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E39 (1997 - 2003)
The BMW 5-Series (E39 chassis) was introduced in the United States as a 1997 model year car and lasted until the 2004 when the E60 chassis was released. The United States saw several variations including the 525i, 528i, 530i and 540i. -- View the E39 Wiki

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  #1  
Old 06-13-2019, 06:25 PM
TAHOEBLUE15 TAHOEBLUE15 is online now
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Electronic Issue Please Help!!!!

I just bought a 528i 2000 e39, this is my 3rd one, m52TU engine 2.8l rwd auto 5spd prefacelift 189,200 miles,

Im having huge issues with the interior functions, main problem AC CLUTCH will no longer engage after changing fuse 75 & 76 40 amp and 50amp fuse before changing the fuses the clutch would engage but the aux fan would not ever engage with ac selected but would engage when engine temp reached a certain level know nothing engages after changing those fuses
To change those fuses u have to disconnect gen module 3 to give ur hand space to put fuses back after disconnecting the module and reconnecting everything including the battery upon start up the CLUSTER WONT TURN ON OR RUN AT ALL nor will the AC at all but the CCU lights up and functions properly before all this the cluster would work it has a out of box two day old ignition switch that i know works so idk and the ac and heater blows no air at all I found a buddy and used his USED FSU but that did nothing before changing out the fan and blower fuses im about ready to send it to the moon btw rear windows driver door module steering wheel tailgate latch and driver seat have no functionality making me think the gen 3 is done fori really LOVE THE CAR THO
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  #2  
Old 06-13-2019, 06:29 PM
TAHOEBLUE15 TAHOEBLUE15 is online now
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Also i put the 40 amp fuse in front of the 50amp fuse because the diagram is not clear on which is 75 or 76 if someone could clear this up for me that would be great i watched a video on youtube but his 75&76 were side by side mine are in a dual fuse box bot side by side so im not sure whoch one goes in first the 50 amp or the 40amp
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  #3  
Old 06-14-2019, 12:21 PM
JimLev JimLev is online now
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Did you let the car modules all go to sleep (16 min) before you disconnected the battery?
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  #4  
Old 06-14-2019, 12:50 PM
TAHOEBLUE15 TAHOEBLUE15 is online now
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No what exactly does that do, ive never heard of that before??
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  #5  
Old 06-14-2019, 12:53 PM
TAHOEBLUE15 TAHOEBLUE15 is online now
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Originally Posted by JimLev View Post
Did you let the car modules all go to sleep (16 min) before you disconnected the battery?
not familiar with the website lol^
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Old 06-14-2019, 04:13 PM
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Originally Posted by JimLev View Post
Did you let the car modules all go to sleep (16 min) before you disconnected the battery?
How would you recommend fixing this????
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Old 06-14-2019, 05:05 PM
edjack edjack is online now
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If you did not wait 16 min before disconnecting the battery, you may have scrambled one or more modules.

Wake the car up (open the boot) and let it go to sleep (16 min, the trunk lights will go out). Disconnect the negative terminal of the battery and let the car set for an hour or so. Reconnect, and observe the results.

Report back.

75 (50 A, aux fan) is the left-most, and 76 (40 A, HVAC blower) is beside it.
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Last edited by edjack; 06-14-2019 at 05:12 PM.
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  #8  
Old 06-14-2019, 05:11 PM
TAHOEBLUE15 TAHOEBLUE15 is online now
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Originally Posted by edjack View Post
If you did not wait 16 min before disconnecting the battery, you may have scrambled one or more modules.

Wake the car up (open the boot) and let it go to sleep (16 min, the trunk lights will go out). Disconnect the negative terminal of the battery and let the car set for an hour or so. Reconnect, and observe the results.

Report back.

Thanks for responding, ill follow your directions take it for a nice spin (with no working cluster) ill come home wait 20 mins for car to shut off/sleep with trunk and passenger door open, once its asleep disconnect battery wait two hours reconnect see what happens

I will also check the voltage coming from the fuse box and cluster any suggestions?
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  #9  
Old 06-15-2019, 02:25 PM
TAHOEBLUE15 TAHOEBLUE15 is online now
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Originally Posted by edjack View Post
If you did not wait 16 min before disconnecting the battery, you may have scrambled one or more modules.

Wake the car up (open the boot) and let it go to sleep (16 min, the trunk lights will go out). Disconnect the negative terminal of the battery and let the car set for an hour or so. Reconnect, and observe the results.

Report back.

75 (50 A, aux fan) is the left-most, and 76 (40 A, HVAC blower) is beside it.

So i followed your directions and know nothing works at all no windows no ac panel illumination or functionality no air blowing through vents no wipers no seat adjustment no the cluster also doesnt work nothing works know at all
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  #10  
Old 06-15-2019, 02:25 PM
TAHOEBLUE15 TAHOEBLUE15 is online now
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I can drive the car tho as long as gas is in it lol
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  #11  
Old Yesterday, 12:35 PM
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I got all the functions of general module 3 back after letting the battery stay connected all day and not driving it???? Still no cluster and the ac panel is back on and functioning still no acclutch engages like it did before when ac is selected what i really need is my damn cluster to function???? CAN ANY BODY HELP ME
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  #12  
Old Yesterday, 12:37 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by edjack View Post
If you did not wait 16 min before disconnecting the battery, you may have scrambled one or more modules.

Wake the car up (open the boot) and let it go to sleep (16 min, the trunk lights will go out). Disconnect the negative terminal of the battery and let the car set for an hour or so. Reconnect, and observe the results

Report back.

75 (50 A, aux fan) is the left-most, and 76 (40 A, HVAC blower) is beside it.

Please respond back
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  #13  
Old Yesterday, 01:04 PM
528iAut 528iAut is offline
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Was the cluster ever working?
What is your battery voltage?
Get a code reader.....
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  #14  
Old Yesterday, 05:18 PM
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Originally Posted by 528iAut View Post
Was the cluster ever working?
What is your battery voltage?
Get a code reader.....
There are zero codes cluster was working fine until the radio went dead?? Took the fuses out for radio then it worked amazing for a week decided to do some ac repairs unhooked battery and upon reconnecting the battery nothing on the ic workings i have 12.46 volts with out the car running at the battery took all fuses out today ine by one except fuses for ic and still got nothing even tried replacing ic with a known working used that didnt even work
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Old Today, 01:06 AM
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voltage at the battery WITH the car running..

standing voltage is about the battery..

we need to know about the charging system
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  #16  
Old Today, 01:07 AM
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I got the battery tested at oriellys the battery is fine and the alternator
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  #17  
Old Today, 01:09 AM
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Originally Posted by Burning2nd View Post
voltage at the battery WITH the car running..

standing voltage is about the battery..

we need to know about the charging system
there has to be a short somewhere
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  #18  
Old Today, 11:07 AM
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Originally Posted by Burning2nd View Post
voltage at the battery WITH the car running..

standing voltage is about the battery..

we need to know about the charging system
My obd2 reader has super glue all over it from the past owner im guessing this is causing the cluster and kbus to miscommunicate shorting out the wires
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  #19  
Old Today, 12:47 PM
528iAut 528iAut is offline
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Glue is not conductive, cant see your picture so I dont know what it looks like.
You just said cluster was working until the radio went dead?
Cant follow you...
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  #20  
Old Today, 12:49 PM
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How do you check the obd2 for proper voltage with a multimeter and if my obd2 is shorting out could this cause my cluster to work
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  #21  
Old Today, 12:50 PM
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Originally Posted by 528iAut View Post
Glue is not conductive, cant see your picture so I dont know what it looks like.
You just said cluster was working until the radio went dead?
Cant follow you...

How do you check the obd2 for proper voltage with a multimeter and if my obd2 is shorting out could this cause my cluster to not work
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