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E90/E91/E92/E93 (2006 - 2013)
The E9X is the 4th evolution of the BMW 3 series including a highly tuned twin turbo 335i variant pushing out 300hp and 300 ft. lbs. of torque. BMW continues to show that it sets the bar for true driving performance! -- View the E9X Wiki |
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#51
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@ddthomas415: i answered all your questions in the email. Have you received it?
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#52
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Quote:
you only decided to reply to my messages after i reached out for assistance from other forum member. I open a paypal dispute to resolve this issue |
#53
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My friend, i was on holiday until today something i told you in each email and message i sent you.
You always have the option to return the items and you will get a full refund. Is not my fault that after i sent you wiring instructions twice by email you had to reach to somebody else for help and in the end you decided to return the adapter because you dont know how to install it. |
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#54
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Still getting the same message.
![]() Anyone have a clue? I don't want to hook everything up to find out something is wrong. Right now I have the screen, emulate, hu, Bluetooth, GPS, and antenna hooked up. I have the idrive installed without the touch ecu. I haven't rewired the odb2 port. I hooked up the touch ecu but get the same message. The idrive doesn't do anything and it just says on that message. |
#55
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Your NBT unit is coded for Logic7 Amp and your car does not have the L7 ampliffier, hence the error message.
You need to code NBT according to your car's options, nothing to worry about at this point. ![]() |
#56
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Thanks. I'm guessing the IDrive isn't working because I have it wired before the emulator not after like TarveN had to do. Can you confirm this before I rewire it. 2008 X5.
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#57
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Depends which idrive controller you have.
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#58
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It's a touch IDrive with the ecu. I purchased the complete setup from you.
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#59
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Touch controller and touch ECU is wired between the NBT and the emulator since it should be on the high speed bus (CAN2). My old controller is wired after the emulator using the original idrive controller wiring on the low speed bus (CAN1).
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#60
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TarveN is correct you need to wire touch idrive and ecu on the can bus between NBT and emulator. He has different idrive controller so he had to wire it after.
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#61
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I have installed a combox it was working but suddenly it stopped so I checked the voltage to combox no voltage but I can't find which fuse is used for it and before I had just tcu
What is fuse number for combox? Please i need help Thank you in advance |
#62
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NBT has built in combox functionality. Not sure why you have a combox, unless you're pairing it with CIC.
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#63
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Yes I do. I have cic too and it works correctly. Just no luck to find fuse number
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#64
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Not sure why it's not working then. I used the 4 original wires for the CCC idrive which are power, ground, can+, can-.
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#65
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Because you have touch controller you need to replace the CAN wires in the original CCC connector with 2 new can wires coming directly from NBT unit AFTER EMULATOR.
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#66
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The CAN wires before and after the emulator runs at different speeds. The existing 4 wires are the CAN wires connected to the low speed side. The new touch controller and ECU are high speed devices and need to be connected to the high speed side. You'll need to pull two new CAN wires to the controller for the high speed lines.
Think of the e-series emulator as not just a VIN activator, but also a translator that translates messages between two communications protocols running at different speeds. We need this because NBT uses the faster CAN2 and cannot natively communicate with the e-series' CAN1 interface. |
#67
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Quote:
Quote:
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#68
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Right. Wire it up in parallel.
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#69
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#70
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Instructions were like 60 pages long, very detailed and easy to read. Everything is working, and I coded the NBT using free utility which they supply. |
#71
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Thanks for the awesome DIY. I will definitely be referencing it if/when I take the plunge myself.
Sorry if you had answered this, but I didn't see it in the 3 pages I skimmed. Why bother cutting the metal shroud for the NBT screen when you could have just left it off? Looks like its just there for structural support and attachment to the F3x dash, but the screen and electronics behind it would be protected by the E9x screen housing, no? |
#72
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Quote:
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#73
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On E6x, the F30 screen with metal back housing does not fit into the original CCC plastic housing, which is why the excess metal needs to be removed. I assume this is the case for E9x too.
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#74
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If you don't use the metal backing, then there's less plastic to trim away. I kept the metal backing on since it just pushes against the back piece of the original e9x screen housing, lowering the stress on the double sided foam tape. This way, the foam tape is less likely to come off over the years, and even if it does, the screen will still stay in place.
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#75
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Quote:
I opened my DCAN cable and found that pins 7 and 8 are soldered together. I can see how this could cause problems when pin 8 is connected to ETH-A. Are pins 7 and 8 the ones you needed to disconnect in DCAN cable? If thats the case, then disconnecting pins 7 and 8 in my own DCAN cable resolves this for me, but what about BMW service and/or cars next owner? They are not going to disconnect these pins in their cables. Can this cause damage to car electronics or NBT? I'm starting to think that connecting a RJ-45 connector directly to the NBT wires is a better option. Of course this has it's own downside, i need to hard wire the ETH-A to +12V so the Ethernet is always on. Any idea if this is bad for NBT or can cause problems? Last edited by poisike; 02-25-2015 at 09:49 AM. |
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camera, ccc, cic, diy, e90, e91, e92, e93, idrive, nbt, retrofit |
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