(35d) Replacing Throttle / Battery Drain Issue - Bimmerfest - BMW Forums



Go Back   Bimmerfest - BMW Forums > BMW Model Discussions > X Series > X5 E70 (2007 - 2013)

X5 E70 (2007 - 2013)
E70 BMW X5 produced between 2007 and 2013. Discuss the E70 X5 with other BMW owners here.

Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
  #1  
Old 04-20-2018, 04:49 PM
onlyscotch onlyscotch is offline
Registered User
Location: Seattle, WA
 
Join Date: Apr 2018
Posts: 14
Mein Auto: 2010 E70 X5 35d
(35d) Replacing Throttle / Battery Drain Issue

Hi all - just purchased a 2010 x5 35d last week (95k, up to date on service minus transmission & transfer case 75k). Thanks already - I've been working through some existing issues and reading through info here has been a massive help!

e.g. I immediately discovered that my engine compartment partition was absolutely disintegrated - literally touching the rubber will break a piece off (see attached - it was so bad I had to take it off because it was falling into the engine bay). After finding the sticky parts are already on the way - crossing my fingers that the injectors are ok. It had been sitting on a lot in the Seattle area all winter which means there was no shortage of water :/ The car came from CA, looks like a hot part, because there is lots of heat tempered rubber plastic, even some minor melts in interior pieces. Given what is following, I'm somewhat concerned that the car living in extreme heat means there is some wiring harness/junction/module that is melted somewhere causing electrical ghosts.

Otherwise, I had the car "purchase" inspected at a good shop locally, but I'm hunting down a battery drain issue that they were hesitant to dive into further as they are currently swamped. Nothing obvious keeping the car awake, and rest of car doesn't appear awake. After checking usual suspects (floor module, lighting, body etc.) the only thing that we noticed was that the throttle body was staying powered, easy to hear by buzz) long after it should have shut off (keys out, car off, no "comfort access"). Unplugging it immediately reduces the drain (which is at ~ 4A during this problem condition) There were no codes being thrown. After reading up here, it looks like it is pretty common for the throttle bodies to eventually fill up with oil/diesel and cause electrical issues, so I just went ahead and preemptively ordered a new one. My theory is that it is either an electrical gremlin (undefined behavior when things connect that shouldn't) or it is clogged/sticking, and unable to return to its "home" position. Wasn't sure about that one, because I assumed it would throw a code for the actuator if that was the case.

I found the sticky on installation - no problem there - but my mechanic said that new throttle bodies require coding of some sort to recalibrate (paraphrasing). I haven't found anything mentioned like that elsewhere - people talk about resetting it for some adaptive driver feature (key on, the push pedal to floor for 3 seconds, key off etc.). I'm wondering if he is maybe thinking of gas motors, since on a diesel the "throttle" doesn't quite serve that purpose literally, and I don't understand what it would be calibrating for. Per my understanding of diesel motors "throttling" is regulated by fuel input, and the only reason it even has a throttle body is for smooth shutoff and the EGR system.

Also, looking at wiring diagrams made me a bit nervous, because if I'm reading them correctly then the DDE, DDE Relay are controlling power to the throttle body. The DDE has an input from the Car Access System (CAS) which I assume is what tells that system to "prime" when you unlock / key goes in. When I checked the pins of the throttle body connector during the condition, one was ~12V and one was ~3.3V which looks to me like data and power (don't actually have system detail wiring, just the raw connection layout from newtis.info). I would not expect to see that (could be wrong) if it were a short or relay, because those are independent circuits.

It seems like the DDE actually thinks they should be on and in that state. Relating to the earlier theory, e.g. the computer is waiting for the throttle body to report it is in the closed/off position, but it is never getting there and keeping the computer from transitioning to the proper off state. In messing with it the past few days, it hasn't seemed to happen all the time now (with hood open I hear the throttle shut down properly). e.g. this AM I did not get a "battery discharge" message in iDrive, and it started fine. I had set the parking brake to try convincing the X5 that it should shut off, but that is probably a coincidence I work on automotive software (even for BMWs!) and while I have no access to this particular system, I do know the specified logic for the computers definitely has things like this - e.g. "If parking brake applied & key out & locked => Go to mode SUSPEND_WAIT" - so I figured it was worth a shot. This is the kind of condition I was alluding to earlier.

Another strange thing I noticed is that the contacts built into the throttle body look pretty stripped to me - Could also just be a crappy connection or weak ground I guess? (see attached). Another strange thing, when I just went to grab this picture, I locked the car, closed the hood (got the chirp) but then the alarm went off? Lock again shut it up. Maybe the battery voltage has gotten low again

Just in case it is relevant, it did throw a code yesterday evening P0128 (~coolant temp below theromostat temp). He said that it is typical and that BMW thermostats are not great - the pin ends up just not quite closing all the way so it is cooling inappropriately early. Said to make sure I let it idle until revs drop below 1k at it will be fine for now - if it gets worse will need a new stat.

I do not have diagnostic software setup currently (been relying on mechanic for that) but am looking into it. Seems all the screenshots I see are from Rheingold so assuming that is what to go for with a BMW? I'm sure I can hunt down an engineer/enthusiast at work eventually, but seems many people here are as familiar as anyone could be.

Sorry my first post is a novel, and thank you very much in advance. Of course if anyone else recognizes the behavior and solved a similar battery drain issue please let me know!
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_1586.JPG
Views:	79
Size:	38.5 KB
ID:	790462  

Last edited by onlyscotch; 04-20-2018 at 05:24 PM.
Reply With Quote
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
  #2  
Old 04-21-2018, 04:27 AM
stevieg58 stevieg58 is offline
Officially Welcomed to the 'Fest
Location: Atlanta, Georgia
 
Join Date: Jan 2015
Posts: 126
Mein Auto: 2010 e70 35d, 2018 X3 M40
Sounds like you know your stuff pretty well - I suspect I have only a minor point or two to contribute.

Not sure if coding of the throttle/anti-shudder valve "should" be done or not, but when I did mine several years ago I did not do any coding and it worked fine from the very beginning. My symptoms were shuddering on shut down (i.e. - I was not having a battery drain issue). When I inspected it the electrical components had been fouled with soot/goo, and the valve was immobile. For your sake I hope it solves the battery drain, but (as I noted above) I never had a drain when my valve went bad. Of course, yours might have a different type of failure which has produced a drain.

With regard to the thermostat, this link from Xoutpost is my favorite on that issue. If you're getting a code I assume your temps must be really low. Replacing the thermostat should give you a nice mpg improvement, but it shouldn't affect your parasitic drain.

Lastly, if it has been sitting on a lot for awhile (and/or not been garaged most of it's life), I'd be worried about water getting into some of your electrical components - that certainly could cause electrical gremlins. Check the sunroof drains, especially the ones draining by the rear hatch. Check the rubber boots at the top of the hatch area where electrical wire bundles come through from the body to the hatch. Check the gaskets around the rear hatch fasteners - a possible way for water to get into the rear. Lift up the rear floor panel, unscrew the plastic battery cover, and look all around for signs of water. Under the hood look under the area behind the engine compartment dividers are (where the brake fluid is on drivers side, and external cabin air filters on the passenger side). Look beneath those items all the way down the bottom. Make sure there aren't any big piles of leaves/debris that might turn those compartments into mini swimming pools.

That is about the extent of my wisdom. Hope that helps. Good luck.

Last edited by stevieg58; 04-21-2018 at 04:29 AM.
Reply With Quote
  #3  
Old 04-21-2018, 04:31 AM
Doug Huffman's Avatar
Doug Huffman Doug Huffman is offline
Nuclear engineer
Location: Washington Island, Wisconsin, thru Death's Door
 
Join Date: Apr 2015
Posts: 15,208
Mein Auto: CPO2012 X5 35d M57(E70)
Wow! 4 Amps at 12 VDC is 50 Watts of thermal energy, think a 50 W lightbulb. An infrared thermometer ought to be able to find 50 W.
__________________
Scepticism and Animal Faith (1923)
Scepticism is the chastity of the intellect, and it is shameful to surrender it too soon or to the first comer: there is nobility in preserving it coolly and proudly through long youth, until at last, in the ripeness of instinct and discretion, it can be safely exchanged for fidelity and happiness.
(The Works of George Santayana p. 65)

Eschew eristical argumentation. I am responsible for what I write, not for your understanding of it.
Reply With Quote
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
  #4  
Old 04-21-2018, 05:08 AM
smassey321 smassey321 is offline
Officially Welcomed to the 'Fest
Location: Phoenix, AZ
 
Join Date: Feb 2007
Posts: 1,192
Mein Auto: 09 X5d, 06 325i, 06 330i
For any diesel owner, I recommend you get the ISTA+ software. It can scan for codes and then you can then click on those codes to test and troubleshoot. Parts swapping to solve diesel issues has a very low rate of success and ISTA+ allows you to solve issues just like the dealer would. It can test your throttle by opening and closing it multiple times. IIRC I don't think there is a calibration for the diesel throttle. Perhaps an adaption though but that won't affect battery drain. Either way, once you drill into the component with the software, test plans and adaptions are obvious and have instructions and service manual information.

It makes sense that the throttle is trying to do some thing when you shut down. In addition to smoothing out the shut down, the throttle also prevents diesel engine run away. So being forced closed for a few minutes until it is confident the engine has shut down makes sense. Have you monitored the throttle voltage drain to see if it goes away after a certain amount of time?

And the diesels really want a near perfect battery. You mentioned that it sat for several months which will usually damage a battery beyond repair. Are you charging yours now? Is it original? A low battery can confuse the E70 and odd thing happen. Monitor voltage whenever odd thing happen.

ISTA+ Software https://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho....php?t=1023698

Cable https://www.bimmergeeks.net/product-...eeks-pro-cable

Last edited by smassey321; 04-21-2018 at 05:09 AM.
Reply With Quote
  #5  
Old 04-21-2018, 10:01 AM
onlyscotch onlyscotch is offline
Registered User
Location: Seattle, WA
 
Join Date: Apr 2018
Posts: 14
Mein Auto: 2010 E70 X5 35d
Quote:
Originally Posted by stevieg58 View Post
Sounds like you know your stuff pretty well - I suspect I have only a minor point or two to contribute.

With regard to the thermostat, this link from Xoutpost is my favorite on that issue. If you're getting a code I assume your temps must be really low. Replacing the thermostat should give you a nice mpg improvement, but it shouldn't affect your parasitic drain.

Lastly, if it has been sitting on a lot for awhile (and/or not been garaged most of it's life), I'd be worried about water getting into some of your electrical components - that certainly could cause electrical gremlins. Check the sunroof drains, especially the ones draining by the rear hatch. Check the rubber boots at the top of the hatch area where electrical wire bundles come through from the body to the hatch. Check the gaskets around the rear hatch fasteners - a possible way for water to get into the rear. Lift up the rear floor panel, unscrew the plastic battery cover, and look all around for signs of water. Under the hood look under the area behind the engine compartment dividers are (where the brake fluid is on drivers side, and external cabin air filters on the passenger side). Look beneath those items all the way down the bottom. Make sure there aren't any big piles of leaves/debris that might turn those compartments into mini swimming pools.

That is about the extent of my wisdom. Hope that helps. Good luck.
Thanks for the link and advice, I'll now be checking all this on shop day when I get the new throttle body and engine partitions in!
Reply With Quote
  #6  
Old 04-21-2018, 10:07 AM
onlyscotch onlyscotch is offline
Registered User
Location: Seattle, WA
 
Join Date: Apr 2018
Posts: 14
Mein Auto: 2010 E70 X5 35d
Quote:
Originally Posted by Doug Huffman View Post
Wow! 4 Amps at 12 VDC is 50 Watts of thermal energy, think a 50 W lightbulb. An infrared thermometer ought to be able to find 50 W.
Yes I thought the same thing! Seemed to correspond to power for a bulb or smell electric motor. That is a good idea using infrared - Maybe a genius way of debugging battery drain is to use an infrared camera...
Reply With Quote
  #7  
Old 04-21-2018, 10:17 AM
onlyscotch onlyscotch is offline
Registered User
Location: Seattle, WA
 
Join Date: Apr 2018
Posts: 14
Mein Auto: 2010 E70 X5 35d
Quote:
Originally Posted by smassey321 View Post
For any diesel owner, I recommend you get the ISTA+ software. It can scan for codes and then you can then click on those codes to test and troubleshoot. Parts swapping to solve diesel issues has a very low rate of success and ISTA+ allows you to solve issues just like the dealer would. It can test your throttle by opening and closing it multiple times. IIRC I don't think there is a calibration for the diesel throttle. Perhaps an adaption though but that won't affect battery drain. Either way, once you drill into the component with the software, test plans and adaptions are obvious and have instructions and service manual information.

It makes sense that the throttle is trying to do some thing when you shut down. In addition to smoothing out the shut down, the throttle also prevents diesel engine run away. So being forced closed for a few minutes until it is confident the engine has shut down makes sense. Have you monitored the throttle voltage drain to see if it goes away after a certain amount of time?

And the diesels really want a near perfect battery. You mentioned that it sat for several months which will usually damage a battery beyond repair. Are you charging yours now? Is it original? A low battery can confuse the E70 and odd thing happen. Monitor voltage whenever odd thing happen.

ISTA+ Software https://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho....php?t=1023698

Cable https://www.bimmergeeks.net/product-...eeks-pro-cable
Thanks for the wisdom and links. Yes the first thing I did was replace the battery - for a new-to-me car that is standard procedure (and this one was clearly junk, couldn't charge past 50%). It was done properly with a high quality battery and registered. Initially thought there could be a charging system issue - the alternator was putting out 15.5 Volts which is the highest I've ever seen. After reading up on the intelligent charging system in BMWs, learned this is just the system reacting to a very dead / bad battery, which is honestly pretty cool IMO.

RE: the throttle body voltage, yes, the issue is that sometimes it is turning off properly. When the problem happens it will stay on indefinitely - as long as you want to stay there and watch it. Under what seem like normal circumstances, it is at most about 1 minute before it turns off.

I will check out ISTA+
Reply With Quote
  #8  
Old 04-21-2018, 11:56 AM
ard ard is offline
Resident Curmudgeon
Location: Sierra foothills, California USA
 
Join Date: Jul 2009
Posts: 21,227
Mein Auto: '12 X5 35d/E39M5/996TTX50
Quote:
Originally Posted by onlyscotch View Post
Yes I thought the same thing! Seemed to correspond to power for a bulb or smell electric motor. That is a good idea using infrared - Maybe a genius way of debugging battery drain is to use an infrared camera...
I recall someone identifying a bad comfort access door handle sensor using an infrared thermometer... significantly warmer than the others, and the surrounding door.
__________________
Alignment here: The Definitive Alignment Thread

OE is Original Equipment aka 'BMW Original Parts' aka 'What you buy at the BMW dealer with a BMW label'

OEM is Original Equipment Manufacturer... EITHER the company that made the OE part or.... A part this is identical to the OE part, but is sold by the OEM under their own label


OEM is not what BMW sells


http://www.bimmerzone.com/category/T...ricks_OEM.html

https://www.turnermotorsport.com/t-OEvsOEM
Reply With Quote
  #9  
Old 04-21-2018, 02:45 PM
smassey321 smassey321 is offline
Officially Welcomed to the 'Fest
Location: Phoenix, AZ
 
Join Date: Feb 2007
Posts: 1,192
Mein Auto: 09 X5d, 06 325i, 06 330i
The attached doc is a good explanation of how the system works. Sleep Blocker is the issue you have.
Attached Files
File Type: pdf www.bmwcoders.com-03c_E70 Energy Management.pdf (356.9 KB, 191 views)
Reply With Quote
  #10  
Old 04-21-2018, 03:30 PM
Doug Huffman's Avatar
Doug Huffman Doug Huffman is offline
Nuclear engineer
Location: Washington Island, Wisconsin, thru Death's Door
 
Join Date: Apr 2015
Posts: 15,208
Mein Auto: CPO2012 X5 35d M57(E70)
Thanks for the good reference. Good to review this and three others.

It is also available in the E70 knowledge base sticky link to LPCapital G00gle Drive file. There are also, 03a_E70 Voltage Supply and Bus.pdf, 03c_E70 Energy Management.pdf, Battery Basics, and Power Management.

Quote:
Originally Posted by smassey321 View Post
The attached doc is a good explanation of how the system works. Sleep Blocker is the issue you have.
__________________
Scepticism and Animal Faith (1923)
Scepticism is the chastity of the intellect, and it is shameful to surrender it too soon or to the first comer: there is nobility in preserving it coolly and proudly through long youth, until at last, in the ripeness of instinct and discretion, it can be safely exchanged for fidelity and happiness.
(The Works of George Santayana p. 65)

Eschew eristical argumentation. I am responsible for what I write, not for your understanding of it.
Reply With Quote
  #11  
Old 04-22-2018, 11:19 AM
onlyscotch onlyscotch is offline
Registered User
Location: Seattle, WA
 
Join Date: Apr 2018
Posts: 14
Mein Auto: 2010 E70 X5 35d
Quote:
Originally Posted by smassey321 View Post
The attached doc is a good explanation of how the system works. Sleep Blocker is the issue you have.
Thanks for the reference! Reading through it seems like diagnostics should have the wakeup source logged in this kind of situation. Don't have the setup for that yet, but it is going into the dealer for the airbag recall in a couple weeks. I'll be gone on vacation half that time, but "hopefully" it reproduces because otherwise I think the days it was faulting are gonna be pushed out of memory. Maybe it would be best to rush it somewhere with a computer though - don't want to lose that data and always be wondering if it is going to come up again.

According to the doc it looks like errors entering sleep mode like modules that aren't reporting correctly should raise a code, but I'm not seeing that, just the increased battery discharge (>80ma). That makes it seem like some sensor "wakeup source" to a module.

Since CAS is a source to DDE, that warrants investigation others mentioned about the liftgate - docs say liftgate switches are a legit wakeup source for the system. *one* time I saw a "please close liftgate" message when the gate was apparently closed - maybe that is the culprit! Also, my liftgate doesn't seem to open all the way despite the setting being max height in iDrive. Never owned one of these before so wasn't sure if that was expected behavior. This is making for a compelling conspiracy theory involving the liftgate.
Reply With Quote
  #12  
Old 04-25-2018, 10:51 AM
onlyscotch onlyscotch is offline
Registered User
Location: Seattle, WA
 
Join Date: Apr 2018
Posts: 14
Mein Auto: 2010 E70 X5 35d
Update: Indy thinks it is the footwell module (FRM). My car is 18 days outside of the extended warranty covering the defective modules (bricked after scan/dead battery). I don't have a lot of faith they are correct, but so far nothing else looks suspect.

Does anyone know if a diagram exists covering all ground connections for these cars? I've been piecing them together but this is rather tedious, and can't be sure I haven't missed any.

Throttle body replaced, although it looked relatively good. The EGR on the other hand seems to need some attention (attached) - what do you think?

I'm still surveying the water damage from the disintegrated partition. The driver side screw well on the engine cover is not a great omen :/ Unfortunately I ran out of shop time and had to put things back together before fully removing the engine cover - priority was the throttle body.
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_1600.JPG
Views:	55
Size:	99.6 KB
ID:	791448   Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_1596.JPG
Views:	53
Size:	104.6 KB
ID:	791456  
Reply With Quote
  #13  
Old 04-25-2018, 11:17 AM
Doug Huffman's Avatar
Doug Huffman Doug Huffman is offline
Nuclear engineer
Location: Washington Island, Wisconsin, thru Death's Door
 
Join Date: Apr 2015
Posts: 15,208
Mein Auto: CPO2012 X5 35d M57(E70)
Grounds at www.NewTIS.info.

Quote:
Originally Posted by onlyscotch View Post
Does anyone know if a diagram exists covering all ground connections for these cars?
I believe that there are many individual component grounds also.
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...arch?q=Grounds
__________________
Scepticism and Animal Faith (1923)
Scepticism is the chastity of the intellect, and it is shameful to surrender it too soon or to the first comer: there is nobility in preserving it coolly and proudly through long youth, until at last, in the ripeness of instinct and discretion, it can be safely exchanged for fidelity and happiness.
(The Works of George Santayana p. 65)

Eschew eristical argumentation. I am responsible for what I write, not for your understanding of it.
Reply With Quote
  #14  
Old 04-25-2018, 04:44 PM
ard ard is offline
Resident Curmudgeon
Location: Sierra foothills, California USA
 
Join Date: Jul 2009
Posts: 21,227
Mein Auto: '12 X5 35d/E39M5/996TTX50
Folks can repair these FRMs. However it is specialized, requires removal of E components at a board level (or similar). There are a few youtube videos, if you are inclined to find one that might do it.
__________________
Alignment here: The Definitive Alignment Thread

OE is Original Equipment aka 'BMW Original Parts' aka 'What you buy at the BMW dealer with a BMW label'

OEM is Original Equipment Manufacturer... EITHER the company that made the OE part or.... A part this is identical to the OE part, but is sold by the OEM under their own label


OEM is not what BMW sells


http://www.bimmerzone.com/category/T...ricks_OEM.html

https://www.turnermotorsport.com/t-OEvsOEM
Reply With Quote
  #15  
Old 04-25-2018, 05:42 PM
onlyscotch onlyscotch is offline
Registered User
Location: Seattle, WA
 
Join Date: Apr 2018
Posts: 14
Mein Auto: 2010 E70 X5 35d
Quote:
Originally Posted by ard View Post
Folks can repair these FRMs. However it is specialized, requires removal of E components at a board level (or similar). There are a few youtube videos, if you are inclined to find one that might do it.
Second update, shop said they took apart the old FRM and noted heavy corrosion and a burned up MOSFET. They are very convinced this was this issue. I am going to see it with my own eyes tomorrow, but honestly hope they are right. If that is the case it wasn't just one that had its memory wiped by that bug (i.e. only has to be re-flashed).

In any case, I'm an ECE guy so maybe I could re-solder a new MOSFET and sell it used. The $680 for 18 days out of warranty is a hard pill to swallow.
Reply With Quote
  #16  
Old 04-25-2018, 06:46 PM
ard ard is offline
Resident Curmudgeon
Location: Sierra foothills, California USA
 
Join Date: Jul 2009
Posts: 21,227
Mein Auto: '12 X5 35d/E39M5/996TTX50
Eh, that is actually NOT the usual failure mode of the FRMs. BMW has some amazingly stupid firmware in which they purposefully (yes!) brick the unit if it see a certain number of power on/offs. When people were sloppy with a battery change the make/break on the terminals would lock them. Ultimately they revised the coding to avoid it. But this is the core of the recall

A burned mosfet Ive not heard of, just saying.

Oh, 'heavy corrosion'???, bmw might not have covered even 19 days earlier....
__________________
Alignment here: The Definitive Alignment Thread

OE is Original Equipment aka 'BMW Original Parts' aka 'What you buy at the BMW dealer with a BMW label'

OEM is Original Equipment Manufacturer... EITHER the company that made the OE part or.... A part this is identical to the OE part, but is sold by the OEM under their own label


OEM is not what BMW sells


http://www.bimmerzone.com/category/T...ricks_OEM.html

https://www.turnermotorsport.com/t-OEvsOEM
Reply With Quote
  #17  
Old 04-25-2018, 10:48 PM
onlyscotch onlyscotch is offline
Registered User
Location: Seattle, WA
 
Join Date: Apr 2018
Posts: 14
Mein Auto: 2010 E70 X5 35d
Quote:
Originally Posted by ard View Post
Eh, that is actually NOT the usual failure mode of the FRMs. BMW has some amazingly stupid firmware in which they purposefully (yes!) brick the unit if it see a certain number of power on/offs. When people were sloppy with a battery change the make/break on the terminals would lock them. Ultimately they revised the coding to avoid it. But this is the core of the recall

A burned mosfet Ive not heard of, just saying.

Oh, 'heavy corrosion'???, bmw might not have covered even 19 days earlier....
As hard to believe as that is, as a software engineer that works at supplier for ECU/infotainment software, I believe it. Probably some ill-conceived requirement.

I'll see it with my own eyes tomorrow - end of the day I am hoping they are right because at about the two week mark debugging isn't fun anymore.
Reply With Quote
  #18  
Old 04-26-2018, 12:01 PM
onlyscotch onlyscotch is offline
Registered User
Location: Seattle, WA
 
Join Date: Apr 2018
Posts: 14
Mein Auto: 2010 E70 X5 35d
Here is the picture of the oxidized MOSFET in the FRM, under microscope. No signs of water damage/intrusion or any other logical reason this would have happened. Given some peripheral behavior (lightly flickering interior lights, door handle LEDs, iDrive screen - one instance of obviously pulsing lights - e.g. the hazard lights button).

Time will tell whether this was definitely the cause of the battery drain, but even if not it was still a problem.
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_1605.jpg
Views:	65
Size:	92.8 KB
ID:	791608  
Reply With Quote
  #19  
Old 04-04-2020, 12:48 PM
subdude subdude is offline
Registered User
Location: Connecticut
 
Join Date: Apr 2013
Posts: 93
Mein Auto: X5 Diesel
Quote:
Originally Posted by onlyscotch View Post
Update: Indy thinks it is the footwell module (FRM). My car is 18 days outside of the extended warranty covering the defective modules (bricked after scan/dead battery). I don't have a lot of faith they are correct, but so far nothing else looks suspect.

Does anyone know if a diagram exists covering all ground connections for these cars? I've been piecing them together but this is rather tedious, and can't be sure I haven't missed any.

Throttle body replaced, although it looked relatively good. The EGR on the other hand seems to need some attention (attached) - what do you think?

I'm still surveying the water damage from the disintegrated partition. The driver side screw well on the engine cover is not a great omen :/ Unfortunately I ran out of shop time and had to put things back together before fully removing the engine cover - priority was the throttle body.
The throttle body on my 2010 X5 35d failed today. I heard a buzzing sound under the hood at idle and localized it to the throttle body. I unplugged the amphenol connector and the motor actuator for the throttle body stopped. It would appear that the DDE is trying to shut the throttle(fail open) and continues to power the motor due to no position feed back. I think the feedback signal may have been lost first causing the motor to run continuously and destroy the gears.

My question to the OP or anyone else with this issue. Did the valve replacement alone solve the issue? I did read and do understand that this may involve an adaptation reset.
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	Throttle Body.jpg
Views:	24
Size:	134.7 KB
ID:	887539   Click image for larger version

Name:	Throttle Body 2.jpg
Views:	23
Size:	118.4 KB
ID:	887541  

Last edited by subdude; 04-04-2020 at 12:51 PM.
Reply With Quote
  #20  
Old 04-04-2020, 01:11 PM
Doug Huffman's Avatar
Doug Huffman Doug Huffman is offline
Nuclear engineer
Location: Washington Island, Wisconsin, thru Death's Door
 
Join Date: Apr 2015
Posts: 15,208
Mein Auto: CPO2012 X5 35d M57(E70)
No readaptation according to this
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...lation/QCRcKJ8
__________________
Scepticism and Animal Faith (1923)
Scepticism is the chastity of the intellect, and it is shameful to surrender it too soon or to the first comer: there is nobility in preserving it coolly and proudly through long youth, until at last, in the ripeness of instinct and discretion, it can be safely exchanged for fidelity and happiness.
(The Works of George Santayana p. 65)

Eschew eristical argumentation. I am responsible for what I write, not for your understanding of it.
Reply With Quote
  #21  
Old 04-04-2020, 01:13 PM
subdude subdude is offline
Registered User
Location: Connecticut
 
Join Date: Apr 2013
Posts: 93
Mein Auto: X5 Diesel
Quote:
Originally Posted by Doug Huffman View Post
Thanks!
Reply With Quote
  #22  
Old 04-04-2020, 02:57 PM
blue dragon blue dragon is offline
Officially Welcomed to the 'Fest
Location: Pickering/Toronto
 
Join Date: Aug 2011
Posts: 1,341
Mein Auto: X5 35D
Buy the Pierburg from FCP euro so you can take advantage of their free replacement. Unless you have installed a catch can, this will happen again. Oil seeps past the seals and kill the motor in the throttle valve.

https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw...dy-11717804384
__________________
http://www.wardphotography.com/sig10.jpg
| '09 X5 35D - Work horse (Sold) | '17 X1 MSport - Wife's daily | '17 - 340i MSport - My daily | '17 X5 35D - current work horse |

Last edited by blue dragon; 04-04-2020 at 03:06 PM.
Reply With Quote
  #23  
Old 04-05-2020, 03:49 AM
subdude subdude is offline
Registered User
Location: Connecticut
 
Join Date: Apr 2013
Posts: 93
Mein Auto: X5 Diesel
Quote:
Originally Posted by blue dragon View Post
Buy the Pierburg from FCP euro so you can take advantage of their free replacement. Unless you have installed a catch can, this will happen again. Oil seeps past the seals and kill the motor in the throttle valve.

https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw...dy-11717804384
Thank you, I never noticed that they are located close to my house as well!

Last edited by subdude; 04-05-2020 at 04:49 AM.
Reply With Quote
  #24  
Old 04-07-2020, 11:34 AM
subdude subdude is offline
Registered User
Location: Connecticut
 
Join Date: Apr 2013
Posts: 93
Mein Auto: X5 Diesel
I purchased and installed a new throttle valve from FCP. Retest is satisfactory. I also removed and cleaned the EGR valve while it was exposed although it did not look nearly as bad as some others I have seen pictures of. Hopefully that brings an end to the CEL for a while, at least until I pass emissions...
Reply With Quote
Reply

See More Related BMW Stories


Forum Navigation
Go Back   Bimmerfest - BMW Forums > BMW Model Discussions > X Series > X5 E70 (2007 - 2013)
Today's Posts Search
Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On



Forum Jump


All times are GMT -7. The time now is 12:02 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8
Copyright ©2000 - 2020, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
vBulletin Security provided by vBSecurity v2.2.2 (Pro) - vBulletin Mods & Addons Copyright © 2020 DragonByte Technologies Ltd.
© 2001- VerticalScope Inc. All rights reserved.