Relocated to Florida - best advice to keep X1 running cool - Bimmerfest - BMW Forums



Go Back   Bimmerfest - BMW Forums > BMW Model Discussions > X Series > X1 E84 (2011 - 2015)

X1 E84 (2011 - 2015)
First generation BMW X1 availbe as a X1 28i with either sDrive (RWD) or xDrive (AWD) or the US exclusive I6 N55 powered X1 35i xDrive.

Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
  #1  
Old 01-16-2017, 08:00 AM
palpullero palpullero is offline
Registered User
Location: FL
 
Join Date: Mar 2015
Posts: 48
Mein Auto: X1 35i xLine
Relocated to Florida - best advice to keep X1 running cool

I just moved to central Florida and it can get hot here (not as bad as Arizona though). What do you recommend I do to my 2013 35i (N55 engine) X1 to keep her running cool even under stop-and-go traffic and high temperatures? I think I can do oil changes more often to keep the oil fresher, and also thinking of taking her to the dealer to do a coolant flush (she was 26,700 miles). What additives and other services can I do to keep her cool? Thanks.

Last edited by palpullero; 01-17-2017 at 11:27 AM.
Reply With Quote
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
  #2  
Old 01-16-2017, 09:35 AM
wunderkind wunderkind is offline
Officially Welcomed to the 'Fest
Location: canada
 
Join Date: Nov 2016
Posts: 179
Mein Auto: 330ci, MZ3, X1, 330i
upgrade the intercooler and radiator fans.
Reply With Quote
  #3  
Old 01-16-2017, 04:53 PM
stonex1's Avatar
stonex1 stonex1 is offline
Officially Welcomed to the 'Fest
Location: BC, Canada
 
Join Date: Oct 2012
Posts: 1,399
Mein Auto: 13' X1 35i
I don't think you need to do much, or at least anything out of the ordinary.
Keep an eye on your coolant level, top off with distilled water if it gets slightly low.
It's rated long life coolant, so flush at 60,000 - 100,000 miles.
I would change your engine oil and air filter yearly.
Change the brake fluid every 2nd oil change.
Always run premium fuel.
__________________
2013 X1
MinGrey,Xenon,HK,PwrSeats,Sirius,XLine,Nav
Reply With Quote
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
  #4  
Old 01-16-2017, 04:57 PM
palpullero palpullero is offline
Registered User
Location: FL
 
Join Date: Mar 2015
Posts: 48
Mein Auto: X1 35i xLine
Thank you guys for the advice. How do you feel about using additives like Red Line's Water Wetter and such?
Reply With Quote
  #5  
Old 01-16-2017, 05:46 PM
stonex1's Avatar
stonex1 stonex1 is offline
Officially Welcomed to the 'Fest
Location: BC, Canada
 
Join Date: Oct 2012
Posts: 1,399
Mein Auto: 13' X1 35i
Quote:
Originally Posted by palpullero View Post
Thank you guys for the advice. How do you feel about using additives like Red Line's Water Wetter and such?
I'm not an additives guy, seems too risky to put anything in an engine that isn't listed
in the manual.
You have the N55, which has the oil temp gauge. I won't worry about it, there are so many computers and sensors on your X1 that it will shut down before high temp does any damage.
__________________
2013 X1
MinGrey,Xenon,HK,PwrSeats,Sirius,XLine,Nav
Reply With Quote
  #6  
Old 01-16-2017, 06:15 PM
mike2222 mike2222 is offline
Registered User
Location: florida
 
Join Date: Dec 2016
Posts: 10
Mein Auto: x1, e84
I live here too. Outside air temps never get anywhere near engine temps. You don't have to do anything.
Reply With Quote
  #7  
Old 01-17-2017, 12:32 AM
0w40X1 0w40X1 is offline
Officially Welcomed to the 'Fest
Location: Texas
 
Join Date: Jul 2013
Posts: 500
Mein Auto: 2014 X1 s28i Msport
My x1 s28i runs very cool while idling at 193 deg f, and only uses 1/4 gallon/hour of gas.

I'm not sure about the n55 engine, but running Eco-Pro runs up temp.

It's not like most other cars that just get hotter from heat soak; BMW makes the engine get hotter under light use conditions.

I can drive hard at track, and temp hits about 109, but drive at 60mph on cool day with no A/C, and it'll force engine to get to 134 deg.
Reply With Quote
  #8  
Old 01-17-2017, 12:36 AM
0w40X1 0w40X1 is offline
Officially Welcomed to the 'Fest
Location: Texas
 
Join Date: Jul 2013
Posts: 500
Mein Auto: 2014 X1 s28i Msport
I never could find ATF temp, but an extra 18,000 btu tube cooler on ATF fluid could help you lower temps somewhat if you're worried.

Anyone know how to get temps out of the transmissions from OBDII?
Reply With Quote
  #9  
Old 01-17-2017, 06:48 AM
Vidgamer Vidgamer is offline
Officially Welcomed to the 'Fest
Location: Orlando
 
Join Date: Jan 2017
Posts: 144
Mein Auto: X1 sDrive28i
Quote:
Originally Posted by mike2222 View Post
I live here too. Outside air temps never get anywhere near engine temps. You don't have to do anything.
This is kind of my thinking. I've lived in Florida and Georgia and haven't done anything particularly special in that regard to my cars. If there's something weird about BMWs, then I need to know (!), but otherwise.... Running on the track may be something altogether different.

I know that a lot of cars will overheat if idling a long time with the A/C on, for example, but that's kind of an atypical use.

As this is my first BMW, I'm still trying to learn the idiosyncrasies, but unless I hear otherwise, I'm just going to stick with the manual.
Reply With Quote
  #10  
Old 01-17-2017, 07:33 AM
0w40X1 0w40X1 is offline
Officially Welcomed to the 'Fest
Location: Texas
 
Join Date: Jul 2013
Posts: 500
Mein Auto: 2014 X1 s28i Msport
My X1 N20 s28i runs at 193 deg f water temp for hours with A/C, and uses about .4 gallons per/hr.

That's a lot cooler than driving around with it 215 to 234 deg, and underhood isn't much higher either.

I wait for wife to shop, and sometimes it's over 80 deg outside, and with black seats and dash car can be an oven.

Good thing I have canopy at apartment, since sun is quite hot and damaging out here in the Texas desert.
Reply With Quote
  #11  
Old 01-17-2017, 07:37 AM
vstolpner vstolpner is offline
Northern BMW Fan
Location: Vancouver, BC
 
Join Date: Sep 2015
Posts: 595
Mein Auto: 2013 BMW X1 xdrive28i
If you have a Bluetooth OBD adapter and app like Torque then you should be able to get most of the temps. I'm just not sure if that will include the transmission.

Alternatively there's Carly for BMW but that needs specialized adapter and isn't exactly cheap. Plus I'm not sure whether transmission temps are included there.
Reply With Quote
  #12  
Old 01-17-2017, 11:25 AM
wunderkind wunderkind is offline
Officially Welcomed to the 'Fest
Location: canada
 
Join Date: Nov 2016
Posts: 179
Mein Auto: 330ci, MZ3, X1, 330i
The biggest problem with going slow or in stop 'n go traffic is heat soak. Your intercooler is not able to exchange hot air for cooler air. In that sense the ECU will compensate for it. I remember older WRX STi has water squirters on their TMICs.
I gotta look up the X1's tech docs but I remember it has an oil cooler as well. These are all passive heat exchangers apart from the radiator. So to keep cool.... drive fast.
IIRC based on Torque app, the X1 has a range of 600-700F for EGT. That's a cool ~200F lower than my weekender RX8.

Using 91oct helps as well.
Reply With Quote
  #13  
Old 01-17-2017, 11:27 AM
Autoputzer Autoputzer is offline
Officially Welcomed to the 'Fest
Location: NW Floriduh
 
Join Date: Mar 2014
Posts: 8,654
Mein Auto: 2014 535i + 2018 X3 30i
Modern automotive cooling and air conditioning systems are a lot better than they were 20 or 30 years ago. Electric fans, and electric water pumps on BMW's mean the cooling system components car run as fast as they need to, not only just as fast as the engine is running. Keep an eye on the coolant level, used a 50%/50% mix to maintain the heat transfer characteristics (anti-freeze is a lousy coolant), and use distilled water to minimize deposits building up in the cooling system. BMW sells coolant in one quart containers. My dealer gave me a bottle under "free maintenance."

The biggest threat to your X1 in Floriduh is going to be sunlight damage. It will be slow, and by time you notice it would be too late.

Dark color paint doesn't hold up here under full sun exposure, even if regularly waxed. I generally keep my cars ten years or more. So I buy white cars, as do a lot of people in Florida, even Sonny Crockett.

If you're retired and haven't secured a place to live yet, find a place with shaded parking.

Wax the bumpers, mirrors, and horizontal surfaces twice or three times as often as the vertical surfaces. The sides, fronts and backs of the car are exposed to sunlight only half the time, and at high incidence angles, therefore low sunlight intensity, in the middle of the day. The horizontal surfaces get the full blast of sunlight in the middle of the day, and some exposure almost the entire day. The bumpers and sometimes painted plastic trim (e.g. fender flares on some vehicles) are painted with flexible and less durable paint. Finally, the front bumper, hood, mirrors, and front of the roof get a lot of bug splats, and the bug juices are highly acidic and will damage your paint.

Keep the unpainted plastic and rubber exterior parts treated with Armor-All. I do mine every two months or sooner.

Keep the sidewalls of tires treated with Meguiar's Endurance or a similar product. I've had untreated sidewalls rot out in less than three years.

If you have to park the car outside on a regular basis, rotate the orientation of the car to even out the sunlight damage.

Cover the steering wheel with a towel when the car is parked in sunlight, and cover the entire steering wheel. Leather doesn't hold up well in sunlight. Ask any bald cow. The sunlight coming through the door window is more intense (since the windshield is laminated and the inner layer acts as a UV blocker) than that coming through the windshield.

Similarly, it can't hurt to cover the leather front seats with even bigger towels. Cloth seats, and to a lesser vinyl seats, would also benefit from protection from sunlight.

Treat the leather with a moisturizer such as Mother's Leather Conditioner.

On sedans and coupe's parked in sunlight for long periods of time, cover the top of the back seat and the area between the back seat and the back window. I've found the bests way to do this is three pieces of poster board, with one side cut to fit the coutour back window if necessary. This is not a problem with SUV's, especially ones with deeply tinted glass.

There are other Floriduh-specific threats to vehicles:

Salt air. If you leave near the coast, rock nicks in the paint will start to rust almost immediately. Learn how to properly apply touch-up paint and apply it as soon as you see a new rock nick.
Well water used for landscaping irrigation. It's used a lot down here, and contains both iron and sulfur. The iron will embed in your paint over time, and the sulfur will turn to sulfuric acid and etch the paint. I carry two empty one-gallon water jugs with me. If my car gets doused by well water, I fill the jugs with tap water and rinse the car off. With two trips (four gallons) I can get the car completely rinsed off.

Sea birds. If you live immediately near the coast, your car will be pelted with sea bird (gulls and turns) crap. Also, the smarter birds have learned to crack clams open by carrying them up above pavement and dropping them. A car's hood will crack open a clam almost as good as asphalt or concrete.

Bugs. As previously mentioned, bug juice will eat through the paint if left on there long. Bug impact will happen more at higher speeds, at night, and near wilderness areas. If the car has a fresh coat of wax, you can clean the fresh bug splats off with a stream of distilled water from a household spray bottle. You don't want to wipe the splats off. Wiping a dirty paint surface will scratch it. Using distilled water will prevent spotting. I carry a spray bottle of distilled water when I'm on road trips, as part of my window washing kit. (After cleaning the glass with Invisible Glass, I rinse them with distilled water and dry them with a squeegee.)

Spring breakers and Alabama Tourist White Trash. Vandalism.

Old people. Accidental collisions.

Alligators.

Hurricanes. The specific threats are flooding from storm surges and rainfall runoff, and wind damage from flying debris. Hurricanes can also spawn tornados.

Cramped parking spaces. This is a problem is beach areas where real estate is at a premium. Hawaii has really bad parking for the same reason.

Welcome to Floriduh!
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	sonny  crockett & ferrari's (one real, one fake).jpg
Views:	45
Size:	260.7 KB
ID:	587176   Click image for larger version

Name:	protecting back window upholstry & back seat.jpg
Views:	52
Size:	62.8 KB
ID:	587177   Click image for larger version

Name:	alabama tourist white trash.jpg
Views:	56
Size:	97.6 KB
ID:	587178  

Last edited by Autoputzer; 01-17-2017 at 01:28 PM.
Reply With Quote
  #14  
Old 01-17-2017, 11:29 AM
palpullero palpullero is offline
Registered User
Location: FL
 
Join Date: Mar 2015
Posts: 48
Mein Auto: X1 35i xLine
Quote:
Originally Posted by wunderkind View Post
The biggest problem with going slow or in stop 'n go traffic is heat soak. Your intercooler is not able to exchange hot air for cooler air. In that sense the ECU will compensate for it. I remember older WRX STi has water squirters on their TMICs.
I gotta look up the X1's tech docs but I remember it has an oil cooler as well. These are all passive heat exchangers apart from the radiator. So to keep cool.... drive fast.
IIRC based on Torque app, the X1 has a range of 600-700F for EGT. That's a cool ~200F lower than my weekender RX8.

Using 91oct helps as well.
+1 on the WRX STi intercooler; I got one parked in my garage Also, in Florida it seems we have got 93 octane, so I'm good there (now, which gas station has the best 93 octane is the question).
Reply With Quote
  #15  
Old 01-17-2017, 11:50 AM
wunderkind wunderkind is offline
Officially Welcomed to the 'Fest
Location: canada
 
Join Date: Nov 2016
Posts: 179
Mein Auto: 330ci, MZ3, X1, 330i
Quote:
Originally Posted by palpullero View Post
+1 on the WRX STi intercooler; I got one parked in my garage Also, in Florida it seems we have got 93 octane, so I'm good there (now, which gas station has the best 93 octane is the question).
Well in that case, any precaution that applies to your Scooby applies to the X1. STi is alot more highly strung than X1.

BMW recommends http://www.toptiergas.com/
Reply With Quote
  #16  
Old 01-17-2017, 01:32 PM
mingle27 mingle27 is offline
Registered User
 
Join Date: Nov 2016
Posts: 10
Mein Auto:
U
Reply With Quote
  #17  
Old 01-17-2017, 04:59 PM
0w40X1 0w40X1 is offline
Officially Welcomed to the 'Fest
Location: Texas
 
Join Date: Jul 2013
Posts: 500
Mein Auto: 2014 X1 s28i Msport
Wunderkind,

I have a lightly used 07 RX8, also.

Now that's a car that gets hot; I've seen nearly 190deg f intake temps from idling around.

It'll burn hand just to touch front fenders, and I don't drive in summer.

By comparison the BMW X1 is cool running until you cruise easy on highway, then, the computer makes it run up to 234 deg.

The second you input gas the temps go back down (water flow I guess) to something normal like 215.
Reply With Quote
  #18  
Old 01-19-2017, 12:43 PM
MRCW MRCW is offline
Officially Welcomed to the 'Fest
Location: Central Florida
 
Join Date: Nov 2009
Posts: 746
Mein Auto: Cars and trucks and boats
Quote:
Originally Posted by mike2222 View Post
I live here too. Outside air temps never get anywhere near engine temps. You don't have to do anything.
This...nothing
Reply With Quote
Reply

See More Related BMW Stories


Forum Navigation
Go Back   Bimmerfest - BMW Forums > BMW Model Discussions > X Series > X1 E84 (2011 - 2015)
Today's Posts Search
Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On



Forum Jump


All times are GMT -7. The time now is 02:18 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8
Copyright ©2000 - 2019, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
vBulletin Security provided by vBSecurity v2.2.2 (Pro) - vBulletin Mods & Addons Copyright © 2019 DragonByte Technologies Ltd.
© 2001- VerticalScope Inc. All rights reserved.