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F10 / F11 (2011 - 2016)
The sixth generation of the BMW 5 Series Sedan (F10) was produced from 2011 - 2016 with LCI updates arriving in 2014. In the US BMW offered a hatchback 5 Series Gran Truismo (F07) and the rest of the world also go a Station Wagon/Touring version F11.

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  #1  
Old 10-19-2018, 07:04 AM
Bozman52 Bozman52 is offline
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Process for removing rear brake calipers- BMW manual has odd instructions

I need to replace my rear pads, and as my 530d has 80k miles on it, I'm sure the rotors will need to be replaced as well. I discovered that the 535d/550i in Europe came with larger rear brakes that will bolt onto a 530d, so I'm just going to completely upgrade the rears and buy new calipers while I'm at it. The ones I have look awful and probably need to be rebuilt anyway.

In the BMW service manual (see PDF attachment), the removal procedure for the rear calipers states that you're supposed to depress the brake pedal and keep it there while you remove the calipers. However, it would seem to me that fluid will come spraying out of the lines, as the system would be pressurised. The manual reads as if the act of depressing the pedal will actually PREVENT fluid from being released, though.

Has anyone done this before who can advise on if I should prepare to be soaked with brake fluid or not?
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Old 10-19-2018, 10:31 AM
geminiys geminiys is offline
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I wouldn't follow the guidelines you have attached. I doubt the rear brakes are different between US and European model F10 besides bigger rotors and potentially pads. I can only speak to US based model.
You do need to address Parking Brakes per other descriptions on the forum. Due to caliper piston been extended with old pads you may experience resistance removing calipers from it's bracket. I have removed bracket and calipers all at once and after all was loose, bracket separated from the caliper easily. The next step is to open brake fluid reservoir and compress the caliper piston back into it's compressed position while watching brake fluid not been spilled from the reservoir. If never added fluid, it shouldn't be a problem. If you did, watch out and remove excessive fluid as you compress the piston. Do that on both sides. Replace rotors, if necessary, put bracket back, and so on.
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Old 10-19-2018, 11:49 AM
3Pedals_6Speeds 3Pedals_6Speeds is offline
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80k miles sounds like extremely low mileage to be replacing calipers at. Why not just hang them out of the way *still connected to the brake line) and replace rotors, then follow geminsys's steps on doing the pads?
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Old 10-20-2018, 02:57 PM
JeffDunes JeffDunes is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 3Pedals_6Speeds View Post
80k miles sounds like extremely low mileage to be replacing calipers at. Why not just hang them out of the way *still connected to the brake line) and replace rotors, then follow geminsys's steps on doing the pads?
It appears he wants to upgrade to a larger setup, otherwise I agree no reason to change at 80k miles unless the calipers are sticking.
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Old 10-22-2018, 01:23 AM
Bozman52 Bozman52 is offline
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Thanks for the replies, fellas. I'm looking to upgrade the brakes, hence the reason for replacing the calipers. I'm not really looking for steps on how to do the brake job, but I'm just specifically interested in what happens when I remove the calipers.

The manual makes it seem like the fluid will not be released from the hoses, but I find that hard to believe. I'm trying to determine if the brake system will be drained by me removing the calipers, of if BMW has devised some way for the fluid to remain in the lines if the brake pedal is engaged, as the instructions say it should be.
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Old 10-22-2018, 02:37 PM
JeffDunes JeffDunes is offline
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When you remove the brake hose from the old caliper just plug up the hose as best as you can (I use an old wooden golf tee and it works perfectly) and you will be fine. You do not want the level of brake fluid in the reservoir to get too low so keep an eye on it and top off if it starts to get too low.
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Old 10-22-2018, 07:16 PM
Glaird Glaird is offline
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With ABS and other Nanny State features on today's cars, I would have a mechanic change a caliper/install new brake setup. Opening those lines, will absolutely lead to the need to flush the fluid, bleed the brake system, replenish fluid in the tank. With the modern intervention systems, depending on vehicle, it is not as easy as; crack nipple, push pedal, squirt fluid, close nipple, raise pedal, repeat as necessary anymore.
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Old 10-26-2018, 12:32 AM
550iFreak 550iFreak is offline
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I completely replace all my brakes in my 550i. I upgraded the fronts to x5M 4 pot brembo (from a 2011 x5m) and refreshed the rears. It isn't hard to do, and basic bleeding procedure is the same as other generic cars.

The rear calipers needs a special tool that will compress and turn the piston in the clockwise position to fully compress the caliper. Autozone rents out the tool when I did mines. I also got a one man bleeder tool that has a one way check valve inside the bottle. I just crack the bleeder, hook up the hose, press the brakes away until it is about full.

My brakes are brutal now ***x1f642;. My original fronts were replaced not too long ago but my rears are junk....even though it stated it was replaced and has 60k miles left on it...........

That was a major lie lol.

Now they are all reset and gives me 60k miles on front and rears....

And since mines a 6 speed manual......this might be the last set of brakes for a long.....long....long time.
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