2006 BMW 650I no power, no start, dead. Please help!!! - Bimmerfest - BMW Forums



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E63 / E64 6 Series (2004 - 2010)
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  #1  
Old 06-30-2020, 09:55 PM
camondrae camondrae is online now
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2006 BMW 650I no power, no start, dead. Please help!!!

I have 2006 BMW 650i, well I removed my dashboard and when I put everything back together the car wouldn't start. I have already checked to make all was connected and secure. I also have checked the fuses. The car shows a no key detected warning light, but the key fob still unlock/lock the doors and the red security light flashes while lock. However no lights on the dash at all and no power to the windows. My guess is the key is bad or the CAS module needs to be reprogrammed. I dont have a second key for the car either. How can i verify what's my problem. I don't have ISTA P or any other program to find out. Even if I did without terminal R sending power through the car I wouldn't be able to use the scan tool Carly App via the OBDII.
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Old 07-01-2020, 07:07 PM
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Originally Posted by camondrae View Post
I have 2006 BMW 650i, well I removed my dashboard and when I put everything back together the car wouldn't start. I have already checked to make all was connected and secure. I also have checked the fuses. The car shows a no key detected warning light, but the key fob still unlock/lock the doors and the red security light flashes while lock. However no lights on the dash at all and no power to the windows. My guess is the key is bad or the CAS module needs to be reprogrammed. I dont have a second key for the car either. How can i verify what's my problem. I don't have ISTA P or any other program to find out. Even if I did without terminal R sending power through the car I wouldn't be able to use the scan tool Carly App via the OBDII.
There is an antenna under the steering wheel that reads the key. Since the Kombi is not working properly, it sounds like something was left unplugged, or came loose while putting the dash back together? Why did you remove the dash?
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Old 07-01-2020, 10:34 PM
camondrae camondrae is online now
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Thanks for responding! I double checked all the connections already. I'm not sure where the antenna under the steering wheel is exactly located. I took the dash out to check the defrost vents because when i turn the ac on the defrost vent blows hot air. Anyway, today in scanned the car and I got fault code A0F0 and A3B2. So I'm not sure in the CAS is the issue or the key fob insert slot.
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Old 07-02-2020, 12:36 PM
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Did you change the CAS module, or why was the dash removed?
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Old 07-02-2020, 03:45 PM
camondrae camondrae is online now
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I took the dash out to check the defrost vents because when i turn the ac on the defrost vent blows hot air. I didn't change the CAS module, but i was wondering if you knew anyone who has a CAS test platform? Also i will be coming to Atlanta tomorrow hopefully, so i want try to have my key or the CAS module tested? If you like i would appreciate it you email me then i'll give you my number to call. My email is [email protected]
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Old 07-02-2020, 06:47 PM
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You will need INPA, DIS, or ISTA+ to read the module in the car. ISTA is the latest software platform that BMW uses. Without taking the car to someone that has the proper software, it will be hard to say what the problem is? It might be worth taking the car to BMW to have the diagnostics run, which will be 1 hour shop time. Then you will know what the root cause of the problem is?
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Old 07-02-2020, 06:52 PM
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Here is the BMW shop manual, with all the electrical diagrams & repair guides to work from. This will help you trace the wiring harness looking for the voltage issue. The key & CAS are a set, & must stay together. I doubt your key is bad, but something could have triggered the theft module, disabling the car from starting.

https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e63-645ci-cou/
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Old 07-02-2020, 07:33 PM
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Check fuse F13 in the rear of the glove box fuse panel, It should be the 4th one from the top right. It supplies power to the KOMBI, which is the dash power for instruments. Also check fuse 7 & 15 in the same box, as it supplies power to the CAS. Once you get the dash back working, the CAS might need to be realigned, with the DME. You will need the software to do this.
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Old 07-02-2020, 08:03 PM
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Fuse 29 should power the OBD2 socket, in the same fuse panel.
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Old 07-02-2020, 08:19 PM
camondrae camondrae is online now
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I have power to the obd that's how i got the codes. I had already check the fuses and they were good. The transponder coil is not being detected when i insert the key. One programmer said that the key is bad.
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Old 07-02-2020, 08:47 PM
camondrae camondrae is online now
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From my understanding once the key fob is inserted the CAS module verifies that the key is the correct key. After verification the CAS module energizes the other modules through out the car and allows you to start the car. So i have narrowed it down to the CAS module, key slot, or the key fob. I also traced and tested the ribbon from the CAS module to the key slot for continuity, it was ok. There is a device called CAS 2 Test Platform that is used to test the key and the CAS module while outside of the car but I dont have access to the device. I'm thinking the key fob is not the issue because I wasn't having problems with it before. The key slot has never locked the key in place since i owned the car so it could be bad. Or the CAS module is the problem because of me disconnecting the ribbon from the key slot while the battery was still connected, the system detected that and it caused the CAS module to become misalign with the key fob(as far as the code is concern).
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Old 07-03-2020, 04:45 AM
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If you have two key fobs and both are the same then it is not the Fobs
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Old 07-03-2020, 04:53 AM
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You may need to do a DME/CAS sync. If the CAS detects a condition that it translates as a possible theft it will prevent the vehicle from starting. ProTool has the ability to sync the CAS to the DME to clear this condition.
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Old 07-03-2020, 06:46 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by camondrae View Post
Thanks for responding! I double checked all the connections already. I'm not sure where the antenna under the steering wheel is exactly located. I took the dash out to check the defrost vents because when i turn the ac on the defrost vent blows hot air. Anyway, today in scanned the car and I got fault code A0F0 and A3B2. So I'm not sure in the CAS is the issue or the key fob insert slot.
Once you have the car running again, change your heater valve. That's the issue you are having with the heat coming on.
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Old 07-03-2020, 07:24 AM
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It sounds like you need to sync the CAS/EWS so the car will start. You possibly triggered the theft fault while having all of the modules disconnected while the dash was out. All of the modules & keys must be present when doing the sync.
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Old 07-03-2020, 07:39 AM
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N8A is the aerial transmitter for the CAS & Key. It is located on the very bottom part of the steering wheel, in a black plastic box. The more I read, you need to sync the CAS.
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Old 07-03-2020, 08:05 PM
camondrae camondrae is online now
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HerbP, I think you are on the right track. In a few days I'm going to take the car by the shop to see if I can reprogram the key to the CAS module. If that doesn't work then I'm going to send the CAS module, key fob, instrument cluster, DME and key slot to this guy i ran across watching Youtube he says he has the equipment to find the problem as well as make me a second key for around $400. I'll give the outcome once I see what happens.
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Old 07-03-2020, 08:15 PM
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There is most likely nothing wrong with your key, the CAS & EWS just need to be synced. Beware of people doing programming like this, as one member just got taken for 500.00. The key can only be made by BMW, & you must have proof of ownership & license to get them to order it. Depending on the key, it might have to be programmed at the dealer, or someone with ISTA. You can probably get your key for around 300.00 if you work on the guy at the parts department at BMW. If you pay them 1 hour labor, they should make sure the key is programmed to the car at the same time.
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Old 07-03-2020, 08:35 PM
camondrae camondrae is online now
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I have changed the heater valve once before, but I was getting a fault code for the heater valve at that time. I was having the same issue with the heat before and after the replacement. Maybe the module that control the heater valve isn't closing the heater valve. My guess is one of the temp sensors is bad. I know the vents actuators is working because when I pulled the dash out the defrost vents were closed. I need to find out which sensor is sending a false reading. One another note I still had the old heater valve sitting around so i put 12v to it and it works fine, so it wasn't the problem to began with. Also a couple of weeks ago I had a scanner hooked up to the car, the temp on the cluster and the ambient temp sensor gave two different reading. The ambient temp sensor wasn't reading properly so i replaced it and still the problem remains. I do know that the temp sensor in the front of the dash is working properly as well as the one mounted in the ihka controller. I was wondering if the condensation sensor could be causing the problem?
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Old 07-03-2020, 08:40 PM
camondrae camondrae is online now
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Originally Posted by HerbP View Post
There is most likely nothing wrong with your key, the CAS & EWS just need to be synced. Beware of people doing programming like this, as one member just got taken for 500.00. The key can only be made by BMW, & you must have proof of ownership & license to get them to order it. Depending on the key, it might have to be programmed at the dealer, or someone with ISTA. You can probably get your key for around 300.00 if you work on the guy at the parts department at BMW. If you pay them 1 hour labor, they should make sure the key is programmed to the car at the same time.
Well i hope everything works out here at the shop where i have worked at. Once i give the video from youtube i'll post it and you can tell me what you think.
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Old 07-03-2020, 08:48 PM
camondrae camondrae is online now
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HerbP this is the video in the description the contact number was there so i called the guy. He also said the he will take payment through paypal after he finds the problem. I said that to say that I should be covered through paypal. I was also thinking the if he does business service through ebay that would be even better.
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  #22  
Old 07-04-2020, 03:44 AM
Bill85208 Bill85208 is offline
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Get ProTool and do it yourself, it's really simple and cost around $150.
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  #23  
Old 07-04-2020, 02:19 PM
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Only BMW can cut the key, & you will be wasting your money taking a chance on reprogramming a key fob. I sent you your best chance last night, I don't want to see you waste your money. Get you a cable, & your problem will be solved. If you want one really fast, you can drive another 2 hours & pick one up from me in Augusta. I have a spare cable available.
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Old 07-04-2020, 04:57 PM
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Only BMW can cut the key, & you will be wasting your money taking a chance on reprogramming a key fob. I sent you your best chance last night, I don't want to see you waste your money. Get you a cable, & your problem will be solved. If you want one really fast, you can drive another 2 hours & pick one up from me in Augusta. I have a spare cable available.
Mercedes require a locksmith license to buy certain parts.
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Old 07-05-2020, 03:30 PM
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I have changed the heater valve once before, but I was getting a fault code for the heater valve at that time.
I had a bad heater valve and no codes. No heat at all. Changed it with cheap part on Amazon. Then after 3 months I had intermittent heat with AC on. Put in OEM BMW part and all fixed. Never had a code. Are you sure the code it the heater valve and not the thermostat?
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