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X5 E70 (2007 - 2013)
E70 BMW X5 produced between 2007 and 2013. Discuss the E70 X5 with other BMW owners here.

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  #26  
Old 08-29-2019, 06:15 AM
Gary214 Gary214 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Natural Stoner View Post
I'm almost to 170k miles on my 2012 X5D. My DPF warning started going off a couple weeks ago, which really sucks because I drive a lot (I drive it for work), but for some reason the DPF isn't regenerating anymore.

There's no emissions in my state so I'm doing the research for how to delete all of the BS emissions parts. Any one have any recommendations for parts for me?

I'm going to have to take it to the dealer soon for the drive shaft recall. I've already taken it in for the airbag and idler pulley (I think) recalls.

I absolutely love mine and am going to keep it forever, especially after deleting the emissions parts.

I guess my advice is that a X5D is awesome, but depending on how long you want to have it, you're going to have to deal with the emissions parts eventually. And if you don't delete the emissions parts (hopefully for your sake, you don't live in an emissions testing state like I don't) it will definitely cost you when you do have to do something about your DPF if you feel like the emissions delete jobs are too much for you.

These are the emissions parts that you have to worry about (hopefully to get rid of) on an e70 X5D, same applies to the diesel sedan version:
DPF
SCR
EGR
Swirlflaps
And a million sensors

If you already have the tools and know-how, from my research it will cost about $2000 to delete everything (if you do the work yourself), much more if you don't delete emissions parts and eventually need to replace or clean the DPF. An even worse scenario is a swirlflap breaks off and causes major damage. The $2000 includes a tune that you'll need after deleting all the emissions crap that slowly destroys the engine and your gas mileage.

Every diesel owner should know, that the emissions parts are quite literally strangling your engine and slowly killing it. I can't wait to delete mine and never have to worry about diesel exhaust fluid ever again, not to mention the much improved gas mileage and increased horsepower.

I love mine so much I'm willing to take on the major hassle that is the unbolting the DPF down pipe from the turbo which does not seem to be a very easy job.
Never understood why people buy diesel. Either buy regular 35i or buy a hybrid. Spending all those $$$ bucks on deleting emissions parts is either illegal in certain states or the expense negates the benefit extra mileage you get.
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  #27  
Old 08-29-2019, 06:37 AM
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Doug Huffman Doug Huffman is offline
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A hint about diesels from south central Pennsylvania. 'Uncle' Larry had a half-dozen VW Rabbit L diesels that he used to take the best one to a half-million miles. Then the state declared it unsafe and refused to resister it again. He was a field engineer for IBM and helped rebuild the data centers that were lost in the WTC.

A neighbor has a Citroen 2CV 'island' car, with a sticker that says in French, It's not just a car, it's a way of life.
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Scepticism and Animal Faith (1923)
Scepticism is the chastity of the intellect, and it is shameful to surrender it too soon or to the first comer: there is nobility in preserving it coolly and proudly through long youth, until at last, in the ripeness of instinct and discretion, it can be safely exchanged for fidelity and happiness.
(The Works of George Santayana p. 65)

Eschew eristical argumentation. I am responsible for what I write, not for your understanding of it.
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  #28  
Old 08-29-2019, 06:37 AM
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Doug Huffman Doug Huffman is offline
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Mein Auto: CPO2012 X5 35d M57(E70)
A hint about diesels from south central Pennsylvania. ‘Uncle’ Larry had a half-dozen VW Rabbit L diesels that he used to take the best one to a half-million miles. Then the state declared it unsafe and refused to resister it again. He was a field engineer for IBM and helped rebuild the data centers that were lost in the WTC.

A neighbor has a Citroen 2CV ‘island’ car, with a sticker that says in French, It’s not just a car, it’s a way of life.
__________________
Scepticism and Animal Faith (1923)
Scepticism is the chastity of the intellect, and it is shameful to surrender it too soon or to the first comer: there is nobility in preserving it coolly and proudly through long youth, until at last, in the ripeness of instinct and discretion, it can be safely exchanged for fidelity and happiness.
(The Works of George Santayana p. 65)

Eschew eristical argumentation. I am responsible for what I write, not for your understanding of it.
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  #29  
Old 08-29-2019, 10:48 AM
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sunny_j sunny_j is online now
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Natural Stoner View Post
I'm almost to 170k miles on my 2012 X5D. My DPF warning started going off a couple weeks ago, which really sucks because I drive a lot (I drive it for work), but for some reason the DPF isn't regenerating anymore.

There's no emissions in my state so I'm doing the research for how to delete all of the BS emissions parts. Any one have any recommendations for parts for me?

I'm going to have to take it to the dealer soon for the drive shaft recall. I've already taken it in for the airbag and idler pulley (I think) recalls.

I absolutely love mine and am going to keep it forever, especially after deleting the emissions parts.

I guess my advice is that a X5D is awesome, but depending on how long you want to have it, you're going to have to deal with the emissions parts eventually. And if you don't delete the emissions parts (hopefully for your sake, you don't live in an emissions testing state like I don't) it will definitely cost you when you do have to do something about your DPF if you feel like the emissions delete jobs are too much for you.

These are the emissions parts that you have to worry about (hopefully to get rid of) on an e70 X5D, same applies to the diesel sedan version:
DPF
SCR
EGR
Swirlflaps
And a million sensors

If you already have the tools and know-how, from my research it will cost about $2000 to delete everything (if you do the work yourself), much more if you don't delete emissions parts and eventually need to replace or clean the DPF. An even worse scenario is a swirlflap breaks off and causes major damage. The $2000 includes a tune that you'll need after deleting all the emissions crap that slowly destroys the engine and your gas mileage.

Every diesel owner should know, that the emissions parts are quite literally strangling your engine and slowly killing it. I can't wait to delete mine and never have to worry about diesel exhaust fluid ever again, not to mention the much improved gas mileage and increased horsepower.

I love mine so much I'm willing to take on the major hassle that is the unbolting the DPF down pipe from the turbo which does not seem to be a very easy job.
Don't forget dropping the subframe to get the DPF out unless you take a hacksaw to it

Last edited by sunny_j; 08-29-2019 at 10:50 AM.
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  #30  
Old 08-29-2019, 03:00 PM
Duchess22 Duchess22 is offline
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I believe every other year the test emissions. But only on the driver side kicker. So seems they are more worried about co2 knocking out the driver.


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  #31  
Old 08-29-2019, 03:08 PM
Gary214 Gary214 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Doug Huffman View Post
A hint about diesels from south central Pennsylvania. 'Uncle' Larry had a half-dozen VW Rabbit L diesels that he used to take the best one to a half-million miles. Then the state declared it unsafe and refused to resister it again. He was a field engineer for IBM and helped rebuild the data centers that were lost in the WTC.

A neighbor has a Citroen 2CV 'island' car, with a sticker that says in French, It's not just a car, it's a way of life.
I first read your Uncle Larry had half-dozen Rabbits

There is no shortage of dieselheads in every state.

That does not make them logical.

Days of diesels in passenger vehicles were kaput the day they mandated emission controls.

Like Eunuchs, the modern castrated diesels are pain the backside.
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  #32  
Old 08-29-2019, 08:04 PM
Natural Stoner Natural Stoner is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sunny_j View Post
Don't forget dropping the subframe to get the DPF out unless you take a hacksaw to it
Yes, you are correct about that. I've seen that in my research.

I'm hoping since I don't have a lift anyway and it will be on jack stands/ramps, that I will be able to use a regular floor jacks and some wood blocks to keep the tranny/engine from dropping and use wood blocks to prop it up the few inches you need.

Maybe I'm underestimating the difficulty of the job and it's not nearly as easy as I think it is.

I've read through a how-to on a different Bimmer forum and many people have done it themselves. I'm taking time off work just to do it.

Unfortunately, youtube videos on the subject are sparse, but I found this one:



If anyone has any other videos or forum posts on the DPF removal, I'd certainly appreciate it.

It looks like it's the hardest part of a total delete job.

Maybe I will just hacksaw it since it doesn't have resale/used value anyway in a worst case scenario situation.
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  #33  
Old 08-29-2019, 08:47 PM
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sunny_j sunny_j is online now
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Let's be real, the DPF you pull out isn't going to be worth anything. If I were you I'd take a hacksaw to it and can it a day. Dropping the subframe is a PITA. I've been there...
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  #34  
Old 08-29-2019, 09:00 PM
Natural Stoner Natural Stoner is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sunny_j View Post
Let's be real, the DPF you pull out isn't going to be worth anything. If I were you I'd take a hacksaw to it and can it a day. Dropping the subframe is a PITA. I've been there...
I agree with you, it's not worth anything. I could care less if it gets destroyed in the process.

But, where do you cut it to get it out? Or, would that be obvious when you start unbolting?

And do you not need the extra space (that dropping the subframe gets you) to get the new down pipe in?

One of the questions I have that doesn't usually get talked about is what do you do with all the extra sensors and crap that you don't need anymore once the DPF is gone? Just electrical tape them up or something and put them out of the way somewhere?
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  #35  
Old 08-29-2019, 09:11 PM
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sunny_j sunny_j is online now
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The new downpipe is tiny compared to the factory dpf


With most well known tuners you only plug in the o2 sensor and the first egt sensor. That's all. Which tune are you going with?
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  #36  
Old 08-29-2019, 10:21 PM
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2010xdrive35d 2010xdrive35d is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sunny_j View Post
The new downpipe is tiny compared to the factory dpf

With most well known tuners you only plug in the o2 sensor and the first egt sensor. That's all. Which tune are you going with?
Where do you get the straight pipe from sunny?
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  #37  
Old 08-29-2019, 10:24 PM
Natural Stoner Natural Stoner is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sunny_j View Post
The new downpipe is tiny compared to the factory dpf

With most well known tuners you only plug in the o2 sensor and the first egt sensor. That's all. Which tune are you going with?
Nice pic, that helps, looks like it wouldn't be hard to install the downpipe in the small space then. When looking at parts, I was wondering why the new downpipes still had 2 extra holes to keep something. I didn't know what 2. Keeping the o2 sensor definitely makes sense.

My challenge will be determining which sensors are which.

I don't know what tune I should go with. I've seen a few websites that have multiple to choose from, like "TuneMyEuro" which seems to have everything you need, including the swirlflap filler blanks. I'm not sure if this AARod guy's parts are good or should be avoided.

I could use some help/recommendations. I don't need a racing tune, just something modest, but not too modest. The "stage 2" is already $850 on TuneMyEuro. I'd rather have better MPG than pay for an expensive racing tune I won't really use. I've gotten more than my fair share of speeding tickets already.

Any help is certainly appreciated.
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  #38  
Old 08-29-2019, 11:10 PM
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sunny_j sunny_j is online now
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You can buy the downpipe from AArod. Get the DOC for $300 which will help with the smell.
https://www.tunemyeuro.com/buzzken-b...-cat-delete-3/

I would go with the BRR. I was running JR 2.8 for a little over a year and was having driveability issues. Switched to Ryan's (BRR) tune about 3 weeks ago and there has been no issues
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  #39  
Old 08-30-2019, 09:55 AM
Will_335iMvert Will_335iMvert is offline
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Just to share some insight, my experience with BMW Diesel has been very good. Although it isn't an E70, my 2011 335d does share its M57 engine and ZF 6at with the X5 35d. This is my 5th 3-Series, but our first with a Diesel engine. To say it is better than a W123 Mercedes-Benz 300D is a drastic understatement lol. For reference, my driving is 98% highway, between 75 and 85mph usually. I had 2 E36/2's, a '94 318is and a '99 323is, both 5mt. They both averaged a good 33+mpg in spite of near 4k rpm at ~80mph. Then an E46/2-C, an '04 330ci ZHP 6mt Convertible I had for 2yrs and 40k, until an idiot totaled it for me. It averaged about 27mpg, which was okay. I'd still have that car otherwise. I loved it. I replaced it with an E93, an '11 335i 6at M-Sport Convertible. CPO, Black Sapphire with Coral Red/Black, with Anthracite Bamboo wood. Just a gorgeous car, loaded with literally every option except Adaptive Cruise. The N55 was amazing, especially coming from the last 2 NA sixes. It didn't have that I6 throaty rumble at idle, though it made up for it with its sheer power, turbo whistle, and unique exhaust sounds. Had it from 55-93k and had no issues except an expected failing Coolant Pump right before I traded it, which I thoroughly regret still. It consistently got 29-30mpg. I miss that car so much, and I basically gave it away for nothing ($7500!) so my husband could get into the '15 Subaru Forester XT Touring he fell head over heels for. I took the '13 Forester 2.5X (!) Premium as my daily and hated it immediately and in every way. Ended up giving it to his parents, and it fits them and they love it. I wanted my convertible back, but needless to say getting into even a sparsely equipped N55 E93 was going to be double what we gave mine up for. I was, and still am, very pissed off. I decided a 335d would suffice. Settled on a 2011 with 67k. Space Gray over Black. No sport package, much less M-Sport, no paddle shifters, sport seats, no Harman/kardon (not even hi-fi which I realized after purchasing, which sucks), no beautiful red leather, no anthracite headliner or wood. It at least has Navigation and iDrive, Cold Weather, Convenience, Premium packages, Comfort Access, Rear and Rear Side Sunshades, and Parking Sensors. But the engine and mileage made up for some of it. Less than a month in, it threw a bunch of codes and went into limp mode. Felt like less power than a million miles 240D auto. It would come and go, and ran normally when not limping, i.e. full power. BMW tech insisted it was likely one or both turbos, maybe more. I could have cried. It still had temporary tag on it! I insisted it was something simple like a vacuum leak, which I'd experienced with various Mercedes. He wouldn't accept that. I took it to my Indy, whom I've used for years and trust, except that he uses Mobil 1 for everything, even though its neither LL-01 or -04. Took a week of diagnosis, but finally discovered a split vacuum line. Part was >$20, though labor was $280. But a huge relief and much appreciated after the scare the (rather incompetent, from past experiences) dealer staff. Since then (April), I've added 10k issue-free. Just completed oil service using correct LL-04 and Mahle filter. I drive between 85-125mi each weekday. I've averaged 34mpg total, with occasional 30mpg and 38mpg tanks. It'll get over 42mpg on straight highway, until exiting into city traffic. The torque is so impressive. I rarely hit even 2500rpm, and then only for wanting, not needing to. I would regularly floor the 335i, but not in the d. It has a different feel than the high revving n55, but not in a bad way. Aside from equipment I miss, I love the car, and I especially enjoy the powertrain. It seems my driving habits of long stretches of highway and not being afraid to open it up are ideal for this car and it's Diesel-specific components, namely SCR system and, in particular, the DPF. If you value any of these points, I'd have no hesitation in getting into an X5 35d. Just do your due diligence and check it out very thoroughly. I apologize in advance for the length of this. I felt history of other vehicles may aid in comparison to Diesel powered versions. -Will
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  #40  
Old 08-30-2019, 10:14 AM
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Doug Huffman Doug Huffman is offline
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Page breaks are your - or my - friend.
__________________
Scepticism and Animal Faith (1923)
Scepticism is the chastity of the intellect, and it is shameful to surrender it too soon or to the first comer: there is nobility in preserving it coolly and proudly through long youth, until at last, in the ripeness of instinct and discretion, it can be safely exchanged for fidelity and happiness.
(The Works of George Santayana p. 65)

Eschew eristical argumentation. I am responsible for what I write, not for your understanding of it.
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  #41  
Old 08-30-2019, 10:30 AM
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2010xdrive35d 2010xdrive35d is offline
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Originally Posted by Will_335iMvert View Post
I apologize in advance for the length of this.
I enjoyed the read!
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  #42  
Old 08-30-2019, 10:30 AM
Gary214 Gary214 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Will_335iMvert View Post
Just to share some insight, my experience with BMW Diesel has been very good. Although it isn't an E70, my 2011 335d does share its M57 engine and ZF 6at with the X5 35d. This is my 5th 3-Series, but our first with a Diesel engine. To say it is better than a W123 Mercedes-Benz 300D is a drastic understatement lol. For reference, my driving is 98% highway, between 75 and 85mph usually. I had 2 E36/2's, a '94 318is and a '99 323is, both 5mt. They both averaged a good 33+mpg in spite of near 4k rpm at ~80mph. Then an E46/2-C, an '04 330ci ZHP 6mt Convertible I had for 2yrs and 40k, until an idiot totaled it for me. It averaged about 27mpg, which was okay. I'd still have that car otherwise. I loved it. I replaced it with an E93, an '11 335i 6at M-Sport Convertible. CPO, Black Sapphire with Coral Red/Black, with Anthracite Bamboo wood. Just a gorgeous car, loaded with literally every option except Adaptive Cruise. The N55 was amazing, especially coming from the last 2 NA sixes. It didn't have that I6 throaty rumble at idle, though it made up for it with its sheer power, turbo whistle, and unique exhaust sounds. Had it from 55-93k and had no issues except an expected failing Coolant Pump right before I traded it, which I thoroughly regret still. It consistently got 29-30mpg. I miss that car so much, and I basically gave it away for nothing ($7500!) so my husband could get into the '15 Subaru Forester XT Touring he fell head over heels for. I took the '13 Forester 2.5X (!) Premium as my daily and hated it immediately and in every way. Ended up giving it to his parents, and it fits them and they love it. I wanted my convertible back, but needless to say getting into even a sparsely equipped N55 E93 was going to be double what we gave mine up for. I was, and still am, very pissed off. I decided a 335d would suffice. Settled on a 2011 with 67k. Space Gray over Black. No sport package, much less M-Sport, no paddle shifters, sport seats, no Harman/kardon (not even hi-fi which I realized after purchasing, which sucks), no beautiful red leather, no anthracite headliner or wood. It at least has Navigation and iDrive, Cold Weather, Convenience, Premium packages, Comfort Access, Rear and Rear Side Sunshades, and Parking Sensors. But the engine and mileage made up for some of it. Less than a month in, it threw a bunch of codes and went into limp mode. Felt like less power than a million miles 240D auto. It would come and go, and ran normally when not limping, i.e. full power. BMW tech insisted it was likely one or both turbos, maybe more. I could have cried. It still had temporary tag on it! I insisted it was something simple like a vacuum leak, which I'd experienced with various Mercedes. He wouldn't accept that. I took it to my Indy, whom I've used for years and trust, except that he uses Mobil 1 for everything, even though its neither LL-01 or -04. Took a week of diagnosis, but finally discovered a split vacuum line. Part was >$20, though labor was $280. But a huge relief and much appreciated after the scare the (rather incompetent, from past experiences) dealer staff. Since then (April), I've added 10k issue-free. Just completed oil service using correct LL-04 and Mahle filter. I drive between 85-125mi each weekday. I've averaged 34mpg total, with occasional 30mpg and 38mpg tanks. It'll get over 42mpg on straight highway, until exiting into city traffic. The torque is so impressive. I rarely hit even 2500rpm, and then only for wanting, not needing to. I would regularly floor the 335i, but not in the d. It has a different feel than the high revving n55, but not in a bad way. Aside from equipment I miss, I love the car, and I especially enjoy the powertrain. It seems my driving habits of long stretches of highway and not being afraid to open it up are ideal for this car and it's Diesel-specific components, namely SCR system and, in particular, the DPF. If you value any of these points, I'd have no hesitation in getting into an X5 35d. Just do your due diligence and check it out very thoroughly. I apologize in advance for the length of this. I felt history of other vehicles may aid in comparison to Diesel powered versions. -Will
I stopped reading after the highlighted text

Everyone knows that 98% highway driving is good for the diesels.

BUT

98% people do not have the luxury of 98% highway driving. Most are local groceries and soccer mom runs for which diesels are pitta.
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  #43  
Old 08-30-2019, 10:44 AM
Will_335iMvert Will_335iMvert is offline
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Originally Posted by Doug Huffman View Post
Page breaks are your - or my - friend.
. I apologize. Again.

I do have a decent understanding of grammatical rules, page breaks, paragraph and sentence construction. It wasn't my intent to trigger the "red pen police" but I shall do better next time I write something.

Also, I wrote while doing multiple tasks over the course of an hour or so, hence the imperfect composition of thoughts.
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  #44  
Old 08-30-2019, 11:22 AM
Natural Stoner Natural Stoner is offline
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Originally Posted by sunny_j View Post
You can buy the downpipe from AArod. Get the DOC for $300 which will help with the smell.
https://www.tunemyeuro.com/buzzken-b...-cat-delete-3/

I would go with the BRR. I was running JR 2.8 for a little over a year and was having driveability issues. Switched to Ryan's (BRR) tune about 3 weeks ago and there has been no issues
Yes, that is the exact DPF delete kit I've been looking at. I would get the cat so the wife doesn't complain about the smell.

Do you have a link for the BRR Tune? I couldn't find it anywhere.

I would like to get the most reliable tune possible. What "driveability" issues were you having before?
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  #45  
Old 08-30-2019, 01:13 PM
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sunny_j sunny_j is online now
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send you a pm with his contact info
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  #46  
Old 11-07-2019, 12:33 PM
BRU1Z BRU1Z is offline
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Hey can you pm me BRR contact info too please ive been reading good stuff about it too
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  #47  
Old 11-09-2019, 12:55 AM
SPL15 SPL15 is offline
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In my own personal opinion, if you have to ask, then you shouldn't, unless you have money, time, & experience to make it so... Or are simply looking for a spare "fun" project car, where you have something else to drive WHEN you need it...

An out of warranty BMW is always a gamble; however, it can be a VERY good & worthwhile gamble if you're competent & prepared to do all the neglected maintenance yourself... Or have the money & relationships to pay someone else to do it all for you.

To expect a $60K - 75K Luxury European SUV that has depreciated to around $10K or so in a very short time period, to somehow magically be as trouble free & cheap to maintain to peak performance as a 1990's era Honda or Toyota, by your local dip$hit wrench turner, is a naive joke on yourself, where you wholly deserve the swift kick to the nuts it will likely cause you...

An out of warranty, high mileage BMW can be an absolutely reliable vehicle that takes hard driving abuse like no other; however, it will very likely require that you make it so...

Some get lucky, a lot of folks do not, or they're so inapt at judging a car's performance that they think that their rough & poorly function car that shifts like crap & struggles to drive straight on the highway is working absolutely great... As a general rule: The overwhelming majority of folks getting rid of their higher mileage out of warranty vehicle, are doing so for a very good reason, that may, or may not, be cheap to get back up to par...

All of the info for common problems with this model & engine is easily found online from a variety of sources. It really is up to you to judge how risk averse you are; where finances, technical competency, & free time, & tool set, should be a primary factor for gauging the amount of risk you're willing to take on.

A high mileage used BMW will no doubt have some issues. Maybe small & easy to fix for cheap, or maybe well beyond your abilities & financial means... If you have to ask, I'd advise against... At the minimum, get a PPI from a competent dealership, which can often be harder to find than a well taken care of E70 35d...

I've test driven and have inspected a lot of E70 35d's before buying the ones that I did, spent well over $1K in PPI's for cars located out of state... All of them where listed in "perfect condition" and "well maintained", even by dealerships, except NONE of them actually were... They all needed a few thousand in repairs to get them up to par for the next $75K miles, where all of them had potentially very expensive hidden issues that were only exposed via BMW specific codes that only a BMW specific scanner / software will read...

Last edited by SPL15; 11-09-2019 at 01:24 AM.
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  #48  
Old 11-09-2019, 05:16 PM
Gary214 Gary214 is offline
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Location: Central PA
 
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Mein Auto: 2011 X5 50i M-Sport
To expect a $60K - 75K Luxury European SUV that has depreciated to around $10K or so in a very short time period, to somehow magically be as trouble free & cheap to maintain to peak performance as a 1990's era Honda or Toyota, by your local dip$hit wrench turner, is a naive joke on yourself, where you wholly deserve the swift kick to the nuts it will likely cause you...

You just described most of the owners who pick up a X5 for 10-125 k and then come here on this forums, crying or cursing.

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  #49  
Old 11-09-2019, 05:16 PM
Gary214 Gary214 is offline
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Location: Central PA
 
Join Date: Aug 2018
Posts: 568
Mein Auto: 2011 X5 50i M-Sport
To expect a $60K - 75K Luxury European SUV that has depreciated to around $10K or so in a very short time period, to somehow magically be as trouble free & cheap to maintain to peak performance as a 1990's era Honda or Toyota, by your local dip$hit wrench turner, is a naive joke on yourself, where you wholly deserve the swift kick to the nuts it will likely cause you...

You just described most of the owners who pick up a X5 for 10-12 k and then come here on this forums, crying or cursing.

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  #50  
Old 11-11-2019, 12:51 AM
SPL15 SPL15 is offline
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Location: West Michigan
 
Join Date: Feb 2019
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Mein Auto: E36 M3. E46 325i, E70 35d
Quote:
Originally Posted by Gary214 View Post
To expect a $60K - 75K Luxury European SUV that has depreciated to around $10K or so in a very short time period, to somehow magically be as trouble free & cheap to maintain to peak performance as a 1990's era Honda or Toyota, by your local dip$hit wrench turner, is a naive joke on yourself, where you wholly deserve the swift kick to the nuts it will likely cause you...

You just described most of the owners who pick up a X5 for 10-12 k and then come here on this forums, crying or cursing.

No doubt... I've had at least 10+ folks inquire about my E70 35d at gas stations or in grocery store parking lots, saying they've been looking at buying one due to how cheap they are (usually for their daughter going off to college, because pretentiousness & vanity in wanting to appear "richer" than the family actually is)... I tell them the cold hard truth of the gamble they'll be taking, where they're always appreciative for having their naivety lifted (most times)... I always end with, "It's by far the best daily driver car I've owned, but it's cost me a lot of time and money to get it that way. These cars sold for $60K - $75K+ and are now selling for around $10K; an AWD Toyota RAV4 or an AWD Honda CRV from the same year, that had an MSRP that was nearly 1/3rd of a well equipped X5, sell for similar prices now, for a VERY good reason... I definitely understand the allure of a BMW from the vanity & cool factor standpoint; however, you don't look cool & no one is envious of you when your POS BMW is broken down on the side of the road w/ several thousand dollars of repairs needed to get it running again..."

No doubt that these are incredibly easy cars to work on, but you have to actually work on them, & actually know how to work on them (or at least have the mental faculties to quickly get up the speed), BEFORE things fail catastrophically if you expect daily driver reliability w/ the performance that SHOULD be expected. Long term durability for some components will always be a concern & risk, where if you don't already have a good relationship with a reasonable price COMPETENT independent mechanic who knows these cars, you'd better have basic technical competency (rare), above average cognitive ability to properly diagnose issues (exceedingly rare), a backup car, & the financial means to take on this inherent risk...

Last edited by SPL15; 11-11-2019 at 01:21 AM.
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