BimmerFest BMW Forum banner

How to replace Subframe bushing

6K views 17 replies 9 participants last post by  mfdmaster 
#1 ·
How to replace Subframe bushing

Hi, I just replacd my subframe bushing so I thought i would write it up.

Tools needed

1. 22mm socket (with socket wrench)
2. 13 mm socket
3. Floor jack
4. 2 jack stands
5. boards or other items to make jacks higher
6. Sawzal and medium length good blade 9should have more then 1
7. small floor jack
8. 2 lengths of 3 feet long chain (size used for trailer hitches)
9. The little links for chains you can unscrew and take off.
10. drill with 1/2 inch hole maker (can not think of name)

11. good cold rolled chisel
12. hammer (heavier the better, as long as you can use it)
13. Goggles and mouth cover for when drilling and cutting
14. big pliers
15. dish soap
16. fine sand paper

1st step: put bushings in a freezer one week before job.

2nd step: remove the plate below the bushing, it has 1 22mm and 2 13mm nuts holding it on.

3rd step: remove the rear seat. You will see the seat belt receptors on the sides next to the door. Each is held on by a 17mm, below that under the foam is a spot of black stuff, you have to remove that it get to the bolt holding the subframe. You need to remove this bolt. I was able to put a wooden board under the bottom of the bolt and whack it with a hammer and it came out. If this does not work I would suggest spraying it with a lot of anti-seize stuff, if that does not help you can try beating on it with a bigger hammer or using heat from a torch.

4th step : jack the car up to a height where you can get the sawzal up into the subframe bushing hole. Place the jack stands under the car so that they are not in your way.

5th step: using the sawzal and the drill to remove the center metal piece that the bolt goes through, if you are lucky it will just fall out like mine did.

5th step: You need to remove the 2 metal pieces on the sides of the bushing. I did this with the drill after I broke my blade on the sawzal. I use the big pliers to pull them out the rest of the way.

7th step: This is where you use the chisel to cut a line up the side of the metal sheath in the bushing. You can also do this with the sawzal. Once you have cut it all the way, you want to use the chisel to knock the bushing in so that it will loosen and can be removed. Then clean the hole out to where it is nice and smooth. I used 150 grain sand paper.

8th step: Now you have the bushing out. So get your cold bushing out of the freezer. You can also lower you car to about 2 or 3 inches higher then normal.

9th step. take the 2 chains and wrap then around the subframe. The picture is on its side.


10th step: place the small jack under subframe, I placed a 2 inch board to raise the jack higher to make it easier, but it was not necessary. Then soap up the bushing and place the subframe on the jack. Slowly jack the bushing up to the hole that it is going into. You have to make sure that the bushing is mated up to the 2 notches or bumps on the sides of the subframe hole. You will then jack the bushing up as high as you can before the car starts to rise. Then let the small jack down.

11th step: This is where you attach the chains to the jack turning it in to a press. I attached 1 chain to each side of the jack. using the links that you can take off and on.



12th step: Slowly jack the jack up. You will have to reposition the jack a number of times to make sure that bushing is going up nice and straight. But make sure that you stop every few jacks so the bushing can slowly go up. once you have make the bushing nice and flush to the subframe you need to but everything back together.

13th step repeat for the other side.

This took me about 1 1/2 hours. I used the drill a lot more then the sawzal.

So if you have any comments or thoughts please let me know.
 
See less See more
4
#4 ·
Nice write-up, even with limited pictures. That looks like a spade wood bit you used, how long did that last when you're drilling metal?

Sent from my Droid Incredible
 
#15 ·
This is an older post but old stuff is always good :) Looks like the rear subframe bushings on my E34 need replacement. The mechanic said this was a major job since it probably needed the subframe to be removed. He said if it didn't bother me don't worry about it. It doesn't really apart from clunking noises when I go over bumps. Anyway took a look at Youtube and found this video on a guy doing the same job on the same model car as mine without removing the subframe and without a lift



It doesn't look particularly hard (but well beyond my tools and expertise) but I wonder if my garage would do it rather than remove the subframe. Seems the key part of his process is the cylindrical pipe that is slightly smaller in diameter than the bushing that is used to push out the bushing. That appears to be the hardest part of the job and his solution is very clever from what I can tell from other videos where people cut the bushing out, try to pull it out etc.

What do people think?
 
#16 ·
South26's procedure is the one I followed, more or less. It certainly can be done without removing the subframe from the car.

I have seen the central bolt that anchors the subframe bushing seize up in the aluminum sleeve in the center of the bushing. Galvanic corrosion can be a real fight to overcome, requiring a torch and/or an air hammer.
 
#17 ·
That is reassuring. My car is of course quite old but in its lifetime it's always been garaged and never in a harsh climate so no snow or salt on the road. I see in the video the guy removes that bolt just with a hammer and large wrench head so I guess he was lucky. He is based in Australia so probably also in a more temperate climate.

Now my job is to as if my garage will do this Must be easier than lifting the car, removing the subframe and burning the bush off?
 
#18 · (Edited)
I try not to use a torch close to any paint/fuel or rubber parts. So when I removed my rear sway bar bushings, I removed the bolt, then I simply cut the rubber with a fine metal hack saw and cut the outer metal ring of the bushing. Be careful not to cut too deep otherwise you cut into the surrounding frame. Then you can pry the remaining parts out with a big flat head screw driver. After that you can use a bushing removal/installation set from Autozone (free), put a bit of Vaseline/oil on the rubber and press it in from below. P.S: Forgot to mention, that technique only works on a lift, because the hack saw is too big to fit under the car if not lifted.
 
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top