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  #1  
Old 11-29-2018, 12:40 PM
TechnicalMagic TechnicalMagic is offline
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Hi everyone, I purchased a 2011 750li and I am a complete newbie. I am having shifting issues with the car. I have one permanent code 400635 and 3 intermittent codes 20A608 20A504 1D3901. After reading I suspect it might be a mechatronic problem. However, if anyone has experience or can further help guide me in the right direction that would be great. I want to order a solenoid kit but want to make sure I am on the right path. Thank you in advance for any suggestions or help.
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  #2  
Old 11-29-2018, 01:17 PM
Zabdielhamilton Zabdielhamilton is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TechnicalMagic View Post
Hi everyone, I purchased a 2011 750li and I am a complete newbie. I am having shifting issues with the car. I have one permanent code 400635 and 3 intermittent codes 20A608 20A504 1D3901. After reading I suspect it might be a mechatronic problem. However, if anyone has experience or can further help guide me in the right direction that would be great. I want to order a solenoid kit but want to make sure I am on the right path. Thank you in advance for any suggestions or help.
Had the same issue on my 2011 750li shifter stick in Neutral and took it to both BMW dealership and an independent German auto shop. Both pointed the the Machatronic but decided to have the independent change all the solenoids and it drives ok now. BMW wanted to change the entire Mechatronic which would have come with all the solenoids but them they wanted to change the entire transmission. I had the 20A608 and the 20A504 codes as well.
Hope that helps.
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  #3  
Old 11-30-2018, 01:27 AM
TechnicalMagic TechnicalMagic is offline
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Thank you, I hope ūü§ě I have the same results.
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  #4  
Old 11-30-2018, 07:16 AM
HerbP HerbP is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TechnicalMagic View Post
Hi everyone, I purchased a 2011 750li and I am a complete newbie. I am having shifting issues with the car. I have one permanent code 400635 and 3 intermittent codes 20A608 20A504 1D3901. After reading I suspect it might be a mechatronic problem. However, if anyone has experience or can further help guide me in the right direction that would be great. I want to order a solenoid kit but want to make sure I am on the right path. Thank you in advance for any suggestions or help.
Since you are a Newbie, have you tried charging the battery? If you have just recently changed the battery, did you register it to the car. An unregistered battery can cause EGS problems. BMW states the fluid is lifetime fluid, but it should be changed every 50k miles. If you can turn some wrenches, you can drop the Mechatronics unit, & test the solenoids. The valve body is easy to drop, but getting the MEcatronics rear seal in & out can be a challenge.
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  #5  
Old 11-30-2018, 09:35 AM
TechnicalMagic TechnicalMagic is offline
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Thank you for the suggestions, I have not done anything with the battery. I am very mechanically inclined and found a great step by step here:

https://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/at...hmentid=341641

I hope to drop the fluid next week, it rained a little last week and the garage is a mess.
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  #6  
Old 11-30-2018, 06:21 PM
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wjhughes420384 wjhughes420384 is offline
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change your tranny fluid twice about 1000 miles apart, it will make the world of difference. also reset your tranny to factory defaults. don't start the car, just get in and push the start button without your foot on the brake so the car wakes up. then push the gas pedal to the floor and hold it there for at least 30 seconds. You will be amazed, the tranny will forget everything it learned from previous drivers and will be just as it was when built
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  #7  
Old 12-01-2018, 06:55 AM
Nasty750 Nasty750 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wjhughes420384 View Post
change your tranny fluid twice about 1000 miles apart, it will make the world of difference. also reset your tranny to factory defaults. don't start the car, just get in and push the start button without your foot on the brake so the car wakes up. then push the gas pedal to the floor and hold it there for at least 30 seconds. You will be amazed, the tranny will forget everything it learned from previous drivers and will be just as it was when built


Is that really true? Iíve heard conflicting statements about that process that itís an urban legend or once someone tries that process they start having problems with their tranny. Can we get some corroboration in that.


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  #8  
Old 12-01-2018, 10:00 AM
TechnicalMagic TechnicalMagic is offline
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I too have read conflicting thoughts about the processes of resetting drive adaptations. I think resetting with programming is perhaps the best and maybe only method?
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  #9  
Old 12-01-2018, 01:49 PM
Robin750 Robin750 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nasty750 View Post
Is that really true? Iíve heard conflicting statements about that process that itís an urban legend or once someone tries that process they start having problems with their tranny. Can we get some corroboration in that.
It's not necessarily conflicting or untrue. If your transmission is already having problems or just starting to, changing the fluid can make things worse as the additional friction from the dirty fluid may be what is keeping it running. If the problems are caused by dirty fluid or filter, then of course changing the fluid and filter will fix the issue. Until you change the fluid, you won't know what is the cause.

Quote:
Originally Posted by TechnicalMagic View Post
I too have read conflicting thoughts about the processes of resetting drive adaptations. I think resetting with programming is perhaps the best and maybe only method?
There are two reset procedures, drive style adaptations (done using the gas pedal) and transmission adaptations (done using ISTA). They are for different purposes.

Resetting the transmission adaptations is usually not a problem, but it may cause unusual shifting behaviors for some time after the reset. If the transmission is working properly, it will be able to identify the correct pressures and timing to compensate for wear.
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  #10  
Old 12-01-2018, 06:12 PM
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wjhughes420384 wjhughes420384 is offline
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I do the reset every time I get back from a track event. the tranny seems to learn some rather harsh shifting at the track
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  #11  
Old 12-01-2018, 11:13 PM
TechnicalMagic TechnicalMagic is offline
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Thank you for a better understanding, can you get me started with ISTA I'd love to setup an old laptop and clear the transmission adaptations. I'll be ordering a Coding Cable similar to this one:

Coding Cable OBD to Ethernet for E-SYS OBD2 to RJ45 CAT6 for BMW F-series/i3

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?m...2F322552801164

I have an old IBM laptop with Windows XP, will it work? I switched to Mac a while ago.

I found this beginners guide: https://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sh.../936877?page=6

I also found a nice PDF on the installation guide, however, I have become discouraged since I do not meet the minimum requirements.

Has any one had luck running ISTA+ on a Windows XP machine?

https://www.motor-talk.de/forum/akti...hmentId=750191

Great community! Thank you!
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  #12  
Old 12-02-2018, 01:04 PM
Robin750 Robin750 is offline
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The application is somewhat resource intensive and requires .NET 4.6, so these might limit what you can do on an old Windows XP laptop and also test your patience. You can try to see if the pre-reqs install and go from there. Worst case, you can always get a decent retired business laptop from eBay such as a Dell Latitude.

I have a Surface Pro 3 with ISTA and E-Sys that I keep in the trunk of my car. Using ISTA on it seems to be the only real-world use case that I can find for the touchscreen and tablet mode on a Windows machine...
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  #13  
Old 12-02-2018, 03:08 PM
TechnicalMagic TechnicalMagic is offline
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That's a great idea Surface in the trunk! I'll get my hands on one soon. Great excuse to get a Surface, they come in handy sometimes.

Thanks!
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