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E90/E91/E92/E93 (2006 - 2013)
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  #26  
Old 10-27-2017, 11:32 AM
iceweasel69 iceweasel69 is offline
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iDRIVE INSTALLATION

I don't have all the pictures of my iDrive installation. But it's not super difficult if you are coming from a CIC center console.
The CIC center console trim is a touch shorter and a little narrower than the NBT iDrive opening.
As I mentioned before. Using a rounded file or a Dremel filing tool. Go slow and you will make small changes to the opening then recheck fitment and adjust accordingly.

FINAL CIC to NBT opening fitment


The next challenge is how to affix the NBT iDrive unit to a CIC opening
Here is a photo I found online. My only problem was that I don't have any tools to fabricate the piece they made. Which by the way is very clean and robust. (I don't have credits of where I found this image - if anyone knows who took this photo please PM and I will give the credit here)

IDRIVE FRONT VIEW


IDRIVE CENTER VIEW


So, I got creative. I don't remember the brand, but it's called "perforated metal hanger straps". It's very thin roll of flexible aluminum. I bought it at Lowes and it worked gloriously. I think it's like $0.99/roll.

But this is what it looks like. Because they are so many holes, and so malleable, I was able to mold a very tight fitting around the NBT controller for an extremely snug fit. This negated the need for another fixation point to prevent rocking of the controller when used. The unit doesn't move regardless of where pressure or weight is applied from the top. It remains firmly in place.

IDRIVE CENTER VIEW


CLOSEUP FIXATION


That's it. Hope this helps someone during their e90 NBT retrofit.

***I haven't forgotten about coding videos. I will be making some time this weekend to do a video on how to create an FA for an e90.

Thanks.

Last edited by iceweasel69; 11-19-2017 at 06:13 AM.
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  #27  
Old 10-30-2017, 12:56 PM
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lab_rat lab_rat is offline
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Mein Auto: E90 330i ZSP/ZPP/ZMP
Thanks for the updates iceweasel! I'm ordering all the necessary components for the amp this week. I'm looking forward to more info about the fan upgrade on the amp, and learning how to code from your videos.


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  #28  
Old 10-30-2017, 04:53 PM
iceweasel69 iceweasel69 is offline
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As promised. The next video is up - rebuilding FA for e-Series vehicles in E-sys.


Last edited by iceweasel69; 10-30-2017 at 05:02 PM.
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  #29  
Old 10-30-2017, 05:07 PM
2real4u 2real4u is offline
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For time criteria, you cannot just use november/october all the time, as suggested in the video. The easiest way to find the correct one is by factory i-level, but if it unknown, use NCD/CAFD Tool FA-CAFD feature to display the available time criteria for specific chassis type, then pick the latest that is not newer than your production date.
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  #30  
Old 10-30-2017, 05:25 PM
iceweasel69 iceweasel69 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2real4u View Post
For time criteria, you cannot just use november/october all the time, as suggested in the video. The easiest way to find the correct one is by factory i-level, but if it unknown, use NCD/CAFD Tool FA-CAFD feature to display the available time criteria for specific chassis type, then pick the latest that is not newer than your production date.
The factory i-level will be for the chassis - not the headunit correct? Additionally, the information that is read from the CAFD files won't populate for e-series vehicles due to missing ECU's. Is that also correct?

There will be a mismatch between chassis production date (e-series) and the production date of the headunit VIN number, as well as the chassis themselves. So the donor vehicle production date for the headunit must be known or the vin number to populate that field.

It just so happens that in my case with a production date of 1/2015, the 11/2015 date worked because it was prior to the actual production date and not after.

Ultimately, how would one go about getting a production date from a head unit that was donated from a G-series vehicle and installed in a e-series if the factor i-level information will be that of the e-series (the production date of the vehicle the headunit is being installed)?

Thanks for your info. Very helpful.
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  #31  
Old 10-30-2017, 05:41 PM
2real4u 2real4u is offline
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Don't worry about E-series date, if you want to code a baseline for EVO for further FDL editing, look at donor headunit VIN and reconstruct the FA. In case of G series that would be the VIN and FA of EVO donor. For production date of 1/15 you would use 11/14 for time criteria. This becomes important when the options change on newer models - for example, 2018 MY F80s have same HU as 2017, but are coded for touch screen, while 2017 MY F80s use screens without touch control.
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  #32  
Old 10-30-2017, 06:00 PM
iceweasel69 iceweasel69 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2real4u View Post
Don't worry about E-series date, if you want to code a baseline for EVO for further FDL editing, look at donor headunit VIN and reconstruct the FA. In case of G series that would be the VIN and FA of EVO donor. For production date of 1/15 you would use 11/14 for time criteria. This becomes important when the options change on newer models - for example, 2018 MY F80s have same HU as 2017, but are coded for touch screen, while 2017 MY F80s use screens without touch control.
Ahhhhhhhh.....I see. Thanks for the correction. I'll add a comment on the video to reflect this new knowledge.
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  #33  
Old 05-18-2018, 04:21 PM
iceweasel69 iceweasel69 is offline
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Parts Ordered for Retrofit

Moderators, I can't edit my previous posts to add back the photos that are no longer working. So I'm going to repost those portions.

Thanks,

Pics of parts received thus far.

Infotainment cover (North America - notice the AM/FM mode buttons)


Dash Trim


USB Auxiliary Input socket


Fiber optic system jumper (terminating loop)


iDrive touch control unit
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  #34  
Old 05-18-2018, 04:30 PM
iceweasel69 iceweasel69 is offline
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Installation Pictures

Removing climate control panel



Everything up to this point is pretty straight forward. Removing this panel requires very little effort.
Place your finger behind the panel as pictured. Place your other hand in front to catch it (if it should fall). Flick your finger forward and it should pop out (yes it requires that little effort).



This is what it should look like after.



Removing climate control panel wiring clips
This is what the clip looks like installed behind the climate control panel. Depress the clip retainer (red arrow); swing the clip arm over the retainer (green arrow); the entire clip as you swing the arm will eject from the housing (yellow arrows)


This is what the clip looks like removed and in the closed position


This is what the clip looks like removed and in the open position


This is the profile of the same clip. Notice, when reinstalling the clip, it must be in the fully extended position (90 degrees purple lines); in order to line up the bottom portion of the clip to the socket (notice the teal arrow). As you reinsert the clip, the arm will begin to swing into the closed position - don't resist it's movement.
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  #35  
Old 05-18-2018, 04:36 PM
iceweasel69 iceweasel69 is offline
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Installation - Fascial Cover

Removing fascial cover
This requires very little effort. Excessive force will break the cover. If you do not intend to sell the old unit, you can disregard these removal instructions.


Place your trim removal tool as picture above, ensuring that a portion of the lower section of the trim tool is placed behind the fascial cover. Apply minimal force in the direction of the green arrow. In a fulcrum like fashion, the lower portion will pop outward (yellow arrow)


Move the trim removal tool and again place it as pictured. Again apply gentle force in the direction of the green arrow. Again, the fascial cover will pop out in the direction of the yellow arrow.


Place the trim removal tool again as pictured. Apply force in the direction of the green arrow. The fascial cover will pop forward and will permit manipulation to remove the entire cover. Note: If you have the seat heater option, the ribbon runs along the left side and snakes its way to the top

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  #36  
Old 05-18-2018, 04:42 PM
iceweasel69 iceweasel69 is offline
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Installation - Wiring for Microphone

Wiring for the microphone from the center overhead panel
This was actually easier than I thought. During my planning phase, I removed the trim from the A-frame and ran the wires with existing BMW wiring. The first task - how to remove that pesky overhead panel.

Step 1. Don't bother with the panel. Unclip both sun visors and swing them out.
Step 2. Unscrew the sun visor clips (for both sun visors) It should look like what is pictured below


Step 3. This is the difficult part. Which isn't that difficult if you know what you're feeling for. Below is a picture of the panel removed, so you know what you will be feeling for. There are 2 metal springs which when depressed simultaneously (see green circles), the entire panel literally falls out. Since both of your hands will be placed behind the roof covering. It is very pliable, and is flexible enough to fit both of your hands without deforming it's shape.


This is a side view so you can closely see how the clips move, and how much the clips can be "depressed".


There are some who say it can be removed from below, but this way was so easy, I had to include as the most effective and efficient way to get this component removed without risking damage to the aluminum opening (yes where the panel clips, is aluminum and can be damaged if you pry it open with a flat head), also, removing the diffusing light cover (over the center console light) does nothing and only risks breaking clips that secure it in place.

Here's a video of someone attempting the same maneuver. Except there are few things he did that you don't need to do, and there are a few things he didn't do that you should do.
1. Don't remove the diffusing light cover, it's not needed (it's that foggy looking plastic over the light - u only risk breaking a clip)
2. Remove both sun visors from their retaining clips to the side (like your trying to create shade from the sung coming through your window)
3. Unscrew the sun visor retaining clips for both sun visors (this will greatly increase the are through which you can put your hands, and gives you 1000% more room the maneuver
4. I would NOT attempt what he did without removing those sun visor clips.
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  #37  
Old 05-22-2018, 04:12 PM
iceweasel69 iceweasel69 is offline
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UPDATED AMPLIFIER INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS:

All of post #9 is outdated (except 3 parts).
Code:
https://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/showpost.php?p=10192548&postcount=9
You don't need to connect the amplifier to the battery of the car. Which means this negates purchasing any connectors to the battery block, or the power housing of the amp.

Yes! This is true. I repeat, the amplifier does not need to be connected to the battery.

And it's all because of this:



So how is this accomplished??? Well, you will need a few parts. Three to be exact.
1. COVER CAP (PN# 61136905200)
2. HOUSING (PN# 61136901844)
3. CONTACT (PN# 61131393724) ****I recommend buying 4 or 6 of these. You may make a mistake making the jumper loop.

Lets make the jumper loop. Using the CONTACT (PN# 61131393724) and a 2 inch length piece of 18 or 22AWG wire (I recommend 18) create a loop. And place the two pins into pin slot #1 and #2 of the HOUSING (PN# 61136901844). It should look as pictured below.

LOOP - notice the number 1 & 2


HOUSING inserted into the COVER CAP


The fiber optic cable is the inserted into the COVER CAP and the entire COVER CAP is then plugged into the amplifier. Connect the speaker housing cable, and you're done. No need for any other cables. Simple!
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  #38  
Old 05-22-2018, 04:21 PM
iceweasel69 iceweasel69 is offline
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Mein Auto: 2006 e90 330i
iDrive Installation

I don't have all the pictures of my iDrive installation. But it's not super difficult if you are coming from a CIC center console.
The CIC center console trim is a touch shorter and a little narrower than the NBT iDrive opening.
As I mentioned before. Using a rounded file or a Dremel filing tool. Go slow and you will make small changes to the opening then recheck fitment and adjust accordingly.

FINAL CIC to NBT opening fitment


IDRIVE CENTER VIEW


CLOSEUP FIXATION


That's it. Hope this helps someone during their e90 NBT retrofit.
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  #39  
Old 05-22-2018, 11:29 PM
markcc01 markcc01 is offline
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Mein Auto: 2011 M3, 1989 325iS
Non-Logic7 cars

Has anyone done an NBT EVO upgrade in an E9x WITHOUT Logic7? I just completed it myself and my E92 originally had the Hifi system, so no MOST bus or easy ability to swap out the Hifi amp. I installed one from BavSound just to get better audio - that part works perfectly, as does the original factory Hifi amp, but I have the "echo problems" described above when making calls using Wireless Carplay or Bluetooth. My understanding was that it was a result of the MOST mute not working with the older Logic7 amps, but this is obviously not the case here as of course this isn't even on the MOST loop. Any thoughts or ideas on how I might address? I don't think converting the car to Logic7 just to fix this would be a reasonable thing to do. Any advice? Thanks!
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  #40  
Old 05-23-2018, 03:56 AM
iceweasel69 iceweasel69 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by markcc01 View Post
Has anyone done an NBT EVO upgrade in an E9x WITHOUT Logic7? I just completed it myself and my E92 originally had the Hifi system, so no MOST bus or easy ability to swap out the Hifi amp. I installed one from BavSound just to get better audio - that part works perfectly, as does the original factory Hifi amp, but I have the "echo problems" described above when making calls using Wireless Carplay or Bluetooth. My understanding was that it was a result of the MOST mute not working with the older Logic7 amps, but this is obviously not the case here as of course this isn't even on the MOST loop. Any thoughts or ideas on how I might address? I don't think converting the car to Logic7 just to fix this would be a reasonable thing to do. Any advice? Thanks!


Check out the cartechnology.co.uk link I posted earlier (page 1).

There are a few things you can try:
1)get an amp from an F01 series 2012. The NBT EVO is an Fseries head unit

2) double check the mic coding; some success has been reported with setting REFERENCE_CHANNEL_TEL_MODE to wert_01

3) update the software of your amp

All processes listed above are described by various users at the link I posted previously.

Good luck
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  #41  
Old 06-06-2018, 02:28 AM
Darudis e91 Darudis e91 is offline
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Mein Auto: E91 325d
Hi guys Iíve got NBT retrofited in my e91 Click image for larger version

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ID:	799650 everything works fluent but Iím thinking upgrade to NBT evo part nr 8780776 01 that doesnít have GPS connector so does it have GPS built in or GPS antenna connects trough quad lock? Other thing cid display, EVO display uses different voltage so if I use this power converter https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?m...2F162809957439 will it work with my NBT display? Thanks


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  #42  
Old 06-27-2018, 11:06 PM
dncomputech dncomputech is offline
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Nbt evo

Quote:
Originally Posted by iceweasel69 View Post
The first video is up - How to FDL code with E-Sys on a BMW e90 NBT EVO Head unit


I'll try to get a video up on how to do an FA rebuild for e-series vehicles, then move into coding with NCSEXpert.

From there, I'll head into ISTAD via OBDII, then ICOM, then ISTAP. If my plans change, I'll post them here.

Cheers.
Thanks iceweasel69 is your enthusiastic guide.
I am following you for my F10 2016 car.
1. / I have NBT EVO G30 (part: 8794114) and its Vin.
2. / I bonded it on the bench.
3. / I created FA (Vin NBT EVO) and connected it E-sys + PsdZData 63.3. Quadlock NBT EVO Pinout (Pin 12: -12V, Pin 15: + 12V), OABR to PC (IP: 168.199.254.99), (Without ZGW) and successful connection.
https://drive.google.com/drive/folde...TPzioEaZ5moyP3

4. In E-sys Expert Mode >>> Load FA (Vin NBT EVO) >>> Active FA >>> Read (ECU) I see ECU NBT Evo and it lost connection in a few minutes. Did you do anything wrong that you can fix me?
5. / On the other hand, when connecting E-sys + PsdZData 63.3, see the ECU NBT evo CAFD_00001EF6_006_029_004. But I did not find this CAFD in my PsdZData 63.3. How to get CAFD_00001EF6_006_029_004

My English is translated from google.
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  #43  
Old 06-27-2018, 11:29 PM
dncomputech dncomputech is offline
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Location: Viet Nam
 
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Mein Auto:
Nbt evo

Thanks iceweasel69 is your enthusiastic guide.
I am following you for my F10 2016 car.
1. / I have NBT EVO G30 (part: 8794114) and its Vin.
2. / I bonded it on the bench.
3. / I created FA (Vin NBT EVO) and connected it E-sys + PsdZData 63.3. Quadlock NBT EVO Pinout (Pin 12: -12V, Pin 15: + 12V), OABR to PC (IP: 168.199.254.99), (Without ZGW) and successful connection.
https://drive.google.com/drive/folde...TPzioEaZ5moyP3

4. In E-sys Expert Mode >>> Load FA (Vin NBT EVO) >>> Active FA >>> Read (ECU) I see ECU NBT Evo and it lost connection in a few minutes. Did you do anything wrong that you can fix me?
5. / On the other hand, when connecting E-sys + PsdZData 63.3, see the ECU NBT evo CAFD_00001EF6_006_029_004. But I did not find this CAFD in my PsdZData 63.3. How to get CAFD_00001EF6_006_029_004

My English is translated from google.
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