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X3 E83 (2004 - 2010)
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  #1  
Old 08-10-2014, 10:43 AM
195 195 is offline
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4x4, yellow brake, and airbag light all on

Note: I've searched and seen the 'terrible triad' of lights, but this appears to involve the ABS light which I do not have on.

I have a 2008 X3 M-sport with 75k miles.

The other day I left the key in the number 2 ignition spot overnight which killed the battery. I jumped started the car and it started up fine, but now whenever I start the car, I immediately get the red airbag light, yellow brake light, and the 4x4 light on the dash. These appear almost immediately while the car is still in park and idling. They are on all the time while driving and are not intermittent. Also, it appears that the DTC and hill descent control buttons don't work because nothing happens when I press/hold them.

Car seems to drive just fine, but I've noticed that there appears to be more power coming from the front wheels than the rear. Almost as if the car is in 4wd. Although it's subtle enough that this could just be in my head.

From other searched, I've confirmed that there is no clicking sound underneath indicating a bad actuator. The hidden OBC menu confirms the battery looks good (i did a full trickle charge after I jumped it). I did a full lock-to-lock steering wheel turn and that didn't do anything.

Before I take it in, is there anything else I can check to get rid of the lights? My battery is 6 years old and I'm tempted to replace it, but not sure if that would fix the immediate issue.

Thanks in advance.

Last edited by 195; 08-10-2014 at 10:46 AM.
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  #2  
Old 08-10-2014, 12:21 PM
swampX3 swampX3 is offline
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battery etc

you've done good intro troubleshooting but 6 years on a battery is time to swap if only for insurance purposes of not getting stuck someplace you don't wanna be....also ....the lack of the killer clicking sound is good news

also .....get access to a low cost/friends multimeter and see for sure what's going on at the terminals ......gotta be ~12.5 volts static and 14 ish volts charging from alternator with engine idling

you might try the ignition on 1st position but no engine running with foot pressed down all the way on accelerator pedal for a minute ....this often resets gremlins ......or the disconnect the battery for ten mins at both terminals trick

also ......do you have the obd2 code reader reset gizmo .......loads of folks do .....so .....beg/boorow etc one......do a quick reset and see if all goes well ......hopefully it's a simple battery issue
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  #3  
Old 08-10-2014, 01:28 PM
195 195 is offline
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Thanks for the quick reply.

I haven't heard of the gas pedal reset before. Tried it but nothing changed.

I did try resetting the lights by disconnecting the negative terminal for a night which didn't work. I'll try disconnecting both posts and see if that makes a difference.

I don't have an odb2 reader. Any tips on where I could buy/borrow one?
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Old 08-10-2014, 01:32 PM
swampX3 swampX3 is offline
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obd2

there are some very low cost ones on ebay .....or search this site to see recommendations ......joylove is top notch name to search on

also .....you can go to a local auto supply store ...we have car quest/auto zone....o'reilly etc but I don't know about Ca ......these guys will always read and reset codes for the locals here in the swamp
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Old 08-10-2014, 01:35 PM
swampX3 swampX3 is offline
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good joy love obd2 info

I thought you might be interested in reading this web page:
https://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho...errerid=343410
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  #6  
Old 08-10-2014, 05:34 PM
3gunshooter 3gunshooter is offline
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I got stuck in a field a couple weeks ago. I have had the same lights come on. They do not show up on my scanner and is only intermittent like twice in 3 weeks. Since it was caked with mud around the transfer case I am thinking that it may be a short in the wiring. A couple years ago I had to replace the actuater. I drove it for a couple days without one in it and got the same lights. I just haven't had time to get it checked by my Indy.
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  #7  
Old 08-18-2014, 05:12 AM
dtownjazz dtownjazz is offline
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I'm also having the same problem with my 2008 BMW X3. 4x4 light, yellow brake light, airbag light, and seat belt lights all came on and I can't shot it off. 195 and 3gunshooter, how did you fix the problem in your X3? Please anyone with ideas, please help on how I can get rid of these lights. I would really appreciate it. Thanks
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Old 08-18-2014, 05:39 PM
3gunshooter 3gunshooter is offline
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I haven't yet. Mine came on Sunday, when i shut the car off and turn it back on it does not come back. Do you hear any clicking when you turn it off? Still have not got time to look into it yet. Try disconnecting your battery.
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Old 08-19-2014, 04:40 AM
DangermouseX3 DangermouseX3 is offline
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1. Get codes read and reset
2. Disconnect battery as described above
3. Get battery tested at autozone/etc
4. consider getting a new battery - at 6 years old, it could easily just be that
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  #10  
Old 08-28-2014, 05:41 PM
udmx3 udmx3 is offline
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actuator gear

I had no clicking on mine changed the gear & its been ok for a year now.
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  #11  
Old 08-30-2014, 07:21 PM
3gunshooter 3gunshooter is offline
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Mine came on and stays on today. Going to try and get it looked at next week if I can. No codes and I replaced the battery 2 months ago.
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  #12  
Old 09-02-2014, 04:05 PM
3gunshooter 3gunshooter is offline
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This is what I got today. It gets looked at by the dealer next Friday. Anyone have this problem?
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  #13  
Old 10-06-2016, 05:31 PM
Thesalvadorean Thesalvadorean is offline
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Did you ever find out what the issue was? I have the same 3 lights.
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  #14  
Old 10-06-2016, 08:51 PM
joylove joylove is offline
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Probably the transfer motor gear. Literally every third thread is about it. Budget $120 in parts and 4 hours labor.
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  #15  
Old 10-07-2016, 07:59 AM
Thesalvadorean Thesalvadorean is offline
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Thanks joylove! I'll have to plan to replace the gear soon.
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  #16  
Old 10-14-2016, 05:55 PM
x3-007 x3-007 is offline
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Steering Angle Sensor

My codes for the same lights came up as the "Steering Angle Sensor" according to the repair shop. I think it can be cleaned?.....or replaced for around $400 at a repair shop.
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  #17  
Old 07-30-2018, 11:18 AM
Xmantom Xmantom is offline
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I had the same problem and it turned out to be a bad ignition switch. The ABS system get un-switched power but the DSC is power from the ignition switch. The circuit to fuses 1-15 was getting about 8 volts. There are about four different switch controlled circuits so check all of fuses for a proper voltage before you assume the voltage is good.
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  #18  
Old 08-03-2018, 07:06 AM
Loughroger Loughroger is offline
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I ran through this with a 2009 x3. Transfer gear fix cost 10.00 and took half hour. Problem not fixed. Change tc fluid cost 45 . Problem not fixed. It turns out that it was a combination of minimum spec battery in trunk and bad ground strap. I was glad to have found the before tackling steering sensor. With battery in trunk there is no extra heat and more power needed with long lines to front
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Old 07-01-2020, 06:56 PM
Bob2019 Bob2019 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Loughroger View Post
I ran through this with a 2009 x3. Transfer gear fix cost 10.00 and took half hour. Problem not fixed. Change tc fluid cost 45 . Problem not fixed. It turns out that it was a combination of minimum spec battery in trunk and bad ground strap. I was glad to have found the before tackling steering sensor. With battery in trunk there is no extra heat and more power needed with long lines to front
Did you end up replacing the battery and all lights in dashboard went out?

Interestingly I have tried the same set of things (xcase gear replacement, xcase fluid replacement, software re-calibration for SAS) but the code keeps coming back.
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Old 07-02-2020, 04:29 AM
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dukedkt442 dukedkt442 is offline
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Check and replace the two under-car ground straps first. Thereís 1 behind the front passenger wheel grounding the engine to the subframe, and another grounding the exhaust to the chassis just ahead of the rear drive axle.


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Old 07-02-2020, 04:52 PM
Cardiac Cardiac is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by x3-007 View Post
My codes for the same lights came up as the "Steering Angle Sensor" according to the repair shop. I think it can be cleaned?.....or replaced for around $400 at a repair shop.
Bingo, and if you look at it I don't believe it can be cleand, it has to be replaced. An expensive little donut
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  #22  
Old 07-04-2020, 03:11 PM
Bob2019 Bob2019 is offline
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Originally Posted by dukedkt442 View Post
Check and replace the two under-car ground straps first. Thereís 1 behind the front passenger wheel grounding the engine to the subframe, and another grounding the exhaust to the chassis just ahead of the rear drive axle.


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Will give a try by replacing ground straps first.

If my understanding is correct then your theory about bad ground strap is that there is under-voltage condition to possibly steering angle sensor that is causing the problem, right? So

1. Is there a good place to insert with oscilloscope to measure voltage drop as close as possible to the steering angle sensor? Would it be most important to measure the voltage before cranking, during cranking or when running on alternator?
2. In ISTA/D I have seen that angle during the calibration process (with engine on) sometimes is jumping back and forth. Can this information be used to prove whether issue is with voltage or with sensor itself?
3. If there were electrical connection issues, then would there be a dedicated code visible in ISTA/D or any other codes? I have few other codes 000004 LWS slider fault (adjustment operation), 00001e IHKA AUC sensor, 000020 IHKA AUC heating, 0000A1 MRS No message from DSC control unit or message incorrect, 0000A3 MRS no message from DSC control unit or message incorrect, 002ef8 DME: Map thermostat, activation
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  #23  
Old 07-04-2020, 03:44 PM
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dukedkt442 dukedkt442 is offline
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I donít know how much voltage drop is allowable by the time the energy gets to the SAS, but replacing the ground straps and then shorting the capacitors cures the various odd electrical gremlins in these 9 out of 10 times. The various sensors and capacitors are extremely sensitive to voltage, and if the electrical current between the battery terminals isnít perfect, all sorts of weird red herrings appear. Many of us have added extra ground straps at various places under the hood using insulated 4ga cable, as even the slightest corrosion begins to cause random codes to appear (the DME needs to read proper voltage from its various sensors in order to report properly). Even mirror/seat memory is heavily dependent upon resistance.

If proper earthing followed by a capacitor short doesnít fix the SAS, then yes tire likely due for one. Ground straps on these cars are a maintenance item.


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