own label


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  #36  
Old 07-30-2019, 06:25 PM
scottalexander scottalexander is offline
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Below is the information on where I got the voltage regulator for my e60 528i.

Know that finding the voltage regular was not easy. Everyone wanted to sell me a new alternator.

I called Valeo in France for the 180 amp regulator and where to buy it in the USA. The entire process took 1 month and I share with you all the information below.

WagnerAlt.com 800-345-5927 for $22

Adam Nations from Nations Starter & Alternator , 573-334-2632 or [email protected] Adam Nations price is $49
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  #37  
Old 07-30-2019, 08:09 PM
robnitro robnitro is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ard View Post
Where did you buy that reg/brush? part # and/or link would be useful. (also what size Alt your car has...)

Just dropping this here...an owner had an intermittent Alt. Seemed like 1 of the coils would come and go. Worked sometimes... kinda hard to diagnoses (without continuous monitoring) since the system was trying to compensate...it would run off the battery..then come back and start charging.
Usually if you lose a coil /diode you still get charging but at idle it can be weak with accessories on. Look for steady 13.6 to 14.7 v depending on temperature. Any dip lower longer than a second is a clear sign.
Brushes are usually the culprit with intermittent charging. In some cases it'll charge at idle only to drop with higher rpm if it's brushes skipping/arcing.

Last edited by robnitro; 07-30-2019 at 08:11 PM.
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  #38  
Old 08-14-2019, 01:42 PM
2010xdrive35d 2010xdrive35d is offline
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I nursed the battery along as long as I could. Picked up a new battery last night from Advance. They had the best deal @ $199 with a 25% off when purchased online, you prepay for the core and you get it back when you bring the battery in. Easy swap and it fired up with fastest it ever has since we've owned it anyway. Even though I didn't register the battery I plan to do so Friday. I know this could present some issues especially since the old battery was 6 years old and the alternator was probably putting out the juice to keep it charged, I was between a rock and a hard place when the wife called me at 5:37 and said her car wouldn't start at all. The battery was toast! I figured a couple of days wouldn't do too much harm to the overall life of the battery.

I did pickup another suggestion I read somewhere and fully charged it before installing it. I don't know how many of these batteries they move or how long it's been sitting on the shelf. There was one sticker on the battery that has 03/2019 as the ship date or manufacture date. Didn't want to take any chances and start out with a low battery.

So far so good last night and today. I ordered an $88.50 scan tool AUTOPHIX on Amazon that's supposed to do the Battery Registration. It's my understanding from all the reading I've done on here that if original battery was AGM and I replaced it with AGM then I will NOT need to do any coding. Only registration. Just making sure one last time.

Thanks!
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  #39  
Old 08-14-2019, 04:57 PM
ard ard is offline
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Wait. 5:37?????

Are you sure? Could it have been 5:36? Or AM?

It could change EVERYTHING....
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Alignment here: The Definitive Alignment Thread

OE is Original Equipment aka 'BMW Original Parts' aka 'What you buy at the BMW dealer with a BMW label'

OEM is Original Equipment Manufacturer... EITHER the company that made the OE part or.... A part this is identical to the OE part, but is sold by the OEM under their own label


OEM is not what BMW sells


http://www.bimmerzone.com/category/T...ricks_OEM.html

https://www.turnermotorsport.com/t-OEvsOEM
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  #40  
Old 08-14-2019, 05:14 PM
BabyUnicornTaco BabyUnicornTaco is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2010xdrive35d View Post
I nursed the battery along as long as I could. Picked up a new battery last night from Advance. They had the best deal @ $199 with a 25% off when purchased online, you prepay for the core and you get it back when you bring the battery in. Easy swap and it fired up with fastest it ever has since we've owned it anyway. Even though I didn't register the battery I plan to do so Friday. I know this could present some issues especially since the old battery was 6 years old and the alternator was probably putting out the juice to keep it charged, I was between a rock and a hard place when the wife called me at 5:37 and said her car wouldn't start at all. The battery was toast! I figured a couple of days wouldn't do too much harm to the overall life of the battery.

I did pickup another suggestion I read somewhere and fully charged it before installing it. I don't know how many of these batteries they move or how long it's been sitting on the shelf. There was one sticker on the battery that has 03/2019 as the ship date or manufacture date. Didn't want to take any chances and start out with a low battery.

So far so good last night and today. I ordered an $88.50 scan tool AUTOPHIX on Amazon that's supposed to do the Battery Registration. It's my understanding from all the reading I've done on here that if original battery was AGM and I replaced it with AGM then I will NOT need to do any coding. Only registration. Just making sure one last time.

Thanks!


If itís the same type and capacity you donít have to code but you do have to register. If you bought the appropriate Autophix tool then yes, you can register it. I use an Autophix. Cheap but capable. Sent at 8:14pm. Not 8:15pm. .


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  #41  
Old 08-14-2019, 06:24 PM
2010xdrive35d 2010xdrive35d is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ard View Post
Wait. 5:37?????

Are you sure? Could it have been 5:36? Or AM?

It could change EVERYTHING....
yes it could!

That was 5:37PM lol

I tihink I threw that in there and then left out the fact that one of us had to get the kids from daycare that closed @ 6PM. The battery was so dead it wouldn't go into neutral. And I've never used the red handle in the trunk to pop it in neutral so had to get a car moved in order to jump hers. Ugh! Rush rush rush as always.

Last edited by 2010xdrive35d; 08-14-2019 at 06:25 PM.
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  #42  
Old 08-14-2019, 06:25 PM
2010xdrive35d 2010xdrive35d is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BabyUnicornTaco View Post
Sent at 8:14pm. Not 8:15pm. .


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I see what you did there
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  #43  
Old 08-14-2019, 06:28 PM
2010xdrive35d 2010xdrive35d is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BabyUnicornTaco View Post
If it's the same type and capacity you don't have to code but you do have to register.

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When you say same capacity.... are you referring to Ah?

FYI Old battery AGM BMW 850 CA 92Ah
New battery AGM Autocraft 1000 CA 95 Ah

So if it can't just be registered... what do I do now?

Last edited by 2010xdrive35d; 08-14-2019 at 07:43 PM.
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  #44  
Old 08-14-2019, 07:24 PM
twh twh is online now
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2010xdrive35d View Post
When you say same capacity.... are you referring to Ah?

FYI Old battery BMW 850 CA 92Ah
New battery Autocraft 1000 CA 95 Ah

So if it can't just be registered... what do I do now?
You need to determine if the old battery was a flooded type or an AGM type and if the replacement is a flooded type or an AGM type. If they are different types, you also need to change that, it is technically a different step from registering the battery.

There are a number of battery capacities that can be registered. There may not be an exact one to the battery you bought. Choose the closest one and you will be fine.
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  #45  
Old 08-14-2019, 07:43 PM
2010xdrive35d 2010xdrive35d is offline
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Originally Posted by twh View Post
You need to determine if the old battery was a flooded type or an AGM type and if the replacement is a flooded type or an AGM type. If they are different types, you also need to change that, it is technically a different step from registering the battery..
I failed to mention that minor detail

Original was AGM as is the new one. I updated my post accordingly. Thank you for clarifying and thank you for your comment.

Last edited by 2010xdrive35d; 08-14-2019 at 07:44 PM.
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  #46  
Old 08-14-2019, 07:48 PM
BabyUnicornTaco BabyUnicornTaco is offline
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twh got it. Get it registered so it doesnít try to charge the new battery based on the old batteryís performance. If itís a BMW Autophix you can do this.


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  #47  
Old 08-14-2019, 08:30 PM
2010xdrive35d 2010xdrive35d is offline
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Originally Posted by BabyUnicornTaco View Post
If it's a BMW Autophix you can do this.


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Sweet! It is indeed an Autophix.

My wife's trip back and forth to work is 0.9 miles so in this case that might be working for me until I get it registered. Then I won't worry so much about it being given too much charge.

Ordered in on Amazon today with Prime of course so I'll see it Friday.
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  #48  
Old 08-15-2019, 05:36 PM
jon cattletown jon cattletown is offline
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Originally Posted by 2010xdrive35d View Post
Sweet! It is indeed an Autophix.

My wife's trip back and forth to work is 0.9 miles so in this case that might be working for me until I get it registered. Then I won't worry so much about it being given too much charge.

Ordered in on Amazon today with Prime of course so I'll see it Friday.
I DIYed my battery exchange today for my 2013 X5 E70 and would like to share some experience with you. Getting the battery in and set up was not as simply as said by everyone. I mean you may see a few things you don't know what happened. There is no problem to physically swap the battery out, hook up the vent tube, and tighten all the bolts and screws. In my case, when I started the engine after the battery replacement, I immediately saw CEL and 4X4 on dashboard and DSC stability malfunction on Idrive monitor, for which I had no clue. Then I connected my computer to the car to register the battery using ISTA, and I saw a bunch of units with faulty memories including VTG, TRSVC, CA, DME, DSC, EGS, etc., which were not there before the battery change. A guy in youtube said you should take the car for a ride to clear some of the warning signs. So I drove the car for a short distance, which did remove 4X4 and DSC stability malfunction signs but all the others remained. The CEL warning sign resisted to go away, which bugs me the most. Then I hooked up my computer with the car to run the test again. All the faulty memories were still there. I decided to delete all the faulty memories in the system. Amazingly, the CEL warning sign was gone this time. Everything goes back to normal. Hope my experience can offer you assistance in case you run into the same thing as I did. Good luck!
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  #49  
Old 08-15-2019, 06:16 PM
ard ard is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jon cattletown View Post
I DIYed my battery exchange today for my 2013 X5 E70 and would like to share some experience with you. Getting the battery in and set up was not as simply as said by everyone. I mean you may see a few things you don't know what happened. There is no problem to physically swap the battery out, hook up the vent tube, and tighten all the bolts and screws. In my case, when I started the engine after the battery replacement, I immediately saw CEL and 4X4 on dashboard and DSC stability malfunction on Idrive monitor, for which I had no clue. Then I connected my computer to the car to register the battery using ISTA, and I saw a bunch of units with faulty memories including VTG, TRSVC, CA, DME, DSC, EGS, etc., which were not there before the battery change. A guy in youtube said you should take the car for a ride to clear some of the warning signs. So I drove the car for a short distance, which did remove 4X4 and DSC stability malfunction signs but all the others remained. The CEL warning sign resisted to go away, which bugs me the most. Then I hooked up my computer with the car to run the test again. All the faulty memories were still there. I decided to delete all the faulty memories in the system. Amazingly, the CEL warning sign was gone this time. Everything goes back to normal. Hope my experience can offer you assistance in case you run into the same thing as I did. Good luck!
Not a thing amazing about this.

Ive never had codes happen with mine, but know that if the modules 'wake up' and voltages are not nice and stable, you will get a laundry list of error codes. Just clear (as you did)

Congrats! Take the $200 you saved on the battery, and the $???? on the 'diagnostic fee' to read codes...and head out for dinner this weekend!

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Alignment here: The Definitive Alignment Thread

OE is Original Equipment aka 'BMW Original Parts' aka 'What you buy at the BMW dealer with a BMW label'

OEM is Original Equipment Manufacturer... EITHER the company that made the OE part or.... A part this is identical to the OE part, but is sold by the OEM under their own label


OEM is not what BMW sells


http://www.bimmerzone.com/category/T...ricks_OEM.html

https://www.turnermotorsport.com/t-OEvsOEM
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  #50  
Old 08-15-2019, 06:54 PM
BabyUnicornTaco BabyUnicornTaco is offline
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I had my battery disconnected for 46 days. Not 45 . I had the battery on a charger for two days before reconnecting. I had the typical 4x4 DSC warnings that disappear with driving/turning the wheel and every other issue cleared without issue.


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