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BMW i3 I01 (2014 - Current)
The BMW i3 and BMW i8 are the first two cars launch under BMW's new sub brand BMW i. The i3 is an all carbon fiber, all electric vehicle meant for urban mobility.

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Old 08-28-2018, 11:37 AM
sipabit sipabit is offline
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Tire patch FYI

Air was slowly leaking out at a rate of 10psi over 4-5 days. Been just filling it with air 3x or so and finally took it in to patch but the shop refused to do it. They insisted that b/c it doesn't have a spare tire, that the tire has a runflat and therefore can't be plugged. I told them it's not a runflat, but they're sticking to their outdated rules and refused to help me.

Headed over to another shop where they're doing it now. They're able to do it with the car still on the ground and without even taking the tire off. Was a bit worried they were going to use a can of Fixaflat which I would've been able to do myself, but they used an actual plug. Thanks!

Just thought I'd share this story in case anyone gets a flat to know how shops may respond. Share any comments or experiences below about flat tires (mine wasn't really flat), or leaky tires and shops.
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  #2  
Old 08-28-2018, 01:23 PM
The Other Tom The Other Tom is offline
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Thanks. I assume it had a small nail or screw ?
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Old 08-28-2018, 04:09 PM
jadnashuanh jadnashuanh is online now
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While plugging a hole without dismounting may work, it is not the industry accepted method to do it...the best way to do it is from the inside which has a patch with a nub that goes into and is sealed to the hole. It also gives you an opportunity to verify that the damage isn't greater than one might expect when looking from the outside.

FWIW, a RFT or zero pressure one will say so on the sidewall...a tire dealer that doesn't know that doesn't inspire confidence! There's a subtle difference between RFT and zero pressure...a RFT is guaranteed to have 50-miles at the indicated maximum speed and load...a zero pressure one's max range will depend on load, and may only be half of a RFT's at maximum load. Both should easily let you maintain control and get yourself somewhere safer to stop without damaging the wheel or losing control than a standard tire.

The only time a RFT is considered safe to patch is if it was never actually run flat. Since that's hard to prove, some manufacturers won't warranty it and their dealers won't repair it...but, like any tire, if it's a slow leak and you don't drive it actually flat, it should be able to be repaired as long as it's in the tread and not the sidewall.
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Old 08-28-2018, 07:16 PM
Autoputzer Autoputzer is online now
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jadnashuanh View Post
While plugging a hole without dismounting may work, it is not the industry accepted method to do it...the best way to do it is from the inside which has a patch with a nub that goes into and is sealed to the hole. It also gives you an opportunity to verify that the damage isn't greater than one might expect when looking from the outside.

FWIW, a RFT or zero pressure one will say so on the sidewall...a tire dealer that doesn't know that doesn't inspire confidence! There's a subtle difference between RFT and zero pressure...a RFT is guaranteed to have 50-miles at the indicated maximum speed and load...a zero pressure one's max range will depend on load, and may only be half of a RFT's at maximum load. Both should easily let you maintain control and get yourself somewhere safer to stop without damaging the wheel or losing control than a standard tire.

The only time a RFT is considered safe to patch is if it was never actually run flat. Since that's hard to prove, some manufacturers won't warranty it and their dealers won't repair it...but, like any tire, if it's a slow leak and you don't drive it actually flat, it should be able to be repaired as long as it's in the tread and not the sidewall.
+1

Here's what a proper "plug-patch" looks like. They also drill out the puncture hole, making it round and the proper diameter to accept the plug. If the puncture is in an outer tread block, near the sidewall, it can't be reliably repaired.
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Old 08-29-2018, 08:36 AM
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bocabimmer bocabimmer is offline
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The problem I found with these tires is that they’re so narrow the probability is that the puncture will be too close to the sidewall to repair. Had that happen three times.

Also, why the heck were my tires such screw magnets? 3 punctures in 2 years... never had that many punctures on all my other cars cumulatively.


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Old 08-29-2018, 12:43 PM
rice_rocket88 rice_rocket88 is offline
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I used to be a little bit more OCD about patching because they did use a proper patch/plug patch where I came from in Canada. However... in my area ZERO shops use the proper patch, even if you say you'll buy one they won't do it. All of them use the cheapo tire plug method. Of course with that being said, it's SUPER easy for me to do it myself. I've plugged probably 30+ tires over the years and none had problems. However, on my own car, when I used to track it or even drag race it I would never run on a plugged tire. I guess the plugs work pretty good, I have no idea why no tire shops would do it the normal way, even if I had to pay like $30 or so I'd do it. Heck, some shops say they'll even do the regular plug for free here.. but will always try to upsell you to buy new tires.
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Old 02-20-2019, 12:15 PM
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As always its about liability. Its hard to find shops that will install your parts too. As for plugs, Im 62 and have been using gummy worms since I was a teanager and into my Mechanic days. I put them on my cars and motorcycles as long as its near center of tire and theres plenty of tread. Had just installed a rear tire on my bike and it got a large screw in it (300 miles), put a plug in it and figured Id put a couple thou on it. Forgot the time and realized I had put 11 thou on it with still plenty of tread...um, yea, time to change.
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Old 02-26-2019, 05:48 AM
jaye944 jaye944 is offline
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correct sir !





Quote:
Originally Posted by jadnashuanh View Post
While plugging a hole without dismounting may work, it is not the industry accepted method to do it...the best way to do it is from the inside which has a patch with a nub that goes into and is sealed to the hole. It also gives you an opportunity to verify that the damage isn't greater than one might expect when looking from the outside.

FWIW, a RFT or zero pressure one will say so on the sidewall...a tire dealer that doesn't know that doesn't inspire confidence! There's a subtle difference between RFT and zero pressure...a RFT is guaranteed to have 50-miles at the indicated maximum speed and load...a zero pressure one's max range will depend on load, and may only be half of a RFT's at maximum load. Both should easily let you maintain control and get yourself somewhere safer to stop without damaging the wheel or losing control than a standard tire.

The only time a RFT is considered safe to patch is if it was never actually run flat. Since that's hard to prove, some manufacturers won't warranty it and their dealers won't repair it...but, like any tire, if it's a slow leak and you don't drive it actually flat, it should be able to be repaired as long as it's in the tread and not the sidewall.
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