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F22 / F23 2 Series (2014 - Current)
The 2 Series coupe is the replacement for the E82/E88 1 series coupe. Production starts in November 2013 on the 228i (N20) and M235i (N55) coupes. Look for them in dealerships in February 2014. The convertible F23 2 series will follow in the fall of 2014.

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  #1  
Old 05-11-2019, 09:07 AM
yanks1 yanks1 is offline
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Tire Iron 2018 2 series??

Where & what Tire Iron I can purchase so I can rotate my run flat tires soon. Have 5,500 miles now; I have same size A/S tires front & rear

Thanks...
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  #2  
Old 05-11-2019, 05:59 PM
John in VA John in VA is online now
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The lug bolts should be 17 mm. A deep 17 mm socket and breaker bar (or battery-powered tool) are all you need. BMW has a "crank" that will work if you'd prefer that: BMW Part # 71121179953
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Old 05-11-2019, 10:37 PM
Autoputzer Autoputzer is online now
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It's a good idea to tighten the lug bolts with a torque wrench. I have a big Craftsman ratchet, big enough that it also works as a breaker bar. I also have "scratch free" sockets, and wheel hangers (that go in a lug bolt hole at the top and help you align the wheel with the lug bolt holes). The wheel hanger isn't necessary when rotating the tires, but it's handy when you're changing a flat tire at 2 a.m. in the rain.

If you don't have a spare, you'll need to somehow get the car up in the air. A bigger picture is that if you go on road trips (e.g. SC to NJ), even with run-flats, you really need a spare. Just ask this guy who had a flat RFT (and no spare) that cost him $1400: https://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sh...d.php?t=917185

Bimmerzone and others sell spare tire and jack kits for F22/23's.

Craftsman sells plastic "pick-up truck" tool boxes. I have one for each car. Plastic is important, so they don't rust and stain the trunk carpet.

I've found that RFT's wear faster in the edges than in the middle. This can be fixed by over-inflating them. But, then the ride and performance get even worse than they already are. My first set of RFT's will also be my last set. With a spare, jack, and tools, you have the option to go to non-RFT's when the OE tires are done.

With an RWD BMW, the rear tires wear 75 to 100% faster than the front tires. The wear is also different, since BMW's have a lot of negative rear camber. Rotating tires evens out the wear. I specifically ordered our last three BMW's with a square set-up (same tires front and back) so that I can rotate them. With tire rotation and adjusting the pressure based on the wear patterns, I'll get 35k to 40k miles out of my high-performance Michelin PSS's on my 535i, and 45k to 50k miles out of my low-performance, OE, non-RFT SUV tires on Frau Putzer's X3.
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Last edited by Autoputzer; 05-11-2019 at 11:57 PM.
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Old 05-12-2019, 07:35 AM
marcozandrini marcozandrini is offline
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Concur with buying a torque wrench. The lug bolts on the F22 need to be torqued to 105ft-lbs. I have a 1/2” drive ratchet with a short extension and a 6 point 17mm socket in the trunk. I bought a piece of steel pipe at HD to add leverage to the ratchet. Minimum quality is Craftsman.
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Old 05-13-2019, 07:33 PM
yanks1 yanks1 is offline
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Tire Iron 2018 2 series??

Thx all for the replies & advice

My car is a rare RWD car in NJ, they only ship X cars here so I ordered mine. And my tries are 18” A/S OEM same size so no need for winter tires + I can rotate the tires. I may just buy a 17MM tire iron off eBay
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Old 05-18-2019, 10:00 AM
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QSilver7 QSilver7 is online now
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If you have any metric socket...check to make sure that your lug bolts are 17mm...for a short period...BMW was using 19mm lug bolts on some models...but perhaps they've gone back to exclusively using 17mm. My 2006 e53 X5 4.4 was one of those exceptions...it took me by surprise the first time I had to remove a wheel...instead of pulling the tire iron from below the cargo floor...I just was going to use a 17mm socket and my breaker bar...but low and behold the 17mm socket didn't fit. After fiddling around finding the correct socket size...then testing the actual tire iron that came with the vehicle...I was then made aware of this little "wrinkle".

Your plan will work...but I'd also check around to see if you can find a BMW crank (tire iron) from a wrecked BMW or junk yard. The BMW "S" shaped crank's geometry give you a bit more leverage in loosening the lug bolt if you find yourself in a situation where a bolt is overtorqued.
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Old 05-18-2019, 10:11 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by John in VA View Post
The lug bolts should be 17 mm. A deep 17 mm socket and breaker bar (or battery-powered tool) are all you need. BMW has a "crank" that will work if you'd prefer that: BMW Part # 71121179953
Ditto John....you could always pick up a BMW "crank" (#9 in the diagram) from either a wrecked BMW that's being parted out, or junk yard...or even purchased new from your local BMW dealership or online vendor. But I would double check that your lug bolts have a 17mm head. For a period of time...BMW was using lugbolts with a 19mm head...my 06 e53 X5 4.4 came with 19mm lug bolts.

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Q {BMW CCA Member #191509}
2006 E53 X5 4.4i (Sterling Gray) 12/05 mfg date <<~>> 2013 F06 650ix Gran Coupe` (Black Sapphire) 1/13 mfg date
(SOLD)
97 740iL (Arctic Silver) <<~>> 99 540iT (Orient Blue) <<~>> 95 525IT (Alpine White)
91 735iL (Schwarz Black) <<~>> 85 325e (Bronzit)

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