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E36 (1991 - 1999)
The E36 chassis 3-Series BMW was a huge hit among driving enthusiasts from the first moment the car hit the pavement. The E36 won numerous awards over the years it was produced and is still a favorite of many BMW enthusiasts to this day! -- View the E36 Wiki

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  #8376  
Old 04-10-2020, 02:07 PM
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Having once been deeply involved with photography, it was my experience that lenses don't really depreciate. A good lense is a good lense, regardless of its age, and sellers know that and charge accordingly. I'm sure they drop somewhat, but not very much if you are talking about the higher end stuff.

You can almost always get good deals on "kit" lenses from people who upgrade, though.

My recommendation for someone at Matt's level is to pick either a Nikon or Canon, since they both offer a good selection of lenses.
Were those days pre digital camera era?
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  #8377  
Old 04-10-2020, 02:18 PM
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My camera is still going strong after probably 15k clicks.


Its a small body big lense Sony NEX c3. its perfect for everyday shooting and also those times when i want a professional photoshoot.


Its a point and click. or fully customizable.



The 535xi PPI checked out pretty good. We came to an agreed price.... now i just need to go get it.
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Old 04-10-2020, 04:59 PM
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Were those days pre digital camera era?
Mid-90s through about 2013'ish, so both film & digital.
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Old 04-10-2020, 05:46 PM
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Originally Posted by ZeGerman View Post
Having once been deeply involved with photography, it was my experience that lenses don't really depreciate. A good lense is a good lense, regardless of its age, and sellers know that and charge accordingly. I'm sure they drop somewhat, but not very much if you are talking about the higher end stuff.

You can almost always get good deals on "kit" lenses from people who upgrade, though.

My recommendation for someone at Matt's level is to pick either a Nikon or Canon, since they both offer a good selection of lenses.

Suggestions for actual camera body and lens to start with? Im leaning towards canon dslr even though mirrorless seem to be taking over. My dad has a few canon lenses from the last decade laying around I could use with a dslr.


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Old 04-13-2020, 12:55 AM
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Ended up getting an SL3 and a Canon 50mm 1.8. Time to practice and learn!


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Old 04-13-2020, 08:23 PM
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Ended up getting an SL3 and a Canon 50mm 1.8. Time to practice and learn!
Solid choice. And the 50mm 1.8 prime lens is a great way to start out in photography. Not being able to zoom forces you to think more creatively about framing your shots.
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  #8382  
Old 04-14-2020, 09:14 AM
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Solid choice. And the 50mm 1.8 prime lens is a great way to start out in photography. Not being able to zoom forces you to think more creatively about framing your shots.

I watched many YouTube videos on the nifty fifty. I got one for $85. Im sure Ill expand lenses in the future but its a start.

Ive been using my DJI mavic mini for video stuff lately too. Camera bag getting full!


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Old 04-15-2020, 02:44 PM
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Well, the new car didnt make it home. Ahhhhhh. PPI isnt flawless.


Im 90% sure I blew an oil cooler line. It blew oil all over the place.
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Old 04-22-2020, 03:46 PM
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Well, the new car didnt make it home. Ahhhhhh. PPI isnt flawless.


Im 90% sure I blew an oil cooler line. It blew oil all over the place.
What's the scoop on your new car, Franklyn? What is it?
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  #8385  
Old 04-23-2020, 12:33 AM
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2008 535xi 160k miles. ppi checked out nicely
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Old 04-23-2020, 12:17 PM
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^looks nice. That should make for a nice relaxing DD, oil lines blowing off not withstanding.


With everyone stuck at home, I build a bike with a little 80cc two stroke engine on it for fun. Last night I got it running and gave the family a chance to ride it. The thing is scary fast, not because how fast it goes (around 30 MPH max) but because how janky it feels. Everyone had fun taking it for a little test run around the dumpster and back.

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Old 05-10-2020, 01:02 PM
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Anyone think this clown shoe is worth 20k? I want one so bad and would prefer a fixer upper like this.





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Old 05-10-2020, 05:02 PM
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If it's just about perfect, yes. I wouldn't pay that for one that needed a bunch of work......but, boy, they're getting really hard to find!

And an automatic? Nopers.
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  #8389  
Old 05-10-2020, 07:18 PM
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Anyone think this clown shoe is worth 20k? I want one so bad and would prefer a fixer upper like this.





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This might be a better buy.

https://www.mcoupebuyersguide.com/li...istingID=21290
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  #8390  
Old 05-10-2020, 11:40 PM
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That's a HECK OF A DEAL.
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Old 05-25-2020, 09:41 AM
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If it's just about perfect, yes. I wouldn't pay that for one that needed a bunch of work......but, boy, they're getting really hard to find!

And an automatic? Nopers.

No its a manual, listing is wrong.


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Old 05-25-2020, 09:43 AM
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Silver is too plain for an M coupe IMO.


In other news, LS1 is almost done!




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Old 06-16-2020, 03:37 PM
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So I've finally gotten around to giving this S52 some attention. It had over 200k on it, and this bottom end needed zero attention, every single bearing looked GREAT! Cylinders still have cross hatching, I mean I feel stupid for disassembling it almost. Anyways the outside of this block is very rusty, and I intend to paint it. So far I'm striking out on finding people to media blast this. The machine shop says the only option they have is to put it in a big machine, and for whatever reason they absolutely will not entertain the idea (even if I did it) of protecting the inside of the block from the media blasting which means the block would then have to be bored, honed, and god knows what else. So to me, that's just dumb. I'm waiting to here back from another place to see what they can do. I can simply put the oil pan back on to cover the bottom and I admit it could be challenging to cover everything else. So I'm considering doing electrolysis, I've done it before on some small things, and Alex I know you did it to your block, how well did it work? Are there any risks involved? I'd also be interested if you came across any info that suggested an ideal voltage, and amperage, and amount of time to do it for.

Thanks.
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Old 06-16-2020, 03:44 PM
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Why not treat the outside of the block with Ospho? Zero risk to the inner parts, and it stabilizes the rust. You can paint over it and the evidence of rust disappears.

https://www.google.com/search?client...e-gws-wiz-serp

Edit: my dad used it on the VERY rusty roof of the 71 Firebird we restored. 25 years later it's the ONLY place it hasn't rusted. I wish he'd used it on the barely rusty quarter panels, which are now Swiss cheese.
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  #8395  
Old 06-16-2020, 04:54 PM
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Hmm interesting, haven't seen this particular name come up before, I bet it's just like the stuff that comes with some por15 products I've been using. For real though the outside of this block needs some rust removal or I'll be painting on flakes.
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Old 06-16-2020, 05:08 PM
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Originally Posted by dwonda View Post
So I've finally gotten around to giving this S52 some attention. It had over 200k on it, and this bottom end needed zero attention, every single bearing looked GREAT! Cylinders still have cross hatching, I mean I feel stupid for disassembling it almost. Anyways the outside of this block is very rusty, and I intend to paint it. So far I'm striking out on finding people to media blast this. The machine shop says the only option they have is to put it in a big machine, and for whatever reason they absolutely will not entertain the idea (even if I did it) of protecting the inside of the block from the media blasting which means the block would then have to be bored, honed, and god knows what else. So to me, that's just dumb. I'm waiting to here back from another place to see what they can do. I can simply put the oil pan back on to cover the bottom and I admit it could be challenging to cover everything else. So I'm considering doing electrolysis, I've done it before on some small things, and Alex I know you did it to your block, how well did it work? Are there any risks involved? I'd also be interested if you came across any info that suggested an ideal voltage, and amperage, and amount of time to do it for.

Thanks.
Even with the electrolysis it was still a lot of work with wire wheels, a screw driver and hammer to get the block ready for paint. I took most of the rust off before I did electrolysis and then I went back with the wire wheels to get it ready for paint. The electrolysis just helped loosen up/remove a lot of the rust in the pit and holes that was hard to get. Below you can see pictures of how it looked before anything, right before electrolysis, after electrolysis and a touch of a wire wheel and right before paint. Personal I haven't had much luck with rust converters, but after getting it as clean as you get hitting it with a rust converter isn't a bad idea. Converted or not paint will flake right off on big chucks of rust.

I don't think there are may risks to the electrolysis process. It is pretty simple and hard to screw up. To protect internals I uses a combo of tape and a lot of engine oil. That worked well and I didn't get any pitting or flash rust inside the block.

A car battery and battery charger give the prefect amps and voltage for electrolysis. I set my charger to 10 amps and let it go. I don't remember how long I let each side go. I know it was at lest one day a side, maybe three days a side . It is a big hunk of metal so you are not going to hurt it. I used some rebar welded it to a grid pattern with one sticking up in the corner to hook the battery up to as my sacrificial metal. You want some something with enough surface area to get one side of the block evenly. Electrolysis works best with line of sight so that is important. Also don't forget to dump some washing soda into the water to help things along.

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//1992 Mazda Miata - cat delete, power windows, oil filter relocation


We got about ten minutes before this entire county is up in flames. If you want to live, youd better step on the gas! Oh wait is this a Tesla? Sh!t! Well, step on the prissy pedal, we're going to die! Cartman
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Old 06-16-2020, 06:01 PM
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Originally Posted by southpark11235 View Post
Even with the electrolysis it was still a lot of work with wire wheels, a screw driver and hammer to get the block ready for paint. I took most of the rust off before I did electrolysis and then I went back with the wire wheels to get it ready for paint. The electrolysis just helped loosen up/remove a lot of the rust in the pit and holes that was hard to get. Below you can see pictures of how it looked before anything, right before electrolysis, after electrolysis and a touch of a wire wheel and right before paint. Personal I haven't had much luck with rust converters, but after getting it as clean as you get hitting it with a rust converter isn't a bad idea. Converted or not paint will flake right off on big chucks of rust.

I don't think there are may risks to the electrolysis process. It is pretty simple and hard to screw up. To protect internals I uses a combo of tape and a lot of engine oil. That worked well and I didn't get any pitting or flash rust inside the block.

A car battery and battery charger give the prefect amps and voltage for electrolysis. I set my charger to 10 amps and let it go. I don't remember how long I let each side go. I know it was at lest one day a side, maybe three days a side . It is a big hunk of metal so you are not going to hurt it. I used some rebar welded it to a grid pattern with one sticking up in the corner to hook the battery up to as my sacrificial metal. You want some something with enough surface area to get one side of the block evenly. Electrolysis works best with line of sight so that is important. Also don't forget to dump some washing soda into the water to help things along.

Thanks for the reply Alex, as I said earlier I have done this before so I know a bit about it. You said you used 10 amps, other people have used 2 amps, etc, there seems to be no consensus and maybe it truly doesn't matter. However I've recently been advised that this isn't the greatest idea for engine blocks as there really isn't any discrimination in terms of material removed in the process, which risks uneven material being removed from even the cylinders. So I think I'm going to pass on this now and look for other options to clean it. Ultrasonic sounds like a good method however I don't know if anyone near me has one. More research is needed.
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Old 06-16-2020, 08:07 PM
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Thanks for the reply Alex, as I said earlier I have done this before so I know a bit about it. You said you used 10 amps, other people have used 2 amps, etc, there seems to be no consensus and maybe it truly doesn't matter. However I've recently been advised that this isn't the greatest idea for engine blocks as there really isn't any discrimination in terms of material removed in the process, which risks uneven material being removed from even the cylinders. So I think I'm going to pass on this now and look for other options to clean it. Ultrasonic sounds like a good method however I don't know if anyone near me has one. More research is needed.
That's is why I used oil inside the engine. It protects everything. Also don't forget electrolysis works on line of sight so most of the things you want to protect are not getting much electrolysis action it the first place. Also I looked at the dates on the photos and it looks like I did one day a side. For fun I went back and edited together the time lapse of the whole rust removal process. I am missing at lest half of the first wire wheeling, so imagine take taking two times as long.

I have never heard of an ultrasonic cleaner being used to remove a lot of rust. I normally see them cleaning small electronics. I have no idea where you would find one big enough for a engine block. If you are really paranoid I would say a wire wheel followed by Ken's rust converter would work with out touching the inside of the block.

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Old 06-16-2020, 08:42 PM
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That is a fun video! Ya apparently they do make ultrasonic cleaners that big, figuring out who has them though is the problem, and from what I've seen they are pretty effective at removing rust with lower frequencies. So correct me if I'm wrong but you're saying coating the inside of the engine with motor oil (lighter than water) totally protects it even when it is soaking in a mixture of water, washing soda (a cleaning aid for removing grease and dirt and even advertised to cut through oil and grease spills) and electricity?
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Old 06-17-2020, 10:35 AM
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That is a fun video! Ya apparently they do make ultrasonic cleaners that big, figuring out who has them though is the problem, and from what I've seen they are pretty effective at removing rust with lower frequencies. So correct me if I'm wrong but you're saying coating the inside of the engine with motor oil (lighter than water) totally protects it even when it is soaking in a mixture of water, washing soda (a cleaning aid for removing grease and dirt and even advertised to cut through oil and grease spills) and electricity?
If you do fine an ultrasonic cleaner big enough to put your block in be sure to post photos/video with your block in it here. That would be cool to see.

Most of the time I wish oil and grease was as easy to get off things as dunking them in water with some washing soda. The oil forums a protective layer on top of the metal water can't get through. No contact with water = no electrolysis. That is why you have to get oil and grease off parts before an type of electrolysis process. I did it and everything came out fine with no rust inside. As I was putting everything back together I checked all the tolerances and everything came back in spec. We are talking in thousandths of an inch here not microns.
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