In your picture 2A70 says “error would not cause a warning lamp to light up” which means you can probably ignore it for now.
The other error code is related to the MAP sensor. You’ll need to diagnose the erroneous readings from that sensor. I would not recommend just replacing it until you verify the cause of the error.
In your picture 2A70 says "error would not cause a warning lamp to light up" which means you can probably ignore it for now.
The other error code is related to the MAP sensor. You'll need to diagnose the erroneous readings from that sensor. I would not recommend just replacing it until you verify the cause of the error.
I have been struggling with code 2A70 for few months now. At first there was codes 2A67 Valvetronic Internal Fault, 2A6B Valvetronic Power Limitation and 2A70 Valvetronic Servomotor. Car went to limp-mode many times but after changing servomotor the car has ran fine. Only a fault code 2A70 persists, but not in the dash. Please, let me know how do you do with your fault..
No issue , I checked first my fault code 2D32, as it seems that wiring was clean I ordered a new MAP sensor. Wait for the part to change it in next days.
For 2A70, if you already changed the valvetronic part , did you calibrate it with using ISTA ? Some youtube vids speaks about waiting 30 sec bbefore engine start , somes websites speak abouts recalibrate it with ISTA tool , it is described as "ISTA valvetronic adaptation".
If my fault code 2D32 disappear by changing MAP sensor I will check the second issue and will let you know if I find something helpful.
I've heard that to try checking if your battery cable recall was done as it can cause valvetronic issues due to poor connection
you said you replaced the motor did/can you check the seal in the middle of the valve cover for the valvetronic sensor. If its leaking, the sensor is probably FUBARD
I think this happend on my 1'er replaced and the code went !
in my case I had valvetronic errors and some erratic idle
now smooth as a babies butt
Thank you Jaye944 for your messages. I have to check the battery cable.
I guess you mean eccentric shaft sensor..yes, the sensor connector was a little bit oily. Changed all the seals and connector is clean now. My car is idling little bit unstable. This is what i was afraid of, this fault isn't cheap to repair.
yes correct the ESS, I keep forgetting it's name, in my case that was it, I had it done under warantee, theye didnt replace just the gaskets, or they may have :O hmmm I'm not sure, I'd have to check the repair ticket, I didnt worry too much as I didnt pay for it
but did you actually replace the ESS ? you did the seals, I'm betting it's the actual sensor, that is what this code is pointing to IMHO
it's just the digging about that I read on it, also my error on my 128 related to the valvtronic (can't remember the codes) but it was due in my case to the oil leak, I can't remember if they did replace the ESS or it was just the oil fouling it.
I mention it only because the you've replaced the valvetronic, in the same conversation my tech mentioned "This could be a faulty power supply to the valvetronic motor or a faulty motor" and also mentioned the battery cable recall,
I don't have any info on it other than that, may wanna google it up.
I can't make sense of the fault diagnosis (sorry) I use INPA4/ISTA4 in english, from what I know, when I pull up the fault codes, it will pull up ALL the codes, what millage and whether current (i.e. hard on) it does sometimes mention and code
and have a 0 next to it essential saying not active, the problem is that you need to keep an eye on if the code comes and goes, which means it's intermittant.
you could try clearing the codes and monitoring and or pulling the negative battery terminal and leaving off for 30minutes to reset the modules
The other thing, I was looking at various videos (research) for something else and though removing the valvtronic is relatively simple I think there is a specific way to put it back otherwise you could have problems
not sure what and how, but something I did remember.
I'd also check the wiring harness to the motor (v/tronic) as well
" before starting your car MAKE SURE YOU CALIBRATE THE MOTOR. Turn the car on without putting your foot on the brakes and let it do it***8217;s thing for about 30 sec. Turn your car off and I would honestly do it a second time just to be safe. "
this is from a Z4 video, this might help, not sure if relevant in your case/engine
Thank you for your messages. Yes i did the calibration by switching ignition on for about minute, not start. Did it twice. After that started the motor, it ran quite of erratic but after a little drive it balanced.
Definitely servomotor was bad, because there has not been faults in the dash since that.
Im going to try unplugging the battery over night, let's see what happens.
Thank you for your messages. Yes i did the calibration by switching ignition on for about minute, not start. Did it twice. After that started the motor, it ran quite of erratic but after a little drive it balanced.
Definitely servomotor was bad, because there has not been faults in the dash since that.
Im going to try unplugging the battery over night, let's see what happens.
hey, thats good, give it a try and get back to us, make sure the boot can be opened as you don't wanna pull the battery and lock the boot !
also check the voltages
You do what?? Why? Where did you learn that? This is misleading info.
There are two sure ways of re-learn both end positions of the valvetronic motor.
1) Using INPA.
First, you delete the valvetronic adaptation.
Exit the program and switch the car completely off.
Remove the key and let the DME to sleep in for 5 minutes.
Then plug the ignition key back in, and turn ignition on without starting the engine.
If you have luck you will hear how the motor cycling itself.
If not, connect INPA and re-learn the motor under "System -> VVT"
Then switch off ignition once again and let the DME sleep in for 5 Minutes.
Now you should be done and everything should work.
2) Without INPA.
As described above, just turn ignition on without starting the engine. Do not do anything else. After 3-4 seconds the VVT motor will start moving and re-learning its end positions. Let the ignition on for 20 seconds to be sure.
Then switch ignition off, remove the key, close the car, let it sleep in for 5 minutes.
It must work afterwards for sure if VVT motor and sensors are in working condition!
Sorry guys didn't have time to take care of my car... I changed MAP sensor and cleaned default code several time. But errors codes 2d32 and 2a70 still there. After few checks there is some oil leak... By checking deeper there is some oil in intake manifold ... Will check further tomorrow...
have you found the reason you got oil in the intake manifold? I have the same error codes and also oil in the intake.
hope you got things fixed by now!
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