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X5 E70 (2007 - 2013)
E70 BMW X5 produced between 2007 and 2013. Discuss the E70 X5 with other BMW owners here.

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Old 02-12-2017, 03:01 PM
elmer84 elmer84 is offline
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Location: West Coast
Join Date: Feb 2017
Posts: 6
Mein Auto: 335i, X5 35D
Fuel Injector Replacement & Pressurizing Lines to Start Engine. 2010 X5 35D

Recently changed no. 6 fuel injector due to water dripping onto engine and shorting out injector.
Procedure for fuel injector was found on this site so I will only add my personal input on the procedure.
I didn't have a tool to pull the injector (slide hammer or BMW puller tool). I simply used a pry bar under the existing SST line. Unscrew from the manifold end, of-course and leave other end screwed onto fuel injector.
Be gentle and use feeling on the pry operation (I used a round steel bar approx. .50" diameter). If the injector is really stubborn and it feels like the line will be pinched or mutilated, STOP and try something else. My injector popped out pretty easily. The only thing holding it in and causing friction is an o-ring. By the way a new line is approx. $35 where as the slide hammer tool is $76. I didn't have the time for delivery of tool.

Once injector was replaced I tried the Push Start Button procedure to pressurize the manifold and injector lines. Putzed with it a long time and could not start the vehicle. Engine cranked but no start. Couldn't understand why not as a diesel only needs fuel and compression to run. I thought maybe I missed some connector during reassembly. It wasn't the case.
Finally out of desperation I bled the system the old fashioned way. I lifted the foam noise dampening cover to expose the fuel line connection on fuel injector no. 1. Loosened the line connection with the intake manifold in place (note, its real limited on space, you will only be able to turn the nut 1/8" at a time and flip wrench over with each miniscule rotation. Don't break the plastic fuel return line on the injector!) Once the nut is loose, you can turn it by fingers (it only needs to be slightly loose, not all the way off, but loose enough to allow fuel to leak out when engine is cranked. Put glasses on to keep potential fuel spray out of eyes. Call assistant to start engine. Watch bubbles and fuel come up around nut, when a solid stream of fuel is squirting out, tighten nut with fingers quickly and flag assistant to stop cranking engine.
Now tighten nut the rest of the way with wrench. Engine should start right up. Mine did.

Looking at my broken engine partition, I needed a temporary and possibly permanent (but I'm not admitting anything) fix to the water leak issue. The only path I could see for water to get underneath the plastic shroud and foam dampening material is to leak thru the bolt hole at the back of the engine which holds the plastic and foam dampening material in place. Searching for the perfect item to seal this hole, I thought of my wife's wine cork collection.........I grabbed a good looking intact cork and attempted to plug it into the hole of the plastic cover. It fit perfectly.

I have a new partition kit on order (right, center and left partition Kit #5171769419KT from ECS Tuning).

Wrench On!
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