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E63 / E64 6 Series (2004 - 2010)
The E63/E64 BMW 6 Series builds on BMW's sporty heritage with aggressive lines and an incredible motor to back the design up. Available in coupe and convertible trims with a standard 4.8 liter engine producing 360 horsepower and 360 lb-ft of torque, the 6-series is a popular choice that exceeds expectations.

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Old 08-15-2018, 01:54 AM
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Hsurf Hsurf is offline
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Location: East Sussex
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Mein Auto: E63 645ci
Remember your 05 630i came with two different alternators a 185amp or a 155amp, you need to be sure you have the right voltage regulator.

E63 645Ci
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Old 08-15-2018, 03:34 AM
Jdf75 Jdf75 is offline
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Mein Auto: 630ci
Thanks Herb, They said that the battery was registered - but as it's just been fully discharged and recharged, plus is still new and fresh I'll do it again and see if that helps.

I didnt change the VR - that was another guy! But the electrical specialists who tested the battery said that there did not seem to be a problem with the VR in my car, but I might check anyway and the DME as well as I have a suspicion that there might gremlins in there.

Valvetronic Actuator Motor - the new part is fine, but he wanted it changed even though there seemed no reason behind it - the old one seemed to work OK. The shaft sensor had oil in the connector and I hear that's a common problem so that change was worthwhile and might as well do both at the same time. That will hopefully clear the 2A98 'Crankshaft inlet camshaft correlation' fault code. I also had a '2D2A Pressure Difference Sensor - Suction tube adaption' fault so I'll check the differential pressure sensor to make sure there is no obvious problem there.

Regarding the tranny (it's a 2005 630 BTW) the only thing I can think of is the torque converter if I'm getting lockup clutch problems (fault code 4F53), maybe (longshot) that is causing the heat build up and triggers transmission overheat. That or the tranny temperature sensor (dunno where that is) is bad and there is really no problem, which could well be true as a quick turn off for 10mins then back on always clears the idrive of the fault and I can drive again and everything seems to work OK - as long as I limp along and drive like a granny - if I use the throttle even slightly aggressively it will come back. Once when I ignored the tranny overheat eventually the power assist shut down as well and then the car cut out altogether. Waited 20mins, did the steering assist 'fix' (all the way left, then right then left again on the steering wheel) and seemed to be OK for a while straight after.

So annoying - I wish I knew what the problem is so I could rely on the car, not have to have every long drive a boring one in case the tranny overheats. Sort of feels like the car is possessedby (by Miss Daisy), maybe I need a priest!

Last edited by Jdf75; 08-15-2018 at 03:35 AM.
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