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  #26  
Old 07-03-2020, 06:58 PM
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I do the serpentine belt on most vehicles around 60k, but I might be a tad more strict and proactive with my maintenance (especially of cheap, disposable parts) than most. If it is a ďdo not sailĒ item like a belt, I have no problem with frequent changes.


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  #27  
Old 07-04-2020, 07:46 AM
MadJoe MadJoe is online now
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CALWATERBOY TRE View Post
Hmmmmm. Cost?


Falling down that rabbit hole just taught me I hate that I have xDrive. Pulling the oilpan on my RWD '06 was kid's play comparatively. I may just preemptively get under there and remove all that unnecessary weight (and drag) one of these weekends.
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  #28  
Old 07-04-2020, 03:46 PM
wilt wilt is offline
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Be glad you do not have to pay for spark plug change or valve adjustment on a mid-engined Ferrari!
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  #29  
Old 07-07-2020, 03:25 PM
MiracleFlow00 MiracleFlow00 is offline
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Just a little update: I got her home! (Was down at my boyfriend's for almost a week)

I'm still working on getting around to the oil leaks, but I have all the parts and tools I need and plan on no driving until I can get the valve cover off just to be completely sure no belt fibers are up in there.
Thank you all for your help and insight on this matter!
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  #30  
Old 07-07-2020, 03:58 PM
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Unfortunately that wonít tell you about the oil pump pickup.

At the very least, try and get a scope up through the drain hole in the pan, but that will be tough to see anything because the screen is a few inches up the pickup tube. Youíll need a good light on the scope; if you see ANYTHING resembling something other than oil or open air, the pan must come off.

I canít stress enough the reality that shreds in the pump can and will eventually seize your engine, along with promoting unnecessary and accelerated wear. VANOS wonít operate properly either.

I donít mean to be chicken little, but I take engine health very seriously.


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The "need to have my head examined " E21 build thread

2008 BMW E83 1981 BMW 320i
2016 Chevy Silverado 2011 VW Jetta
1984 GMC S-15 1986 Oldsmobile 442
Another half dozen '60s tractors
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  #31  
Old 07-07-2020, 04:34 PM
MiracleFlow00 MiracleFlow00 is offline
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Originally Posted by dukedkt442 View Post
Unfortunately that won't tell you about the oil pump pickup.

At the very least, try and get a scope up through the drain hole in the pan, but that will be tough to see anything because the screen is a few inches up the pickup tube. You'll need a good light on the scope; if you see ANYTHING resembling something other than oil or open air, the pan must come off.

I can't stress enough the reality that shreds in the pump can and will eventually seize your engine, along with promoting unnecessary and accelerated wear. VANOS won't operate properly either.

I don't mean to be chicken little, but I take engine health very seriously.


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Oh I know! That's one of the gaskets I need done so my oil pan is coming off no matter what, just doing the top ones first so they stop caking everything up - I agree with you though! My heart will break!
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  #32  
Old 07-07-2020, 05:51 PM
ctuna ctuna is offline
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If you are doing the valve cover there will be evidence on the timing
chain.

broken belt
https://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho....php?t=1231881
http://www.e90post.com/forums/showpo...3&postcount=23
https://www.oxwerkzperformance.com/
http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1477111
https://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1305990

Last edited by ctuna; 07-07-2020 at 05:53 PM.
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  #33  
Old 07-07-2020, 05:56 PM
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^But not always. I know of cases where there were zero shreds under the rocker cover and on the chain, yet the pickup was plugged.

Itís a tough gamble.


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The "need to have my head examined " E21 build thread

2008 BMW E83 1981 BMW 320i
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1984 GMC S-15 1986 Oldsmobile 442
Another half dozen '60s tractors
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  #34  
Old 07-07-2020, 08:21 PM
ctuna ctuna is offline
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The belt is not the problem with these its the tensioner or oil dripping on
the belt.
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  #35  
Old 07-07-2020, 10:22 PM
MiracleFlow00 MiracleFlow00 is offline
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Originally Posted by ctuna View Post
The belt is not the problem with these its the tensioner or oil dripping on
the belt.
Definitely caused by an oil leak- my belt was fairly new and tensioner just replaced ~7 months ago.
I procrastinated fixing the oil leak b/c a private mechanic and the dealership told me the oil leaks were slow and could be put off for a little bit (I feel slightly betrayed, but should have connected that oil leak directly on belt = not good)
Either way, moral of this story is FIX OIL LEAKS ASAP. Not only b/c of belt risks, but i am now spending more time cleaning oil off of everything than actually repairing issues UGH
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  #36  
Old 07-08-2020, 10:58 AM
NGU NGU is offline
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I replaced the serpentine belt on my wife's 2008 e91 at 80k as part of a general maintenance checkout of the car. Bought the Continental kit online that included belt tensioner, bolts and belt for a bit over $100. It was a very easy and quick job. The old belt looked practically new but it got replaced anyway.

IMPORTANT:
Changing the belts+tensioners on my old 528i at similar mileage was more of an effort. Plus, I noticed one of the tensioner pulleys had developed some axial play and consequently the belt was not sitting squarely on the pulley which was slightly canted. The belt was at risk of eventually slipping off. (The tensioner pulleys contact the flat side of the belt, not the grooved side) That is definitely something to watch for when you inspect your belts.

Note: Replacement of valve cover gasket on the e90x series is not the trivial job it can be on many other cars. Good bit of fussy work involved. I kept feeling I might break something.

Last edited by NGU; 07-08-2020 at 11:00 AM.
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  #37  
Old 07-12-2020, 11:40 AM
wankel boy wankel boy is offline
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This just happened to my kid's piano teacher's F10 N55. There were strings of belt behind the crank pulley and oil all over that area. The seal was 100% intact, although pushed in about 5mm.

Are there pieces of belt in his oil? Probably. We think we saw some in there but my USB camera wasn't working. That seal is pretty tough. I can imagine oil getting out while the belt pieces are getting in, and then the seal closing up around the shaft.

He was looking for a quick fix around the $13,500.00 Century West BMW was quoting him, so new belt, new seal. It's an x-drive and they were talking about half shafts and differential stuff, so I am assuming you can't pull the oil pan without digging into the X-drive?

FWIW you can get that seal out without the $250 BMW tool. Just fashion an appropriate pick-hook, hold it with vise-grips and pry against the vice grips with a wrench.

Keywords crankshaft main front oil seal removal without tool
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