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  #1  
Old 04-18-2020, 06:46 AM
Al C Al C is offline
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06 Z4M, Top go down, No go Up



Just picked up my 06 Z4M.
Knew about this issue before purchase....took additional discount!

Electric motor fine.
Hydralics fine on down button
Wont come out of the boot on up button,,,although its trying real hard.

Any clues or suggestions more than welcome
Thanks
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  #2  
Old 04-21-2020, 09:26 AM
Stinger22 Stinger22 is offline
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I released the **** valve on the hydraulics and after the electric latching motor does it's thing just manually lift or lower the top, it's not hard and can even do sitting in the car.
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Old 04-21-2020, 11:18 PM
Andyz4 Andyz4 is offline
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Some ideas. If your lift motor sounds like it is racing when raising the top (i.e. running faster than when lowering it), you may be low on fluid or have air in hydraulic lines, or the relief valve is stuck. If motor is dragging, either something is binding, there is a hydraulic restriction, or your pump motor might be on it's way out.
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Old 04-23-2020, 05:20 AM
Al C Al C is offline
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Originally Posted by Andyz4 View Post
Some ideas. If your lift motor sounds like it is racing when raising the top (i.e. running faster than when lowering it), you may be low on fluid or have air in hydraulic lines, or the relief valve is stuck. If motor is dragging, either something is binding, there is a hydraulic restriction, or your pump motor might be on it's way out.
Thanks.
Motor is dragging on way up. Running as new on way down. For fluid top off or air bleed, does the motor and pump down in the well need to be accessed? If so, what do you think about doing the motor/pump relo into the trunk? Mustang upgrade unit?Thanks for your opinion.
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Old 04-24-2020, 11:52 AM
Andyz4 Andyz4 is offline
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Yes, yes and yes. It sounds like the motor is getting tired, but search posts on lubing access points which could buy you some time. If you decide to pull the motor/pump, it's a weekend project but DC Wright and others have posted some great DIY's on the subject and it's not so bad. Also I wholeheartedly recommend both the Mustang motor/pump upgrade and trunk relocate. Mine is super fast and nearly silent, and I can check fluid anytime.
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Last edited by Andyz4; 04-24-2020 at 11:56 AM.
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Old 04-24-2020, 02:31 PM
Al C Al C is offline
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Thanks Andy,

Just couldn't help myself. Took me about 3 hrs to pull the pump/motor out of the well and into the trunk thru the trunk. Everything was high and dry...even looked like a new assembly.Not sure where level should be in the pump reservoir, but I'm sure it aint suppose to be 1/4" with the top down!
Question? how full should the level be? Is there an acceptable alternative to BMW top hydro fluid? Hoping that's the problem...fingers crossed.
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Old 04-24-2020, 08:19 PM
Andyz4 Andyz4 is offline
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Wow that was quick. Oil level seems a bit low but not sure adding fluid would help since the pump isn't cavitating now. Maybe someone else can chime in with suggestions for lubrication points in case the top is binding somewhere. If you end up replacing the motor the 2008-2014 Mustang motor/pump is stronger than the Z4 unit so that should help a lot. Since you already did the hard part, Installation is pretty straightforward as the hydraulic lines switch right over, so does the (shorter) BMW oil reservoir which will give you added clearance for mounting in the trunk. This link is pretty helpful https://www.zpost.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1638377
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Old 04-24-2020, 08:22 PM
Andyz4 Andyz4 is offline
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Standard hydraulic jack fluid (WallyWorld, HF) is fine. Feel free to PM me if I can help.
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Last edited by Andyz4; 04-24-2020 at 08:28 PM.
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Old 04-25-2020, 04:46 AM
Al C Al C is offline
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Thanks Andy!

Gonna try some hydraulic jack fluid today. Hoping that's it. If not, found that ford pump /motor assembly on ebay...$75. May be worth it if that's the issue. Don't even want to think about replacing roof pistons.
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Old 04-25-2020, 10:10 AM
Al C Al C is offline
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Got the hydraulic fluid filled. Lubricated all roof hinge access points. Still same problem. Top goes down slick. On up command, motor just runs and groans.
How could the same pump and motor be so frisky on the top down command and the just moan on the top up command. Any other ideas? Found that mustang replacement for $75.
Just tempted to go ahead and do it just for the up grade. Could a stronger unit be a solution? I'm kinda lost as to what to try next!
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Old 04-25-2020, 01:32 PM
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Clearancediver Clearancediver is online now
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Run it 4 or 5 times up and down... assisting the ďupĒ direction by helping it along with your hands... read over the years in posts that doing so helps get rid of air in the system... itís self bleeding.

Wonít hurt to try...


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Old 04-25-2020, 01:36 PM
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Alternatively... check the manual release cable to ensure the release valve is seated properly... if it isnít that might be the issue.


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Old 04-25-2020, 09:53 PM
Andyz4 Andyz4 is offline
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That's a great deal-- is that for motor and pump? I would jump on it -- the upgrade alone is worth it even if the problem is found elsewhere.
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Old 04-26-2020, 06:55 AM
Al C Al C is offline
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Yep...coming from west coast. Probably do that upgrade just for the experience.
Question? Are the lift pistons ever the problem? Not sure I can get to those without taking the top off AND don't want to tackle that! Guessing if I run the pump a few times and the level in the reservoir goes down, might be a leak somewhere else in the system. I'll search some threads for that issue.
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Old 04-26-2020, 07:08 AM
Al C Al C is offline
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Can pistons be accessed without taking off top. Pump and motor seem to be working fine. If the pistons work fine to put the top down, put don't budge the top on the up command, could they still be leaking?
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Old 04-26-2020, 11:00 PM
Andyz4 Andyz4 is offline
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I think the top would have to come off to access the lift cylinders on both sides, but I wouldn't suspect hydraulics yet as your system seems to be working (albeit slowly). You will notice that in manual mode it takes more effort to raise the top than to drop it. The electric motor/pump has the hydraulic advantage and easily overcomes this difference, but not so much if the motor was borderline. I'm betting your new motor/pump will fix it.
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Old 04-27-2020, 03:10 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Al C View Post
Yep...coming from west coast. Probably do that upgrade just for the experience.
Question? Are the lift pistons ever the problem? Not sure I can get to those without taking the top off AND don't want to tackle that! Guessing if I run the pump a few times and the level in the reservoir goes down, might be a leak somewhere else in the system. I'll search some threads for that issue.
Yes, top has to come off to replace a lift cylinder unfortunately.

You can check the top compartment drain exits for hydraulic fluid residue. If a lift cylinder develops a leak, that's where the fluid goes.

With all air out of the system and the pump in fully vertical postion, the reservoir should be half full. As the pump is tilted toward the horizontal, the side with the hydraulic connections needs to be kept pointed up and there needs to be sufficient fluid to ensure the entire top of the pump is covered. If you have one of the fluid ports on the pump exposed, you'll pump air going one direction, and fluid going the other. If you've had the pump laying horizontal while you've been testing the top, that may be part of your problem. Try propping it up vertically and moving the top up and down. Might take several cycles to get air out of it now.
When you permanently mount the pump in the trunk, you may have to fill the reservoir to 2/3 full, but don't fill it to the top. There needs to be some expansion space or the fluid will pop the reservoir off the top when it gets hot.
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Old 04-28-2020, 03:57 AM
Al C Al C is offline
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Thanks for all the detailed advice guys.
Funny, I mentioned on this thread that I found a ford Mustang motor online for $75+ship.
Went to purchase it the next day after reading all the encouragement and poof it was gone!

Found another but I aint saying where

More help! While putting the trunk back together, found that I had broken the plastic piece on the rear of the driver's seat the molds around the headrest ( very noticeable when top is down). Part# I'm reading off the broken piece is 51.43.7 043 815
Any ideas where to search for this piece, or where to even bring up a parts schematic for the car so I might could get the right part#.
Thank you all once again.
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Old 04-28-2020, 10:28 AM
Andyz4 Andyz4 is offline
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That's too bad-- that was a steal on that item but with the popularity of the 'Stang there are still plenty out there. I think I paid $150.00 for mine with a 30-day warranty from a 2014 car, still a fraction of the price of the replacement OEM motor alone. For that headrest item I would recommend good old Craigslist, there should be a wrecked or parted out car not too far from where you live with that part still in good repair. I would be surprised if you could find the part new anywhere due to the age of these cars.
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Old 04-29-2020, 06:42 AM
Al C Al C is offline
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Thanks Andy.
Had to do a little digging, but found another for same price.
And thanks for the lead on the plastic part. Got one on ebay for very reasonable price.
Now if I can just figure out how to install without breaking it
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Old 04-29-2020, 05:00 PM
Andyz4 Andyz4 is offline
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Good deal Al, I'm sure you will be an expert on how not to break the new part after you destroy your old one removing it.
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Old 04-29-2020, 07:19 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Al C View Post
Thanks for all the detailed advice guys.
Funny, I mentioned on this thread that I found a ford Mustang motor online for $75+ship.
Went to purchase it the next day after reading all the encouragement and poof it was gone!

Found another but I aint saying where

More help! While putting the trunk back together, found that I had broken the plastic piece on the rear of the driver's seat the molds around the headrest ( very noticeable when top is down). Part# I'm reading off the broken piece is 51.43.7 043 815
Any ideas where to search for this piece, or where to even bring up a parts schematic for the car so I might could get the right part#.
Thank you all once again.
Use bmwfans.info or realoem.com to find the part number then Google. There are still a lot of interior parts available for the E85. You may not be happy about the price though.....
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Old 04-30-2020, 08:41 AM
Al C Al C is offline
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Good deal Al, I'm sure you will be an expert on how not to break the new part after you destroy your old one removing it.
I would hope so....BUT...just in case I left that daily search in Ebay so that until I get the new one installed without damage, I'll keep getting morning alerts for that item until further notice
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Old 04-30-2020, 08:43 AM
Al C Al C is offline
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Thanks DC. Found one on ebay for a good price...but because I still have no clue how it goes in...may be looking for more resources
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Old 05-03-2020, 09:47 AM
Al C Al C is offline
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Hi Guys!

Just had time to swap out my original BMW top motor for the new Mustang donor unit.
Followed the instructions to a tee posted by link on the thread. Took 15 minutes tops.
WONDERFUL! Works like a CHAMP. FLYS up and down. Highly recommended!
Found the unit on ebay...$100 included shipping.

Question? The manual release "rig" doesn't match up. no screw holes, no release valve in the new unit, etc....NOT THAT I'M EVER GOING TO NEED IT AGAIN!
But, JIC, anyone know where I can get a comparable release valve to put into one of the free ports on the new unit so I can at least release in emergency, OR is there another work around I missed? Old unit still has release valve in and functions well. But I'll be darned if I can see how to remove it.

Last edited by Al C; 05-03-2020 at 10:20 AM.
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