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  #1  
Old 08-23-2019, 06:52 PM
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mikesevel mikesevel is offline
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New car negotiated price advice needed

Over the years enjoying this site, I have noticed that members new car purchased prices are never mentioned. I assume that some may feel that it is their personal business only. Also stating what you paid for the car may result in others revealing a lower price and that is demoralizing.

Here's a new option to keep it neutral. I am considering a new 4 series coupe. Cash deal, no trade. What percentage discount can I negotiate for a MSRP of $45,000?

Thanx,
Mikey
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  #2  
Old 08-24-2019, 06:58 AM
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Zooks527 Zooks527 is offline
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Invoice + $1000 was always readily achievable. Remember, "Invoice" is the dealer's invoice price, NOT the sticker price.
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Last edited by Zooks527; 08-24-2019 at 12:44 PM.
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  #3  
Old 08-24-2019, 08:05 AM
luigi524td luigi524td is offline
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Best advice I can offer is to work from the manufacturer's / dealer's "cost" UP ... not from the MSRP "down". The difference between the "cost" and your price = the "profit" you and the selling dealer arrive at = the fair buying price. Lots of articles and posts about this ... though it is getting more difficult to get valid info on car "cost" ##'s these days.
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Old 08-25-2019, 02:04 PM
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Mech_Man Mech_Man is offline
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The "Sticker" has always been a sales instrument published by the factory, with no connection to reality (other than the clueless who feel it's mandatory).
The Dealer Wholesale was the best starting point for car purchasing negotiations, as it's a hard number, difficult (but not impossible) to find.
The purchase WS is the car's WS + WS costs of each of the factory-installed options + mandatory dealer charges (shipping or delivery).
To this you add the dealer installed options you wish to pay for, (IE: alarm, sat radio, etc.), + dealer services you also wish to pay for (Car Tag & Title).
Do NOT pay for dealer services that are (or should be) a part of the car, or of the dealer's overhead, IE: floor mats, full tank of gas, shipping prep, and a bunch of other profit-scams.
To all the above, you add a fair profit, depending on the make, model, and LOCAL sales conditions. This can be anything from $200 to $4000 or more.

It sounds like a lot of work, but when I did it, the research and negotiations prior to finding a dealer willing to sell a car that I wanted, using this method, took me about 35 man-hours, and saved me over $1,800. (A pretty good hourly rate, eh?)
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Old 08-25-2019, 02:08 PM
luigi524td luigi524td is offline
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Exclamation Preparation preparation preparation = A PLUS :-)

Quote:
Originally Posted by Mech_Man View Post
The "Sticker" has always been a sales instrument published by the factory, with no connection to reality (other than the clueless who feel it's mandatory).
The Dealer Wholesale was the best starting point for car purchasing negotiations, as it's a hard number, difficult (but not impossible) to find.
The purchase WS is the car's WS + WS costs of each of the factory-installed options + mandatory dealer charges (shipping or delivery).
To this you add the dealer installed options you wish to pay for, (IE: alarm, sat radio, etc.), + dealer services you also wish to pay for (Car Tag & Title).
Do NOT pay for dealer services that are (or should be) a part of the car, or of the dealer's overhead, IE: floor mats, full tank of gas, shipping prep, and a bunch of other profit-scams.
To all the above, you add a fair profit, depending on the make, model, and LOCAL sales conditions. This can be anything from $200 to $4000 or more.

It sounds like a lot of work, but when I did it, the research and negotiations prior to finding a dealer willing to sell a car that I wanted, using this method, took me about 35 man-hours, and saved me over $1,800. (A pretty good hourly rate, eh?)
+1 ... with modest preparation the car shopper also presents him or her self as to be an "EDUCATED CONSUMER" -- one less likely to fall for manipulation by an unscrupulous sales person!
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My opinions are free - you'll get exactly what you pay for!
Current: '17 540 xDrive | '13 X1 MSport | '98 Z3 2.8
Past: '13 535xDrive|'07 530xi|'01 740i|'98 740i|'94 740i |'86 524TD
"Seek and ye shall find" - start with your owner's manual!


Click on the MrRebates logo/link for cash back savings at on-line stores like Tirerack!Mr. Rebates
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  #6  
Old 08-25-2019, 02:48 PM
Yukoner Yukoner is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mech_Man View Post
Do NOT pay for dealer services that are (or should be) a part of the car, or of the dealer's overhead, IE: floor mats, full tank of gas, shipping prep, and a bunch of other profit-scams.
PDI (Pre-Delivery Inspection), documentation fee, etc etc Pretty quickly you're adding $2K to $3K onto the price of a new vehicle. I HATE that crap.
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Old 08-25-2019, 05:50 PM
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BMW4Lee BMW4Lee is offline
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There are also "dealer incentives" a.k.a. "trunk money" -- but those are much harder to determine. Any incentives will most likely be for a 2019 rather than a 2020.

https://www.investopedia.com/terms/d...-incentive.asp
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Old 08-27-2019, 01:51 PM
NorCal650 NorCal650 is offline
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Mike,

My method is to go to www.TrueCar.com I bought my last new car from a dealer who presented their best offer there and I saved $6,000 off MSRP. The next closest price was $3,000 more. I don't work for them and I'm not in the car business.

I have recommended this to to someone who never purchased a new car and they felt completely comfortable negotiating the transaction.

You can check out the prices that local dealers would sell you the car and then decide to continue or not. The dealer pays a finders' fee if the deal is done. You pay nothing.

Good luck,

Dave
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