It's my turn for the E39 TRANS. FAILSAFE PROG transmission failure stuck in high gear - Page 2 - Bimmerfest - BMW Forums



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E39 (1997 - 2003)
The BMW 5-Series (E39 chassis) was introduced in the United States as a 1997 model year car and lasted until the 2004 when the E60 chassis was released. The United States saw several variations including the 525i, 528i, 530i and 540i. -- View the E39 Wiki

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  #26  
Old 09-03-2013, 10:40 AM
HTK12 HTK12 is offline
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I would still get the cable and pull the codes.
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  #27  
Old 09-03-2013, 10:52 AM
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Originally Posted by HTK12 View Post
I would still get the cable and pull the codes.
Understood.
I'll look for the cheaper dual K line K+CAN USB cable.

If I can find a reliable inexpensive dual K line K+DCAN, I'll get that but I'd have to ensure both pins 7 and 8 exist as K lines.

It isn't as easy as it would appear to find the right cable, and to be sure it's the right cable, based on the description on the web though.
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  #28  
Old 10-13-2013, 09:01 PM
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Just to update this, I've been to Tahoe twice since the Trans Failsafe, and it has not returned, so, I think we can close this case.
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  #29  
Old 10-13-2013, 11:04 PM
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trans failsafe

Hi Blubee,

Can I just add that I am jealous of your great pixels!!
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  #30  
Old 10-14-2013, 12:19 AM
Joelgk Joelgk is offline
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I have had no such luck. Car has remained in the TFSP mode for 2 weeks now. Have not driven it as I have been out of the country. I guess, I will have to take it to the dealer to do a scan.
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  #31  
Old 10-14-2013, 06:27 AM
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Originally Posted by gibo58 View Post
Hi Blubee,

Can I just add that I am jealous of your great pixels!!
The dealer had replaced my cluster under warranty some time around 2005:
- What are 'all' options when your instrument cluster or MID pixels slowly die due to a press-fit pink electrical-connection tape lifting off its contacts over time (1)
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  #32  
Old 10-14-2013, 06:36 AM
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I guess, I will have to take it to the dealer to do a scan.
If you take it to the dealer, how much will the diagnostics cost?

More than about $50?
Do you have a WinXP laptop?
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  #33  
Old 10-14-2013, 04:06 PM
Joelgk Joelgk is offline
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Yes Bluebee and I know they don't know much about the E39 as much as I do (thanks to the forum). Yes, I can get a winXP laptop from my office.
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  #34  
Old 10-15-2013, 03:39 PM
Aussie528iT Aussie528iT is offline
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Bluebee,
Have a look at this interface. (For future reference perhaps if the trans fail message comes up again?)
http://www.one-stop-electronics.com/...&product_id=16
Its not the cheapest but it works on all BMWs from 1998 up to the latest F series vehicles. It has K line plus DCAN capability. I purchased one to help a friend try to interface with an R56 series BMW MINI. I already had a serial port cable and 20 pin adaptor but it wouldn't communicate with the post 2009 MINI. It comes with an adaptor which allows it to work on cars wich use either OBD pin 7 only or pins 7 & 8. Later cars from, IIRC, some time in 2009 use pin 8 for LAN purposes when connected to the latest dealer diagnostic equipment. It works with INPA, NCS etc. My car only has the 20 pin socket so I have to use an OBD to 20 pin adaptor but everything works. Only trap is that you must use the same USB port you used when you originally installed the FTDI driver software.

Hope this helps
RonR
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  #35  
Old 10-15-2013, 04:03 PM
HTK12 HTK12 is offline
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Originally Posted by Aussie528iT View Post
Bluebee,
Have a look at this interface. (For future reference perhaps if the trans fail message comes up again?)
http://www.one-stop-electronics.com/...&product_id=16
Its not the cheapest but it works on all BMWs from 1998 up to the latest F series vehicles. It has K line plus DCAN capability. I purchased one to help a friend try to interface with an R56 series BMW MINI. I already had a serial port cable and 20 pin adaptor but it wouldn't communicate with the post 2009 MINI. It comes with an adaptor which allows it to work on cars wich use either OBD pin 7 only or pins 7 & 8. Later cars from, IIRC, some time in 2009 use pin 8 for LAN purposes when connected to the latest dealer diagnostic equipment. It works with INPA, NCS etc. My car only has the 20 pin socket so I have to use an OBD to 20 pin adaptor but everything works. Only trap is that you must use the same USB port you used when you originally installed the FTDI driver software.

Hope this helps
RonR
That is one of the worst deals I've ever seen on K+DCAN cable. It costs $100 and it won't even come with the software. If you want a good quality cable I would get it from seller that also offers one click install. There are quite a few. To name one that is highly regarded: http://cable-shack.co.uk.
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  #36  
Old 10-15-2013, 04:21 PM
Joelgk Joelgk is offline
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Questions:

1. So which cable do we buy to read all codes/reset/transmission and engine codes?
2. Which soft ware do we download, that connects with the cable as above to read.... as above?
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  #37  
Old 10-15-2013, 07:18 PM
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Originally Posted by Joelgk View Post
Yes, I can get a winXP laptop from my office.
Good.

My point was that, for the price of a cable, we can do our own scans because we can download the dealer software ourselves:
Making sense of the most often recommended BMW diagnostic tools & cable interfaces (1)

However, the actual cable choice has always confused me because we need dual K (on pins 7 & 8) but most newer USB cables are only single K.

But, most advertisers don't tell you whether they're dual K or just single K,and, if they're single K, you need to adapt the cable somehow.

If someone knew of a good dual-K cable, I'd buy it at the right price.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Aussie528iT View Post
For future reference perhaps if the trans fail message comes up again?)
Actually, I still want to unset the darn door autolocking feature.
BMW thinks we all live in war zones such that we have the lock all the doors the moment we get out of our driveway...
- How to disable automatic door locks (1) (2)

Quote:
Originally Posted by Aussie528iT View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by HTK12 View Post
If you want a good quality cable I would get it from seller that also offers one click install. There are quite a few. To name one that is highly regarded: http://cable-shack.co.uk.
I'll have to see what they sell, as all I want is a dumb simple dual-K USB OBDII cable.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Joelgk View Post
Questions:
1. So which cable do we buy to read all codes/reset/transmission and engine codes?
2. Which soft ware do we download, that connects with the cable as above to read.... as above?
I didn't look what year your vehicle is, but, all E39s use the software I mentioned above.
There are two cables for the E39 (depending on whether you have the 20-pin pacman port or only the 16-pin OBDII port).

For me, I simply need to find the dumbest simplest (KISS) dual-K 16-pin cable (with K on the 7th and 8th pins IIRC), and that's all I need.

I'm so afraid of getting the wrong one that I'd just want to buy what someone else already bought for a similar year and found to work. If your vehicle is similar to mine in year, then you need the same cable as I do.

Cost "should" be less than $50.
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  #38  
Old 10-16-2013, 03:23 AM
HTK12 HTK12 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bluebee View Post
Good.

If someone knew of a good dual-K cable, I'd buy it at the right price.
Well cable shack sells simple dual K-can cable with the one click install for ~$50 shipped to US. That is quite a good deal considering it comes with all the needed software and install is breeze, because you just need one click for each software to install. If you still have problems installing it they will help you via remote connection.




Quote:
Originally Posted by Joelgk View Post
Questions:

1. So which cable do we buy to read all codes/reset/transmission and engine codes?
2. Which soft ware do we download, that connects with the cable as above to read.... as above?
This depends on what model year your car is. For pre 2000 e39 you'll need the double K-line OBD cable+ 16 to 20 pin adapter.

Quote:
Originally Posted by bluebee View Post

For me, I simply need to find the dumbest simplest (KISS) dual-K 16-pin cable (with K on the 7th and 8th pins IIRC), and that's all I need.

I'm so afraid of getting the wrong one that I'd just want to buy what someone else already bought for a similar year and found to work. If your vehicle is similar to mine in year, then you need the same cable as I do.

Cost "should" be less than $50.

The cheapest good quality double K-CAN cable that I could find is ~$50 shipped to US. Bluebee There is no danger of getting the wrong cable, if you buy the K-Line USB Cable from cable shack. That the 100% the correct cable for your car. I would recommend you to buy it from place like cable shack you don't need to worry about the cable or the software.

Cheapest cable would be vag com cable. Those you can get for less than $5.

Last edited by HTK12; 10-16-2013 at 07:53 AM. Reason: Fixed quote
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  #39  
Old 10-16-2013, 06:17 AM
pshovest pshovest is offline
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Not-the-cheapest, perhaps, but it is a proven performer based on many forum recommendations. It also has the adapter allowing it to work on 01-03 E39 w/OBD2 only port as well as the Bimmers I expect to own when I get tired of the E39. The one-stop cable is also available on ebay for ~$80.

A flashy website for sure, but I don't see any mention cable-shack provides any software. Please point us in the right direction. What software did they provide to you?


Quote:
Originally Posted by HTK12 View Post
That is one of the worst deals I've ever seen on K+DCAN cable. It costs $100 and it won't even come with the software. If you want a good quality cable I would get it from seller that also offers one click install. There are quite a few. To name one that is highly regarded: http://cable-shack.co.uk.
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  #40  
Old 10-16-2013, 07:48 AM
HTK12 HTK12 is offline
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Originally Posted by pshovest View Post
Not-the-cheapest, perhaps, but it is a proven performer based on many forum recommendations. It also has the adapter allowing it to work on 01-03 E39 w/OBD2 only port as well as the Bimmers I expect to own when I get tired of the E39. The one-stop cable is also available on ebay for ~$80.

A flashy website for sure, but I don't see any mention cable-shack provides any software. Please point us in the right direction. What software did they provide to you?

They offer pretty much all the software you can get. Ediabas package (Ediabas , DIS( aka GT-1).. Just read from their website. All the software that they mention is included in the package. Their ebay listing is a bit clearer about the what is included: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BMW-USB-OB...item3f27404495

I didn't buy the cable from them, because I bought it way before the was any one click installers around. However I do know quite a few BMW forum members have bought it and very happy (non english forum).


Sorry for the stubby reply but the forum ate my first response.
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  #41  
Old 10-16-2013, 10:05 AM
pshovest pshovest is offline
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There are many ebay vendors that offer the software with the cable, but it's impossible to find someone claiming a successful install using ebay software. If this is indeed a one-touch install, then this is a HUGE improvement.

Perhaps the mods can make this a new thread/sticky and HTK12 can provide other links to successful installs. As one who struggled for days to get a working DIS intallation, following various forum links, etc, a one-touch install is unimaginable. Having been thru all the difficulty of getting a working system, I've learned the trick seems to be to get a VM image of the various packages.....DIS42/57, Progman. Installing the VM image is a 30 minute job. Perhaps this is what the one-touch install does.


Quote:
Originally Posted by HTK12 View Post
They offer pretty much all the software you can get. Ediabas package (Ediabas , DIS( aka GT-1).. Just read from their website. All the software that they mention is included in the package. Their ebay listing is a bit clearer about the what is included: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BMW-USB-OB...item3f27404495

I didn't buy the cable from them, because I bought it way before the was any one click installers around. However I do know quite a few BMW forum members have bought it and very happy (non english forum).


Sorry for the stubby reply but the forum ate my first response.

Last edited by pshovest; 10-16-2013 at 10:05 AM. Reason: typos
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  #42  
Old 10-16-2013, 11:32 AM
HTK12 HTK12 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pshovest View Post
There are many ebay vendors that offer the software with the cable, but it's impossible to find someone claiming a successful install using ebay software. If this is indeed a one-touch install, then this is a HUGE improvement.
How on earth didn't you find any telling about their successful install? Did you even google any of those sellers? Using google you'll find PLENTY of succesfull installs. I'll give you one link: http://www.bmwland.co.uk/forums/view...p?f=4&t=136024.

Quote:
Originally Posted by pshovest View Post
Perhaps the mods can make this a new thread/sticky and HTK12 can provide other links to successful installs. As one who struggled for days to get a working DIS intallation, following various forum links, etc, a one-touch install is unimaginable. Having been thru all the difficulty of getting a working system, I've learned the trick seems to be to get a VM image of the various packages.....DIS42/57, Progman. Installing the VM image is a 30 minute job. Perhaps this is what the one-touch install does.
Why one earth did you install DIS yourself?! You can find plenty of ready VMWare compatible images. Just copy it to appropriate folder, import it to virtualization software of your liking and run it. It was that simple even years ago. Same goes for Progman.

I personally don't care much for one click install, because I can now get the system fully fuctional under an hour (install Ediabas and copy DIS & Progman images). It's easy after you have done it over 10 times. I recommend people to buy one click install cable & software bundle, because the first time it can be quite challenging, if your not computer savvy.
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  #43  
Old 10-16-2013, 12:19 PM
pshovest pshovest is offline
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There is no need to google if we have successful installs. I don't need the link, but clearly there are many who do.

Quote:
Originally Posted by HTK12 View Post
..........How on earth didn't you find any telling about their successful install? Did you even google any of those sellers? Using google you'll find PLENTY of succesfull installs. I'll give you one link: http://www.bmwland.co.uk/forums/view...p?f=4&t=136024.......
It simple....I've been running EDIABAS/INPA & DIS for a long time. Early adopters didn't have the luxury of searching for VM images. Rest assured I have everything I need. Just had to do a re-install as XP crashed and I needed a clean install.

Quote:
Originally Posted by HTK12 View Post
......Why one earth did you install DIS yourself?! You can find plenty of ready VMWare compatible images. Just copy it to appropriate folder, import it to virtualization software of your liking and run it. It was that simple even years ago. Same goes for Progman...........
EDIABAS/INPA doesn't count....they're a 20 minute install without a one click solution. DIS & Progman need the images.

Quote:
Originally Posted by HTK12 View Post
I personally don't care much for one click install, because I can now get the system fully fuctional under an hour (install Ediabas and copy DIS & Progman images). It's easy after you have done it over 10 times. I recommend people to buy one click install cable & software bundle, because the first time it can be quite challenging, if your not computer savvy..........
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  #44  
Old 10-16-2013, 12:49 PM
HTK12 HTK12 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pshovest View Post
It simple....I've been running EDIABAS/INPA & DIS for a long time. Early adopters didn't have the luxury of searching for VM images. Rest assured I have everything I need. Just had to do a re-install as XP crashed and I needed a clean install.
Well DIS VM images have been around from 2008 maybe earlier.

Quote:
Originally Posted by pshovest View Post
EDIABAS/INPA doesn't count....they're a 20 minute install without a one click solution. DIS & Progman need the images.
Anyone can download working DIS/Progman images and start them, but many people have issues configuring Ediabas or VMWare.
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  #45  
Old 12-25-2013, 01:12 AM
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For the record, here's another fix for a trans failsafe prog today ...
> E39 (1997 - 2003) > FIX : E39 Trans FailSafe Prog
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mystic66 View Post
Hi All.
Noticed that we don't always put the fix up on the blogs , just the questions. So here is my fix for MY version of the 'trans failsafe prog' problem. Hope it helps someone down the track.

Got the message, and car went to limp mode (locked in third gear).

Dutifully searched the blogs and got many suggestions. Mostly around low battery or alternator probs , and some suggesting fuses.

Battery good, alternator good, couldn't find a blown fuse (but later did).

Got codes read by a friend.
P0051 powertrain - HO2S Heater control
P0031 powertrain - HO2S Heater control
P0600 powertrain - Serial communication link fail

seems to be strange combination of codes, until you know that the harness that contains the trans controls and the O2 monitor wires all use the one 30 amp fuse.

Found out there was some fuses under the bonnet, under the cabin air inlet boxes. Found a blown 30 amp fuse (ah ha!)
Replaced fuse and had someone watch while I turned ingnition on. Wire started to melt on the ecu side of the fuse. Note that the fuse did not blow, but the insulation on the wire melted !!!!! Turned off after a few seconds.

Tracked the suspect hot wire to the loom, and then to one of the O2 sensor sheaths. Felt the sheaths and the wire inside seemed to be a lot harder than that in the other O2 sheath.

For info , the O2 sensor has two heater wires, and two sensor wires (if wrong.. someone please correct.)

Turns out that the sheath had got very hot near the back corner of the engne. Too near the exhaust. No apparent damage to the sheath, but when I split it open I found the wires all melted together. There was a short between that point and the fuse. (not in the direction of the o2 sensor.)

So problem discovered. If you see the combo of error codes with the Trans and O2 sensors, it may be that fuse, and the reason it is blown may be a short in the feed to the O2 sensors/trans. Mine was.

MY FIX.
Paid my sparky friend to replace the 4 wires with melted insulation. He also checked out the computer for probs. Wires were routed thru the original loom, joins soldered etc.
Reset codes, all OK and now done 300 km since fix.
Still to do... replace heats-hield sheath to O2 sensor. Currently jury rigged.
Find out where the loom has to fix to keep it away from exhaust. (previous owner may have done something 'differently' as it didn't seem to be tightly attached to anything where it passes between engine and firewall.

THOUGHTS
I saw someone ask on a blog why these frail wires are protected by a whopping 30 amp fuse. Since it has to withstand the power of two sets of O2 heater wires, plus two O2 sensor wires, plus the transmission sensor/control wires... the total drain may be quite high. needing a fuse higher than the need of any one wire.
The problem is that a short across any two wires will not blow the fuse.. as I found out.!!!
My wires were happy to keep heating up until they melted together for a distance of two feet. Not happy.

Can someone tell me why the O2 heater/sensor wires are deliberately run close to the engine block and the exhaust shield?? It seem very deliberate as there is an alternative loom that goes nowhere near the block. If they used that, they could just exit to their exhaust connection when they needed to.
I do notice these wires run hot anyway.. is that something to do with the O2 sensor heater wire pairs? Does the heater continue to draw current when the engine is hot, or just when cold.

OTHER recent probs.
Check rear taillight problem turned out to be a bad connection within the light holder.
Check reversing light problem turned out to be a bad connection within the light holder.
Slight oil leak eminating from a hairline crack in valve cover gasket near central bolt. Plastic !!!
Of course, oil drops down onto the exhaust shield, then drops over the edge of that and just catches the edge of the exhaust... so oil fumes. Anyone have good ways of fixing hairline cracks in plastic valve cover gaskets ??

Hope this post will give someone some clues in future.
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  #46  
Old 01-19-2014, 02:40 PM
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Useful information posted today:
Quote:
Originally Posted by 1lemone39 View Post
I just purchased a 2003 525i with 152k on the clock.The check engine lamp would come on at traffic lights when stopped occasionally along with the transmission limp mode. The code was p0720. One other odd thing was I noticed all the lamps in the car were flickering or pulsing.
The car had a rebuilt bosh alternator that did not look very old. Upon checking the alternator with an old style analog needle type meter the charging output it was swinging low to high.
I put a digital volt meter on it and it would not pick up the rapid swing in voltage.

This had every symptom of a bad alternator. I replaced the alternator with a reman Bosch unit and it seemed to be fine. 2 days later here we go again with the check engine lamp and trans light again? Same code p0720 !

I found a loose ground cable from the battery on the rear body panel that looked good until you gave it a tug. Tightened the cabe and it has been fine ever since!
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  #47  
Old 01-30-2014, 10:13 PM
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Here's another nicely documented trans failsafe prog for others to benefit from:
> E39 (1997 - 2003) > Trans Failsafe Prog - A chronicle of diagnosis & repair

Quote:
Originally Posted by ak_inshok View Post
Hello – I thought I would chronicle my "Trans Failsafe Prog" adventure so others can see what is involved in the process. Feel free to comment or add helpful tips along the way. I am not a professional but do have much experience with many gasoline cars/trucks. If you don't like stories then scroll down to the pictures or video links.

The car:

1997 BMW 540i Automatic (4.4L V8 – M62) 135,xxx miles

The Story:

I purchased this car from someone who could not afford the diagnosis or repair. They loved the car but they were in no position to fork out $3000-$6000 for a transmission as they were told it could be. They said they were just diving one day and after a traffic light stop, when they accelerated the error came on the dash, "Trans Failsafe Prog". They said it was very sluggish and drove straight to a German car specialist here in Anchorage Alaska. They did mention that the reverse gear worked just fine with no loss of power. They could not tackle the error and suggested taking it to the dealer or a transmission repair shop. So they proceeded to pay to have it towed to three shops; $300 + the first diagnostic. At the German car specialist they drained and changed the fluid while the owner watched. The fluid was dirty but not black and goopy nor any chunks. The first trans. shop said, "your trans has black goo coming out with bits of metal, not good, need a new one, $5000-$6000", charged for a drain refill and diag. The second shop said, "your trans is toast and will need to be rebuilt, $3000", charged for a drain refill and diag. The third shop said, "yah, its toast, needs a rebuild, $3800", charged for diag and they did not put fluid back in it. So, it was towed back to the German car specialist in thought that a used one could be sourced from a Washington state wrecker, they were willing to R/R it there.

They decided just to sell it on CL. They were asking $2800, I paid $1500 cash. Before anyone says I ripped them off consider how much the car is work in perfect condition and how much the average joe would pay for a repair in this case. Not to mention they said two others had offered $1500 already and they thought I could make it live again and not send it to scrap.





The Diagnosis:

I had it towed to my house and had the slideback shove it into my back yard through a narrow gate,$95 towing + tip. They did a great job. Then it started to snow quarter size flakes. Oh well, someday I will start looking into this. So, the next few weeks I spent trying to research the "Trans Prog. Failsafe" code and ended up here. I read all of Bluebee's posts on the subject including all of the thread links. Thank you Bluebee for doing all that extensive and exhaustive linking as well as others that helped or offered different perspectives on the issue.

http://s49.photobucket.com/user/ak_i...6c1ec.mp4.html

http://s49.photobucket.com/user/ak_i...98992.mp4.html

I started looking into diagnostic hardware/software and decided on the INPA package. I ordered a cable set and software from xcar360.com ….... I do not recommend them, see thread here https://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho...462&highlight= . The software they sent was missing files so I downloaded it somewhere, though not through Bluebee's explanation on diagnostics because the links were dead. I ended up with Ediabas 6.4.3 & INPA 4.4.7 Versions. I finally got it installed correctly on an old Win2000 Compaq laptop. Here is a few links to video of my INPA run:

http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f2...865e2.mp4.html

http://s49.photobucket.com/user/ak_i...5d0d6.mp4.html

http://s49.photobucket.com/user/ak_i...8fcca.mp4.html

I am starting to get a picture of what to start with. I do know that the factory key buttons do not work, "Key In Ignition Lock" appears on the dash without the key in, the headlights stay on no matter the position on the switch, and the steering wheel adjustment does not work at all. It does have an aftermarket auto-start that does work and a hidden radar detector that makes noise when I turn a little knob on the dash. The car is currently up on stands/boards and large truck wheels stuffed under the mid-section just in case.

Here is how I am going to prioritize the diagnosis:
### = Done

1. Get battery tested ### (It tested borderline @ Batteries Plus so I replaced it with a like battery)
2. Disconnect, clean the two trans. harness connectors with QD Electronic cleaner, reconnect ###
3. Fill transmission in "N" heated between 30*C-60*C with correct fluid with a hand pump, switch through gears and recheck fluid level ### (It took 5.5qt before streaming out the fill hole while the car is level, strange but no reverse and all other gear positions work)
4. Run INPA & note codes from engine & trans., then clear codes, note codes still active ### (ASC & ABS lights are now on because the front wheels are not matching speed, when the new round diag. cable comes in I will reset these too)
5. Run Battery & Alternator test, correct any fault there (battery tested 12.88V w/multimeter after sitting disconnected for two days in 10*F)
6. Retest with INPA, clear and note still active codes
7. Choose most probable malfunction and test/correct/replace part
8. Retest with INPA, clear and note still active codes
9. Continue

More to come…...
__________________
Please read the suggested threads and add value, either by pictures or by descriptions, so the next person stands on your shoulders.
See also: E39 Bestlinks & How to easily find what you need
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  #48  
Old 02-03-2014, 04:16 PM
jrzavala jrzavala is offline
"Trust but verify"
Location: Los Angeles, CA
 
Join Date: Feb 2014
Posts: 3
Mein Auto: 2002 BMW 530i "Sport"
Trans. FailSafe Prog

Quote:
Originally Posted by Bimmer Remorse View Post
Over the past year my e39 had similar symptons but typically the trans would toggle quickly between high gear and low gear while driving, although twice it did go to safe mode. About two months ago, I noticed some trans oil spotting on my garage floor. I finally took the car to my indie about three weeks ago and the trans was leaking at the trans selector rod seal. Mounted over that seal is the trans position switch located on the driver side of the trans. My switch had some exposed and brittle wires and they were wet from the leaking oil. This *may* have been the culprit and so I had the switch replaced, a $300 part (the more skilled wrenchers can easily DIY). The trans symptons sometimes would be many weeks apart so I'm not prepared to conclude victory yet but so far no trans issues. Anyways, check to see if there is some trans oil leaking around that seal and switch. Just my two cents.

Being a new member, I was doing some research on the proverbial Trans. FailSafe Prog caution on my 2002 530i. I have experienced this phenomenon once prior back in August 2012, replaced the alternator and charged up the 2 year old battery. Since then, no problems til' today. I woke up to the same scenario, the Trans. FailSafe Prog message and a rapidly dying battery. I alerted AAA for battery jump-start service. I was informed by the friendly AAA technician that the alternator was only putting out 5-6 volts of power!?

Anyway, the only difference this time is that there was substantial amount of oil or clear light blue oily fluid (I imagine it is XMSN fluid) on the garage floor. There were NO known leaks prior to this scenario. With all that said, I am stunned that there is a very similar occurrence as I quote this member. I will make sure that my techie knows of this problem, as previously experienced with a Bimmerfest member.

At this juncture, the battery is flat dead. I have a non-operational alternator and I am awaiting on a flat bed for transportation of the BMW to a repair facility.

I will post an update on this matter as it becomes clear what the issues are.

Best,

JR
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  #49  
Old 02-03-2014, 10:14 PM
gibo58's Avatar
gibo58 gibo58 is offline
Officially Welcomed to the 'Fest
Location: Australia
 
Join Date: Oct 2011
Posts: 240
Mein Auto: 530i MSport
Quote:
Originally Posted by jrzavala View Post
Being a new member, I was doing some research on the proverbial Trans. FailSafe Prog caution on my 2002 530i. I have experienced this phenomenon once prior back in August 2012, replaced the alternator and charged up the 2 year old battery. Since then, no problems til' today. I woke up to the same scenario, the Trans. FailSafe Prog message and a rapidly dying battery. I alerted AAA for battery jump-start service. I was informed by the friendly AAA technician that the alternator was only putting out 5-6 volts of power!?

Anyway, the only difference this time is that there was substantial amount of oil or clear light blue oily fluid (I imagine it is XMSN fluid) on the garage floor. There were NO known leaks prior to this scenario. With all that said, I am stunned that there is a very similar occurrence as I quote this member. I will make sure that my techie knows of this problem, as previously experienced with a Bimmerfest member.

At this juncture, the battery is flat dead. I have a non-operational alternator and I am awaiting on a flat bed for transportation of the BMW to a repair facility.

I will post an update on this matter as it becomes clear what the issues are.

Best,


JR
It would be a safe bet that the ''light blue oily fluid' is coolant mate. Check you cooling system for any obvious leaks.
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  #50  
Old 02-04-2014, 05:42 AM
jrzavala jrzavala is offline
"Trust but verify"
Location: Los Angeles, CA
 
Join Date: Feb 2014
Posts: 3
Mein Auto: 2002 BMW 530i "Sport"
Tran failsafe prog / Anti-freeze

I have to enter a correction to my original post. I checked out the source of the leak and failed to make certain the source of the "oily blue fluid" that I assumed to be xmsn fluid. That blue fluid is in fact anit-freeze. It was a mere coincidence that this occurred in tandem with the failure experienced with the 530i. I should've known this prior to my entry on the forum as I recently had services performed on the cooling system.

Many thanks to Bimmerfest member down under, Gibo58 for pointing this out.

JR
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Tags
failsafe, failsafe mode, trans fail safe, trans. failsafe mode, transmission, transmission failure


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