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X5 E70 (2007 - 2013)
E70 BMW X5 produced between 2007 and 2013. Discuss the E70 X5 with other BMW owners here.

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  #26  
Old 09-16-2019, 10:40 AM
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2010xdrive35d 2010xdrive35d is offline
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Another set of productive items I see! The first one that interests me is the fuel filter as I'm unaware of the last time it was replaced and didn't realize it had a date on the pump either. While that's probably a manufactures date still gives you an idea of when it was installed.

Really like seeing all the progress. Keep it up!
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  #27  
Old 09-23-2019, 06:40 PM
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Replacing vacuum lines turned into bypassing the low pressure EGR cooler and deleting the high pressure EGR cooler.

OEM vac lines had ~80,000 miles on them and were nice and toasty. Even with expanding pliers I wasn't able to get the lines off the nipples without cutting them with a razor. The last vac line I replaced was for the low pressure EGR cooler (located under the LP turbo) and accidentally broke the plastic nipple off. After doing some research I sounded like this wasn't worth repairing since I plan to delete it eventually and the non functional valve should only throw a CEL, not put the X5 into limp.

After learning my EGR delete intake pipe could be installed without limp mode I decided now was a good tie to do that as well. Even while on a stock tune I like having this done to slow carbon build up and have a nice bump in engine efficiency.

The e61 that's for sale gets the garage so the workshop moved to the driveway.



Roasted and toasted!




The best tip I have is to figure out how to remove this rear solenoid, reaching many of the vac lines is awkward but these two are impossible unless you pop the solenoid out.


I didn't see any holes but the lines were not in good shape



Farewell cooler






With the braces out I hit them with some sandpaper and applied some top coat, hopefully they stay looking fresh, I am a bit fan of brushed metals, especially in engine bays.

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- M5 Front End, M5 skirts, M5 Mirrors, M-Tech Rep Rear
- KW V3, RD Sport Sways, UR Strut Braces, Forgestar F14 SDC
- Manual Swap, MFactory SMFW, Spec Stg 3+ Clutch, Shiftteck SSK
- EOS Port Injection Manifold, Fuel-It: Stg 2 LPFP +Ethanol Sensor
- N54B30, JB4, Hexon RR550s, Custom Y-Pipe Inlet, AR DPs, 3" Exhaust, VRSF 7" IC, ER CP, Tial BOV, RB PCV, BMS OCC

E39 540iT:
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- E38 Contour Seats
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  #28  
Old 09-23-2019, 07:24 PM
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2010xdrive35d 2010xdrive35d is offline
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Evan, you never disappoint!

You've given me the confidence to delete the EGR as my next project. First I'm going to service the tranny and see how it does.
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  #29  
Old 09-24-2019, 06:23 PM
cluesblues cluesblues is offline
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Subbed, I want to try and tackle some of this myself before winter hits. Great thread!
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  #30  
Old 09-24-2019, 08:29 PM
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2010xdrive35d 2010xdrive35d is offline
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Scratch that... I'm going after this first. I was under the hood tonight and my lines look like yours. Instead of replacing them, why not just delete.

Two questions...

1. Where did you get your delete kit?
2. Did your CEL come on?
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  #31  
Old 09-24-2019, 09:13 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2010xdrive35d View Post
Scratch that... I'm going after this first. I was under the hood tonight and my lines look like yours. Instead of replacing them, why not just delete.

Two questions...

1. Where did you get your delete kit?
2. Did your CEL come on?
It's important to distinguish the difference between the vac lines and "deleting" as they are not the same thing. You can delete emissions related stuff from the vehicle but you still need to replace the vac lines if they are in need.

1. My EGR valve delete pipe is from Bimmertune
2. Yes, there are some codes and the CEL light but no limp mode and the X5 performs as it should. I had my OEM EGR valve plugged in and tucked to the side in the engine bay. This is a temp solution until I am fully deleted. IMO better engine health > CEL light.
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N54 Powered M5 Wagon:
- M5 Driveshaft, M5 LSD, M5 Axles, M5 Brakes
- M5 Front End, M5 skirts, M5 Mirrors, M-Tech Rep Rear
- KW V3, RD Sport Sways, UR Strut Braces, Forgestar F14 SDC
- Manual Swap, MFactory SMFW, Spec Stg 3+ Clutch, Shiftteck SSK
- EOS Port Injection Manifold, Fuel-It: Stg 2 LPFP +Ethanol Sensor
- N54B30, JB4, Hexon RR550s, Custom Y-Pipe Inlet, AR DPs, 3" Exhaust, VRSF 7" IC, ER CP, Tial BOV, RB PCV, BMS OCC

E39 540iT:
- OEM Style 167, KW V1
- E38 Contour Seats
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  #32  
Old 09-27-2019, 03:51 AM
Rumavil Rumavil is offline
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Hi. Great stuff you´re doing here!
This is nothing, but I noticed you have your rear seat seat belts attached to their latch, whereas you can simply roll them and fix them to the D pillar - They have a place to fit them, instead of having them showing and eventually getting in the way.
Can send you a picture of mine if helps.
Small stuff ;-)

Cheers

Rui
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  #33  
Old 09-27-2019, 05:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rumavil View Post
Hi. Great stuff you´re doing here!
This is nothing, but I noticed you have your rear seat seat belts attached to their latch, whereas you can simply roll them and fix them to the D pillar - They have a place to fit them, instead of having them showing and eventually getting in the way.
Can send you a picture of mine if helps.
Small stuff ;-)

Cheers

Rui
Thanks for the suggestion, I would love to as I am not a fan of the 3rd row, I bought the X5 with t for the rear air suspension. In the US the rear seat belts do not disconnect like in other global markets.

https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/sho...diagId=72_0583
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N54 Powered M5 Wagon:
- M5 Driveshaft, M5 LSD, M5 Axles, M5 Brakes
- M5 Front End, M5 skirts, M5 Mirrors, M-Tech Rep Rear
- KW V3, RD Sport Sways, UR Strut Braces, Forgestar F14 SDC
- Manual Swap, MFactory SMFW, Spec Stg 3+ Clutch, Shiftteck SSK
- EOS Port Injection Manifold, Fuel-It: Stg 2 LPFP +Ethanol Sensor
- N54B30, JB4, Hexon RR550s, Custom Y-Pipe Inlet, AR DPs, 3" Exhaust, VRSF 7" IC, ER CP, Tial BOV, RB PCV, BMS OCC

E39 540iT:
- OEM Style 167, KW V1
- E38 Contour Seats
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  #34  
Old 09-28-2019, 11:34 AM
Flying Ace Flying Ace is offline
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Wow! Great job and great pics!

1. That's a VERY clean OEM hitch install. Still baffles me the full OEM recommendation is to trim the entire center section of the bumper. Can you take a photo of the plugs, how are you able to get the plugs to work with it covered by your bumper? The OEM trim has the plugs exposed.

2. I agree Propel HPR is a great fuel and is good for diesel emissions equipment health. My closest station is 40 minutes away.
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  #35  
Old 10-03-2019, 12:07 PM
NW-99SS NW-99SS is offline
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Subscribed as well - great thread, awesome pictures, and nice work on your M57!
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  #36  
Old 10-03-2019, 12:32 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Flying Ace View Post
Wow! Great job and great pics!

1. That's a VERY clean OEM hitch install. Still baffles me the full OEM recommendation is to trim the entire center section of the bumper. Can you take a photo of the plugs, how are you able to get the plugs to work with it covered by your bumper? The OEM trim has the plugs exposed.
I would take another look at the pics I posted previously, I show how I trimmed the diffuser, how the plug is visible, and even a pic with the 4-pin connector installed. I don't know what else I could show.
Quote:
Originally Posted by NW-99SS View Post
Subscribed as well - great thread, awesome pictures, and nice work on your M57!
Thank you!
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N54 Powered M5 Wagon:
- M5 Driveshaft, M5 LSD, M5 Axles, M5 Brakes
- M5 Front End, M5 skirts, M5 Mirrors, M-Tech Rep Rear
- KW V3, RD Sport Sways, UR Strut Braces, Forgestar F14 SDC
- Manual Swap, MFactory SMFW, Spec Stg 3+ Clutch, Shiftteck SSK
- EOS Port Injection Manifold, Fuel-It: Stg 2 LPFP +Ethanol Sensor
- N54B30, JB4, Hexon RR550s, Custom Y-Pipe Inlet, AR DPs, 3" Exhaust, VRSF 7" IC, ER CP, Tial BOV, RB PCV, BMS OCC

E39 540iT:
- OEM Style 167, KW V1
- E38 Contour Seats
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  #37  
Old 10-03-2019, 01:26 PM
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First things first, welcome the new garage mate: Oliver! Soon to be 3 month old Blue Merle Australian Shepard.




Back to the basics: fresh oil



Next project was to run the wiring for my paddles, the electrical pins are in the mail so I figured it would be good to get the wiring done. I started by removing the wheel so confirm the M-sport paddles are configured like other M-sport paddles with resistors ...and they are. M-sport owners on other chassis remove the resistors to create a simple switch, others add additional resistors but in the spirit of KISS, I will explore a coding option I read about which will allow communication, if now then I have the other more permanent options to explore.




After some poking around I decided to run the wiring in this manner from the SZL; through the fire wall just above the dead pedal, from just under the brake booster out another grommet to the driver wheel well, up and over the transmission, and back to the electrical connector. There might have been a more direct way but this was fairly easy to access and the wiring is away from all the hot items on the passenger side.


Grommet above the dead pedal


View of the grommet below the brake booster


Thread the needle


In this pic you can see the wire ran behond the wheel liner. Wiring is tucked away as I wait for the pins to arrive.


Next project was aligning the rear tailgate which was pulled over to the passenger side. Using NewTIS I found the instructions for aligning the gate and played around with the loosing the bolts which connect the hinge to the body and the gate, it was a pain and didn't really work. To access these bolts you had to remove the spoiler.


Here is before



It isn't perfect but the most beneficial adjustment came from correcting the latch catch. If you lowered the tailgate down manually to where it was almost shut you could see it was pretty straight but then got all crooked when latched, DOH! I should have paid closer attention, removing the spoiler and playing with the main hinge wasn't necessary SMH. I also noticed the passenger side "bottom-out pad"? was about 5 millimeters higher so I brought that down to level. Maybe it was raised earlier to eliminate tailgate rattle? We shall see.


Here is after, not perfect but much better



Added some fresh felt tape to the latch catch.


Last project was fabbing up a PCV delete plate which will eventually house a bulkhead fitting and allow me to run an oil catch can. Just as others have done I used 1/3" aluminum hacked it up with an angle grinder and a Dremel. Considering my lack of metal fabrication experience and relatively primitive tools I am happy with the outcome. I bought a small vented Mishimoto "style" OCC but I know the Provent is the go-to for the M57 with a few internal mods. TBH the Provent is huge and looks like hell so I will see if I can get satisfactory results for another style OCC, if not then I will revert to the Provent and it's unsightly "do they really need to be this large of a diameter" hoses.







Good enough!


Keep it clean!
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N54 Powered M5 Wagon:
- M5 Driveshaft, M5 LSD, M5 Axles, M5 Brakes
- M5 Front End, M5 skirts, M5 Mirrors, M-Tech Rep Rear
- KW V3, RD Sport Sways, UR Strut Braces, Forgestar F14 SDC
- Manual Swap, MFactory SMFW, Spec Stg 3+ Clutch, Shiftteck SSK
- EOS Port Injection Manifold, Fuel-It: Stg 2 LPFP +Ethanol Sensor
- N54B30, JB4, Hexon RR550s, Custom Y-Pipe Inlet, AR DPs, 3" Exhaust, VRSF 7" IC, ER CP, Tial BOV, RB PCV, BMS OCC

E39 540iT:
- OEM Style 167, KW V1
- E38 Contour Seats
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  #38  
Old 10-03-2019, 01:47 PM
NW-99SS NW-99SS is offline
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Congrats on the new pup - beautiful!

Again nice work - all these pictures and descriptions are going to really come in handy for me. appreciate the time taken to post!
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  #39  
Old 10-04-2019, 02:09 AM
Rumavil Rumavil is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ucsbwsr View Post
Thanks for the suggestion, I would love to as I am not a fan of the 3rd row, I bought the X5 with t for the rear air suspension. In the US the rear seat belts do not disconnect like in other global markets.

https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/sho...diagId=72_0583
So I have the pics, but can´t seem to understand how to post them. This is EU Model, so maybe the reason... Still you can probably get the parts and retrofit, I assume.

Cheers,
Rui
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  #40  
Old 10-04-2019, 09:24 AM
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sunny_j sunny_j is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rumavil View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by ucsbwsr View Post
Thanks for the suggestion, I would love to as I am not a fan of the 3rd row, I bought the X5 with t for the rear air suspension. In the US the rear seat belts do not disconnect like in other global markets.

https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/sho...diagId=72_0583
So I have the pics, but can´t seem to understand how to post them. This is EU Model, so maybe the reason... Still you can probably get the parts and retrofit, I assume.

Cheers,
Rui
I'd like to see a pic. Try using Imgur or something similar to upload to
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  #41  
Old 10-04-2019, 10:53 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sunny_j View Post
I'd like to see a pic. Try using Imgur or something similar to upload to
There is a pic in this link, between this and the RealOEM link I posted above it should cover everything related to 3rd row belt storage.
https://xoutpost.com/bmw-sav-forums/...-how-stow.html
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N54 Powered M5 Wagon:
- M5 Driveshaft, M5 LSD, M5 Axles, M5 Brakes
- M5 Front End, M5 skirts, M5 Mirrors, M-Tech Rep Rear
- KW V3, RD Sport Sways, UR Strut Braces, Forgestar F14 SDC
- Manual Swap, MFactory SMFW, Spec Stg 3+ Clutch, Shiftteck SSK
- EOS Port Injection Manifold, Fuel-It: Stg 2 LPFP +Ethanol Sensor
- N54B30, JB4, Hexon RR550s, Custom Y-Pipe Inlet, AR DPs, 3" Exhaust, VRSF 7" IC, ER CP, Tial BOV, RB PCV, BMS OCC

E39 540iT:
- OEM Style 167, KW V1
- E38 Contour Seats
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  #42  
Old 10-04-2019, 11:40 AM
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sunny_j sunny_j is offline
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Thanks Even.
I'm working on removing the 3rd row from my x5. bought the replacement parts from the wreck for $100

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  #43  
Old 10-10-2019, 05:10 AM
Rumavil Rumavil is offline
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The pics I mentioned:

https://i.imgur.com/Gt49ccM.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/8EUmqKk.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/l76f64x.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/IbHTnLi.jpg

But probably you will simply remove the rear belts from D Pillar?

Cheers

Rui

Last edited by Rumavil; 10-10-2019 at 05:16 AM.
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  #44  
Old 10-10-2019, 09:23 AM
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2010xdrive35d 2010xdrive35d is offline
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Love the updates and LOVE the blue merle. Hey Oliver! We also have one. Female named Zoey. She's 2 years old. First dog and couldn't be happier about owning an Aussie.
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  #45  
Old 10-11-2019, 06:08 PM
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I finished wiring the paddles and got everything operational. I will be creating a guide explaining the process for E70s, there was info online but it wasn't definitive so I am hoping the consolidation of the necessary steps plus some pointers will be helpful for others. Keep an eye out for a link soon.

In addition to the paddle shift project the maintenance train continued to charge forward with the following:

- Fluidampr harmonic balancer + upgraded alternator pulley
- Water Pump + Thermostat
- New Belts



Removing AC stretch belt


Alternator pulley: Left-Old Right-New


Left: OEM balancer
Right: Fluidampr


OEM HB looked to be in good shape. There was no record of it being replaced in 85k so it's nice to know the Fluidampr is in there now, especially before tuning.


Noted some minor wheeping around the crank hub, not an urgent matter but it will be corrected at some point.


Old vs New




Cleaned, inspected, and greased up.


Refilled cooling system and got up to operating temp.
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N54 Powered M5 Wagon:
- M5 Driveshaft, M5 LSD, M5 Axles, M5 Brakes
- M5 Front End, M5 skirts, M5 Mirrors, M-Tech Rep Rear
- KW V3, RD Sport Sways, UR Strut Braces, Forgestar F14 SDC
- Manual Swap, MFactory SMFW, Spec Stg 3+ Clutch, Shiftteck SSK
- EOS Port Injection Manifold, Fuel-It: Stg 2 LPFP +Ethanol Sensor
- N54B30, JB4, Hexon RR550s, Custom Y-Pipe Inlet, AR DPs, 3" Exhaust, VRSF 7" IC, ER CP, Tial BOV, RB PCV, BMS OCC

E39 540iT:
- OEM Style 167, KW V1
- E38 Contour Seats
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  #46  
Old 10-16-2019, 12:06 AM
scrllock scrllock is offline
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Great thread, lots of interesting stuff. Don't own an E70 (yet?) but I do own a couple aussies. I have a nice setup in my E90, but I think a kennel in the back of an SUV is/was a much safer way of moving them around. Any idea on how big of a crate you can fit in the back? I was using a 31x22x24 and I'm curious what the clearance is like back there.

Thanks, enjoy the new puppy!
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  #47  
Old 10-16-2019, 07:19 AM
NW-99SS NW-99SS is offline
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Still enjoying this thread as I plan future maintenance on our E70.

Got a few items looked after this last weekend:

Installed factory splash guards.
Swapped to winter wheel & tire setup.
Installed black kidney grills.
Replaced Lift Gate button in the center console - previous owner must have used her nails & scratched all the paint off.
Installed the BMW puddle lights under all the doors - some people think they are tacky, I like them.
Completed an oil change, topped off the DEF.
Installed an oil pan heater - so my wife can plug it in at work on the cold days (we get -40).
Cleaned the undertrays and coated the front subframe with spray wax in prep for winter.
New cabin air filters, new engine air filter.

Going to start ordering parts the OP has shown in this thread. Can you elaborate on the crank pulley? Is that a known failure item? Ours is at 74,xxx miles - so want to try and stay ahead of the maintenance.
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Last edited by NW-99SS; 10-16-2019 at 07:27 AM.
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  #48  
Old 10-16-2019, 09:14 AM
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ucsbwsr ucsbwsr is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scrllock View Post
Great thread, lots of interesting stuff. Don't own an E70 (yet?) but I do own a couple aussies. I have a nice setup in my E90, but I think a kennel in the back of an SUV is/was a much safer way of moving them around. Any idea on how big of a crate you can fit in the back? I was using a 31x22x24 and I'm curious what the clearance is like back there.

Thanks, enjoy the new puppy!
I did a quick measurement and mycargo area is roughly 42" wide 28"-32" deep (depending on rear seat recline angle), and the height gets tricky since there is a lot to the ceiling but the angle of the rear glass cuts into that depending on the height of your item. From the floor to the glass is about 20" tall. I don't think you would have any problem fitting your crate in the rear, worst case scenario you might need to make the rear seat more upright but you may not need to.
Quote:
Originally Posted by NW-99SS View Post
Can you elaborate on the crank pulley? Is that a known failure item? Ours is at 74,xxx miles - so want to try and stay ahead of the maintenance.
In general the OEM harmoic balancer has a design the becomes compromised over time. It is metal in the middle where it bolts to the crank, the outside is metal where the belt resides, however those two metal pieces are joined by a rubber donut which becomes brittle, cracks, and eventually fails allowing the serpentine belt and crank hub move independently. The Fluidampr resolves this threat.
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N54 Powered M5 Wagon:
- M5 Driveshaft, M5 LSD, M5 Axles, M5 Brakes
- M5 Front End, M5 skirts, M5 Mirrors, M-Tech Rep Rear
- KW V3, RD Sport Sways, UR Strut Braces, Forgestar F14 SDC
- Manual Swap, MFactory SMFW, Spec Stg 3+ Clutch, Shiftteck SSK
- EOS Port Injection Manifold, Fuel-It: Stg 2 LPFP +Ethanol Sensor
- N54B30, JB4, Hexon RR550s, Custom Y-Pipe Inlet, AR DPs, 3" Exhaust, VRSF 7" IC, ER CP, Tial BOV, RB PCV, BMS OCC

E39 540iT:
- OEM Style 167, KW V1
- E38 Contour Seats
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  #49  
Old 10-16-2019, 10:23 AM
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Paddles in action!


Also, this chirping noise shown below would happen periodically on start up, usually when the engine hasen't been ran for >12 hours. This was resolved when replacing my harmonic balancer, alternator pulley, and water pump. My guess it was caused by the alternator pulley.


I had some odd locking behavior, the driver door stopped unlocking at all and you needed to utilize the "actual" key however the driver door would lock with the FOB. Gas cap also needed a manual release to open. All other doors were unresponsive. Research said it was either a fuse or lock actuator. Thankfully it was a fuse, I replaced the 15A with 20A.



My initial fog light retrofit utilized 3M VHB which is amazing stuff but it didn't offer the structural rigidity needed for this application and with the heat sinks of the projectors completely exposed there was too much space for water and dirt to ingress so I revised the design.

To mount the LED projector bracket to the fog housing I used my ultra tiny drill bit and some steel wire to create 4 anchor points


Next was JB Weld which completely seals the perimeter and also adds rigidity.


Last were rubber housing caps to seal the rear, these work but they are a little excessive in their volume and the flange that grabs onto the housings could be deeper so I will be trying a different design later to optimize the design.


I gave the X5 a wash immediately after installing the revised fogs and so far so good, next wash will be with a power washer




I finally had the opportunity to take some output pics. Some things to note on these photos: The X5 is parked at a slight angle relative to the wall and the ground also has a slight angle which makes the output scale up in size towards the left. I did a quick aim of the projectors inside the fog housings before installing them into the bumper but never did another aiming once in the bumper, as you can see the driver side is aimed a bit higher and should be lower to match the passenger side.

The passenger side is aimed about as low as it can go, the projector assmebly bottoms out on the fog housing limiting the downward angle. I might be able to improve this a little by mounting the LED projector up a little higher in the fog housing when I join the two assemblies but the improvement will be small. The limited downward aim combined with the relatively high location of the fog lights in the X5's bumper these fog lights are more like supplemental driving lights. That being said with the ho-hum performance of the E70's adaptive xenon lights and the impressive output of the small LED fogs, they do a nice job complimenting the headlight's low beam output and help fill out the beam pattern. Photos are with an iphone and exposure is on auto.

LED fogs only


Low beams only


Low + Fog


Fog only


Here is a video cycling through the lights
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  #50  
Old 10-16-2019, 11:32 PM
robinasu robinasu is offline
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Location: CA
 
Join Date: Aug 2011
Posts: 29
Mein Auto: M5
Thanks for all the pro tips!

Quick thought as I saw the CBU cleaning.. maybe flooding the cylinders with diesel and letting it soak might be a good way to loosen up the CBU on intake valves and runners. It's only about 3 to 4L, max. Of course, you'd want to extract the diesel before you start the engine. I have also seen that liquid moly diesel intake cleaner and other products like it.

How long did the purple soak take?
How did the engine feel with the swirl flap delete right after?
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