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  #1  
Old 11-01-2014, 12:20 PM
fireroasted fireroasted is offline
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N63 Turbo Coolant Lines leaking, e70 5.0i MSport

Hello all,

Jan 16th, 2015 Update.
I did confirm that ECS sold me OEM BMW hoses. They promptly offered to replace them. BMW also offered to replace them. As long as they are OEM the parts are covered.
I have not found any good option except using screw clamps to stop the eventual leaking.
I have replaced most but not all of the clamps on those hoses, and believe I have addressed the majority of the leaking.


OP:
I still owe the forum a How To on replacing the Turbo Coolant lines, 4 metal and rubber lines, for my X5 N63 MSport E70. I did this job right when I bought the vehicle last year and all went well. The lines were clearly failing and I was losing coolant. You could also smell the coolant burning off when parked. I bought all four lines from ECSTuning, and they seemed like good quality, packed well, included the washers, etc.

The worked was pretty significant, but I have rebuilt engines, so it was just tedious for access, and not very difficult. Maybe a 4 or 5 on a 1-10 scale.

About 6 months later I had to troubleshoot what I thought was another coolant leak. I purchased a replaced tank, but that wasn't the issue, I check all the lines, everything fine. Eventually I found myself up at the turbo lines again. The sections that go from metal to rubber have crimped clamps on them. I assumed they were better than screw type and they are stock. However, after just about a year of use they are leaking and spraying coolant around just like the previous set of hoses.

Does anyone have any experience with this failure?
Did you have BMW replace with OEM lines?
Did you have non genuine lines to replace?
Did the issue come back?

I am at the point where I am going to contact ECS and find out why such a relatively expensive set of hoses would be such low quality. Not sure they will care, but it seems that 300 dollars worth or hoses should hold up much better than 6 months.

Could any think if there is another issue going on that would cause the hoses to fail prematurely?

Also, would you replace the hoses with BMW genuine ones, or would you just remove the crimp clamp and attach a screw type. The latter is the cheap way out and what I was going to do today.

Thanks for any input.

This is a pic of one of the new lines and the crimp clamp up close. You can actually see the white deposits from the coolant being cooked off as it leaks out of the join between the metal and rubber hose.


This is an overview pic so you get an idea of the 2 lines to each turbo. 1 in and 1 out, times two turbos. Access is a PITA.

Last edited by fireroasted; 01-16-2015 at 11:16 PM.
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  #2  
Old 11-01-2014, 02:02 PM
ard ard is offline
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Lots of ECS parts are OE BMW that they source from BMW dealers. AFAIK, the ONLY place to get a BMW part os from a dealership. ECS may simply source them from a dealer.

If it is OE BMW and if passing it through ECS doesnt screw you, OE parts should have a 2 year warranty. Places like getbmwparts.com for example is "BMW of Silver Spring MD"

Looking at those compostie hose assemblies, I would be surprised if anyone actually has copied BMW parts.

See what ECS says. Heck, maybe have a BMW dealer fix it under warranty.....

Edit: If I am paying the bill/doing the work, Id surely replace those crimp on clamps with something else, see how it works.
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Alignment here: The Definitive Alignment Thread

OE is Original Equipment aka 'BMW Original Parts' aka 'What you buy at the BMW dealer with a BMW label'

OEM is Original Equipment Manufacturer... EITHER the company that made the OE part or.... A part this is identical to the OE part, but is sold by the OEM under their own label


OEM is not what BMW sells


http://www.bimmerzone.com/category/T...ricks_OEM.html

https://www.turnermotorsport.com/t-OEvsOEM

Last edited by ard; 11-01-2014 at 02:04 PM.
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  #3  
Old 11-02-2014, 09:05 AM
fireroasted fireroasted is offline
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I am thinking to cut the crimp on clamp off and replace with a screw on clamp.

Does anyone know if the crimp on clamp can be tightened? I don't have a tool for that clamp, so I was wondering if with the correct tool you could just crimp them down a bit more.

The real struggle here is if this one is bad, and is an OE BMW hose, then the several other connections on the 3 other hoses could eventually fail in the same way. Meaning I would need to replace something like 8 clamps. That just seems ridiculous, but as you can tell I don't have a choice.

My truck is a 70k and I don't have any warranty anymore. I have the extended maintenance, but so far I have found that to be essentially useless.

So all this stuff is on me. I just wasn't expecting things to start filing until 150k. Not at 65k.
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Old 11-02-2014, 09:54 AM
ard ard is offline
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You are not understanding.

BMW parts have a BMW warranty..UNRELATED to the warranty of the car. If you bought an OE bmw part from a BMW dealer the PART will have a 2 year warranty. The question is "Are the ECS hoses real BMW parts with a BMW warranty?"

Id buy high quality screw clamps and replace them ...But ONLY if the parts dont have a BMW warranty
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Alignment here: The Definitive Alignment Thread

OE is Original Equipment aka 'BMW Original Parts' aka 'What you buy at the BMW dealer with a BMW label'

OEM is Original Equipment Manufacturer... EITHER the company that made the OE part or.... A part this is identical to the OE part, but is sold by the OEM under their own label


OEM is not what BMW sells


http://www.bimmerzone.com/category/T...ricks_OEM.html

https://www.turnermotorsport.com/t-OEvsOEM
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  #5  
Old 11-02-2014, 03:01 PM
fireroasted fireroasted is offline
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OK, I think I understood you, but I needed a solution now. I replaced that one with a screw clamp. I also did a bunch of research for tools for the crimp clamps.

This was a pretty good thread with good links.
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/a.../t-206159.html

I will check with ECS, but even if they did warranty them, which according to their website they wouldn't because its more than 60 days, they would provide the same thing. I can already tell that other joints are too free between the rubber and metal pipe. If you can freely turn the rubber, then the clamp isn't tight enough. I suspect this happens because the rubber shrinks down from the heat and molds into the shape the clamp set when cold. So essentially all of them need retightening after a few good heat cycles.

The screw clamp definitely solved the leaking problem. Now there are 7 more, and they aren't as easy to reach. ugh.
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Old 11-02-2014, 06:17 PM
Nonsuch Nonsuch is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fireroasted View Post
...Does anyone know if the crimp on clamp can be tightened? I don't have a tool for that clamp, so I was wondering if with the correct tool you could just crimp them down a bit more.
Those are Oetiker clamps, and are (or should be) installed with a full cycle crimping tool. While it might be possible to slightly tighten the clamp, switching to a screw clamp seems like a better approach.

BMW OEM hose clamps are quite good, here are a few part numbers:

Hose clamp 12 - 15 mm 7129952104
Hose clamp 15 - 19 mm 7129952107
Hose clamp 16 - 30 mm 7129952111
Hose clamp 28 - 33 mm 7129952113
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  #7  
Old 11-03-2014, 10:29 AM
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fireroasted you have a PM.

And to answer a question previous posed in the thread, if a part on our site reads brand genuine BMW it is the exact same part you'd be getting from your dealerships parts counter, from the BMW parts network, etc. They are real BMW part, and like BMW parts they carry the BMW warranty.


-James
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Last edited by ECSTuning; 11-03-2014 at 10:31 AM.
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Old 11-03-2014, 02:21 PM
ard ard is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ECSTuning View Post
fireroasted you have a PM.

And to answer a question previous posed in the thread, if a part on our site reads brand genuine BMW it is the exact same part you'd be getting from your dealerships parts counter, from the BMW parts network, etc. They are real BMW part, and like BMW parts they carry the BMW warranty.


-James
Nice when the horse's mouth shows up!

did you ever sell non-BMW coolant hoses for this application? Out of curiosity....
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Alignment here: The Definitive Alignment Thread

OE is Original Equipment aka 'BMW Original Parts' aka 'What you buy at the BMW dealer with a BMW label'

OEM is Original Equipment Manufacturer... EITHER the company that made the OE part or.... A part this is identical to the OE part, but is sold by the OEM under their own label


OEM is not what BMW sells


http://www.bimmerzone.com/category/T...ricks_OEM.html

https://www.turnermotorsport.com/t-OEvsOEM
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  #9  
Old 11-03-2014, 02:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ard View Post
Nice when the horse's mouth shows up!

did you ever sell non-BMW coolant hoses for this application? Out of curiosity....
99.9% sure we haven't added any aftermarket coolant hoses for this application (E70 N63) to date. If there is one in particular you'd like me to double check shoot me the part number and I'll search the back end of our system for any parts that exists that have been turned off. Likewise if you'd like an aftermarket I can check with our suppliers for specific parts.

-James
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Old 11-03-2014, 02:45 PM
ard ard is offline
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In my prior experience BMW has paid to replace a defective part I purchased from a BMW dealer and installed myself. ie they covered labor.

Will then honor the BMW warranty if the parts are passed through ECS?
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Alignment here: The Definitive Alignment Thread

OE is Original Equipment aka 'BMW Original Parts' aka 'What you buy at the BMW dealer with a BMW label'

OEM is Original Equipment Manufacturer... EITHER the company that made the OE part or.... A part this is identical to the OE part, but is sold by the OEM under their own label


OEM is not what BMW sells


http://www.bimmerzone.com/category/T...ricks_OEM.html

https://www.turnermotorsport.com/t-OEvsOEM
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  #11  
Old 11-03-2014, 02:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ard View Post
In my prior experience BMW has paid to replace a defective part I purchased from a BMW dealer and installed myself. ie they covered labor.

Will then honor the BMW warranty if the parts are passed through ECS?
Typically we handle warranty on BMW parts sold through us, just to make it easier for everyone. Some dealers will handle the warranty on the parts for you, but then again some will only handle warranty on parts purchased from their parts counters.
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Old 11-03-2014, 06:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nonsuch View Post
Those are Oetiker clamps, and are (or should be) installed with a full cycle crimping tool. While it might be possible to slightly tighten the clamp, switching to a screw clamp seems like a better approach.

BMW OEM hose clamps are quite good, here are a few part numbers:

Hose clamp 12 - 15 mm 7129952104
Hose clamp 15 - 19 mm 7129952107
Hose clamp 16 - 30 mm 7129952111
Hose clamp 28 - 33 mm 7129952113
I have the correct Oetiker crimping tool, and just checked to see if additional crimping is possible. No joy
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Old 11-04-2014, 08:11 AM
ard ard is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ECSTuning View Post
Typically we handle warranty on BMW parts sold through us, just to make it easier for everyone. Some dealers will handle the warranty on the parts for you, but then again some will only handle warranty on parts purchased from their parts counters.
But that means buyers on on the hook for the labor to get the part out and reinstall the new part....

A receipt for BMW parts from a BMW dealer will get you into any bmw dealer for service and labor...correct?
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Alignment here: The Definitive Alignment Thread

OE is Original Equipment aka 'BMW Original Parts' aka 'What you buy at the BMW dealer with a BMW label'

OEM is Original Equipment Manufacturer... EITHER the company that made the OE part or.... A part this is identical to the OE part, but is sold by the OEM under their own label


OEM is not what BMW sells


http://www.bimmerzone.com/category/T...ricks_OEM.html

https://www.turnermotorsport.com/t-OEvsOEM
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  #14  
Old 11-04-2014, 11:12 PM
Nonsuch Nonsuch is offline
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Just a random thought:

Is there any chance the engine is overheating?
You could use the hidden menu to monitor the coolant temp.
Or perhaps the radiator cap is allowing excess pressure.
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Old 01-12-2015, 10:14 AM
fireroasted fireroasted is offline
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Thanks all for the comments. I need to figure out why I wasn't getting notifications on replies to this thread. I know its a bit old, but I will update here, because I think folks must be running into this issue on the N63. We don't drive the truck in any hard manner, (its my wife's), and we live in SoCal, so temps are mild and truck is garaged.

I did replace all 4 lines, and have since replaced several pipe to hose joints of those lines that eventually leaked. The engine was just removed and a massive overhaul completed. It started with fuel pump errors and mushroomed into a massive project. I will report on that in another thread when its all worked out.

The tie in here is that even with BMW master techs completing the work on everything the lines started leaking when the truck came back. In fact they installed one of the lines I couldn't access for me while doing the work. So one of the lines was effectively brand new. And the exact process repeated itself. The rubber started to leak a few days in providing super heated steam in the engine bay. This steam breaks down any other plastic or rubber causing other failures.

I believe that the rubber lines heat up at the metal pipe and loses its mailability. It gets hard, and then the cycling of the pressure means the crimp clamps is not longer as effective as it was when the crimp was put on in the factory. If you could touch up the pressure of the crimp as the other poster tested, it might be fine. But, you can't. So the screw clamp besides providing more pressure, also allows you to tighten it slightly after the rubber has cycled. Each one I have replaced has been resolved.

I didn't see James' response until today unfortunately for me, but I send him a PM.
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Old 01-16-2015, 09:11 PM
Bige137 Bige137 is offline
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Fireroasted I am having the exact problem. I have replaced all10 of the clamps I see with the screw clamps but I still have a little coolant smell. Of course I can't see where the metal tubing is connected but I was wondering if that is a spot that you had issues with as well. I haven't tried to snug the clamps up any since I put them on but I may do that in the morning. It isn't leaking enough to see any puddles but I don't like smelling any amount of coolant when I stop and get out of the car. They quoted me $2200 to replace those hoses and I feel that is absolutely ridiculous. They said the turbos had to be removed to change them. Did you have to remove yours when you changed them? Any tips if I do this myself? Thanks.
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Old 01-16-2015, 11:10 PM
fireroasted fireroasted is offline
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The other end of the lines are typical banjo bolt setups. The line ends in a round fitting through which a hollow bolt goes. The fitting is sandwiched between two copper crush washers. They are theoretically one time use washers, but can be re used with a few rubs on a really flat stone or supra fine grit sand paper. In my experience with these lines I only had the metal or banjo bolt side leak when I replaced the hoses. They were not part of my initial leaking. Nor on my other turbo track rat car have those fittings ever failed. I replaced all 4 hoses, which was costly. Turns out the used hoses I took out were fine, but the crimp clamps failed as you already know. When I re installed the new hoses I did not tighten one of the metal lines ends, the banjo bolt, enough and that leaked, so I had to go back in. There is a fine line between over tightening the copper crush washers and then they won't seal well because they deform too much.

I had to get access to that line again, essentially doing most of the work twice, and replace those washers. Since then I don't have leaks on the metal ends. I have since then replaced most of the clamps with screw clamps and have retightened them all once they got a good heat cycle. Some really good heat, or heavy footed driving will bring the temp up on the hoses. Don't tighten them while they are hot though. Let them cool, and then re snug them.

Now I believe your lingering smell is actually coolant that is burning off in the valley pan of the top of the motor. Those lines had likely been leaking for a while, and there is plenty of residue. I wouldn't be too concerned or too much in a hurry to have the smell gone right away. Give it time. Monitor your coolant level. I still have some smell, but I know its getting less and less. I always park the X5 in the garage after a drive and sniff around. Mine is getting less and less. I will still eventually do all of the clamps, but for now I am going slow so I can confirm those top ones were my root cause. You may also notice that you smell the coolant under the car where the grans mates the engine, and that is an area where gravity will have the valley pan drain. When I had the parts off for my project I actually sprayed simple green in the valley pan and flushed the residue gunk and oil toward the firewall with a high pressure water hose. I don't recommend this, but I am just letting you know that I did this to speed up what looked like years of leaking before I got the car. I then saw all that come down underneath near the trans. When I had the leak again after the motor work I could smell coolant there as it worked its way there again from the newer leak.

Another random thing, but since I have put my face in there right after drives I have a pretty good idea of the heat in that engine bay, and I have been leaving the plastic cover off of the engine. I believe this is making a difference on trapped heat. When the engine is stopped and no airflow is going through there its an oven. Having the plastic cover off lets that rubber and plastic wiring cool much quicker by letting the air escape helping the fact that there is no air flow happening. Not sure it matters, but its what I am doing now. None of this should be necessary I know, but it is what we have. I checked with my seemingly very competent SA, a former mechanic for years, and he said frustratingly BMW has still not issued any different parts for those hoses with those ridiculous clamps. He offered to replace all of mine again, since BMW warranties all of their parts no matter where you buy them. I decided to pass, because they would just put on new hoses, which mine really are new just purchased from ECS, and the clamps would be the same.

During my recent N63 massive engine service, a different topic, I asked for the tech to just replace all of the crimp clamps with screw clamps since the motor was out and I would even provide them, but they stated they could not. This made sense but it was worth a try. Within a day of getting the X5 back that stuff was leaking again. I have since replaced a few more clamps and the leaking seems to have stopped. Again, I am giving it time to let the residue the builds up burn off from all the surfaces, mostly the valley pan.

You do not need to remove the turbos, but a couple of the banjo bolts require a small wrench and some patience for access. On a difficulty scale I'd say the job is only a 5. Tedious, but once your remove the air box, and its tubing, the heat shields and metal cover over the turbos you can gain access to everything you need easily. With one exception, one of the hoses connects to the bottom of the radiator, and that one I left on the car when I did it. That was a hose that was furthest from the turbos and showed the least sign of wear. Likely because it was exposed to less heat. When they did my N63 service they did install that hose for me (I still had it from ECS and just handed it to the tech). Ironically that is the hose that started leaking on me this second time around. That is where I put the recent set of screw clamps.

Again, I think you can DIY this, yes. I also think BMW should be doing this if you are under warranty, but its not terribly difficult. So, pick your battles I guess. The rub is that I would think its the metal/rubber connection that has leaked and not your banjo bolts. So if you have replaced all of the clamps I think you are just smelling residue that may take a few weeks to burn off.
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Old 03-24-2016, 04:20 PM
frankkao14 frankkao14 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bige137 View Post
Fireroasted I am having the exact problem. I have replaced all10 of the clamps I see with the screw clamps but I still have a little coolant smell. Of course I can't see where the metal tubing is connected but I was wondering if that is a spot that you had issues with as well. I haven't tried to snug the clamps up any since I put them on but I may do that in the morning. It isn't leaking enough to see any puddles but I don't like smelling any amount of coolant when I stop and get out of the car. They quoted me $2200 to replace those hoses and I feel that is absolutely ridiculous. They said the turbos had to be removed to change them. Did you have to remove yours when you changed them? Any tips if I do this myself? Thanks.


I noticed that you are in SC as well.

I am having the turbo line leaking as well but hilton head BMW quoted me $3500 to replace those hoses.

Can you please tell me which dealership provided you the quote?
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Old 04-16-2016, 09:52 PM
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My car had the "charge air cooling system, reduced power output" message stored in the DME. Took it to the dealer (they replaced valve stem seals a couple of weeks ago), and apparently, the turbocharger coolant feeder line in bank 1 is leaking coolant, at the junction where the metal meets rubber; the "cylinder head bleeder hose" is also apparently leaking coolant. Dealer is quoting $2K to replace the leaking hoses/lines.

My car's service history shows that the turbo coolant line(s) were replaced twice (don't know if just the leaking line was replaced or everything) - once in 9/14 and another in 3/13.

Given this, my question is, is it advisable to replace the entire line, as BMW does not sell the rubber hose separately, or should I find an indy and just replace the rubber hose, or even just the clamp?
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Old 04-16-2016, 11:10 PM
fireroasted fireroasted is offline
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My experience matches your service history. The factory lines leak eventually. The metal never changes size, but the rubber does through heat cycles, and also changes its physical properties over time. It gets harder and less likely to seal properly unless tightened.

What I have found is even the factory hose with an aftermarket clamp will start to fail are 10k miles. The clamps need to be snugged up, to make up for the rubber degrading and loosening.

The crimp clamps don't allow for this process and BMW just replaces the line wit a new one. its kind of infuriating. I would just replace all the crimp clamps you can reach with a good screw clamp. You will be surprised how much that fixes.

I even had BMW Service manager write some notes on one of my service logs blaming the leaking coolant on my after market clamps. it was annoying, but it pointed out that a reminder that the BMW rubber changes over time, and you need to be on top of tightening it up. There is a ton of trapped heat on the top of the engine because of that design. I also run without the engine cover to all more airflow across the top of all those fittings.
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Old 04-16-2016, 11:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fireroasted View Post
My experience matches your service history. The factory lines leak eventually. The metal never changes size, but the rubber does through heat cycles, and also changes its physical properties over time. It gets harder and less likely to seal properly unless tightened.

What I have found is even the factory hose with an aftermarket clamp will start to fail are 10k miles. The clamps need to be snugged up, to make up for the rubber degrading and loosening.

The crimp clamps don't allow for this process and BMW just replaces the line wit a new one. its kind of infuriating. I would just replace all the crimp clamps you can reach with a good screw clamp. You will be surprised how much that fixes.

I even had BMW Service manager write some notes on one of my service logs blaming the leaking coolant on my after market clamps. it was annoying, but it pointed out that a reminder that the BMW rubber changes over time, and you need to be on top of tightening it up. There is a ton of trapped heat on the top of the engine because of that design. I also run without the engine cover to all more airflow across the top of all those fittings.
Appreciate the response, fireroasted. Just to clarify - are you suggesting simply replacing the crimp clamps with screw clamps, instead of replacing the rubber or the line itself? Are they easy to reach, with the engine cover off, or is more disassembly of the engine required? Also, i'm unfamiliar with the cylinder head bleeder hose - do you know something about it?
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Old 04-17-2016, 11:59 PM
fireroasted fireroasted is offline
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The screw clamps are easy to get to except for a couple. The only one that really matters that is up with the turbo's (the heat) is in the center slightly under some of the hard lines between he turbos. However, its possible to change that one with just the cover off, but it may take some fiddling and some clever angle pliers/cutters to get the crimp on one off.

I just replaced the ones that were showing signs of leaking, which is easy to tell, because they will have white powered residue from it having been leaking coolant.

When I originally removed my hoses a couple were suspect in that you wouldn't want to have re-used them, however based on your post yours are likely in very good shape, because its been done several times. You just need them to seal properly, and that maybe over and over as a maintenance item. Replacing the hoses is however most likely silly, or like replacing your car because the radio doesn't work, illogical.

The BMW hoses come assembled to your tech won't futz with any of that. The metal lines and the rubber are crimped at the manufacturing facility. However, they will just fail in the same way again, and that's why you have already had 3 sets. The new ones just give you a new time clock, but not a solution to the engineer ridiculousness of those. Its actually complete failure if you consider how much testing and R&D actually goes into a new motor. Just embarrassing.

The screw clamps might not be anything but a ghetto fab DIY, but its at least something that directly attempts to resolve root cause.

Cylinder head bleader hose is likely an EVAP plastic hose. They also have a valve in them. The BMW EVAP system is very complex, but theoretically I thought I understood it, but in any X5 I have worked on, I have never been able to resolve the EVAP issues completely. So full disclaimer I don't know anything about those that I could prove. I had a plastic one replaced on both sides of the engine during my N63 service bulletin. Prior to that I tried replacing one myself, and I am told that I broke it, and so they did it again. They are plastic, and get brittle with time and heat, so they crack and then its a disaster. Those are a tough DIY, so I wouldn't recommend it unless you are very skilled and experienced. The reason is that connect to the block down low where the intake tract is and there is very little access on the side of the engine. The frame rail is there, and its a PITA. The other two ends connect up top, but access for the rear one requires quite a bit of stuff on the top removed, like turbo heat shields, etc.

If they are actually busted, then they need doing. No way around it. See if you can get the techs to show you with a pic or evidence that they need doing. If you just had the valve stem seals done and they checked everything before that work, its very suspect to me that they didn't in fact break or disturb those items during that work, which is now causing your issues.
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  #23  
Old 04-18-2016, 01:38 PM
bmwx5er's Avatar
bmwx5er bmwx5er is offline
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Location: Seattle
 
Join Date: Sep 2014
Posts: 703
Mein Auto: '12 X5 50i, '16 m235 xi
Quote:
Originally Posted by fireroasted View Post
The screw clamps are easy to get to except for a couple. The only one that really matters that is up with the turbo's (the heat) is in the center slightly under some of the hard lines between he turbos. However, its possible to change that one with just the cover off, but it may take some fiddling and some clever angle pliers/cutters to get the crimp on one off.

I just replaced the ones that were showing signs of leaking, which is easy to tell, because they will have white powered residue from it having been leaking coolant.

When I originally removed my hoses a couple were suspect in that you wouldn't want to have re-used them, however based on your post yours are likely in very good shape, because its been done several times. You just need them to seal properly, and that maybe over and over as a maintenance item. Replacing the hoses is however most likely silly, or like replacing your car because the radio doesn't work, illogical.

The BMW hoses come assembled to your tech won't futz with any of that. The metal lines and the rubber are crimped at the manufacturing facility. However, they will just fail in the same way again, and that's why you have already had 3 sets. The new ones just give you a new time clock, but not a solution to the engineer ridiculousness of those. Its actually complete failure if you consider how much testing and R&D actually goes into a new motor. Just embarrassing.

The screw clamps might not be anything but a ghetto fab DIY, but its at least something that directly attempts to resolve root cause.

Cylinder head bleader hose is likely an EVAP plastic hose. They also have a valve in them. The BMW EVAP system is very complex, but theoretically I thought I understood it, but in any X5 I have worked on, I have never been able to resolve the EVAP issues completely. So full disclaimer I don't know anything about those that I could prove. I had a plastic one replaced on both sides of the engine during my N63 service bulletin. Prior to that I tried replacing one myself, and I am told that I broke it, and so they did it again. They are plastic, and get brittle with time and heat, so they crack and then its a disaster. Those are a tough DIY, so I wouldn't recommend it unless you are very skilled and experienced. The reason is that connect to the block down low where the intake tract is and there is very little access on the side of the engine. The frame rail is there, and its a PITA. The other two ends connect up top, but access for the rear one requires quite a bit of stuff on the top removed, like turbo heat shields, etc.

If they are actually busted, then they need doing. No way around it. See if you can get the techs to show you with a pic or evidence that they need doing. If you just had the valve stem seals done and they checked everything before that work, its very suspect to me that they didn't in fact break or disturb those items during that work, which is now causing your issues.
Thanks for the detailed info, fireroasted - much appreciated! Will keep this thread posted on what course of action I take.
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  #24  
Old 04-20-2016, 12:36 AM
slowassM3 slowassM3 is offline
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Location: Chicago
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Posts: 51
Mein Auto: X5 50i
Is this leak covered by CPO warranty?
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  #25  
Old 04-21-2016, 04:35 PM
bmwx5er's Avatar
bmwx5er bmwx5er is offline
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Location: Seattle
 
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Posts: 703
Mein Auto: '12 X5 50i, '16 m235 xi
Quote:
Originally Posted by slowassM3 View Post
Is this leak covered by CPO warranty?
No, it's not (per my SA). CPO does not cover rubber hoses, unfortunately. Apparently, no extended warranty (BMW or otherwise) that my SA is aware of covers rubber hoses.
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