refrigerant in 1997 e39, R12 or R134? - Bimmerfest - BMW Forums



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E39 (1997 - 2003)
The BMW 5-Series (E39 chassis) was introduced in the United States as a 1997 model year car and lasted until the 2004 when the E60 chassis was released. The United States saw several variations including the 525i, 528i, 530i and 540i. -- View the E39 Wiki

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  #1  
Old 01-06-2014, 04:33 AM
Kapten_sjovild Kapten_sjovild is offline
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refrigerant in 1997 e39, R12 or R134?

Hello! I got a little work to do on tha air condition on my car, and i wonder if there are any chances i have the freon R12 in my car? In that case i dont think i want to tuch the system my self....
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  #2  
Old 01-06-2014, 04:38 AM
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mjalloul11 mjalloul11 is offline
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R134 is the kind on all e39
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  #3  
Old 01-06-2014, 04:47 AM
Kapten_sjovild Kapten_sjovild is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mjalloul11 View Post
R134 is the kind on all e39
Ok i hope you are right!

I though so too, but then i saw this http://www.alibaba.com/product-gs/72...R_FOR_BMW.html
so i though that maybe the first years of e39 used r12??
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Old 01-06-2014, 10:11 AM
edjack edjack is offline
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R12 has been banned in automotive A/C systems for decades. In fact, the Europeans started the push to eliminate it.

There is a sticker under the bonnet that identifies the R134a in the system.
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  #5  
Old 01-06-2014, 12:31 PM
Kapten_sjovild Kapten_sjovild is offline
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I think it was somewere in middle of 90s it were banned? it does not surprise me!

Well, i cant find anything about the cold system under the bonnet... Is it possible to look up somehow using VIN?
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Old 01-06-2014, 12:58 PM
mhobryan mhobryan is offline
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1991 was the last year R12 was allowed to be used in automotive applications in the U.S. As the OP is in Sweden, don't know what their regs. are. However, I would be more suspect that the description in the link the OP posted is wrong because the description reads E39 5 Series R12 95-97 and that it should have read R134..... wasn't 1996 the first year for the E39 in Europe, and 1997 in the US? By 1996 R12 was banned in nearly all countries.

If you are looking at A/C condensers because yours is bad, if on the fluke chance yo do have R12, you might as well switch over to 134a anyways, as R12 is very hard to find and very $$$. The switch is pretty easy too.
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Old 01-06-2014, 01:10 PM
Kapten_sjovild Kapten_sjovild is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mhobryan View Post
1991 was the last year R12 was allowed to be used in automotive applications in the U.S. As the OP is in Sweden, don't know what their regs. are. However, I would be more suspect that the description in the link the OP posted is wrong because the description reads E39 5 Series R12 95-97 and that it should have read R134..... wasn't 1996 the first year for the E39 in Europe, and 1997 in the US? By 1996 R12 was banned in nearly all countries.

If you are looking at A/C condensers because yours is bad, if on the fluke chance yo do have R12, you might as well switch over to 134a anyways, as R12 is very hard to find and very $$$. The switch is pretty easy too.
ok good, then it is surely wrong in the link! Sweden's usually not later than any other countries when it comes to environmental issues. My car is made 1997.04

My A/C is working perfectly! Its a shame that i have to disassembly the system, but i am rebuilding the car and I want to take out the engine and gearbox
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Old 01-06-2014, 01:21 PM
djmjd djmjd is offline
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1994 was the switchover year in the USA. If you've got a '94 or newer car it should have R134a.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dichlorodifluoromethane

Last edited by djmjd; 01-06-2014 at 01:22 PM.
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  #9  
Old 01-06-2014, 05:49 PM
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BMW E39 fluid summary printout for your glovebox (1)

Specifically:
- A/C: Air conditioner refrigerant & PAG oil (1) & how to refill your A/C system (1) (2) (3) (4) & what to use to rid yourself of the BMW gym sock stink (1)

- Air conditioner: Refrigerant 134a (aka R-134a) with poly alkylene glycol oil, sometimes referred to as poly alkaline glycol oil (aka PAG refrigerant oil). Bentley book II, 640-2 & 640-3 & 640-23. The PAG oil is known by other names such as ND8, PAG46, and BMW PN: 82.11.1.468.042 and travels with the refrigerant as a mist. Best to empty and then refill refrigerant by total weight; second best is the evaporator temperature method (i.e., in the shade, ambient temperature less than about 75F and relative humidity below about 60% - then add R-134a until the evaporator exit air temperature with A/C set on max at 60F is 4C/39F or colder - the best you can do without MoDIS is probably the center-dash vent at something like 10C/50F); third best is the pressure method (i.e., add refrigerant until the low-pressure side is 25 psi to 45 psi ... aim for around 32 psi (assuming shade, ambient, & humidity listed prior); worst is by can weight (e.g., adding a 12oz by weight can or a 16oz can by weight but the AC is a critical-charge system that won't tolerate refrigerant quantities much outside + or - .05 kg). [Volume: E39's built up to 12/97 contain 1,225 grams +/- 25 grams (2.70 lbs +/- 0.05 lbs) of R-134a; E39s built after 12/97 contain 750 grams +/- 10 grams (1.65 lb +/- 0.03lb) of R-134a. The amount of PAG oil misted in the system is said to be about 1 ounce by volume.] Replacement Interval: Lifetime charge (sometimes the system develops a leak though).
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  #10  
Old 01-10-2014, 12:26 PM
Kapten_sjovild Kapten_sjovild is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by djmjd View Post
1994 was the switchover year in the USA. If you've got a '94 or newer car it should have R134a.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dichlorodifluoromethane
Ok thanks!

Quote:
Originally Posted by bluebee View Post
BMW E39 fluid summary printout for your glovebox (1)

Specifically:
- A/C: Air conditioner refrigerant & PAG oil (1) & how to refill your A/C system (1) (2) (3) (4) & what to use to rid yourself of the BMW gym sock stink (1)

- Air conditioner: Refrigerant 134a (aka R-134a) with poly alkylene glycol oil, sometimes referred to as poly alkaline glycol oil (aka PAG refrigerant oil). Bentley book II, 640-2 & 640-3 & 640-23. The PAG oil is known by other names such as ND8, PAG46, and BMW PN: 82.11.1.468.042 and travels with the refrigerant as a mist. Best to empty and then refill refrigerant by total weight; second best is the evaporator temperature method (i.e., in the shade, ambient temperature less than about 75F and relative humidity below about 60% - then add R-134a until the evaporator exit air temperature with A/C set on max at 60F is 4C/39F or colder - the best you can do without MoDIS is probably the center-dash vent at something like 10C/50F); third best is the pressure method (i.e., add refrigerant until the low-pressure side is 25 psi to 45 psi ... aim for around 32 psi (assuming shade, ambient, & humidity listed prior); worst is by can weight (e.g., adding a 12oz by weight can or a 16oz can by weight but the AC is a critical-charge system that won't tolerate refrigerant quantities much outside + or - .05 kg). [Volume: E39's built up to 12/97 contain 1,225 grams +/- 25 grams (2.70 lbs +/- 0.05 lbs) of R-134a; E39s built after 12/97 contain 750 grams +/- 10 grams (1.65 lb +/- 0.03lb) of R-134a. The amount of PAG oil misted in the system is said to be about 1 ounce by volume.] Replacement Interval: Lifetime charge (sometimes the system develops a leak though).
Alright thank you very much!! Thats ecverything and more i need to know about the A/C system! Actualy i am not sure i am going to mount the A/C system again, maybe it would be funnier to replace them by a turbocharger and intercooler??
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  #11  
Old 01-10-2014, 07:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kapten_sjovild View Post
turbocharger and intercooler??
- CAI 101 should I do it or not (1) and which is better, stock or aftermarket cold air intake (1) (2) & a home-made CAI (1) & the general consensus on the effectiveness of an aftermarket CAI versus the stock BMW CAI (1) (2) (3) (4) (5) & how to reduce the risk of hydro lock (1) (2) & what about a K&N oiled air filter over the stock air filter (1) & a forced induction group buy (1) and adding nitrous oxide to your E39 (1) & links to suppliers to improve performance of your E39 (1)
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See also: E39 Bestlinks & How to easily find what you need
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  #12  
Old 01-13-2014, 10:52 AM
Kapten_sjovild Kapten_sjovild is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bluebee View Post
- CAI 101 should I do it or not (1) and which is better, stock or aftermarket cold air intake (1) (2) & a home-made CAI (1) & the general consensus on the effectiveness of an aftermarket CAI versus the stock BMW CAI (1) (2) (3) (4) (5) & how to reduce the risk of hydro lock (1) (2) & what about a K&N oiled air filter over the stock air filter (1) & a forced induction group buy (1) and adding nitrous oxide to your E39 (1) & links to suppliers to improve performance of your E39 (1)
Thanks again!
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