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  #1  
Old 04-06-2020, 11:57 PM
Muzzman Muzzman is offline
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Active Head Light Failuire

Hi all,

I have a 2005 e63 630i, when i start the car in the idrive screen i get the following errors

When i have the light dial turned to the left with the headlight with an A symbol:

- Active steering faulty!
- Cornering lights failure!

When i turn the dial all the way to the right for main beam i get:

- Dipped beam right failure!

When i plug in INPA i get

LM: 9CBC: which i understand from googling is "Communication with SMC, left, disrupted"
LM: 9CBD: "Communication with SMC, right, disrupted"

Does this sound like its likely to be the Active Headlight module which i understand in right hand drive cars is located behind the glove compartment (not in the glove compartment) or is it likely to the the Active Headlight Control Units of which i belive there is one under each headlamp and i need to remove the front bumper and lights to get to, or could it be something entirely different?

For the Light Module it would be 61359203082 as i do not have heads up display:
https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/sho...diagId=61_1717

I belive the correct Control Unit for Headlight is the following of which i'd need two:
https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/par...&q=63126939069


It seem strange that both sides have gone at once!

Thanks for any help you can offer!

Last edited by Muzzman; 04-07-2020 at 12:09 AM.
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  #2  
Old 04-07-2020, 03:42 AM
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Hsurf Hsurf is offline
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Have you had any moisture in the offside headlight at all?
Sart simple and check your voltages first at the jump terminals, check with both the engine off but lights on and then with the engine on.
You can drop the bumper and then swap the headlights from side to side, you'll need to connect the headlight upside down but this will tell you whether the problem is with the headlight or the wiring/control module depending on whether the fault swaps sides or not.
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  #3  
Old 04-07-2020, 05:46 AM
Muzzman Muzzman is offline
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Originally Posted by Hsurf View Post
Have you had any moisture in the offside headlight at all?
Sart simple and check your voltages first at the jump terminals, check with both the engine off but lights on and then with the engine on.
You can drop the bumper and then swap the headlights from side to side, you'll need to connect the headlight upside down but this will tell you whether the problem is with the headlight or the wiring/control module depending on whether the fault swaps sides or not.
Please bear with me, i'm afraid it's going to be like talking to a child.

I just tried to take the voltages using my AGM battery charger which was unplugged from any source of power

Engine off = 12.7V
Engine off with lights on = 12.7v
Engine on with lights on = The charger shut itself down and wouldn't take a reading, i will try and borrow a multimeter.

Just to add a couple of bits. My car is being an absolute nightmare elecrically, maybe i need to replace the battery but at 500 i want to be sure i really do.

Active Steering Failure - I am going to clean the active steering sensor
Lights - as above
Tyre pressure - Warning about tyre pressure when they're all 32 psi
Window - Just hit the electric switch to close the wondow and a picture of the window and an exclamation mark came up, god know what this is.

Non electrical:

Ignition coil - 2nd one gone in about 150 miles, running on 5 cylinders.
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Old 04-07-2020, 07:42 AM
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645/333 645/333 is offline
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It appears you may have electrical issues, possibly the battery, but as you have the 630 it is different to the 645/650. IT could be the IVM module easy to replace and give random issues electrically,
I would check also the power steering fluid level, easy to do and check if it low, it does not take much?? if that is a one of the sources top it up and do a steering reset which basically means have the engine running and turn steering wheel hard full lock left to right 4-5 times.
As mentioned have you had any water ingress, just give a good look over any condensation?
You will definitely need a multi meter not that expensive, another good tool and cheap is a mechanics stethoscope !!!
You may need as HSurf mentioned trial and error to isolate.
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Old 04-07-2020, 08:48 AM
Muzzman Muzzman is offline
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Originally Posted by 645/333 View Post
It appears you may have electrical issues, possibly the battery, but as you have the 630 it is different to the 645/650. IT could be the IVM module easy to replace and give random issues electrically,
I would check also the power steering fluid level, easy to do and check if it low, it does not take much?? if that is a one of the sources top it up and do a steering reset which basically means have the engine running and turn steering wheel hard full lock left to right 4-5 times.
As mentioned have you had any water ingress, just give a good look over any condensation?
You will definitely need a multi meter not that expensive, another good tool and cheap is a mechanics stethoscope !!!
You may need as HSurf mentioned trial and error to isolate.
Thanks everyone for the replys!

The IVM doesn't seem that difficult to get to, should it be pretty apparent if there has been damage or would i have to take it apart?

In reply to the power steering fluid level, that apears to be okay, however one thing i have noticed is that the cap is really gunky, but it looks like old gunk. I've atached a picture. shall i buy a new cap, could it be a pressure thing?

In regards to the condensation, that does appear to be a problem, when i bought the car, i asked about this and the guy just said it was because he had just run it through the car wash and i didn't push the matter.

I will buy a multimeter now and a mechanics stethascope, would that be for listening to my cylinders?.

I really do appeciate all the tips.
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  #6  
Old 04-07-2020, 08:50 AM
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Hsurf Hsurf is offline
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By the sounds of it your voltages with the engine off sounds good but you'll still want to check it with the engine running, it also sounds as though your not used to dealing with this type of thing so I'll try to keep it as easy as possible.
With any electrical issue on these cars you first need to know you have a good base to work with so always start with checking the battery and alternator and if there's any doubt give the battery a charge over night and recheck the voltages in the morning.
You'll find a multimeter is very useful with these cars but again, to keep it simple buy one that auto ranges for you as it will have less settings for you to work out/worry about lol.

Example of an auto ranging multimeter.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/MT87-LCD-...IAAOSwY~laL3rk

Example of a conventional multimeter
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/LCD-Digit...TTLuUy5JOlgByg

I'm not saying buy one of these, they're just examples I pulled, you'll notice the auto ranger has a lot less settings and also doesn't have to be a clamp style meter.

Although initially the battery is sounding good so far if it's more than four years old you may want to think about changing it anyway, you don't have to spend BMW's 500, but you will want to match the specs of your existing battery (which will be printed on it) your only problem will be registering it to the car which can be done by a dealer (although they won't like it) or an independent BMW specialist, you can also do it yourself in which case have a read of HerbP's post here for your options.

https://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sh....php?t=1158385

As a general rule (and it is a generalisation) the 630's don't tend to suffer quite as many mechanical or electrical faults as the V8's but 645/333 gives some solid advice with the IVM module and the fluid check, our cars are at the age where a module change is a wise move as it can cause all sorts of electrical issues and they are a very common failure point.

If you've not removed the bumper before take a look here, your looking for "650i headlight fix, bumper removal".

https://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sh....php?t=1155649

Once the headlights are out you can swap them, plug them back in and run the codes again to see if the problem swaps sides.

For the window problem try this first

https://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sh...d.php?t=630504

With the tyre pressure warning you can reset that in the idrive and see if it clears, if it doesn't it could be a faulty sensor on the hub but I suspect it could be a symptom of another underlying electrical issue .

If you change the coil again put in a Delphi coil as this is the make BMW would fit.
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Last edited by Hsurf; 04-07-2020 at 08:56 AM.
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Old 04-07-2020, 09:11 AM
Muzzman Muzzman is offline
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Thanks loads for the reply and yes you are right i am new to all this and not that confident but you have to learn somewhere.

In regards to the battery, i bought an AGM charger and charged it for a couple of days. I then checked the settings to make sure that it was 110Ah which it was, i then registed it again to be sure it had been done correctly.

It unfortunately made no odds.

I shall however definitely order the auto ranging multimeter, recharge and retest, i'll then post the pictures here.

I shall order the Delphi coil now and change it.

I have attached the full INPA error log to see if that would give you guys any further clues.

I've never had a car with so many issues. It's only done 64,000 but it is 15 years old.

The car was owned by a rich bloke in South Kensington, by the amount of mould in the seals i think it sat around for months on end which i understand is not the best thing for these cars, they actually like being used!
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Old 04-07-2020, 09:26 AM
Muzzman Muzzman is offline
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Old 04-07-2020, 09:26 AM
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Hsurf Hsurf is offline
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Use this to find the correct part numbers for your car

https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/select

As mentioned, you might find many of these electrical problems are related to just one or two actual faults as so many systems are tied into one another on these cars.
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Old 04-07-2020, 09:34 AM
Muzzman Muzzman is offline
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Originally Posted by Hsurf View Post
Use this to find the correct part numbers for your car

https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/select

As mentioned, you might find many of these electrical problems are related to just one or two actual faults as so many systems are tied into one another on these cars.
Thanks, i think this will be a massive learning process but hopefully worthwhile. I'll never be able to buy another model car after this as it will be wasted knowledge .

I'll try to minimise daft questions.

I came across the realoem site earlier, really handy and even for me not to hard to use, it's where i found these....

For the Light Module it would be 61359203082 as i do not have heads up display:
https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/sho...diagId=61_1717

I belive the correct Control Unit for Headlight is the following of which i'd need two:
https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/par...&q=63126939069
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Old 04-07-2020, 09:50 AM
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Hsurf Hsurf is offline
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Daft questions aren't a problem, as you say everyone has to learn somewhere, there are mistakes that can be made with these so if your not sure just ask and we'll do our best to point you in the right direction.

I'd hold off on buying either of those parts just yet until some more investigating has been done, there's a big difference between spending out on preventative maintenance parts such as the IVM and needlessly throwing parts/money at the car, trouble is, you won't know what those parts are until you get some more experience with the car.
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Old 04-07-2020, 09:59 AM
Muzzman Muzzman is offline
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Originally Posted by Hsurf View Post
Daft questions aren't a problem, as you say everyone has to learn somewhere, there are mistakes that can be made with these so if your not sure just ask and we'll do our best to point you in the right direction.

I'd hold off on buying either of those parts just yet until some more investigating has been done, there's a big difference between spending out on preventative maintenance parts such as the IVM and needlessly throwing parts/money at the car, trouble is, you won't know what those parts are until you get some more experience with the car.
I don't really use the car too much so no rush, prefer to take my time and learn. Even though the car isn't used much i do however keep it on charge most of the time after reading some of your earlier advice to people.

My main concern is failing the MoT in October.

I just bought these

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
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Old 04-07-2020, 02:43 PM
Muzzman Muzzman is offline
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I have just been outside to plug the battery charger in. I have no condensation on the passenger side headlight but alot on the drivers side
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Old 04-07-2020, 04:24 PM
HerbP HerbP is offline
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I really think that the battery is bad. 4 errors in the DME, which is not normal. Checking the voltage on the battery should be done 24 hours after it is charged, to see if the battery will lose some of its voltage. After 24 hours, turn the ignition on, engine off, headlights on, & any other acc. in the car. If the voltage dips at this point below 12 volts, the battery is bad after it has been charged that much.

Some of the 2005's did not have the LM relay in the glove compartment fuse box. If you have one there, that would be the 1st place to start. After that has been verified, & it is good, remove the front bumper cover. Remove the headlights, then drive them out good. You can take a hairdryer or any type of blower & remove the condensation. If there was not a relay in the glove box, you will have 2 modules on the headlight. The ones on the side of the light handle the side to side movement. The module on the bottom is for the vertical movement. The flow of the power from the LM module goes to the drivers side headlight, then to the passengers side. If the drivers side light has failed, the passenger side will not work either. After the headlights have been removed, you can turn them upside down, & plug them in the opposite side of the car. If the headlight then works, you can eliminate that light.

Since you have INPA, maybe you have DIS. DIS will allow you to troubleshoot the modules on the light, to see what is working, & what is not. If you do not have DIS, you will need to find a copy of ISTA+ from somewhere. Once you have that installed & running, you can then test the lights thru ISTA. I have been there & done this, & without a lot of help from Gary & Al, & a local BMW tech to narrow down my problems. The headlights are not cheap, & the modules are not cheap either. If you could source some used modules from a junk yard, it will save you a lot of money.

Lets verify the LM module in the glove box, & eliminate the battery by letting it sit, then putting a load on it. I doubt that your coil is bad either, & the coil is probably voltage related also. The Active steering is probably voltage related also.
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Old 04-07-2020, 11:21 PM
Muzzman Muzzman is offline
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Thanks Herb.

My multimeter arrives on Sunday so on Saturday morning i will unplug the AGM battery charger, on Sunday i will run the tests that you and Hsurf recommend.

As you may have seen on my other thread, my glove compartment won't open, i press in the button and there is no resitance and it doesn't open (my 5 year old son seems to be addicited to opening and closing it so he's probably done something). That's todays job so i can actually get to the fuse and check it.

In regards to the coil, i think you're right, i'm 99% sure that it was the same coil (5) that a mechanic changed 100 miles ago and that definitely doesn't make sense. I ordered one last night anyway.

I'll try ISTA + again, i haven't had much luck with it so far.

Thanks for your help, i really appreciate this, gives me something to do at home while in lockdown as well :-)



QUOTE=HerbP;13299043]I really think that the battery is bad. 4 errors in the DME, which is not normal. Checking the voltage on the battery should be done 24 hours after it is charged, to see if the battery will lose some of its voltage. After 24 hours, turn the ignition on, engine off, headlights on, & any other acc. in the car. If the voltage dips at this point below 12 volts, the battery is bad after it has been charged that much.

Some of the 2005's did not have the LM relay in the glove compartment fuse box. If you have one there, that would be the 1st place to start. After that has been verified, & it is good, remove the front bumper cover. Remove the headlights, then drive them out good. You can take a hairdryer or any type of blower & remove the condensation. If there was not a relay in the glove box, you will have 2 modules on the headlight. The ones on the side of the light handle the side to side movement. The module on the bottom is for the vertical movement. The flow of the power from the LM module goes to the drivers side headlight, then to the passengers side. If the drivers side light has failed, the passenger side will not work either. After the headlights have been removed, you can turn them upside down, & plug them in the opposite side of the car. If the headlight then works, you can eliminate that light.

Since you have INPA, maybe you have DIS. DIS will allow you to troubleshoot the modules on the light, to see what is working, & what is not. If you do not have DIS, you will need to find a copy of ISTA+ from somewhere. Once you have that installed & running, you can then test the lights thru ISTA. I have been there & done this, & without a lot of help from Gary & Al, & a local BMW tech to narrow down my problems. The headlights are not cheap, & the modules are not cheap either. If you could source some used modules from a junk yard, it will save you a lot of money.

Lets verify the LM module in the glove box, & eliminate the battery by letting it sit, then putting a load on it. I doubt that your coil is bad either, & the coil is probably voltage related also. The Active steering is probably voltage related also.[/QUOTE]

Last edited by Muzzman; 04-07-2020 at 11:42 PM.
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Old 04-07-2020, 11:40 PM
Muzzman Muzzman is offline
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I'll have another crack at downloading ISTA+

If not i may resort to purchasing this:

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/FULL-2021...AAAOSwXTVcK6gc
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Old 04-08-2020, 02:12 AM
Muzzman Muzzman is offline
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Sooo, i decided to call the guy that sold me the car back in October just because i had an inkling that he told me that he changed the battery. He's one of these guys that has a website and flips cars as opposed to a full blown dealer. He confirmed he changed the Alternator and Battery before he sold the car to me.

He did also register the battery.

I ran him through the issues that i'm having and he agreed it sounded voltage related. He says he had similar issues on a 650i Conv he sold a few years back and it turned out to be rain sensor, replaced that and it was all back to normal.
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Old 04-08-2020, 06:57 AM
HerbP HerbP is offline
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Your problem is not a rain sensor problem.
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Old 04-10-2020, 02:43 AM
Muzzman Muzzman is offline
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I have finally managed to install ISTA-D

Last edited by Muzzman; 04-10-2020 at 02:48 AM.
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Old 04-12-2020, 11:48 AM
Muzzman Muzzman is offline
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Error logs from ISTA attached.

Any guidance on Active Steering and Active Lighting appreciated.

I have also had my multimeter delivered which i will use tomorrow
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Old 04-12-2020, 05:38 PM
HerbP HerbP is offline
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Go ahead & delete all of the faults. Do this with the engine running, to eliminate a power supply issue. Since you have all of the current faults noted, you will know if they pop up again. The LM module faults will still be listed, but that is to be expected. Click on the AL module, then enter the ECU functions at the bottom of the control tree page. Once in the module, try & run the ECU test again. After that go to the last tab on the top of the module, then delete faults. Click on delete fault, then hit the button at the bottom that says read state. That will delete the fault in the module, & lets see if it stays gone.

I noticed that the BSD fault is listed, has the alternator been removed recently. This usually means that the green wire coming off the alternator that tells the DME the output, is not connected. This will need to be verified as it will cause electrical problems.

Delete all possible faults, then lets see what is left?
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Old 04-12-2020, 07:46 PM
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Hsurf Hsurf is offline
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Sorry my appearance is a little sporadic, it's a very busy time for me at the moment, go with HerbP's advice but I will also say with the BSD line to check the plug for oil deposits due to an oil issue, your N52 won't suffer the bank 2 leaks that reach the alternator like us but if I remember right your oil filter is right next to and above it, only takes one error here and the alternator has been saturated.
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Old 04-12-2020, 11:58 PM
Muzzman Muzzman is offline
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Thanks for your reply, yes indeed, the alternator was changed when the battery was changed just before I bought it, maybe you chaps are onto something here!!!
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Old 04-13-2020, 08:56 AM
HerbP HerbP is offline
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I now have to ask, was it a rebuilt alternator or a new alternator? If rebuilt, it is probably not rebuilt with the proper parts. Aftermarket parts do not like or electrical systems.
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Old 04-13-2020, 10:08 AM
Muzzman Muzzman is offline
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I have just asked the guy. It was a new alternator from Euro Car Parts
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