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  #1  
Old 06-11-2020, 10:47 AM
Rmee4life Rmee4life is offline
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Drivers Door/ LOCKED OUT

This is gonna be a LONG post as I am going to try to fully explain the history and conditions.
2004 BMW X5/with sport package (All the whistles and bells). To start I DO HAVE Foxwell NT510 Elite scan tool. I am quite mechanically inclined, retired Army 23 years as first a heavy diesel mechanic (M-1 Abrams Tank mechanic, then supervisor). The car had a million problems (wife HAD to have this car). Car sat with completely dead battery for months (Has new battery now). Connected scan tool to read ALL the codes. Service Engine light was on and ALSO was in TRANS FAIL SAFE MODE. Scan tool pointed me towards MAF Sensor and TRANS CODE was 92-TORQUE CONVERTER. Installed new MAF sensor and cleared codes with scan tool and lo and behold Service Engine light is out and TRANS FAIL SAFE is gone. RUNS AND SHIFTS LIKE A DREAM NOW!

DRIVERS DOOR ISSUE- Key FOB battery was dead, opened up FOB and soldered in a new rechargeable Panasonic battery and reprogrammed FOB. All 3 doors and rear hatch work like a charm EXCEPT DRIVERS DOOR! Drivers door would not work with FOB, but WOULD OPEN with inside central door button and physically putting key in lock. (By the way key lock cylinder was also messed up and had to put rebuild kit into lock cylinder). When using key in lock car would lock and set alarm and unlock and deactivate alarm and door would open. After doing a lot of reading about it I replaced drivers door lock actuator (wasnít genuine BMW actuator it was a Dorman actuator through E-EURO parts. I must mention while I had drivers door panel off I replaced inside door handle carrier as cable was close to being fully stretched. SO ALL PARTS IN DRIVERS DOOR ARE NEW to include key cylinder lock rebuild kit! Had a fault code with scanner that said=Central Locking System, Drivers Door Interrupted! Old actuator was making NO sounds or doing anything. Replaced the actuator and it made sounds like it was working, so I installed into door. It continues to make sounds like itís working and no more fault codes after installation HOWEVER the knob lever that comes from actuator up through door panel that goes up and down when locking and unlocking DOESNT move at all! Door WILL lock with FOB and inside button and key lock but once locked will NOT unlock. Canít even get out using inside door handle. Locked in. After much trying things Iíve found that circuit goes through Master Window switch as if that is not plugged in when testing actuator. I know the old actuator was indeed bad as it made NO sounds, the new one does however door lock knob from actuator does not move. At least with OLD actuator I could lock and unlocK door with key in cylinder. It has gotten worse with new actuator. Canít do anything now!

QUESTION= If I plug new actuator into passenger side to test (since I know all is good there) will it operate or is actuator and/or passenger wiring circuit different? I know the plug is the same and it will plug in but is circuit different? Trying to find out if I was sent a bad actuator or something else is bad ie. Master Window Switch circuit.

As of now after running scan tool I am down to only 2 fault codes (woohoo). 1=AUX WATER PUMP, for heater and 2=VTG, Transfer Case oil worn

Any thoughts or ideas would be greatly appreciated and any thoughts well received

Sorry for the long post but was fully trying to explain conditions
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  #2  
Old 06-11-2020, 10:56 AM
andrewwynn andrewwynn is offline
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Mein Auto: '01 E53 X5 Black/Black
there are two separate motors in the actuator one for primary one for secondary lock. It sounds like only the secondary lock motor is working.

As you realized the actuator goes through the window switch, I would open that up and look for corrosion itís pretty common

The key when turned 90į will disable both primary and secondary locks so if the button doesnít pop up with the key something is wrong with the actuator.

Itís not uncommon for a cable to be misaligned where it doesnít release all the way and disengages the handles so thereís that.

I would open up the door disconnect the two handle cables and try to actuate the lock mechanism manually to confirm or deny its function.

Once thatís done, try the electronics and see if double lock and primary lock work (when double locked you canít unlatch from inside). Use key fog or a helper to lock the door. If using fob and inside press lock twice to disable motion alarm


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Old 06-11-2020, 11:05 AM
Rmee4life Rmee4life is offline
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Drivers door

If I plug the new one into passenger side door if it was good would it work?
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  #4  
Old 06-11-2020, 11:08 AM
Rmee4life Rmee4life is offline
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That would tell me that actuator was good and problem lies elsewhere
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Old 06-11-2020, 11:16 AM
andrewwynn andrewwynn is offline
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you can likely determine that without removing the actuator.

I have a strong feeling it would be ok to test the driver actuator in the passenger door it likely would even be recognized as the driver actuator. I would be very surprised if they have a separate wiring loom for RHD LHD.

You may have to move the drivers window switch over which clouds the results


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Old 06-11-2020, 11:24 AM
Rmee4life Rmee4life is offline
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Here is a pic of the old one. Is there a way to open and test?
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Old 06-11-2020, 11:32 AM
andrewwynn andrewwynn is offline
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https://xoutpost.com/bmw-sav-forums/...or-repair.html
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Old 06-11-2020, 11:48 AM
Rmee4life Rmee4life is offline
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Mein Auto:
Can you elaborate on testing without pulling the actuator out, what do you mean by the door disconnect cables

Last edited by Rmee4life; 06-11-2020 at 11:50 AM.
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Old 06-11-2020, 01:16 PM
andrewwynn andrewwynn is offline
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Mein Auto: '01 E53 X5 Black/Black
Drivers Door/ LOCKED OUT

The actuator can malfunction if the cables are not releasing all the way so disconnect the cables from the actuator. and you have to pull the levers with your finger to test if itís working.

Watch all my videos on the iCloud album. They show exactly where you have to pull on the actuator to release the latch.
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