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Old 02-17-2020, 06:52 PM
k4adams k4adams is offline
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Stuck Trans Fill Plug

So, I went to change filter/fluid on trans today (2010 auto), but the drain plug will not come loose. I have the correct Torx bit that I've used on my 2006, but it is not turning on this ride, and is starting to strip. I went ahead and changed the transfer case fluid and both diffs in thoughts that I could just buy a whole new pan and go about it that way; however, I'm unable to locate the pan. Help please -- Duke - your thoughts
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Old 02-17-2020, 07:41 PM
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Just drop the trans' pan (with a big splash of oil), clean the pan, and replace the filter and then the pan gasket?

But before doing that, make sure you can get the fill-bolt loose.
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Old 02-17-2020, 09:17 PM
k4adams k4adams is offline
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Yeah, I checked the fill plug first -- no prob there, and that was my plan to just drop the whole pan without draining first, even though it will be a ****in mess. But, I'd also like to get this drain plug out -- I've got a new replacement. If there's a way to gorge this one and release, and thus drain, I'd like to hear.
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Old 02-18-2020, 02:28 AM
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Stuck Trans Fill Plug

A little bit of heat will be your friend. As said above, you can easily do the job without the drain plug, albeit more messily. Break lose all the pan bolts except one on one end and 2 on the other. Loosen the one about half way, then loosen the other 2 a little bit. Use a gasket scraper or 3/8" flathead, pop the pan loose on the 1 bolt side, have a drain pan ready. Let it drain. At some point between loosening the two a little and the one bolt a lot, you'll get the 1 completely out. The idea is to let the pan pivot down from the two, spilling as much fluid as you can. Lift it back up to the trans, put a jack under it, remove all bolts and lower it. Then you can work on it on the bench.

Replace the bolt with a 14mm head GM trans drain bolt, with gasket included, from any auto parts store. Cut the unthreaded end off with a hack saw for filter clearance.

In a worst case scenario, you can just order a new pan for $20. Still go with the GM drain bolt. When I did mine the second time, I had to weld a nut to the factory drain bolt to get it out.


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Last edited by dukedkt442; 02-18-2020 at 10:01 AM.
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Old 02-18-2020, 03:17 AM
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We've see it before...
See here: https://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sh...php?p=13196531

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Old 02-18-2020, 03:22 AM
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This is ATF, not that stupid MT thread

You can get a large mixing basin from Lowe’s for $12 that will minimize ATF driveway mess
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Old 02-18-2020, 04:07 AM
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Originally Posted by abscate View Post
This is ATF, not that stupid MT thread



You can get a large mixing basin from Lowe’s for $12 that will minimize ATF driveway mess


That MT bolt thread was gold. Deserves a nomination for best thread of 2019. I wonder how OP is doing he hasn’t blessed us with his knowledge and skill set much.


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Old 02-18-2020, 07:20 AM
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Old 02-18-2020, 08:59 AM
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Full kit, pan included, for $78. Add $2 for a new hex drain plug for a GM from Autozone. Subtract 5% for the online discount.

https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/...c,oil+pan,8546

Of course GM made the 6L45 have a different pan than the cheaper 6L50.

Filters run anywhere from the Wix for $22 (filter and gasket) at Rockauto, up through $136 for the "BMW" filter kit (filter and gasket) at FCP, putting the cost of a pan at $56, so I was a little off on my $20 guess (which was made after buying various pans over the last few years).
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Last edited by dukedkt442; 02-18-2020 at 09:59 AM.
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Old 02-18-2020, 01:08 PM
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Forgot to mention that if using heat on the drain bolt, expect the o ring to melt and be trashed, so then you have no choice but to get it out.


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Old 02-18-2020, 06:25 PM
k4adams k4adams is offline
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I buttoned up all back up for right now, as my other ride, a 2006 X3 is at the body shop because of a deer incident. Once it's back, and warm weather, I'll drop the whole pan to drain. I already had a new fill and drain plug, as it came with the bmw kit. I'll try to get fill plug out once on the work bench. If I ****ed all things up, a new will be ordered. Looking at rockauto, it only shows pans available for 2007 & 2008 LCI's -- I assume this would be the 6L50?? -- Do these pans mount the same? Just in case Thanks
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Old 02-18-2020, 07:52 PM
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It's the 6L45, difference in dimensions mainly....and I guess other stuff. Do not know if the pan of the 6L50 fits the 45.....the drain plug from a Chevy Colorado can be retrofitted like Duke did awhile back. Use a flare end wrench to loosen the fill plug...I know newtis says remove some stuff, but you don't have to. As for rusty fill plugs (NY vehicles ) It's a allen hex....if that doesn't work, penetrating lube, easy-out (with a drill), engineer's pliers, and butane torch if necessary (most of the time, it's not).

Last edited by frisbeeguy; 02-18-2020 at 07:54 PM.
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Old 02-19-2020, 02:42 AM
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6L45 and 50 have different ones. I posted the link to what you need above.


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Old 02-19-2020, 06:23 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by k4adams View Post
I buttoned up all back up for right now, as my other ride, a 2006 X3 is at the body shop because of a deer incident. Once it's back, and warm weather, I'll drop the whole pan to drain. I already had a new fill and drain plug, as it came with the bmw kit. I'll try to get fill plug out once on the work bench. If I ****ed all things up, a new will be ordered. Looking at rockauto, it only shows pans available for 2007 & 2008 LCI's -- I assume this would be the 6L50?? -- Do these pans mount the same? Just in case Thanks
Good luck with the deer hit, glad you have a backup ride. Test drive it carefully after the body work though, and make sure drivability is good. No Bucking or other symptoms that can hide.

Can you get a big sharp (i.e., not Harbor Fright) vice grip (tm) on the drain bolt? It really shouldn't be that tight, the Oring does the sealing. Spec is 18 Nm, that is barely wrist tight with a 6 inch ratchet handle.

Last edited by abscate; 02-20-2020 at 04:07 AM.
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Old 02-19-2020, 07:39 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by k4adams View Post
So, I went to change filter/fluid on trans today (2010 auto), but the drain plug will not come loose. I have the correct Torx bit that I've used on my 2006, but it is not turning on this ride, and is starting to strip. I went ahead and changed the transfer case fluid and both diffs in thoughts that I could just buy a whole new pan and go about it that way; however, I'm unable to locate the pan. Help please -- Duke - your thoughts
Just re-read this again: the drain bolt is a HEX (allen), not a Torx... so that may be the source of your effort. If that doesn't work, take a hammer and a chisel, put a notch in the edge of the drain bolt, then angle the chisel (preferably swap to a blunter-edged chisel or rod), and use the hammer to spin out the bolt.

The engineers did this to limit folks from DIY'ing their own transmissions, knowing that most folks won't be able to handle the temperature-specific fill procedure, as well as to promulgate the "lifetime" fill mantra. NO fastener should EVER have its "force diameter" be smaller than its "resistance" diameter (the hex bit is like 8mm or something tiny like that), so coupled with the rust-welding that would occur in salty environments like NY and people not ever thinking about changing transmission fluid, extracting the drain bolt can become a nightmare. The parts look-up on Rock auto is confusing and incorrect for the '09/'10 models, but verifying on ECS shows the same pan and gasket for the 6L45 for all E83 N52 models. The next gen introduced the ZF 8 speed auto.

Here's the drain plug you want. Notice the unthreaded end that would stick into the transmission: cut that off with a hacksaw and then file the edges smooth to avoid clearance issues with the filter. Also notice how much larger the hex end is relative to the threads. The factory one is a tiny, nearly circular female end which is too small relative to possible force needed.

https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...15153&jsn=2272
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2008 BMW E83 160k+ 2016 Chevy Silverado 84k+
2011 VW Jetta 120k+ 1984 GMC S-15 130k+
1986 Oldsmobile 442 130k on body 200+ on engine
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1962 Springfield Gem 1965 Jacobsen Chief
1977 Bolens G9 1992 Jacobsen 810

Last edited by dukedkt442; 02-19-2020 at 08:56 AM.
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Old 02-19-2020, 01:33 PM
abscate abscate is offline
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Im pretty sure my M54 drain plug was TORX, not Hex, but it came out easily. It was o-Ring sealed.
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Old 02-19-2020, 05:09 PM
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Im pretty sure my M54 drain plug was TORX, not Hex, but it came out easily. It was o-Ring sealed.
That may be, OP has N52. Torx offers much better applied force than an 8mm allen, they're a much better fastener. The N52s are o-ring sealed, as are the replacement 14mm GM hex bolts. Just the friction of heat-soaked rubber is enough to resist the torque of an 8mm allen and begin to round that sucker.

Can you tell I hate that drain bolt? Every transmission pan that pulls behind my shop door that doesn't have a drain hole gets modified so that it leaves with one, and my go-to is the GM drain bolt. I get great satisfaction when it is a Ford pan that the bolt happens to go into...
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2008 BMW E83 160k+ 2016 Chevy Silverado 84k+
2011 VW Jetta 120k+ 1984 GMC S-15 130k+
1986 Oldsmobile 442 130k on body 200+ on engine
1978 Honda Hobbit 2.6k+ 1961 Cub Cadet Original
1962 Springfield Gem 1965 Jacobsen Chief
1977 Bolens G9 1992 Jacobsen 810

Last edited by dukedkt442; 02-19-2020 at 05:10 PM.
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Old 02-20-2020, 04:09 AM
abscate abscate is offline
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Thanks Duke, I got mixed up with the 2006 deer hit reference

M54 Torx

N52 hex, which is hated across the Dukedom
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Old 02-20-2020, 05:50 AM
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N52 hex, which is hated across the Dukedom
And when the factory drain plug is replaced with a better option, the villagers rejoice!
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