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F10 / F11 (2011 - 2016)
The sixth generation of the BMW 5 Series Sedan (F10) was produced from 2011 - 2016 with LCI updates arriving in 2014. In the US BMW offered a hatchback 5 Series Gran Truismo (F07) and the rest of the world also go a Station Wagon/Touring version F11.

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  #1  
Old 09-21-2018, 04:41 PM
Lcherrin Lcherrin is offline
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PCV Oil Separator Valve

Hi, I'm trying to find a pair (they are usually sold in pairs) of PCV Oil Separator Valves. I have tried several sites on the web and the search brings back several models of the part, but they all say they will not fit my car, 2011 550i xdrive n63 engine.

I would also like to know the exact part# if possible.

I guess I can try my local BMW parts department if need be.

Any help would be appreciated.
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  #2  
Old 09-21-2018, 06:10 PM
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samadkins29 samadkins29 is offline
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I may be misunderstanding what you are asking for, but the PCV is built into the top valve cover for our F10's. Not serviceable. The entire cover needs to be replaced.
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Old 09-21-2018, 07:14 PM
550iFreak 550iFreak is offline
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^^^hate to say but this is incorrect .

I know this because I replaced my PCV system along with other associated seals on my valve seal job. Highly recommend replacing while you are in there along with vc gaskets and hpfp gaskets.

Ecs tuning is your friend here. Got mines on sale at the time but as of today 09-21-18 they are 90 dollars before shipping.

https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-...e/11158636540/

https://www.ecstuning.com/BMW-F10-55...rch/pcv_valve/

Also, if misunderstood, the same link leads you to the crankcase breather tubes. The ones connects from the VC to the turbo inlet pipe and also connects to the intake manifolds. Held by two pita bolts.

Fcp euro is a good place also for other seals. Bmw dealership was generous to give me their last set of hpfp gaskets for 20 dollars on both sides.

Remember.....the n63 and n63tu uses two different oil separators.

N63 prior 2013 like mines uses the ones that has two tubes sticking out.
N63tus uses a weird crossover pipe and a slimmer profile.

Btw.....anyone wants a set of n63tu oil separators, let me knowwwww. I got them on accident, and didn't bother returning it so it's still new in box and willing to let it go for slightly cheaper .

Last edited by 550iFreak; 09-21-2018 at 07:19 PM.
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Old 09-21-2018, 07:38 PM
Lcherrin Lcherrin is offline
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Thanks for the info

Ok, that explains a lot. Thanks for the links, I'm buying this one:
https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-...e/11158636540/

Have you found any videos to help install this? When I take the unit off, will I be able to check the actual rubber seals? I'm curious to see what kind of shape they are in. I'm actually hoping they are split or torn and that's what's letting oil in to the system and burns out through the exhaust. That's my real issue.
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Old 09-21-2018, 07:54 PM
550iFreak 550iFreak is offline
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I dont find any videos other than the aga tool site on valve seal replacement and they too did not properly show the removal of the covers or whatnot.

I personally did the seals myself, and let me tell you........it sucks lol.

Took around 60ish hours, in turn all week after work and all day sat and sun.

So with this said, here's your answers. No, you may not be able to see your rubber valve seals after just removing the vc. You'll have to physically remove the cams, the rockers, the valve springs and retainers. Then you'll have to remove the seal itself since visual inspection wont be enough to determine their state. Mines was very hard, not flexible at all hence my oil burning issue and smoking.

Removing the vc is labor intensive itself and requires special tools to remove them. You'll have to remove the injectors, hpfps, intercooler, wiring harness, etc etc JUST TO REMOVE THE VC.

and if you dont pay attention, you can screw up the alternator, oil sensor and even your dme if you dont retihhten your wiring harness bolts which acts as a ground.

Dont tell me how I know..........luckily the dme survived. Never making that mistake again lol.

Sorry to hear about the current issue you have. It's very common on n63s, and if you are not remotely close to be some sort of mechanical engineer, top tier wizard of a mechanic, aviation mechanic or equivalent ......

Do not attempt this repair.

If you are though
Newtis on Google is your best friend.
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Old 09-21-2018, 07:59 PM
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samadkins29 samadkins29 is offline
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Ahh sorry guys, was not thinking of the right part.

@op here is the instructions:

https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/f...ion/1VnYTvDYOc
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/f...ion/1VnYOvvJZt

Please note that these are the final steps. You need to click your way back through the "Preliminary Task" sections to find where you start.
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Old 09-21-2018, 08:10 PM
Lcherrin Lcherrin is offline
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Wow, 60 hours. I wouldnít have a clue where to start. I guess Iíll bring it to BMW. Last question, will I be hurting anything if I donít get it replaced in the near future? I donít appear to be going through oil any faster than I have when I bought it. This smoking issue just started maybe a month or 2 ago.


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Old 09-21-2018, 08:26 PM
550iFreak 550iFreak is offline
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Bmw will rape you dry on that procedure.....
And might opt you to just get a new engine...

So either find an indy for a cheaper price or if you have a great warranty, then go to bmw.

There's a class lawsuit in session, hoping for a resolution of this flaw.

You can deal with it but expect oil usage, decreased life on catylitic converters, o2 sensors, accelerated carbon buildup, engine starts to run cruddy after awhile.

And worst of all, the embarrassing smoke show from a sophisticated looking car lol.
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Old 09-22-2018, 07:56 AM
wooramse wooramse is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 550iFreak View Post
Bmw will rape you dry on that procedure.....
And might opt you to just get a new engine...

So either find an indy for a cheaper price or if you have a great warranty, then go to bmw.

There's a class lawsuit in session, hoping for a resolution of this flaw.

You can deal with it but expect oil usage, decreased life on catylitic converters, o2 sensors, accelerated carbon buildup, engine starts to run cruddy after awhile.

And worst of all, the embarrassing smoke show from a sophisticated looking car lol.
Were you able to find any space for the oil catch can on both sides? Is there any reasonable space for it?

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  #10  
Old 10-09-2018, 11:24 AM
BMW550M BMW550M is offline
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Hi,

I have a 2011 550I Xdrive and its smoking pretty bad when I make hard pulls. Theres no jerking, no hesitation on acceleration, no warnings or check engines but I am burning a lot of oil. Maybe about 1 quart every 400-500 miles. I also have a bad leak coming from the rear of the engine, I already replaced the crankshaft seal or housing, leak still persisted. Im guessing the leak is coming from the turbo oil return seal.

Questions:
1. Should I do the valve seal job, I am in a third world country, only 550i here and mechanics are good but not great.
2. What parts, gaskets, need to be replaced when doing the entire job? (Given I need to purchase everything in United States and fly back with all my parts needed for the job)
3. Anything I need to watch out for when doing this job?
4. Do you think if I just do the turbo oil return seal my oil loss may reduce significantly or will it eventually get worse?

Any advice would be of great help!
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