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X5 E70 (2007 - 2013)
E70 BMW X5 produced between 2007 and 2013. Discuss the E70 X5 with other BMW owners here.

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  #1  
Old 06-01-2019, 09:34 AM
Flying Ace Flying Ace is offline
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Mein Auto: M6 GC ZCP; '12 X5 Diesel
Legacy X5d owner update!

Hey everyone!

Not sure if you still remember me. I was pretty active here between 2015 to 2017 until my M6 and life stole my attention away from the X5d and this forum.

My '12 X5d now has 86k miles. Whiles it's no spring chicken, it still runs like the day I picked her up!

Some updates on my issues:

1. My parking break switch broke. My preliminary research indicates that the replacement switch may need coding as you may have to buy the entire switch module!

2. The turbo setup has a lot of leaks. Most are very minor, a significant leak was caught before my CPO expired in 2018 so it was fixed on the company's dime. Yesterday, BMW servicing found another leak with oil on my intercooler.

3. I've been on Nitto Motivos (20 inch staggered setup), for a good 20k miles. It now has 5/32nds depth with some excess inside wear (4/32nds on inside). No big deal on the wear as I had an alignment done before install, and regardless, by the time uneven wear showed, it was time to change the tires anyways.

4. Diesel equipment has been reliable since the initial fixes. I've had the classic list of diesel equipment failures fixed around 60k miles including glow plugs controller, DEF tank metering, and SCR. Recently I've had a CEL on and off. I suspect it's a diesel emissions fault but funny thing is I've never been able to catch it on my rudimentary OBD scanner. Even BMW couldn't read any stored code.

5. Over last 20k, the front driver strut area has developed a clunk on low speed bumps. I've had 2 unsuccessful fixes (trust rod bushings and strut assembly). Yesterday, dealership estimated it could be a simple sway bar endlink issue. Just a $50 replacement. Any thoughts on this?
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Last edited by Flying Ace; 06-01-2019 at 09:43 AM.
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  #2  
Old 06-01-2019, 10:03 AM
Flying Ace Flying Ace is offline
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Bump for any thoughts on the suspension clunk:

- only on slow speed bumps or potholes
- if wheel at full lock or half lock, no noise over similar bumps
- nothing at highway speeds

Sounds like an endlink issue, considering the strut assembly (with strut tower bushing "donut" replaces) and trust bearing bushings replaced already. Here's a picture of the X5 with the M
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Last edited by Flying Ace; 06-01-2019 at 10:04 AM.
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  #3  
Old 06-01-2019, 10:10 AM
ArgentoCarNut ArgentoCarNut is offline
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Have you done the strut top bushings?


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Old 06-01-2019, 10:12 AM
Flying Ace Flying Ace is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ArgentoCarNut View Post
Have you done the strut top bushings?


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The donut? Yes, along with the strut itself. See pics below. This was the parts list of the replacement
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Last edited by Flying Ace; 06-01-2019 at 10:13 AM.
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  #5  
Old 06-01-2019, 12:54 PM
robnitro robnitro is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Flying Ace View Post
Bump for any thoughts on the suspension clunk:

- only on slow speed bumps or potholes
- if wheel at full lock or half lock, no noise over similar bumps
- nothing at highway speeds

Sounds like an endlink issue, considering the strut assembly (with strut tower bushing "donut" replaces) and trust bearing bushings replaced already. Here's a picture of the X5 with the M
I recently found a clunk in my steering that I thought I fixed by doing drivers tie rod inner and outer. Turns out a lot of bmw get slop in the rack, including the newer f cars.
Engine off, wobble the steering wheel and listen if it's clunking. Have someone wobble the wheel and listen to see if its coming from the area of the driver's side inner tie rod balljoint. If so, this may help.

The adjustment is a bit annoying... see image. Only do this if you are comfortable and it's not easily accessible without tweaking around. There's a spring inside that tensions this U shaped piece that presses the rack into the gear where the steering wheel shaft connects to.
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Last edited by robnitro; 06-01-2019 at 01:03 PM.
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  #6  
Old 06-02-2019, 09:36 PM
ChrisM011 ChrisM011 is offline
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Thanks for the update!

As for the parking brake switch: if you are referring to the actual lever inside the car that is used to set the brake and release it, then you simply remove and replace - no need for coding/registration to my knowledge.


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  #7  
Old 06-02-2019, 10:01 PM
n1das n1das is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ChrisM011 View Post
Thanks for the update!

As for the parking brake switch: if you are referring to the actual lever inside the car that is used to set the brake and release it, then you simply remove and replace - no need for coding/registration to my knowledge.


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A couple of years ago the parking brake in my 2012 X5 35d became a parking break when the switch handle broke. I was still able to operate the switch using a screwdriver stuck down into the switch assembly. A replacement switch assembly wasn't expensive from what I recall and didn't require any coding.


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  #8  
Old 06-03-2019, 12:38 AM
deroy deroy is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by robnitro View Post
I recently found a clunk in my steering that I thought I fixed by doing drivers tie rod inner and outer. Turns out a lot of bmw get slop in the rack, including the newer f cars.
Engine off, wobble the steering wheel and listen if it's clunking. Have someone wobble the wheel and listen to see if its coming from the area of the driver's side inner tie rod balljoint. If so, this may help.
What is "wobble" for you? I have a click when I quite swiftly move my steering wheel back and forth while parked (engine off) by 1/2 inch, no more. But no sounds when I slowly move the steering wheel. Also, the front wheels always follow the steering wheel, i.e. there is zero play.

Would my click qualify for this treatment you think?

Also; did nut require a lot of torque?

Last edited by deroy; 06-03-2019 at 12:40 AM.
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  #9  
Old 06-03-2019, 03:05 AM
robnitro robnitro is offline
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Yeah I was hearing knock from small movements and couldn't see play.
I had a random clunk feel sometimes when braking at slow speed, and I did the drivers side tie rod +ends already so I figured to try this since friend with e60 m5 had this issue and fixed it that way.

Not a lot of torque. I felt it get tight fast and then went back loose about 20 degrees.
If you don't have the clunk in braking, don't bother with this but it's good to know in case it starts.
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Old 06-03-2019, 03:58 AM
deroy deroy is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by robnitro View Post
Yeah I was hearing knock from small movements and couldn't see play.
I had a random clunk feel sometimes when braking at slow speed, and I did the drivers side tie rod +ends already so I figured to try this since friend with e60 m5 had this issue and fixed it that way.

Not a lot of torque. I felt it get tight fast and then went back loose about 20 degrees.
If you don't have the clunk in braking, don't bother with this but it's good to know in case it starts.
No not while braking, just low speed, swift, short not too severe bumps that cause a soft cluncking. As if a suspension component does not keep up with the swift but mild up and down movement that is required. Longer wavelength bumps etc are all fine. High speed is fine too.
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Old 06-03-2019, 05:19 AM
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1bad540 1bad540 is offline
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sounds like control arms.... I had a light click when coming out of the driveway and turning left, wound up replaceing control arms and engine mounts...and 1 sway bar end link.
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  #12  
Old 06-03-2019, 06:55 AM
deroy deroy is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1bad540 View Post
sounds like control arms.... I had a light click when coming out of the driveway and turning left, wound up replaceing control arms and engine mounts...and 1 sway bar end link.


Theoretically, the control arm bushings do not do much with just vertical wheel movements. Mine seem good. In your case, when turning, they take a lot of load pushing/pulling the car round the corner. The ball joints take some vertical movement, but mine are tight. Sway bar end links would be prime first suspect, but mine are tight too. My strut mount bushings seem fine to they eye, they have not disintegrated like reported by others.


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  #13  
Old 06-03-2019, 07:43 AM
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hsindogg hsindogg is offline
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Here's a DIY $2 fix for the parking brake lever: https://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sh...d.php?t=977191

If you do buy the replacement module, there's zero coding involved. It's just a remove and plug and play.

I have the Nittos as well, I'm probably around 35K on them, I'll probably get another set.
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  #14  
Old 07-21-2019, 09:11 PM
Flying Ace Flying Ace is offline
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As an update, I changed the endlinks and it resolved the clunk. I am loving the car all over again.... until it started leaking again.
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Old 07-21-2019, 09:36 PM
ard ard is offline
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thanks for closing the loop!
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Alignment here: The Definitive Alignment Thread

OE is Original Equipment aka 'BMW Original Parts' aka 'What you buy at the BMW dealer with a BMW label'

OEM is Original Equipment Manufacturer... EITHER the company that made the OE part or.... A part this is identical to the OE part, but is sold by the OEM under their own label


OEM is not what BMW sells


http://www.bimmerzone.com/category/T...ricks_OEM.html

https://www.turnermotorsport.com/t-OEvsOEM
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  #16  
Old 07-22-2019, 01:01 PM
X5-User X5-User is offline
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Originally Posted by Flying Ace View Post
As an update, I changed the endlinks and it resolved the clunk. I am loving the car all over again.... until it started leaking again.
again? so do you mean you had a previous leak that you got it fixed then started again?
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Old 07-22-2019, 01:16 PM
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sunny_j sunny_j is online now
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^^ I'd like to know that as well
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  #18  
Old 07-29-2019, 12:10 PM
Flying Ace Flying Ace is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by X5-User View Post
again? so do you mean you had a previous leak that you got it fixed then started again?
Quote:
Originally Posted by sunny_j View Post
^^ I'd like to know that as well
as if today, I haven't diagnosed the leak yet. It's not a heavy leak. I calculated I lost about a half bottle of oil over the course of 3 months.

I'll look into it in a few weeks. My local BMW dealership is now offering a "free" inspection everytime I go in for service/repair and they also have a "free" coupon to redeem for this service. I'm hoping they're willing to do a minor visual diagnostic to pinpoint where the leak is coming from and provide an estimate. We'll see if they'll do all this without collecting the diagnostic fee.
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Last edited by Flying Ace; 07-29-2019 at 12:11 PM.
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Old 07-29-2019, 12:16 PM
Flying Ace Flying Ace is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by n1das View Post
A couple of years ago the parking brake in my 2012 X5 35d became a parking break when the switch handle broke. I was still able to operate the switch using a screwdriver stuck down into the switch assembly. A replacement switch assembly wasn't expensive from what I recall and didn't require any coding.


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hey, if you have time, can you send me the part number you purchased for the replacement?

On realOEM, I'm seeing that i have the buy then entire module and I cannot simply buy the switch.
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Old 07-29-2019, 12:27 PM
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Doug Huffman Doug Huffman is online now
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61 31 9 148 508. Switch EMF Price:$73.75

https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...sensor/OReE9hl
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Last edited by Doug Huffman; 07-29-2019 at 12:30 PM.
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Old 07-29-2019, 12:32 PM
Flying Ace Flying Ace is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Doug Huffman View Post
61 31 9 148 508. Switch EMF Price:$73.75

https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...sensor/OReE9hl
Thanks Doug! This procedure was going to be my next search on these forums! This broken switch have been bothering me a lot recently.
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Old 07-29-2019, 02:36 PM
Nonsuch Nonsuch is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Flying Ace View Post
...This broken switch have been bothering me a lot recently.
You might try to repair the switch, mine works better than new (less play)
https://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sh...d.php?t=977191
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Old 07-29-2019, 08:59 PM
Flying Ace Flying Ace is offline
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Originally Posted by Nonsuch View Post
You might try to repair the switch, mine works better than new (less play)
https://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sh...d.php?t=977191
Ok thanks, I'll give a try. It's hard to visualize how the screws are going to hold a broken switch in place. Maybe after I take it out, it'll be easier to figure out
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Old 07-29-2019, 11:22 PM
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Which side are you noticing the leak? If it's on the passenger side, it can be from one of the turbo oil lines/oil return lines. Another leak can happen from a ceased valve cover gasket. Do you have any boost leaks? Look at the orange boost hose for any leaks which can cause oil to leak out
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  #25  
Old 12-02-2019, 12:40 PM
Flying Ace Flying Ace is offline
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An update on my ownership. I'm now at 90k miles, exactly. I've fixed the oil leak from the car. Details here: https://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sh....php?t=1346243

Last week, I performed another two sets of repair on the car:

1. My parking brake malfunctioned. The replacement part is close to $1000, labor was a reasonable $150.

2. I had a boost/vacuum issue. Code P0299. I decided to take this one to an indy. It was diagnosed as a deteriorating vacuum line. Replaced the lines as well as the some type of "box". I'll update this post with the p/n of that box. It wasn't the MAF or diverter/re-circulation valve based on my knowledge of what those parts looked like. I've been so busy that I haven't gotten around to updating my records yet. Total parts cost of less than $100. But labor was a painful $400 due to diagnostics time.


The indy pulled stored codes related to the DEF tanks. This is related to the codes I've mentioned earlier on this thread. I'll have to check the thermostat operations first before I decide what to do.

Lastly, my car continues to chew through brakes. I am now fully on board with the FCP Euro process. I'll need a new set of rear pads and rotors next month. Hopefully, I won't sell the car until at least one more set of brake change and I'll be able to recoup some of this cost through FCP's return policy.

You pay to play!
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Last edited by Flying Ace; 12-02-2019 at 12:41 PM.
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