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  #1  
Old 08-27-2019, 05:34 PM
Milt Mademan Milt Mademan is offline
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Issues with push button start

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After driving for awhile today, when I got home, my 2010 X5 wouldn't start after I turned it off. I drove for maybe 45-hour after work and needed to run in the house and get something then jet back out. Well, after returning to my car and trying to start it, it wouldn't. It was giving me the message "Ignition Switched On". After letting it sit for 20-30 minute, the car started right up and drove fine. It just started doing this today and has done it twice. I'll wait 20-30 minutes after driving and the car starts right up....what could be the issue?
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  #2  
Old 08-27-2019, 05:36 PM
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Doug Huffman Doug Huffman is offline
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Charge or replace the battery with a new charged one.
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Old 08-27-2019, 05:42 PM
ard ard is offline
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How old is the battery?

Have you noticed ANY anomalies of any kind? odd messages, etc?
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Alignment here: The Definitive Alignment Thread

OE is Original Equipment aka 'BMW Original Parts' aka 'What you buy at the BMW dealer with a BMW label'

OEM is Original Equipment Manufacturer... EITHER the company that made the OE part or.... A part this is identical to the OE part, but is sold by the OEM under their own label


OEM is not what BMW sells


http://www.bimmerzone.com/category/T...ricks_OEM.html

https://www.turnermotorsport.com/t-OEvsOEM
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Old 08-27-2019, 05:42 PM
Milt Mademan Milt Mademan is offline
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Thanks Doug, I thought about the battery but wanted to be sure. If I replace the battery, will the car need to be re-programmed? Trying to stay away from the dealer at all cost!!
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Old 08-27-2019, 05:45 PM
ard ard is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Milt Mademan View Post
Thanks Doug, I thought about the battery but wanted to be sure. If I replace the battery, will the car need to be re-programmed? Trying to stay away from the dealer at all cost!!
$200. Just buy the right one. Ton of posts on this

You "should" register the battery, but pretty easy to do- a single button press. Most decent euro shops will have a tool... $20? $50? It is a one minute job. Or buy one.

Dont stress about it- change the batt, then sometime in the next week or two, register it. SOme people dont...cars dont blow up
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Alignment here: The Definitive Alignment Thread

OE is Original Equipment aka 'BMW Original Parts' aka 'What you buy at the BMW dealer with a BMW label'

OEM is Original Equipment Manufacturer... EITHER the company that made the OE part or.... A part this is identical to the OE part, but is sold by the OEM under their own label


OEM is not what BMW sells


http://www.bimmerzone.com/category/T...ricks_OEM.html

https://www.turnermotorsport.com/t-OEvsOEM

Last edited by ard; 08-27-2019 at 05:46 PM.
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Old 08-27-2019, 05:45 PM
Milt Mademan Milt Mademan is offline
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ard, it keeps saying "left brake lamp malfunction" and, as far as how old is the battery? I have no idea. I just bought it in March/2019. No matter how many times I change the bulb, the message will go away for a month and then return!!
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Old 08-27-2019, 06:48 PM
320kplus 320kplus is offline
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Coincidentally My 2013 E70 35 XI
was for about the Last 2 weeks starting to show signs of a slow start but would always fire up. It Was occasional Until today when she finally would not start at all. I'm going to check the date on the battery and see how old it is because, she fired right up with one of those battery boost tools. I took her out and gave her a good run, and I just tried to starter about 20 minutes ago and she fired right backup. I stopped at the dealer and he said they charge about 60 bucks to register the battery to the vehicle. I'm going to do what 1 of the O p's suggested after I determine of course I do need a new battery. I just got this thing a couple months ago... I'll go by the dealer or an indie that has a tool and get it done that way.

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Old 08-27-2019, 06:50 PM
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2010xdrive35d 2010xdrive35d is online now
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Like Doug and ard pointed out... I found out just how quickly a failing battery can make things wonky. The intermittent not starting could be a direct result of that. Once you pull your battery and give it a fill charge and test then re-install if it checks out you'll know it's not that.

And as ard said just spend the $200 and get an AGM battery that's most likely the battery you have in there. I also have a 2010 and just replaced my battery 2 weeks ago. Decided to buy a scantool that would register the battery. But it also doubles as a code reader and resets the CBS like oil, brakes, and filters. Super handy since I'll be DIY on most everything on this car. Amazon has them for $88.50. AutoPHIX is the brand. They look identical to Foxwell, however those are little more but at the same time they cost more. It's all relative.
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Old 08-27-2019, 07:42 PM
twh twh is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Milt Mademan View Post
ard, it keeps saying "left brake lamp malfunction" and, as far as how old is the battery? I have no idea. I just bought it in March/2019. No matter how many times I change the bulb, the message will go away for a month and then return!!
You should have a closer look at the left brake light assembly. My wife's 2009 X5 had a similar message and it did not go away with a simple bulb replacement. This message came on for her car and this is what I found...

https://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sh...1&postcount=21
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Old 08-27-2019, 10:05 PM
ard ard is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by twh View Post
You should have a closer look at the left brake light assembly. My wife's 2009 X5 had a similar message and it did not go away with a simple bulb replacement. This message came on for her car and this is what I found...

https://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sh...1&postcount=21
Yup. Was going to suggest same- poor contact can lead to arcing that overheats the plastic, ultimately a failure.

Dont think this is related to OPs battery/start thing
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Alignment here: The Definitive Alignment Thread

OE is Original Equipment aka 'BMW Original Parts' aka 'What you buy at the BMW dealer with a BMW label'

OEM is Original Equipment Manufacturer... EITHER the company that made the OE part or.... A part this is identical to the OE part, but is sold by the OEM under their own label


OEM is not what BMW sells


http://www.bimmerzone.com/category/T...ricks_OEM.html

https://www.turnermotorsport.com/t-OEvsOEM
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  #11  
Old 08-28-2019, 02:09 AM
deroy deroy is offline
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If you press start without pressing the brake pedal, you get the ignition on, accompanied by that warning 'ignition on' IIRC.

Do the brake lights work? Does your car detect properly that the brake pedal is pressed when pressing start?
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  #12  
Old 08-28-2019, 04:51 PM
Milt Mademan Milt Mademan is offline
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Well the car started fine this morning and I took it to Autozone to get the battery tested. The battery is good and I then drove to work and turned the car off and on all day with no issue. After driving 25-30 miles home for the day, upon arriving in my driveway, I turned the car off and tried to turn it back on and it acted like it wanted to start but didn't. After letting it sit for 30 minutes, the car fired right up.....I have no idea what the issue is!!
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Old 08-28-2019, 05:31 PM
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Doug Huffman Doug Huffman is offline
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The battery. The wait from no start to weak start is recovering the surface charge that actually starts the car.

Buy a new proper battery. Properly bench charge it before installation. Register it sooner than later. Ampere-hours capacity is the ONLY meaningful specification.
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Scepticism is the chastity of the intellect, and it is shameful to surrender it too soon or to the first comer: there is nobility in preserving it coolly and proudly through long youth, until at last, in the ripeness of instinct and discretion, it can be safely exchanged for fidelity and happiness.
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Eschew eristical argumentation. I am responsible for what I write, not for your understanding of it.
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Old 08-28-2019, 07:04 PM
FredoinSF FredoinSF is online now
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Milt Mademan View Post
Well the car started fine this morning and I took it to Autozone to get the battery tested. The battery is good and I then drove to work and turned the car off and on all day with no issue. After driving 25-30 miles home for the day, upon arriving in my driveway, I turned the car off and tried to turn it back on and it acted like it wanted to start but didn't. After letting it sit for 30 minutes, the car fired right up.....I have no idea what the issue is!!
You never answered the question asking how old the battery was in post 3 - unless I missed it. At this point, going to assume it is the original battery or replacement greater than five years in which case DUDE!!! BUY A NEW BATTERY!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

These cars are known to exhibit funky behavior when the battery is in the process of failing yet you're going to trust the flunkies at AutoZone and their BS battery test to diagnose your formerly $70k plus German engineered pride and joy?
Don't be a cheap a$$ and try to save twenty bucks, make sure it's the right battery for the car. Some 'new' batteries may have been sitting for months, charge it up or drive the car 100 miles to make sure it gets charged.

Could be something else going on but until battery state is known, this thread is a waste of time for all involved.
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Old 08-28-2019, 08:47 PM
ard ard is offline
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Milt. If you are going to rely on Autozone to troubeshoot your car, why bother us?

Just do what they tell you. Dont post.

Good luck with your continued ownership....
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Alignment here: The Definitive Alignment Thread

OE is Original Equipment aka 'BMW Original Parts' aka 'What you buy at the BMW dealer with a BMW label'

OEM is Original Equipment Manufacturer... EITHER the company that made the OE part or.... A part this is identical to the OE part, but is sold by the OEM under their own label


OEM is not what BMW sells


http://www.bimmerzone.com/category/T...ricks_OEM.html

https://www.turnermotorsport.com/t-OEvsOEM
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  #16  
Old 08-28-2019, 09:03 PM
robnitro robnitro is offline
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From the symptoms, it's not a battery issue... What voltage are you getting at the under hood terminals while engine is running?
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Old 08-30-2019, 11:45 PM
ard ard is offline
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Originally Posted by robnitro View Post
From the symptoms, it's not a battery issue... What voltage are you getting at the under hood terminals while engine is running?
He can't figure out how to look at the battery and read the date....voltages are gonna be a non starter. Pun intended.
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Alignment here: The Definitive Alignment Thread

OE is Original Equipment aka 'BMW Original Parts' aka 'What you buy at the BMW dealer with a BMW label'

OEM is Original Equipment Manufacturer... EITHER the company that made the OE part or.... A part this is identical to the OE part, but is sold by the OEM under their own label


OEM is not what BMW sells


http://www.bimmerzone.com/category/T...ricks_OEM.html

https://www.turnermotorsport.com/t-OEvsOEM
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  #18  
Old 08-31-2019, 12:39 PM
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Here's a relatively easy thing to do...how about unlocking your instrument cluster to see what the battery voltage is...especially during the times that it won't start.

If you are unfamiliar with unlocking the cluster...there are multiple videos on YouTube (for the various generation of BMW instrument clusters) that shows how. Find a video that has the type of cluster you have...all the generational cousins of your model/model year (e70/e60/e65/e63/e90/etc) will have the same instructions and procedures for unlocking the cluster...so any of their videos will work for you.
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  #19  
Old 09-04-2019, 06:09 AM
Will_335iMvert Will_335iMvert is offline
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Brake Lamp switch at pedal? Funny that no other 'mentioned' odd behavior besides ignition on but start. I'm assuming no crank. Just a thought.
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Old 09-04-2019, 07:07 AM
harveytchao harveytchao is offline
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Issues with push button start

FWIW:

It just MIGHT- I say again MIGHT be signs of a failing starter. Don't recall seeing what engine this is, but my wife's '07 X5 3.0si started to act as if the battery was weak/starting to fail. On cranking, there would be the initial starter activity for a fraction of a second immediately followed by a slight pause or hesitation that I associate with a a weak battery. This would then become normal starter activity and engine start. UNTIL on a multi leg all-day away from home travel day at the last stop (4PM on a SUNDAY!) we went to start for the final leg home and absolutely NO starer. Tried to jump with two different sets of cables and two different starter pads. Absolutely "Nuttin" - no solenoid "click" or other starter activity. Actually managed to get a flat bed to the local shop and a GOOD neighbor came out to give the other 5 of us a ride home while I waited for the flatbed truck. Monday AM, shop said "bad starter". Starter was replaced, battery checked out as "good" and all is currently well. BE ADVISED that on the 3.0si "six" - YOU HAVE TO PULL THE INTAKE MANIFOLD TO ACCESS THE STARTER FROM THE TOP, AND AT LEAST ONE OF THE MOUNTING BOLTS IS A SINGLE USE ALUMINUM BOLT THAT MUST BE REPLACED.
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  #21  
Old 09-04-2019, 07:40 AM
twh twh is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by harveytchao View Post
FWIW:

It just MIGHT- I say again MIGHT be signs of a failing starter. Don't recall seeing what engine this is, but my wife's '07 X5 3.0si started to act as if the battery was weak/starting to fail. On cranking, there would be the initial starter activity for a fraction of a second immediately followed by a slight pause or hesitation that I associate with a a weak battery. This would then become normal starter activity and engine start. UNTIL on a multi leg all-day away from home travel day at the last stop (4PM on a SUNDAY!) we went to start for the final leg home and absolutely NO starer. Tried to jump with two different sets of cables and two different starter pads. Absolutely "Nuttin" - no solenoid "click" or other starter activity. Actually managed to get a flat bed to the local shop and a GOOD neighbor came out to give the other 5 of us a ride home while I waited for the flatbed truck. Monday AM, shop said "bad starter". Starter was replaced, battery checked out as "good" and all is currently well. BE ADVISED that on the 3.0si "six" - YOU HAVE TO PULL THE INTAKE MANIFOLD TO ACCESS THE STARTER FROM THE TOP, AND AT LEAST ONE OF THE MOUNTING BOLTS IS A SINGLE USE ALUMINUM BOLT THAT MUST BE REPLACED.
Interesting....also brings up another possibility...my wife has a 2009 X5 3.0i. This car still has a discrete fuel pump relay and doesn't have the fuel pump EKPS module. My wife's car would start and turn off after a split second every so often. This only happened once a week or so and rarely twice in a row. Then, one day we were out and she pushed the button and it just cranked for like 10 seconds and didn't start. That crank/no-start happened like 10 times in a row in the parking lot and then the car finally started and stayed running. I changed out the fuel pump relay and that fixed the problem. BTW, the car also had a weak starter which had been changed a year prior.

Part number: 61368373700, like $15.

Last edited by twh; 09-04-2019 at 07:42 AM.
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  #22  
Old 09-04-2019, 07:52 AM
twh twh is offline
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Not sure wen the E70 switched over to EKPS, but for models with the discrete relay (K6301), this is the location:

https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...200810/S0mDroy

Last edited by twh; 09-04-2019 at 07:54 AM.
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