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E63 / E64 6 Series (2004 - 2010)
The E63/E64 BMW 6 Series builds on BMW's sporty heritage with aggressive lines and an incredible motor to back the design up. Available in coupe and convertible trims with a standard 4.8 liter engine producing 360 horsepower and 360 lb-ft of torque, the 6-series is a popular choice that exceeds expectations.

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  #1  
Old 12-29-2019, 03:01 AM
Muzzman Muzzman is offline
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Active Steering Fault - i have tried various things to resolve

I bought a 630i manual from a guy about 6 weeks ago that buys and sells cars, has a website etc. 63000 miles on the clock FSH and 2 previous owners.

I drive it rarely and have done probably under 200 miles. 70 of those bring it home.

About a week ago I had the Active Steering Fault come up.

A couple of things that could have a bearing.

a) I had a new tyre put in and steering alignment done a Kwik Fit. This was about 50 miles ago.

b) The guy fitted a new battery just before I bought it.

I have therefore tried/ looked at the following:

1) I used INPA and Tool32 to check that the battery type was correct. It was set to 110Ah which was correct so I just registered the battery. - No luck

2) I reset the error codes, the following is showing DME/DDE CD97 54. - any idea what this means? I have two other errors but thought this was most relevant.

3) I turned the ignition onto second click, turned the wheel full left and then full right, recentered, turned off engine, waited 10 seconds, turned on again - No luck.

4) Check power steering fluid level, just above max and it was a green colour so assume the correct type was used.

Is the next step to dismantle the steering and clean the sensor? I am slightly weary about this as I have very little experience of dismantling cars.

Anything else I can try?

Thanks from a newbie, hope the information is sufficient.
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  #2  
Old 12-29-2019, 04:02 AM
J306TD J306TD is online now
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Surely you've got some kind of warranty from the seller?

I'm sure they have to give you 3 months minimum. But some dodgy places will write 'trade only' to get out of this

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Last edited by J306TD; 12-29-2019 at 04:05 AM.
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Old 12-29-2019, 07:18 AM
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645/333 645/333 is offline
Michael
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To reset the steering to you have to move from full lock to full lock a few times to reset with engine running. If you have not been using the car and not putting it on a battery charger to trickle charge, then you could have run down the battery to the point where it has insufficient charge. A poor battery on these cars will lend its self to all manner of random failures, they are so battery critical.
If you want to make the car reliable then really look after the battery, bizzare but so true. I believe that a poor battery management lends itself to causing other components to fail. As you are learning about the car read up the thousands of threads on the battery and associated components. IVM etc. Also look at transmission reset and the like. many forget these cars learn the driving profile of the driver and adjust accordingly, doing a reset resets the memory especially the transmission.
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Last edited by 645/333; 12-29-2019 at 07:25 AM.
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Old 12-29-2019, 12:04 PM
HerbP HerbP is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Muzzman View Post
I bought a 630i manual from a guy about 6 weeks ago that buys and sells cars, has a website etc. 63000 miles on the clock FSH and 2 previous owners.

I drive it rarely and have done probably under 200 miles. 70 of those bring it home.

About a week ago I had the Active Steering Fault come up.

A couple of things that could have a bearing.

a) I had a new tyre put in and steering alignment done a Kwik Fit. This was about 50 miles ago.

b) The guy fitted a new battery just before I bought it.

I have therefore tried/ looked at the following:

1) I used INPA and Tool32 to check that the battery type was correct. It was set to 110Ah which was correct so I just registered the battery. - No luck

2) I reset the error codes, the following is showing DME/DDE CD97 54. - any idea what this means? I have two other errors but thought this was most relevant.

3) I turned the ignition onto second click, turned the wheel full left and then full right, recentered, turned off engine, waited 10 seconds, turned on again - No luck.

4) Check power steering fluid level, just above max and it was a green colour so assume the correct type was used.

Is the next step to dismantle the steering and clean the sensor? I am slightly weary about this as I have very little experience of dismantling cars.

Anything else I can try?

Thanks from a newbie, hope the information is sufficient.
If you look at the Sticky on the main page for the 6 Series forum, you will see about every way possible to register the battery, find the one using INPA. IF the person that aligned the car did not have the proper software for a BMW, the steering angle is probably off. If his alignment rack can not account for this, tie the steering wheel down straight, & leave the engine running. This will keep the steering set properly.

If you have run your battery down, you will get a steering angle warning until you turn the steering wheel back & forth 3 times, with the engine running. Once you drive a few hundred feet, the problem should clear. Try all of the things mentioned before you pulled the steering sensor. If it was working before the alignment, it should be ok.
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Old 12-30-2019, 01:14 AM
Muzzman Muzzman is offline
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Originally Posted by HerbP View Post
IF the person that aligned the car did not have the proper software for a BMW, the steering angle is probably off. If his alignment rack can not account for this, tie the steering wheel down straight, & leave the engine running. This will keep the steering set properly.

If you have run your battery down, you will get a steering angle warning until you turn the steering wheel back & forth 3 times, with the engine running. Once you drive a few hundred feet, the problem should clear. Try all of the things mentioned before you pulled the steering sensor. If it was working before the alignment, it should be ok.
Thanks for this. When you say tie steering wheel down and leave the engine running are you refering to when the steel alignment is done? I saw they clamped the steering wheel down. The guy did have to get his colleague over as he was getting 'odd' readings. The car was switched off.

I have run the battery down and had to jump start the car so i will try turning the wheel lock to lock three times with engine running.

Just to add, the car seems to drive fine
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Old 12-30-2019, 01:16 AM
Muzzman Muzzman is offline
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Originally Posted by 645/333 View Post
To reset the steering to you have to move from full lock to full lock a few times to reset with engine running. If you have not been using the car and not putting it on a battery charger to trickle charge, then you could have run down the battery to the point where it has insufficient charge. A poor battery on these cars will lend its self to all manner of random failures, they are so battery critical.
If you want to make the car reliable then really look after the battery, bizzare but so true. I believe that a poor battery management lends itself to causing other components to fail. As you are learning about the car read up the thousands of threads on the battery and associated components. IVM etc. Also look at transmission reset and the like. many forget these cars learn the driving profile of the driver and adjust accordingly, doing a reset resets the memory especially the transmission.
I did have to jump the car and was getting battery errors prior to this, that's when i decided to register the battery and haven't had the battery light come up again. I have bought a solar powered trickle charger as i park the car on my drive. It's English winter so i'm not sure how effective it will be.
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Old 12-30-2019, 06:47 AM
Muzzman Muzzman is offline
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3 times lock to lock with the engine on then driving 100yds didn't work. Now got an Engine Management Light too which is a new one on me. Also a battery charging error came on.

Maybe time to buy a multimeter?

Last edited by Muzzman; 12-30-2019 at 06:49 AM.
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Old 12-30-2019, 07:19 AM
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Did you fully charge the battery first??? If not then do this first, unless the battery is now so dead it will not hold a full charge. As mentioned even small variances in voltage create issue, Cannot stress enough about the battery condition on these cars!!!
Start here first don't dive in until you know you have a good battery!!! Remember you need and AGM type battery with the correct amper/hour rating!
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Last edited by 645/333; 12-30-2019 at 07:22 AM.
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Old 12-30-2019, 09:04 AM
Muzzman Muzzman is offline
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Originally Posted by 645/333 View Post
Did you fully charge the battery first??? If not then do this first, unless the battery is now so dead it will not hold a full charge. As mentioned even small variances in voltage create issue, Cannot stress enough about the battery condition on these cars!!!
Start here first don't dive in until you know you have a good battery!!! Remember you need and AGM type battery with the correct amper/hour rating!
I left the car running for 30 mins then went for a 10 minute drive before i did it, not sure if that's enough. I will go round my father inlaws tomorrow and get my battery charger back off him and charge the battery fully. I know it's 110Ah battery, i'll check to see what else i can assertain.

The battery is apparently new according to the dealer. I have registered it using tool32 after checking it was set as the right rating using INPA.

I am now more concerned about the quite severe vibration when idling and the fact that when i accelerate now it is quite jolty, i also think i can detect a knocking noise from the back of the block that i didn't before the Engine Management Light came on.
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Old 12-30-2019, 11:20 AM
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i am afraid that running the car will not help in this instance, a full battery charge overnight to capacity will set the bench mark. The electronics on these cars are very fickle if the battery is not in top condition. As I mentioned just read the posts not all, about the battery. I have the latest 6 series and still look after the battery. So if your car is not going to be a daily driver, then trickle charge is necessary. Even though the battery is new if it has been allowed to run down to zero this will potentially be an issue, plus you might as well learn now ! Nothing is cheap on these cars, putting cheap batteries in will seldom work. Hopefully a long charging cycle will recover the battery if it is comparatively new. Once done start from there, do the steering reset etc. As HerbP mentioned, hopefully they have done setup correctly. Find yourself a decent independent, with the correct tools and test tools.
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Old 12-30-2019, 11:33 AM
Muzzman Muzzman is offline
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Thanks, this is my battery, does it look the right type?

And i need to charge it from the points under the bonnet, that's correct?

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Last edited by Muzzman; 12-30-2019 at 11:37 AM.
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Old 12-30-2019, 11:42 AM
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As much as I can see it is a BMW battery, it can have the year of manufacture on it so then you can see if it is relatively new??? What year is your car? plus they don't have the 630 in the States, but have to say that the engine is pretty well bullet proof if looked after, check its MOT history just for knowledge!
Realised you said manual so you cannot do a transmission reset, there are other things you can do, but you will have to do a bit of digging to find!!
Since you are new to the forum there are some really knowledgeable guys willing to help Hsurf, HerbP and many others, it is probably the best forum around and they don't take crap if you get my drift.
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Last edited by 645/333; 12-30-2019 at 11:45 AM.
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Old 12-30-2019, 12:06 PM
Muzzman Muzzman is offline
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Thanks, it's a 2005 car. I will charge the battery tomorrow night and take things from there.
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Old 12-30-2019, 01:48 PM
HerbP HerbP is offline
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I suspect that you battery is so low on voltage, that the engine can not run properly. Once the voltage gets below 12 volts, the engine will spit & sputter, & also turn off. I think you are way below 12 volts. I would charge the battery for a good 24 hours, then wipe all of your codes. Hopefully everything will be good once the battery is above 12 volts. The 2005 came with a lead cell battery, I don't know if you upgraded to the AGM. There is a place in Tools32 to change to the AGM if you have not done that. If you have ISTA, it can be done much easier in one program, as it is the newer BMW platform software. You can measure your voltage at the jump terminal with a VOM if you want to see where the battery voltage is? Turn the ignition on without cranking the engine, & turn the headlights on. Then measure the voltage, it should be above 12 volts.
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Old 12-30-2019, 02:20 PM
Muzzman Muzzman is offline
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Apologies if this is a daft question but should I be charging via the connectors in the engine bay, direct to the battery in the boot or remove the battery completely from the car?

My garage is currently full of stuff as e recently moved house so I will have to run the charger from the garage to the car outside.

Thanks for all your assistance with this.
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Old 12-30-2019, 02:47 PM
Muzzman Muzzman is offline
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Fyi I have just ordered an AGM battery charger on Amazon so will need to wait for this to be delivered. I was unaware that my normal charger wouldnt do the trick
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Old 12-30-2019, 05:59 PM
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I did something similar to this arrangement:
https://www.meeknet.co.uk/e64/Timms_...n_the_Boot.htm

http://www.meeknet.co.uk/E64/TIS_Rou...20Charging.pdf
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Old 12-30-2019, 08:01 PM
HerbP HerbP is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Muzzman View Post
Apologies if this is a daft question but should I be charging via the connectors in the engine bay, direct to the battery in the boot or remove the battery completely from the car?

My garage is currently full of stuff as e recently moved house so I will have to run the charger from the garage to the car outside.

Thanks for all your assistance with this.
Charge the battery from the jump terminal under the hood.
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Old 01-04-2020, 02:47 AM
Muzzman Muzzman is offline
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So i've charged the battery for 30 hours, it is now reading 100% and when the engine is off reading 12.7V. It is definitely an AGM battery, i looked up the BMW part code on the battery S: 61216818062, i charged the battery using AGM setting. It has a date on it of 11/12/18

I took the car for a short drive, pulled over, turned the wheel left to right three times then centred and drove 100yds, the active steering error did not go off, i also noticed that at full lock the car dips, is this normal?

Also when i turn the car on the engine sounds normal but one warmed up there is a serious knocking/ clacking noise from the rear of the block and under acceleration it shudders.

I saved the ECU error codes after the drive and also after i cleared the errors using INPA, if posting the file would be helpful then let me know.

Any other suggestions would be greatly appreciated. I will check to see if the setting has been changed to AGM, the ECU was update to show 110 so i'd assume so but you never know.

I am beginning to feel a rather heafty bills coming up. Does anyone know a good honest specialist in Essex, UK?

Last edited by Muzzman; 01-04-2020 at 03:25 AM.
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Old 01-04-2020, 04:54 PM
HerbP HerbP is offline
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the DME/DDE CD97 54 code is for the active steering fault. I would take it back to the person that did the alignment, & have them align the car with the engine on. Tie the steering wheel down straight. If they have a computer alignment rack, their system should show everything on the alignment sheet when done.

As far as the other codes, post them where we can see them. Did the car run like this before you purchased the car. The AGM should be entered into tools32, but it will not bother anything. Try unplugging the MAF sensor, & see if the engine runs better? If it does idle better, it will be lacking some power this way, but should run smooth going down the road. Lets start here, & see if we make progress.
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Old 01-05-2020, 12:23 PM
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I've seen on another forum or two that kwik fit have issues when it comes to aligning these cars, ATS seems work well but that's the larger Euromaster centres, not sure about the smaller ones.
Beleive it or not I had mine done at a toyota dealership and they had no problems .
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Old 01-05-2020, 12:36 PM
Muzzman Muzzman is offline
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In regards to the car running very lumpy it actually ran really well and i did a 230 mile round trip to the Cotswolds with no issues. I got a mate of mine that works on /restores classic BMW's to have a listen today and his opinion is that it is not running on all cylinders and could be a plug, coil pack or injector, this will also cause the gearbox to clatter (the clatter goes away when you press in the clutch). As for the active steering that is not really his thing so doesn't know anything about that.

Now onto the saga of the active steering. I took it back to cowboys that did the alignment, what a mess!! They use the Hunter alignment machine if anyone is familiar with that.

I got them to realign with the engine on and the wheel tied down. I reset the error codes and did the turning the wheel three times and still no luck.

Attached are the alignment readings.

Firstly note that they set it originally as a non active steering car. The image titled 'After original alignment' is what they gave me after the alignment, they said that you couldn't adjust rear camber on an e63.

The image titled 'Actual after orig alignment' are the readings after they put the car back on the machine today with the engine on, as you can see the readings are all over the place.

The image titled 'Latest alignment' shows the readings as they are now. I would have thought steer ahead should be 0 degrees but apparently it's within tolerance.

I did note that on the first round ACC was adjusted on the second round ACC wasn't adjusted, not sure if that is significant.

Kwik Fit say the next thing to do would be to visit their 'Master Mechanic' in Chelmsford, i'm not convinced.
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Last edited by Muzzman; 01-05-2020 at 12:38 PM.
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Old 01-05-2020, 12:42 PM
Muzzman Muzzman is offline
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Originally Posted by Hsurf View Post
I've seen on another forum or two that kwik fit have issues when it comes to aligning these cars, ATS seems work well but that's the larger Euromaster centres, not sure about the smaller ones.
Beleive it or not I had mine done at a toyota dealership and they had no problems .
I may have to bite the bullet, and take it somewhere else and take a hit on the 96 that Kwik Fit charged me. That irks me so badly though!!!

I take it BMW themselves do alignment, is it worth just going to them and getting on with my life?
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Old 01-05-2020, 02:09 PM
HerbP HerbP is offline
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FYI this is the procedure. I don't think INPA will do this, but possible. You will have what you need shortly, & we will sort this out. If you had a misfire, you would be getting some type of fault. This could be seen with an OBD2 meter very easily.

The service function Commissioning/Adjusting active steering must be run during or after the following work:

axle alignment/wheel alignment (see Note)

work on the steering column

after replacing or programming the active steering control unit (AL)

after replacing or programming the steering column switch (SZL): only E60/E61/63/64

after replacing the steering column switching centre (SZL): only E90/91

Note:

Adjustment of the active front steering must be carried out:
Before adjustment work on the front axle/steering
after all mechanical work on the steering system
after the battery has been disconnected or electrical plug connections on the steering column switch cluster have been disconnected
after replacement/programming or coding of the following components:
Steering column switch cluster
DSC control unit
Active front steering control unit
ARS control unit

Connect vehicle to BMW diagnosis system.
Select and carry out initial operation/adjustment for active front steering under Service functions.


Note:
Only perform axle alignment/wheel alignment if:

- The diagnosis of the active steering leads to no defect (fault entry) and there is a deviation in the position of the steering wheel

- The guided troubleshooting on fault entry 'active steering' concludes with the with defect 'Wheel alignment'

- Repair measures are carried out that make axle alignment/wheel alignment necessary (see corresponding repair instructions)



replacing or programming the Dynamic Stability Control (DSC)

after replacing the steering gear

The sequence for Commissioning/Adjustment in the service function is as follows:

- Default setting of the cumulative steering angle sensor exactly to zero for any axle alignment/wheel alignment. Choice of calling up (see Note)

- Reset the engine location angle (AL)

- Run a steering-angle sensor adjustment (E60/61/63/64: SZL, E90/91: DSC)

- Clear SZL fault code memory: only E60/61/63/64

- Clear DSC fault code memory

- Calibrate the engine location angle (AL)

- If ARS is included as an option, clear the value for steering angle (ARS): only E60/61/63/64

- Clear AL fault code memory

- Calibrate total steering angle offset (AL): only E60/61/63/64 from 09/2005 and E90/91 after replacement of the steering gear

Last edited by HerbP; 01-05-2020 at 02:17 PM.
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Old 01-05-2020, 02:14 PM
HerbP HerbP is offline
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32 00 Wheel Alignment E63 / E64 Series
Observe test conditions!
Front axle:
Total toe 0 10' 12'
Adjustment* total toe 0 10' 4'
Toe difference** single wheel between left/ right max. 12'
Camber (difference between left/right max. 30') - 12' 30'
Adjustment* camber - 12' 25'
Toe angle difference (difference between left/right max. 30')
- with 20 lock on inside wheel - 1 54' 30'
Caster (difference between left/right max. 30')
Front wheel displacement 0 15'
Maximum wheel lock
- Inside wheel 41 14'
- Outside wheel 32 11'
Rear axle:
Total toe 0 18' 12'
Adjustment* total toe 0 18' 4'
Camber (difference between left/right max. 15') -2 25'
Adjustment* camber -2 05'
Geometrical axis deviation 0 12'
*Note: To minimize adjusting errors (measuring inaccuracies), use a narrower tolerance for adjustment.
**Note: Toe difference front axle = criterion for steering wheel inclination
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