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Old 06-13-2018, 02:30 PM
e90.ty e90.ty is offline
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Carbon Cleaning

I just bought a mint 2009 tasman green 328i will every possible feature and a manual transmission and I would like for it to last a long time. I know the n52 motor has had carbon buildup problems and I'm trying to see what I can do as removal techniques it has 110k miles on it as we speak.

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Old 06-13-2018, 03:00 PM
rbmwiv rbmwiv is offline
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Carbon Cleaning

The way we do it at the shop is get a can of liqui moly valve clean. Locate a good vacuum hose and if itís short you can get plastic nipples and extra hose at any auto parts store to extend it so that you have enough to work with. Get the engine up to operation temperature and Remove that vacuum hose and have the car running let the vacuum hose slowly suck the bottle down, if you go to fast it will cause the engine to die. But you want that to happen at the end. When the bottle is close to empty let it suck enough to make the engine die. Then let it sit for 15-20 minuets crank it up. It will smoke like crazy and run a little rough but after a few minutes of running and driving it quits smoking and smooths out. It surprisingly works very good. I have looked at the valves and inside of the combustion chamber with a borescope. Night and day difference. I have been using that trick for over 25 years. In the last few years with the abundance of cheap usb borescopes I have been able to verify what I was sure was happening. The instructions I gave arenít on the bottle. Just a old mechanics trick that I was taught when I first started. You can also do that trick with water and get ok results but using concentrated carbon cleaner works much better. Putting it in the gas tank per instructions I did a comparison to one done per instructions on the bottle and the other the way I said. After 1000 miles with a can in every tank there was no noticeable change in the buildup on the valves. My way looked nice and clean. Not to mention that I went through 5 bottles on the by the book.


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Old 06-13-2018, 03:08 PM
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acoste acoste is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by e90.ty View Post
I just bought a mint 2009 tasman green 328i will every possible feature and a manual transmission and I would like for it to last a long time. I know the n52 motor has had carbon buildup problems and I'm trying to see what I can do as removal techniques it has 110k miles on it as we speak.

Thanks
As far as I remember N52 has port injection and therefore is not prone to carbon buildup.
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Old 06-13-2018, 04:05 PM
rbmwiv rbmwiv is offline
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You are correct sir. I had m5xs on the brain.


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Old 06-13-2018, 04:21 PM
aleks001 aleks001 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by e90.ty View Post
I just bought a mint 2009 tasman green 328i will every possible feature and a manual transmission and I would like for it to last a long time. I know the n52 motor has had carbon buildup problems and I'm trying to see what I can do as removal techniques it has 110k miles on it as we speak.

Thanks
Unless your certain it has carbon build up leave it alone. These engines are port injected and don't suffer the carbon issue of the direct injection N54 and N55's. I think you are confusing the engines.
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Old 06-13-2018, 04:23 PM
Inline 6IX Inline 6IX is offline
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N52 has zero issues with carbon buildup anywhere on the motor
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Old 06-13-2018, 05:33 PM
gbalthrop gbalthrop is online now
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Quote:
Originally Posted by e90.ty View Post
I just bought a mint 2009 tasman green 328i will every possible feature and a manual transmission and I would like for it to last a long time. I know the n52 motor has had carbon buildup problems and I'm trying to see what I can do as removal techniques it has 110k miles on it as we speak.
Welcome to the Forum!

As others have stated, direct injection N54 & N55 engines (Turbo) require periodic walnut blasting or other measures to prevent/correct carbon buildup at the intake valve area.

NOT SO with the N52 engine or most other "Port Injection" engines where the injector spray washes the intake valves & ports (presuming use of fuel containing Techron fuel system cleaner, or adding a bottle of that to your fuel tank periodically).

More on the FUN side, do periodic (daily ;-) "Italian Tuneups" where you accelerate WOT to redline in 1st & 2nd to help "blow out the carbon." Honest officer, it works, and I'm sticking to my story.

If you don't know when the plugs were last changed, do THAT. You will probably feel a performance difference, and if you do NOT change them ~ every 50,000 miles, you may find you have "misfire" codes set when you DO accelerate hard to redline, along with injector cutout and VERY rough running until the SES light goes out and normal performance returns.

George
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Old 06-13-2018, 06:23 PM
Inline 6IX Inline 6IX is offline
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Originally Posted by gbalthrop View Post
Welcome to the Forum!

As others have stated, direct injection N54 & N55 engines (Turbo) require periodic walnut blasting or other measures to prevent/correct carbon buildup at the intake valve area.

NOT SO with the N52 engine or most other "Port Injection" engines where the injector spray washes the intake valves & ports (presuming use of fuel containing Techron fuel system cleaner, or adding a bottle of that to your fuel tank periodically).

More on the FUN side, do periodic (daily ;-) "Italian Tuneups" where you accelerate WOT to redline in 1st & 2nd to help "blow out the carbon." Honest officer, it works, and I'm sticking to my story.

If you don't know when the plugs were last changed, do THAT. You will probably feel a performance difference, and if you do NOT change them ~ every 50,000 miles, you may find you have "misfire" codes set when you DO accelerate hard to redline, along with injector cutout and VERY rough running until the SES light goes out and normal performance returns.

George
-not just on the intake valves, but the whole engine in general such as the top of the pistons. I remember someone over at E90Post took apart an N52 with over 400K KM on it, was leaking from every single possible gasket, but the engine still ran perfectly fine. This motor is tough as nails. there wasnt any carbon buildup anywhere to be found.

- I changed out my spark plugs at roughly 75K miles, and they were in pretty sh*t shape. they werent causing any misfire codes though, that was thanks to a faulty ignition coil on cylinder #4. I always recommend changing your spark plugs on time because if you don't, your ignition coils will start to go out and that's what will really cause a misfire and rough running at high RPM, not to mention stuttering and a hesitation to accelerate in the lower rpm's. The N52 does not have any sort of fuel pump or injector issues however.

- The full throttle acceleration method to keep things clean surely does work to clean out your injectors, exhaust system etc. let's say you bought a 328i that was driven conservatively under 3000RPM for it's whole life and do 2-3 full throttle pulls in a row. you will notice a very strong smell coming from the exhaust as you clear things out. This is a good thing. I will say though, that full throttle acceleration daily is rather excessive - once a week would be totally sufficient. Doesn't matter though, the N52 is one tough f*ckin motor and sure can take some serious abuse without skipping a beat.

- Now, for owners with 60K+ miles and especially ones that have been following BMW's OCI throughout the cars life, open up the oil filler cap and take a peek inside. if you notice sludge/crusty sh*t forming on the inside of the oil cap, or on parts within the engine such as the valve spring, I would strongly suggest either using some sort of engine additive or simply changing your oil more often. Obviously I would suggest one oil change with Shell Rotella, but let's leave that aside for now so I don't get blasted to the moon and back again. that stuff cleaned out my engine which was starting to look dirty on the inside quite beautifully.
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Old 12-20-2018, 10:36 AM
shaun.marsh shaun.marsh is offline
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Does it clean the bits that get the dirtiest ie back of the valves Egr etc that effect power?

please advice me guyz
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Old 12-20-2018, 11:57 AM
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need4speed need4speed is offline
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Originally Posted by acoste View Post
As far as I remember N52 has port injection and therefore is not prone to carbon buildup.
correct
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  #11  
Old 01-02-2019, 09:27 PM
bimmer328xi bimmer328xi is offline
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I just used Seafoam where I dumped 16oz bottle in 1/2 of a tank per the instructions to clean out the injectors. I believe this works to remove carbon as well and does have some benefits. The other option with seafoam is that you can spray it into the engine via the vaccum hose and it will get sucked in there and burned and shoot out white smoke from the carbon. You will see some videos on this on youtube. I think it works well enough that its not worth the investment in a walnut blaster and hose. The engine doesnt have to be carbon free, just small deposits. You can also use seafoam directly in the engine oil and drive it hard then replace the oil. All 3 methods will remove some carbon to a greater or lessor extent. Doing all three sequentially will probably clean even heavy deposits.
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