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  #926  
Old 08-15-2019, 03:48 PM
Serge858 Serge858 is offline
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Originally Posted by ill_kuma View Post
Remove the center console like this?
Yes, like this but no need to remove the frame (on 3:33). Also you'll need to remove the side soft tunnel cover.
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  #927  
Old 08-16-2019, 11:44 AM
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I'm using an USB DAC and the sound quality is the same or if not better than the factory idrive side
Which USB DAC do you have...seems like most of them works for PC and MAC only? I am not sure on the setup for this but let me know if I am correct. Connect the USB side of the DAC to the USB of the Android unit. Then connect one end AUX cable to the analog side and the other end to the armrest AUX.

Last edited by ill_kuma; 08-16-2019 at 11:58 AM.
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  #928  
Old 08-16-2019, 12:50 PM
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I was using a dragonfly red but the noise floor was high. now I'm using a soundkey dac and love it. you can check my build (see sig) for more details
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  #929  
Old 08-16-2019, 03:12 PM
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I was using a dragonfly red but the noise floor was high. now I'm using a soundkey dac and love it. you can check my build (see sig) for more details
Nice. I am not an audiophile so I doubt I would even tell the difference between the dragonfly and soundkey...but the price is such a big difference. I might go this route instead of the splicing and soldering.

BTW, what are you doing with the extra AUX output port from the Android unit now?

Last edited by ill_kuma; 08-16-2019 at 03:14 PM.
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  #930  
Old 08-16-2019, 04:05 PM
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im not doing anything with it. I wrapped it in electrical tape and tucked it behind the armrest
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  #931  
Old 08-16-2019, 11:42 PM
Serge858 Serge858 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sunny_j View Post
I was using a dragonfly red but the noise floor was high. now I'm using a soundkey dac and love it. you can check my build (see sig) for more details
Hi, good to know you are happy with the Soundkey USB DAC. Does it keep up sound on the same level or you need to adjust it every time you switch on android?

I read the case of using another DAC: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/3283...55ff33edox3TlQ
It works fine (E70 has multimedia without DSP though) but as the user reported he needs to adjust volume every time which is annoying.
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  #932  
Old 08-17-2019, 12:36 AM
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It stays at full volume. Usually if the DAC doesn't have volume controls on it, it will stay at 100%
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2012 X5d | White on Black | Sports Package | EGR/DPF/SCR Delete | BRR Tune | DWR TCU Tune | 10.25" Android 8.1 Screen

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  #933  
Old 08-17-2019, 01:02 AM
Serge858 Serge858 is offline
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Originally Posted by sunny_j View Post
It stays at full volume. Usually if the DAC doesn't have volume controls on it, it will stay at 100%
Sounds good. Thanks for the clarification.
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  #934  
Old 08-17-2019, 01:09 AM
Serge858 Serge858 is offline
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Guys, hope you all know about a possibility of SPLITing SCREEN on Android. In smartphones it goes out-of-the-box while in car androids extra app and settings is needed. I use it all the time on my 8.1 Android. Here's a short video about it (in Russian, sorry, but below there is an instruction on how to set it up in English as well):
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  #935  
Old 08-17-2019, 11:32 AM
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Which app are you using to initiate split screen? I couldn't find anything on the Play store
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  #936  
Old 08-17-2019, 01:28 PM
Serge858 Serge858 is offline
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Originally Posted by sunny_j View Post
Which app are you using to initiate split screen? I couldn't find anything on the Play store
Split Screen Shortcut: https://play.google.com/store/apps/d...droid&hl=en_US
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  #937  
Old 08-17-2019, 01:36 PM
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Thanks Serge. I will give it a shot this weekend
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  #938  
Old 08-18-2019, 10:35 AM
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Spilt screen app worked!
Too bad the isn't a way to split screen Google maps and factory iDrive side
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  #939  
Old 08-18-2019, 11:01 AM
Serge858 Serge858 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sunny_j View Post
Spilt screen app worked!
Too bad the isn't a way to split screen Google maps and factory iDrive side
Cool!
Yeah, splitting screen for Android and Factory side is impossible at least for the time being. We want too much from Android device))
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  #940  
Old 08-19-2019, 12:36 PM
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ill_kuma ill_kuma is online now
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Originally Posted by Serge858 View Post
Hummm...it says the version is not compatible with my Android. I think I have the Android Jelly bean version.

I removed the Android unit this past weekend and took a look at the cables in the back of that adapter and looked at the wires for the OEM USB...and boy, they are thin. It scared me away...didnt want to splice into those thin wires and mess up. Not for the faint heart. I guess I will have to do the USB DAC way. Now to find a fairly price USB DAC...

Last edited by ill_kuma; 08-19-2019 at 12:40 PM.
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  #941  
Old 08-19-2019, 01:24 PM
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The soundkey was the cheapest when I was looking. $60usd on Amazon USA
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  #942  
Old 08-19-2019, 01:48 PM
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The soundkey was the cheapest when I was looking. $60usd on Amazon USA
Damn, its up to $100 now.
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  #943  
Old 08-19-2019, 11:06 PM
Serge858 Serge858 is offline
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Originally Posted by ill_kuma View Post
Damn, its up to $100 now.
200cm of good AUX cable is only about $4 but result is amazing and no extra devices in the system
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  #944  
Old 08-19-2019, 11:12 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Serge858 View Post
200cm of good AUX cable is only about $4 but result is amazing and no extra devices in the system
I might try your method one of these days. Too many other projects on the to do list for my x5d
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  #945  
Old 08-19-2019, 11:33 PM
Serge858 Serge858 is offline
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Originally Posted by sunny_j View Post
I might try your method one of these days. Too many other projects on the to do list for my x5d
Would be good to compare with USB DAC. Many users did wiring method, fewer did USB DAC but no one did both.
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  #946  
Old 08-20-2019, 08:53 AM
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200cm of good AUX cable is only about $4 but result is amazing and no extra devices in the system
You guys must have very delicate hands skills cause the wires are thin. I am afraid to even to strip the wires cause I tested stripping a wire that is the same size and I broken few of the copper strains. Then you have to splice and solder. Do you use electrical tape to wrap it after soldering?

BTW, instead an AUX cable...can I use speaker wires (they are just slightly thicker than my AUX cable) to connect those 3 wires from the Android adapter and the BMW AUX adapter?

Another question, is it possible to remove those 3 pins from the Android connector and then connect the wires and put it back into the Android connector? And same for the BMW AUX side?


Quote:
Originally Posted by sunny_j View Post
I might try your method one of these days. Too many other projects on the to do list for my x5d
If you do it and like it, sell me your USB DAC.
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  #947  
Old 08-20-2019, 10:42 AM
Serge858 Serge858 is offline
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Originally Posted by ill_kuma View Post
You guys must have very delicate hands skills cause the wires are thin. I am afraid to even to strip the wires cause I tested stripping a wire that is the same size and I broken few of the copper strains. Then you have to splice and solder. Do you use electrical tape to wrap it after soldering?



BTW, instead an AUX cable...can I use speaker wires (they are just slightly thicker than my AUX cable) to connect those 3 wires from the Android adapter and the BMW AUX adapter?



Another question, is it possible to remove those 3 pins from the Android connector and then connect the wires and put it back into the Android connector? And same for the BMW AUX side?









If you do it and like it, sell me your USB DAC.
Don't use stripper to clean the isolation, just a sharp knife. Without rush you'll have good result. After soldering you need to isolate each wire with electrical tape and then all together with anti-noise tape as well.

No, speakers audio cable is not good for AUX, since the cable should be shielded to avoid noise. Any copper AUX/earphones cable 3-4mm will do.

It is definitely possible to remove pins from the plug but i failed to do that (no experience) and just had cut and opened tape around aux wires, thus got more space to work with them.

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  #948  
Old 08-23-2019, 08:54 PM
JRHDDANE_X5 JRHDDANE_X5 is offline
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are these available for overseas markets only? can't seem to find the screens on ebay...any help is appreciated.

*Edit
oh I found them...filter was set to North America products only. Risky AF with them Shanghai sellers I guess.
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Last edited by JRHDDANE_X5; 08-23-2019 at 09:15 PM. Reason: new info
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  #949  
Old 09-03-2019, 10:51 PM
rbryantaz rbryantaz is offline
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Octacore Android 9.0 4G/64G install nearly complete

I got the new octacore Snapdragon 625 Android 9.0 head unit with 4G/64G from aliexpess (seller Kanor) last week.

The Unit:

I opted for the 4/64 version because it is supposed to have a screen with less glare. It comes with a black surround where the 3/32 octacore version has the silver finish on the surround.

There are also PX6 android units out there which are slightly cheaper and probably fine. The Snapdragon unit also has cellular support and updated video processing so it seemed like a good idea.

I installed most of it over the weekend and it went pretty well even though there was zero documentation other than wire labels.

My X5's options:

My 2007 CCC had the 6.5" screen, no nav, no reverse camera, no rear entertainment but did have the glovebox CD changer and SAT radio.

I have AUX in the center armrest but no USB.

Options were:

S645ABMW US Radio
S655ASatellite tuner
S663ARadio BMW Professional
S672ACD changer for 6 CDs
S677AHiFi System Professional DSP

I did not have to use the AUX cable and the sound is good. I saw no difference between connecting to the AUX in the armrest and not.

AUX input observations:

The aux input that they provide in the unit's wiring is just a splice into the aux input in the aftermarket connector that goes between the radio and the factory wiring. It is just effectively connected to pins 2, 7,8 as shown here from an e60 writeup that appears to be the same as the e70:






Reference: https://www.dvdgpsnav.com/blog/solut...oid-head-unit/

I bet most people's problems would be resolved by removing the wires shown above if using the latest unit (that way they aren't overdriven, grounded out, loaded, etc). I almost wonder if connecting a dummy connector into the AUX jack would also work to disconnect the rest of the system... Often aux jacks have an internal switch/disconnect when you plug something into them so just plugging something in would allow the units connections to start working even without driving a signal to it (because the signal is already driven on the same wires with the new unit)!

Please do let me know if I am missing something with the wiring here... It should be possible to identify any issues precisely...

GPS:

I plan to use the factory GPS connection to the sharkfin. I have to remove it from the connection in the rear behind the right rear panel and connect it via an aftermarket GPS extension cable. I discovered however that if I disconnect the antenna from the box I get an annoying SOS error when I start the car so I will have to either code that out or split the antenna. For now I ordered a splitter.
I recommend buying a 16ft fakra cable with male on one end and female on the other (extender) and then using a male to dual female splitter. The reason to do male to dual female and not the other way around (no threesome jokes please) is that the splicing of the cable is done in a better way than most fmale to dual male splitters that I see.

Aftermarket rear camera:

I bought a $21 latch camera with fake dynamic lines. The dynamic lines move if the car is moving and stay for a couple of seconds if you slow to a stop. I haven't tested it much but it seems okay and it can be ignored if desired. I used the latch camera because it seemed more centered. On second thought perhaps having it offset to the passenger side would given a better curb view when parallel parking.... I also needed a new latch because the rubber/plastic on mine had gone goopy from the sun here in AZ. I may consider splurging another $20 to put a camera in the factory location. I wired it so that it can be swapped with just the video and power connector so it is no big deal.

The install was actually easier than a lot of howto's show. The unit has a "camera 12v" line and a "Camera Det" line. I am not sure what the "Camera Det" line does but the 12v line does indeed drive battery voltage when the x5 goes into reverse. This is handy because you can connect that to the red wire that comes with the video cable as a power source. This is much better than connecting to reverse light (possibly with relay to make it stable, etc). I also ran a ground wire from the hatch to the ground lug on the passenger side (behind the access panel). I probably could have just connected it to the hatch body but this seemed like an easy thing to do that will provide a very stable ground.

Click image for larger version

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I crimped a spade splice in just incase my camera video line fails or I need to upgrade it to one with more shielding but so far it seems just fine. Plus it is just nice to be able to disconnect things and i had them laying around.


I don't have object detection (perhaps that is what the det line is for but it seems to work just fine for $20 instead of hundreds for a factory camera retrofit.

Last edited by rbryantaz; 09-03-2019 at 10:57 PM.
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  #950  
Old 09-09-2019, 02:59 PM
rbryantaz rbryantaz is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rbryantaz View Post
I got the new octacore Snapdragon 625 Android 9.0 head unit with 4G/64G from aliexpess (seller Kanor) last week.

The Unit:

I opted for the 4/64 version because it is supposed to have a screen with less glare. It comes with a black surround where the 3/32 octacore version has the silver finish on the surround.

There are also PX6 android units out there which are slightly cheaper and probably fine. The Snapdragon unit also has cellular support and updated video processing so it seemed like a good idea.

I installed most of it over the weekend and it went pretty well even though there was zero documentation other than wire labels.

My X5's options:

My 2007 CCC had the 6.5" screen, no nav, no reverse camera, no rear entertainment but did have the glovebox CD changer and SAT radio.

I have AUX in the center armrest but no USB.

Options were:

S645ABMW US Radio
S655ASatellite tuner
S663ARadio BMW Professional
S672ACD changer for 6 CDs
S677AHiFi System Professional DSP

I did not have to use the AUX cable and the sound is good. I saw no difference between connecting to the AUX in the armrest and not.

AUX input observations:

The aux input that they provide in the unit's wiring is just a splice into the aux input in the aftermarket connector that goes between the radio and the factory wiring. It is just effectively connected to pins 2, 7,8 as shown here from an e60 writeup that appears to be the same as the e70:






Reference: https://www.dvdgpsnav.com/blog/solut...oid-head-unit/

I bet most people's problems would be resolved by removing the wires shown above if using the latest unit (that way they aren't overdriven, grounded out, loaded, etc). I almost wonder if connecting a dummy connector into the AUX jack would also work to disconnect the rest of the system... Often aux jacks have an internal switch/disconnect when you plug something into them so just plugging something in would allow the units connections to start working even without driving a signal to it (because the signal is already driven on the same wires with the new unit)!

Please do let me know if I am missing something with the wiring here... It should be possible to identify any issues precisely...

GPS:

I plan to use the factory GPS connection to the sharkfin. I have to remove it from the connection in the rear behind the right rear panel and connect it via an aftermarket GPS extension cable. I discovered however that if I disconnect the antenna from the box I get an annoying SOS error when I start the car so I will have to either code that out or split the antenna. For now I ordered a splitter.
I recommend buying a 16ft fakra cable with male on one end and female on the other (extender) and then using a male to dual female splitter. The reason to do male to dual female and not the other way around (no threesome jokes please) is that the splicing of the cable is done in a better way than most fmale to dual male splitters that I see.

Aftermarket rear camera:

I bought a $21 latch camera with fake dynamic lines. The dynamic lines move if the car is moving and stay for a couple of seconds if you slow to a stop. I haven't tested it much but it seems okay and it can be ignored if desired. I used the latch camera because it seemed more centered. On second thought perhaps having it offset to the passenger side would given a better curb view when parallel parking.... I also needed a new latch because the rubber/plastic on mine had gone goopy from the sun here in AZ. I may consider splurging another $20 to put a camera in the factory location. I wired it so that it can be swapped with just the video and power connector so it is no big deal.

The install was actually easier than a lot of howto's show. The unit has a "camera 12v" line and a "Camera Det" line. I am not sure what the "Camera Det" line does but the 12v line does indeed drive battery voltage when the x5 goes into reverse. This is handy because you can connect that to the red wire that comes with the video cable as a power source. This is much better than connecting to reverse light (possibly with relay to make it stable, etc). I also ran a ground wire from the hatch to the ground lug on the passenger side (behind the access panel). I probably could have just connected it to the hatch body but this seemed like an easy thing to do that will provide a very stable ground.

Attachment 863419
I crimped a spade splice in just incase my camera video line fails or I need to upgrade it to one with more shielding but so far it seems just fine. Plus it is just nice to be able to disconnect things and i had them laying around.


I don't have object detection (perhaps that is what the det line is for but it seems to work just fine for $20 instead of hundreds for a factory camera retrofit.
Update:

Rather than splitting the factory GPS antenna I just connected directly to the factory antenna with a $10.50 16ft male to female extension cable from amazon. I don't have factory NAV so I just connected the antenna provided with the android head unit where the factory connection was and stuck the antenna on top of the module. While it likely doesn't have a great signal it is good enough to avoid the SOS startup error I was getting with it disconnected. This gives the best possible connection to the android unit.

-Rich

Last edited by rbryantaz; 09-09-2019 at 03:00 PM.
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