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X5 E70 (2007 - 2013)
E70 BMW X5 produced between 2007 and 2013. Discuss the E70 X5 with other BMW owners here.

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  #26  
Old 09-23-2019, 12:25 PM
BabyUnicornTaco BabyUnicornTaco is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by twh View Post
From the owner's manual...use this procedure to keep the parking brake off...

Before driving into a car wash
The vehicle can roll if you proceed according to the following steps:
1. Insert remote control into ignition lock.
2. Depress brake pedal.
3. Engage transmission position N.
4. Release the parking brake.
5. Switch off the engine.
6. Leave the remote control in the ignition
lock.


No risk of draining the battery with the key left in? This is exactly what you did to complete you rear brakes? Would the neutral release under the front cup holder with the square red key be a simpler method?


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  #27  
Old 09-23-2019, 12:29 PM
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sohor1 sohor1 is offline
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Mein Auto: 2012 X5 35i
First time DIY brake job. Need some assistance. 4.8i with adaptive drive.

In the E70, the parking brake doesnít engage when parked unless auto hold was engaged when the park button was pressed. The rear rotors will come off out issue unless there is significant rust. Whenever I bring the car to a car wash I just put it in neutral with the engine running.


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Last edited by sohor1; 09-23-2019 at 12:32 PM.
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  #28  
Old 09-23-2019, 12:34 PM
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sohor1 sohor1 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BabyUnicornTaco View Post
No risk of draining the battery with the key left in? This is exactly what you did to complete you rear brakes? Would the neutral release under the front cup holder with the square red key be a simpler method?


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FYI - They removed the neutral release in the cup holder on the face lift E70.


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  #29  
Old 09-23-2019, 12:34 PM
twh twh is offline
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The key can be in and the car off.

The thing under the cup holder is the manual move the transmission to neutral - nothing to do with the parking brake. Although, as I recall, there is a manual parking brake release in the rear left side compartment. See the owner's manual.

You can try it. Put the rear up on jack stands and do the procedure and see of you can turn the wheels. If you can, it works.
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  #30  
Old 09-23-2019, 12:40 PM
BabyUnicornTaco BabyUnicornTaco is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by twh View Post
The key can be in and the car off.

The thing under the cup holder is the manual move the transmission to neutral - nothing to do with the parking brake. Although, as I recall, there is a manual parking brake release in the rear left side compartment. See the owner's manual.

You can try it. Put the rear up on jack stands and do the procedure and see of you can turn the wheels. If you can, it works.


Thanks. I appreciate the help. Last thing I want to do is screw up my parking brake.


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  #31  
Old 09-23-2019, 04:10 PM
FredoinSF FredoinSF is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BabyUnicornTaco View Post
From what In know the rear driverís side has the electronic parking brake actuator. It has to be disabled before the brakes and rotors to prevent damage. I read it can either be done with a worthy scan tool or manually removed. 3:35 minutes into this video.


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This doesnít apply.
Not sure if you saw the story comment. That is absolutely key.


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  #32  
Old 09-24-2019, 05:01 PM
zod zod is offline
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Are the brake sensors still part of the ABS these days?
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  #33  
Old 09-24-2019, 05:08 PM
BabyUnicornTaco BabyUnicornTaco is offline
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First time DIY brake job. Need some assistance. 4.8i with adaptive drive.

Quote:
Originally Posted by FredoinSF View Post
This doesnít apply.
Not sure if you saw the story comment. That is absolutely key.


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What comment am I missing. I watched the video and it still looks like it applies.

Edit: Iím fine doing the job in neutral but if I was to do it in park it looks like I would have to follow the video.


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Last edited by BabyUnicornTaco; 09-24-2019 at 05:25 PM.
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  #34  
Old 09-24-2019, 05:14 PM
vinsonr vinsonr is offline
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Originally Posted by zod View Post
Are the brake sensors still part of the ABS these days?
I always strip & tape my sensors up after they wear out initially and I've never had an ABS issue.
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  #35  
Old 09-24-2019, 05:19 PM
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sohor1 sohor1 is offline
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Mein Auto: 2012 X5 35i
First time DIY brake job. Need some assistance. 4.8i with adaptive drive.

Quote:
Originally Posted by zod View Post
Are the brake sensors still part of the ABS these days?


The brake pad sensors are separate from the ABS sensor on the wheel hub.


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  #36  
Old 09-24-2019, 07:17 PM
scottalexander scottalexander is offline
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Did you feel compelled to push new Dot 4 out to each caliper?
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  #37  
Old 09-24-2019, 07:17 PM
lieb923 lieb923 is offline
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Replacing the front pads.

Put the old pads back. Push the pads and crack the bleeder when pads look like they are almost
at the end of travel shut the bleeder. Pull the pads and place the new pads inplace. Volia!
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  #38  
Old 09-24-2019, 10:41 PM
deroy deroy is offline
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Mein Auto: X5 e70 4.8
First time DIY brake job. Need some assistance. 4.8i with adaptive drive.

Quote:
Originally Posted by BabyUnicornTaco View Post
What comment am I missing. I watched the video and it still looks like it applies.

Edit: Iím fine doing the job in neutral but if I was to do it in park it looks like I would have to follow the video.


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Fredo means this:

https://blog.bavauto.com/17160/bmw-d...ergency-brake/

Honestly; you make is seem way too complicated. N or P does not matter, block the front wheels, and as long as your older style bowden cable actuated (electronic or not) parking brake does not have a mind of its own, that does not matter either, just leave it off.

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Last edited by deroy; 09-24-2019 at 10:51 PM.
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  #39  
Old 09-25-2019, 03:13 AM
BabyUnicornTaco BabyUnicornTaco is offline
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Sounds good. Thanks guys. I just wanted to be sure.


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  #40  
Old 09-25-2019, 11:04 AM
FredoinSF FredoinSF is offline
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https://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sh...d.php?t=887431
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  #41  
Old 09-25-2019, 12:04 PM
BabyUnicornTaco BabyUnicornTaco is offline
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Originally Posted by FredoinSF View Post


Thanks for the link.


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  #42  
Old 10-22-2019, 08:49 PM
Bimmerod Bimmerod is offline
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Front & Rear Vids

I used these videos when doing mine. They were a great walk through of the process which saved me a ton of money.

Front:


Rear


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  #43  
Old 11-10-2019, 06:57 PM
BabyUnicornTaco BabyUnicornTaco is offline
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Location: Charleston, SC
 
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Mein Auto: 2008 X5 4.8i E70 Sport
First time DIY brake job. Need some assistance. 4.8i with adaptive drive.

Quote:
Originally Posted by twh View Post
From the owner's manual...use this procedure to keep the parking brake off...

Before driving into a car wash
The vehicle can roll if you proceed according to the following steps:
1. Insert remote control into ignition lock.
2. Depress brake pedal.
3. Engage transmission position N.
4. Release the parking brake.
5. Switch off the engine.
6. Leave the remote control in the ignition
lock.


Hey twh. If this procedure is successful and the X5 can roll, do I compress the piston in the caliper on the rear parking brake wheel the same as the front? I used a pry bar last time.


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  #44  
Old 11-11-2019, 06:52 AM
twh twh is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BabyUnicornTaco View Post
Hey twh. If this procedure is successful and the X5 can roll, do I compress the piston in the caliper on the rear parking brake wheel the same as the front? I used a pry bar last time.


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No exactly sure what you are asking.

The rear disc brake caliper piston can be retracted the same way as the front. I don't like the pry bar method unless your pry bar is the size of a large screwdriver. The part I don't like is using the pry bar you rocking the piston back and forth a bit and that can damage the piston sliding seal. I have a brake pad retraction tool that is like $10. Before that, I would put a piece of 2x4 or scrap wood inside the caliper up against the piston or pad. Then I would level up the board side and not the piston side. The rocking action of the piston is minimal in this case.

Are you asking about the rear parking brake shoes that are in the drum part of the rear rotor? If so, those use a smaller hydraulic cylinder and not a disc brake caliper. You do not need a pry bar for that. You need to go into the adjustment hole of the rotor and back off the adjusting screw so that the brake shoes retract enough to get the shoes past the lip inside the drum that has developed over the years. if you are lucky there will be no lip and you won't need to do this at all to get them off. You will need to adjust them if you change rotors. See newtis for the parking brake adjustment. When I changed rear rotors, I adjusted my wife's X5 electronic parking brake equipped car using the manual adjustment procedure listed for my 2006 530xi. Something like, go into adjustment hole, adjust until wheel cannot be turned, back off X number of clicks.
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  #45  
Old 11-12-2019, 11:47 PM
SPL15 SPL15 is offline
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I'd not use a pry bar to compress the piston for the reasons listed... A large c-clamp is cheap, a legit brake piston pusher back tool thingy is equally as cheap.

When compressing the piston back in, do it VERY slow to avoid unnecessary wear & tear on the piston seals. The piston dust boot "should" keep dust & grit out of the seal; however, even with an intact dust boot, depending on climate & driving habits, there can be a tiny bit of surface rust / corrosion spotting on the piston which you absolutely do not want to violently force across the piston seals... If there's heavy corrosion / pitting on the piston surface, the seal will be damaged regardless of how slow you go. A slightly damaged / worn out piston seal may not leak brake fluid, but it will cause undue & uneven wear on the pads due to the seal not effectively pulling in the piston after release of the brake pedal.

Bleeding the brakes & ABS system is highly advised if replacing pads with the pistons that far extended... Moisture ingress into the brake fluid occurs at the calipers & the reservoir, where the calipers are the primary / only ingress point for any air that may gradually be pulled into the brake system. You don't want to push in this moisture laden / old fluid back into the brake lines unless you plan to fully bleed / flush the brake fluid shortly after doing so... Unless you have a pressure bleeder, I'd recommend taking to the dealership for a full flush & bleed of the brake fluid, as it's only $150 or so. If the brake fluid has never been fully flushed w/ the proper actuation of the ABS system, this is certainly needed anyways. Lots of old master cylinders are damaged during a brake bleed on a neglected brake system due to the pedal being repeatedly pushed all the way to the floor, which pushes any rough / corroded sections of the master cylinder piston past the seals, causing them to leak slightly, where the brake pedal will NEVER feel firm again until the master cylinder is replaced...

If you haven't, ALWAYS replace the caliper guide pin bushings when doing the brakes. They're very cheap & they always pay for themselves w/ even pad wear for maximum life, as well as a much more predictable / consistent pedal feel, especially in hard use or "panic braking" situations. If the caliper guide pin bushings have never been replaced on a high mileage car, the results of replacing them can be astounding...

On my both of my LCI 35d's, the rear brakes were exactly like the fronts. No need to manually reset the parking brake actuator, no need to do anything special except not applying the parking brake... On my LCI 35d's, the mechanically actuated parking brake is simply a common drum brake that sits inside of the disc rotor hub. Actuating the parking brake would simply not allow the disc rotor to be removed from the hub, replacing only the pads would be a non issue even with the parking brake actuated. From what I've read, the X50i & the X5M rear brakes are identical to the LCI 35d, except for a larger diameter rotor & different caliper bracket to accommodate the larger diameter rotor. May not be the same on all E70's though...

On both of my rear brake jobs, there was no lip on the parking brake drum section inside the hub of the rotor that prevented it from being removed. The rotors slid right off without any issue. The new rotors slid over the parking brake pads without issue either (without any adjustment of the parking brake pads). Considering the way the parking brake system works, where the hydraulic disc brakes are used when the engine is on & the mechanically actuated parking drum brakes only actuate when the engine is off, I can't imagine there would be an appreciable lip unless something funny / unusual was frequently occurring prior to your ownership of the vehicle... Of note, there's a parking brake wear in procedure that helps "bed" the parking brake pads to the rotor; you need a capable BMW specific scan tool to do this (Foxwell NT520), or ISTA (but I'm sure there are other tools that can do this as well). I wouldn't do the final parking brake adjustment until after the bed in procedure has been performed, especially if you swap in Zimmerman rotors with the fairly thick & easily worn off zinc coating / paint.

Last edited by SPL15; 11-13-2019 at 12:20 AM.
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