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  #26  
Old 02-02-2015, 08:30 PM
wilt wilt is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 3L6 View Post
This lead, as well as the larger one next to it are connected to the battery (in the trunk) as follows:
Attachment 490343
Where did you get the diagram? Was there a legend explaining each of the numbered points?

I have my CTEK cable literally connected at the nuts holding the car's terminals onto the battery posts! If the car puts 14v to those points, too, via the cable harness that runs from the underhood jump points, I see no reason why I cannot do the same thing...send 14V from a CTEK maintainer skipping the cable harness! After all, if BMW put the battery in the engine comparment (rather than in the trunk) effectively it's the same thing.

After getting fdriller's reply to my inquiry, I looked under the hood, and I actually think connecting in the trunk has less opportunity for accidental fatfingered shorts caused while connecting a 'permanent' CTEK cable.


BTW, CTEK offers a charging product which is designed to take solar/wind generated electricity as inputs, and control charging of a 12v battery in a boat.

Last edited by wilt; 02-02-2015 at 08:34 PM.
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  #27  
Old 02-03-2015, 04:42 AM
dmatre dmatre is offline
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Solar Trickle Charger connection in trunk

You can do what you like, but BMW specifically recommends against this. And you think they did so (in both the owners manual and service manual) just to make you move the connection now that you've got it wired in?

I paid the price for not reading the manual and connecting in the trunk. Didn't know better. You have the advantage of having been properly informed...

Obviously you're more informed than the IE's who have designed the electrical/charging system, so go right ahead.

Last edited by dmatre; 02-03-2015 at 04:48 AM.
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  #28  
Old 07-18-2015, 07:35 PM
3L6 3L6 is offline
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Update

After testing my initial set up and contacting battery tender, they told me that my solar cells were not large enough to work with their controller, so I returned the controller and got the battery tender solar charger/tender with built in controller. It fit nicely on the rear deck and I used the alligator clips to connect it directly to the battery terminals- just for testing. Since February, I have not had a single "discharge" message or alarm and no problems, and I even had my commute shorten from 2 miles down to 1.6 miles (changed jobs after 19+ years). Next, I plan to hard wire it onto the back end of the cable shown in the earlier part of this discussion, as I believe this is the same as connecting under the hood and also connects directly to the positive terminal through this cable. I wouldn't jump start the car using any connection in the trunk, but the trick charge connections are the same as connecting under the hood.... and I've had no issues during testing the same- but now need to clean up the wiring and connections to make it "proper".
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  #29  
Old 07-19-2015, 09:38 PM
wilt wilt is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wilt View Post
Where did you get the diagram? Was there a legend explaining each of the numbered points?

I have my CTEK cable literally connected at the nuts holding the car's terminals onto the battery posts! If the car puts 14v to those points, too, via the cable harness that runs from the underhood jump points, I see no reason why I cannot do the same thing...send 14V from a CTEK maintainer skipping the cable harness! After all, if BMW put the battery in the engine comparment (rather than in the trunk) effectively it's the same thing.

After getting fdriller's reply to my inquiry, I looked under the hood, and I actually think connecting in the trunk has less opportunity for accidental fatfingered shorts caused while connecting a 'permanent' CTEK cable.


BTW, CTEK offers a charging product which is designed to take solar/wind generated electricity as inputs, and control charging of a 12v battery in a boat.
Update: I have since CHANGED how I connect the Ctek...I removed the wires to the battery posts in the trunk, because a direct connection bypasses the IBC so that it has no idea that any supplemental charge is being put into the battery! A supplemental jump connection does NOT apply a full charge to the battery in the trunk, it merely momentarily supplements the amount of current so that the starter car crank the enginer and then it is DISCONNECTED after a short period of time, so any bypass of the IBC is inconsequential.

Last edited by wilt; 07-19-2015 at 09:41 PM.
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  #30  
Old 07-20-2015, 04:09 AM
3L6 3L6 is offline
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That's my thinking too, although I plan to connect to the end of the cable near the battery rather than the battery terminal bolts/nuts because the red doors get in the way and cannot be closed.

Another note. I've been using the parked car automatic vent timer/program and still don't get a discharge alarm when the solar charger is connected!
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  #31  
Old 07-20-2015, 07:33 AM
CALWATERBOY DUE CALWATERBOY DUE is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fdriller9 View Post
I do the same.

I have a ctek tender and keep the eye hooks mounted to the positive jumper terminal and to the ground post by the fender.

I really only use it when I go away on a trip though.

EDIT: Yea I just looked at the specs for that 5W solar tender.

It has a 270 mA output. MILLIAMP! Tenders typically trickle charger at around 2-4 amps. Fast charge is about 15 amps. Rapid charge is around 40 amps. Engine start is around 200 amps.

If you compare this solar panel tender to a normal AC powered tender outputting 4 amps, this solar tender will take about 15 times as long to charge the battery versus the AC powered tender.

Au contraire, fdriller9!
270 mA will charge the battery just fine, so long as voltage is sufficient.

Might take a few months....a year....OP should be prepared for that.

And see here OP - that idea of wiring to the trunk lamp is bogus! See, the lamp's OFF when the trunk lid's closed, complicating battery charging there.
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  #32  
Old 07-20-2015, 07:35 AM
CALWATERBOY DUE CALWATERBOY DUE is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wilt View Post
I have my CTEK cable literally connected at the nuts....

Can you post pics? I tried that - didn't go well.
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  #33  
Old 07-20-2015, 07:39 AM
CALWATERBOY DUE CALWATERBOY DUE is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 3L6 View Post
Because I often take short trips (commute), my battery sometimes does not get a full recharge after starting, even after warming up the vehicle. I researched this, and it is normal. The solution is to connect a trickle charger.

Indeed, but most people don't know, there's more to it than simply running current backwards. See, a simple trickle of current from solar cells don' even begin to make it. Read up - you'll see!
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  #34  
Old 07-20-2015, 10:05 AM
3L6 3L6 is offline
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I have no intentions of connecting to the lamp harness. I will connect to the battery harness (connection 8-9-12, shown below) that leads to the front of the car (leading to the normal jump start/trickle charge contacts), eliminating the need to wire from the back to the front.


Apparently the solar charger (w/built in controller) will make it, since it has eliminated the alarm and has not created any other problems. I do drive it longer distances on occasion, but no differently than when I was having the discharge alarm (before installing the solar charger). The charger is doing exactly what it is meant to do.
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  #35  
Old 01-06-2017, 05:02 AM
B5A6F30 B5A6F30 is offline
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3L6, sorry to resurrect an old thread. I'm looking to do something similar to an F30 and am curious about the how your solution has worked long term. Did you stay with hooking up to the battery in the trunk? Also do you disconnect the charger before you drive out and reconnect when you park?
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  #36  
Old 01-06-2017, 03:01 PM
3L6 3L6 is offline
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It has worked great. I connected it directly to the actual battery terminals (not the monitoring "box" mounted on the battery), using eyelets placed under the nuts on the terminals, positioned so that the small hatch over the terminal can be closed. I strung the wires behind the carpeted panels in the trunk, to the roof of the trunk and around the front side of the rear deck to the top of the deck where the solar charger sits in the rear window, laying flat, stringing the wire through peel-and-stick cable tie mounts. I placed the charger on a grey towel to keep it from sliding around, and it matches my interior nicely. Since then, I rarely get any battery discharge messages/alarms unless I have it in the garage with the doors open or the lights on for a period of time. If parked outside, even with short trips, it has no problems. It stays connected all the time, and I never have to touch it. I use the battery-tender solar charger with built in controller. I hope this helps.
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  #37  
Old 01-13-2017, 06:35 AM
tommy335-635 tommy335-635 is offline
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Any any thought to the trickle chargers that plug into your cigarette lighter? Thanks


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  #38  
Old 01-13-2017, 06:41 AM
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Zooks527 Zooks527 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tommy335-635 View Post
Any any thought to the trickle chargers that plug into your cigarette lighter? Thanks
They'll get you nowhere. The lighter socket is switched, and it goes offline 3 to 20 minutes after you shut down your car.
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  #39  
Old 01-13-2017, 06:42 AM
tommy335-635 tommy335-635 is offline
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Yes good point. How about for older models?


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  #40  
Old 01-13-2017, 10:00 AM
3L6 3L6 is offline
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coincidentally...

Two days ago the weather was poor, cold, cloudy, and dark for 2 days and I had a few small trips to make around town. The battery message popped up, but I'm not worried at all. I reset the time and date, had to run to the next town via the highway to pick something up, the sun came out, and all is well. I've run the solar charger for a while now, and these conditions/weather are the only times I get a temporary alert.
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