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Old 05-23-2019, 09:33 AM
BabyUnicornTaco BabyUnicornTaco is online now
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Strut Mount Bushing: Can it be replaced without removing the strut?

2008 X5 4.8i with adaptive drive. Looking to replace the strut mount bushing on both sides. Part #10 in the attached diagram. Is it possible to replace without removing the strut? Remove bolt, replace bushing, replace bolt? I will refresh some other suspension parts down the road.

http://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/show...diagId=31_0795
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Old 05-23-2019, 10:19 AM
sf2000x5 sf2000x5 is offline
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#10 is possible but you want to replace #8 also. I suppose you could just replace #10 alone to get rid of some play/noise.

Dismounting the strut assembly is necessary to remove #8 (at least removing the top 3 strut mount nuts, compressing the spring, then removing everything above #8.
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Old 05-23-2019, 10:24 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sf2000x5 View Post
#10 is possible but you want to replace #8 also. I suppose you could just replace #10 alone to get rid of some play/noise.

Dismounting the strut assembly is necessary to remove #8 (at least removing the top 3 strut mount nuts, compressing the spring, then removing everything above #8.
Thanks. Those were my thoughts. I think #10 on my X5 is worn significantly more than the other bushings. Probably due to heat under the hood. Am I right about the single nut (I said bolt before) being removed for replacement? Seems pretty straight forward with the X5 just parked.
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Old 05-23-2019, 10:32 AM
sf2000x5 sf2000x5 is offline
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IIRC, the cabin filter is going to be in the way on the left side of the car. So once you have access to the top nut, you can remove the top nut, 12, and also 11 and 10. Leave the suspension loaded, on the ground of course. That way the strut rod will stay centered through top mount.

Let us know how it all goes.
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Old 05-23-2019, 10:36 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sf2000x5 View Post
IIRC, the cabin filter is going to be in the way on the left side of the car. So once you have access to the top nut, you can remove the top nut, 12, and also 11 and 10. Leave the suspension loaded, on the ground of course. That way the strut rod will stay centered through top mount.

Let us know how it all goes.
Thanks. I'll order later and post results when done. I don't expect it to change anything except for some noise/play. Good for buying time until I do a full or partial refresh.
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Old 05-23-2019, 03:23 PM
ard ard is offline
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10 yes, 8 no
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Alignment here: The Definitive Alignment Thread

OE is Original Equipment aka 'BMW Original Parts' aka 'What you buy at the BMW dealer with a BMW label'

OEM is Original Equipment Manufacturer... EITHER the company that made the OE part or.... A part this is identical to the OE part, but is sold by the OEM under their own label


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http://www.bimmerzone.com/category/T...ricks_OEM.html

https://www.turnermotorsport.com/t-OEvsOEM
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Old 05-23-2019, 05:28 PM
smassey321 smassey321 is offline
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Here you go. https://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sh...d.php?t=975637
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Old 05-23-2019, 05:56 PM
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Originally Posted by smassey321 View Post


Thanks. I already read that one a few times. I havenít read about replacing only #10 so I want to see what difference it makes. I have kept up with my suspension for the most part.


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Old 05-24-2019, 10:12 AM
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Am I reading this correctly? Torque to 48 nm for that single nut?
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...unting/5e89WHG
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Old 05-24-2019, 12:35 PM
deroy deroy is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BabyUnicornTaco View Post
Am I reading this correctly? Torque to 48 nm for that single nut?
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...unting/5e89WHG


Yes. Does that seem odd?
Note that once everything is installed, the weight of the car holds the spring down, not only those 48Nm.


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Old 05-24-2019, 12:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by deroy View Post
Yes. Does that seem odd?
Note that once everything is installed, the weight of the car holds the spring down, not only those 48Nm.


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Nope not odd. Just confirming. Being fairly new to suspension work I just wanted to verify. Iím not perfect with torquing charts when more than one item part is referenced. Still learning. Thanks.


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Old 05-24-2019, 12:44 PM
deroy deroy is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BabyUnicornTaco View Post
Nope not odd. Just confirming. Being fairly new to suspension work I just wanted to verify. Iím not perfect with torquing charts when more than one item part is referenced. Still learning. Thanks.


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The referring page helps understanding the chart, it points to a specific row in the chart.

https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...struts/GVak7pn


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Old 05-24-2019, 01:55 PM
sf2000x5 sf2000x5 is offline
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If the strut rod has enough thread, I wonder simply if re-torquing the top not would get rid of most of the play the worn bushings created.

Maybe remove the nut to see how far the rod is threaded?
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Old 05-24-2019, 06:32 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sf2000x5 View Post
If the strut rod has enough thread, I wonder simply if re-torquing the top not would get rid of most of the play the worn bushings created.

Maybe remove the nut to see how far the rod is threaded?


I will do that. Iíll take measurements and pictures.


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Old 05-28-2019, 01:27 PM
Badsmerf Badsmerf is offline
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I replaced #8 without disassembly (in addition to #10). I was able to push the strut down and slip the bushing in before the strut extended. I don't really recommend it... My strut didn't take much force to compress (not sure how much force it should take?), but it could extend and be tough to align in the hole. I only did one side, to see if it solved the problem.... which it didn't. I've now moved on to #7, but haven't had the time to do it yet.
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Old 05-28-2019, 09:33 PM
deroy deroy is offline
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No one ever mentioned the strut mount itself (#9) yet. Has failure of those yellow bushes become dogma?

I went browsing for pics. The strut mount has a rubber thing with guiding tube in the middle. I would assume that rubber can fail too. Should be easy to inspect by taking off the top bolt, disc and yellow bushing, put bolt back on loosely to avoid the shock top from disappearing down (can it?) and then bounce the car a bit. Some generic youtube movies discuss this type of failure.


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Last edited by deroy; 05-29-2019 at 12:58 AM.
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Old 05-28-2019, 09:49 PM
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double post

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Old 05-29-2019, 01:49 PM
blue dragon blue dragon is offline
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Broken drivers side spring yesterday. Will refresh 7, 8 and 10 since I have to disassemble to replace the spring. I'm going to do both sides.
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Old 05-31-2019, 10:51 AM
sf2000x5 sf2000x5 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Badsmerf View Post
I replaced #8 without disassembly (in addition to #10). I was able to push the strut down and slip the bushing in before the strut extended. I don't really recommend it... My strut didn't take much force to compress (not sure how much force it should take?), but it could extend and be tough to align in the hole. I only did one side, to see if it solved the problem.... which it didn't. I've now moved on to #7, but haven't had the time to do it yet.
I don't see how you can do that without at least removing the assembly or removing the 3 top nuts.

7 is a bumpstop that stops travel to avoid full compression of the coilover assembly. Did you check the thrust arms for play in the bushing.

Last edited by sf2000x5; 05-31-2019 at 10:55 AM.
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Old 06-12-2019, 11:48 AM
Badsmerf Badsmerf is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sf2000x5 View Post
I don't see how you can do that without at least removing the assembly or removing the 3 top nuts.

7 is a bumpstop that stops travel to avoid full compression of the coilover assembly. Did you check the thrust arms for play in the bushing.
I removed the top nut while still compressed, then jacked it up and was able to compress the strut by hand. Again, not recommended. I had already replaced the thrust arms and end links. When I get to #7 I'll update the thread I have going, but it will be a little while before I have time for it.
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Old 06-12-2019, 11:59 AM
deroy deroy is offline
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Strut Mount Bushing: Can it be replaced without removing the strut?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Badsmerf View Post
I removed the top nut while still compressed, then jacked it up and was able to compress the strut by hand. Again, not recommended. I had already replaced the thrust arms and end links. When I get to #7 I'll update the thread I have going, but it will be a little while before I have time for it.


You mean you compressed the coil spring? I can maybe picture compressing the shock only, and then fiddling long enough to get the donut bushing in and over the top of the thin end of the shock between the spring loops...


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Last edited by deroy; 06-12-2019 at 12:00 PM.
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Old 06-12-2019, 12:23 PM
sf2000x5 sf2000x5 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Badsmerf View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by sf2000x5 View Post
I don't see how you can do that without at least removing the assembly or removing the 3 top nuts.

7 is a bumpstop that stops travel to avoid full compression of the coilover assembly. Did you check the thrust arms for play in the bushing.
I removed the top nut while still compressed, then jacked it up and was able to compress the strut by hand. Again, not recommended. I had already replaced the thrust arms and end links. When I get to #7 I'll update the thread I have going, but it will be a little while before I have time for it.
Sounds like your struts are blown or you should try out for worlds strongest man
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Old 06-12-2019, 03:45 PM
Badsmerf Badsmerf is offline
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Originally Posted by sf2000x5 View Post
Sounds like your struts are blown or you should try out for worlds strongest man
I've asked how difficult they should be to compress.... since I've installed struts for the trunk on my A3 and they were WAY more stiff. I would say it took 50 pounds of pressure max to compress the strut. I had to push on an allen wrench, so it couldn't have been much more than that. Of course it extended back to where it was, but not extremely fast. I was able to slip the new doughnut in before it extended through the guide bushing.

deroy- I removed the top nut with the wheel on the ground. Once jacked up the spring and strut extend. Then, I pushed the strut down from inside the hood until I could pop the doughnut in underneath. If anyone has any experience with these struts and can say that should be impossible, then I probably need to replace mine.
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