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E36 (1991 - 1999)
The E36 chassis 3-Series BMW was a huge hit among driving enthusiasts from the first moment the car hit the pavement. The E36 won numerous awards over the years it was produced and is still a favorite of many BMW enthusiasts to this day! -- View the E36 Wiki

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  #3101  
Old 01-10-2016, 11:36 PM
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Originally Posted by drivinfaster View Post
color me cofused, chad, but other than the odo and speedo being "off" due to larger tires, what would regearing the diffs provide ??

not real familiar with off road stuffs, but thought larger tires were "better"...
Bigger overall diameter is better as it gets your axles and diffs farther from obstacles. Also, bigger sidewalls are better, as they provide more ability for the tires to conform the terrain and obstacles when aired down. But they extra weight and diameter of that combination causes you to lose a ton of power. Shorter gearing gets that power back for on road driving, as well as providing a bit more advantage for climbing over obstacles.


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Originally Posted by EnserioJose View Post
Hey guys! Oh just hanging out here in the snowy midwest. Trying to stay on top of a rusty XJ, an 18 yo e36, a house, 2.6 acres of land, work projects, an upcoming wedding... so typical life, right

How have you two been? Any more Randys added to the baby stable? Any progress on the m shoe front?
Sounds about right.

We had one in May, he's almost 8months now. No more Randys shall henceforth be added to the stable. General craziness both around the house and at work.


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Ok...this is getting ridiculous. Someone come buy a few of these things.


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  #3102  
Old 01-11-2016, 03:06 AM
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  #3103  
Old 01-11-2016, 03:25 PM
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Just ordered floating hardwood flooring. Anyone have tips for install? I'm planning on doing some YouTube searches.
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  #3104  
Old 01-11-2016, 05:00 PM
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matt,

duct tape the padding together

watch your orientation in regard to sunlight (expansion concerns) so plan accordingly if there are large windows/sunlight coming through to the flooring,

don't run too tight to the wall but pack your joints tightly together (get the tool for flooring as well, it's about 10 bucks or so iirc) and watch your ends. use a scrap piece to run interference with the tool as to not damage the joints.

plan your layout. watch for pipes through the floor (if radiant heaters) and whenever possible, stagger the seams as to not run "square" with each other.

sorta like this...



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as opposed to this...


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measure thrice, cut once.


do you have a compound mitre saw?? a jigsaw and hole saw bits would probably be beneficial as well. and i liked to use scrap pieces of cardboard for edges around doors, cabinets, and such to get an idea as to how the cuts will go.

chisels, too.

all sorts of tips and tricks regarding the trim, as well. notching the back for curves and such.

get some scrap lumber, like 1x3's, and cheapy 1/4 round to get an idea of what cuts are necessary if you aren't sure. it's much cheaper to cut a scrap piece than the higher end trim pieces, even with some relatively inexpensive composite pieces.

also pay attention to the visible finished ends. on composite type matertials a dull blade will rip the finish.

make sure all the peaks, points, burrs, and things that would pop up from the floor are made flush. depending on the subfloor you may need to use leveler (several thin layers are better than 1 heavy application), and make sure the floor itself is sound. fix any wiggles, bounces, and squeaks prior to laying the floor down.


there's probably lots more, but this and the vids will sorta give you a good direction to go.

if you have a mud room that will wind up getting a lot of traffic, i would suggest doing that room first. it's smaller, is supposed to get dirty, and will give you a pretty good taste for the larger scale rooms that need to be prettier.



good luck with it!!





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  #3105  
Old 01-11-2016, 11:53 PM
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  #3106  
Old 01-12-2016, 05:56 AM
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Thanks DF! I'll update with pictures, will probably start next weekend.

Also, dropped the E30 off at Monroe Muffler for a new exhauat, yikes. The current exhaust is getting louder by the day, the muffler is very rusted.

Oem replacement is too expensive so well see how they do.
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  #3107  
Old 01-12-2016, 06:35 AM
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Oh God... OH GOD...

http://washingtondc.craigslist.org/n...396927506.html
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  #3108  
Old 01-12-2016, 06:47 AM
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Molested gains a new meaning with that ^
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  #3109  
Old 01-12-2016, 07:45 AM
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Molested gains a new meaning with that ^
Meh. That's not even close to molested. It's just lambo doors and a cheap stereo deck. It would take half a day to go back to stock with no lasting effects.
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Ok...this is getting ridiculous. Someone come buy a few of these things.


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  #3110  
Old 01-12-2016, 08:01 AM
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Molested gains a new meaning with that ^
HAHAHA! My thoughts exactly!!

By the way, I found an ad on Facebook East Coast Classifieds for what I was talking about with my E39:





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  #3111  
Old 01-12-2016, 09:57 AM
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Originally Posted by E36 Phantom View Post
Meh. That's not even close to molested. It's just lambo doors and a cheap stereo deck. It would take half a day to go back to stock with no lasting effects.
^This^

That's not anywhere close to "Head Twista" molestation.

Condition of the SMG pump and whether or not it had any of the rod bearing recalls done would be far more concern to me.
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  #3112  
Old 01-12-2016, 10:12 AM
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True,...regular maintenance and repair bills are king....but over the years of my buying experience I've been convinced that the cared ones are usually nearest to stock.

On the subject of 'headtwista 's' it would be funny to see a few examples posted for a good laugh...

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  #3113  
Old 01-12-2016, 12:26 PM
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FINALLY
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Found the M3 struts I needed for the Koni inserts, been looking for months. I found a couple nearby but the sellers wanted too much, iirc 200 or more. One place in TX had them for $150 shipped, decided to wait and it paid off.

These were the parts I needed picked up from MD. A friend of mine went there yesterday and picked them up for me on his way back. I paid $75 for these.

I'm getting close to doing a rear bushings and will likely get the Koni STR.T for the rear as well, one shock is showing signs of a small leak. For the front I'll do FCAB and these, should make a nice improvement.
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  #3114  
Old 01-12-2016, 12:47 PM
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I've got a pair of STR.T rear shocks for an e36. One is NIB, the other has a couple thousand miles on it.
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That presenter is getting waaay too worked up over a tarted up VW Golf.

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  #3115  
Old 01-12-2016, 01:07 PM
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Whatve you guys done with your E36 audio? I double din would be cool, but really spendy. A pair of speaker in my front door are rattling. I want crisp bass and clear audio

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  #3116  
Old 01-12-2016, 03:59 PM
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Hey guys looking for some advice I'm at an "Impasse". The m3 body I have is officially garbage passenger side rocker is shot most of the section under the rockers is rusted out near the jack pads as well as rust in the floor boards. I rent from a body shop owner so,I'm sure I could get the rust repaired but, my guess is the bill would be 2-5k for a legit repair without paint due to unibody structure and wonderful jack point repair. So the question....do I just scrap the shell and try to find a caged/roller e36 shell? Or, do I sell off the 8k I have in bolt on parts and pickup a muscle car like a 66 chevelle as a project. Something like the one below. Sorry for the rant..I'm just losing motivation and kinda pissed/upset that I paid a good chunk of change for something that I pretty much have to part out and start over.Click image for larger version

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  #3117  
Old 01-12-2016, 04:11 PM
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The NEWEST official E36 OT Thread!!

Quote:
Originally Posted by LukasW View Post
Whatve you guys done with your E36 audio? I double din would be cool, but really spendy. A pair of speaker in my front door are rattling. I want crisp bass and clear audio

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Tapatalk

I put a Sony head unit when I got my car since it came with no radio. At the time the rear speakers were blown and had a Infinity Basslink subwoofer already installed.

Then I replaced the front and rear speakers with Kicker speakers, liked the improvement. Door speakers are still good. I wanted to go OEM on the head unit so I found a CD43 unit, which many report is an upgrade over the stock units C33 and C43.

I don't have a musician's ear but sound is good. And since the car already had a Subwoofer on the back it sounds even better.

Finding a CD43 head unit might be as expensive as a double din unit, if you go with an aftermarket unit get one that has red backlight on the buttons so it blends in. Little hint, the BMW and Rover versions of the CD43 are both the same just different logo on the faceplate.

This is the before
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Sony head unit at night
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And this is now
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CD43 at night
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Dwonda went with different brand for speakers (bsw I believe) but I think same head unit as me and he loved it, apart from an iPod integration unit I don't know what else he did.
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  #3118  
Old 01-12-2016, 04:32 PM
olivers_bmw olivers_bmw is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bimmer claus View Post
Hey guys looking for some advice I'm at an "Impasse". The m3 body I have is officially garbage passenger side rocker is shot most of the section under the rockers is rusted out near the jack pads as well as rust in the floor boards. I rent from a body shop owner so,I'm sure I could get the rust repaired but, my guess is the bill would be 2-5k for a legit repair without paint due to unibody structure and wonderful jack point repair. So the question....do I just scrap the shell and try to find a caged/roller e36 shell? Or, do I sell off the 8k I have in bolt on parts and pickup a muscle car like a 66 chevelle as a project. Something like the one below. Sorry for the rant..I'm just losing motivation and kinda pissed/upset that I paid a good chunk of change for something that I pretty much have to part out and start over.Attachment 545904
We just scraped/shelled a 97 e36 for the same reasons, rocker/frame rust. Drivetrain has been pulled and ready for the solid donor car. 92 e36 sedan surface rust that was an automatic is up next. Engine out and suspension going into 94 vert and will have another shell ready for its next life.

Depends on finding a "deal" on a muscle car shell, good ones can be expensive.

Last edited by olivers_bmw; 01-12-2016 at 04:35 PM.
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  #3119  
Old 01-12-2016, 04:40 PM
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bimmer claus bimmer claus is offline
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Originally Posted by olivers_bmw View Post
We just scraped/shelled a 97 e36 for the same reasons, rocker/frame rust. Drivetrain has been pulled and ready for the solid donor car. 92 e36 sedan surface rust that was an automatic is up next. Engine out and suspension going into 94 vert and will have another shell ready for its next life.

Depends on finding a "deal" on a muscle car shell, good ones can be expensive.

How much was the donor car you picked up. Thanks for the opinion!
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  #3120  
Old 01-12-2016, 05:36 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bimmer claus View Post
Hey guys looking for some advice I'm at an "Impasse". The m3 body I have is officially garbage passenger side rocker is shot most of the section under the rockers is rusted out near the jack pads as well as rust in the floor boards. I rent from a body shop owner so,I'm sure I could get the rust repaired but, my guess is the bill would be 2-5k for a legit repair without paint due to unibody structure and wonderful jack point repair. So the question....do I just scrap the shell and try to find a caged/roller e36 shell? Or, do I sell off the 8k I have in bolt on parts and pickup a muscle car like a 66 chevelle as a project. Something like the one below. Sorry for the rant..I'm just losing motivation and kinda pissed/upset that I paid a good chunk of change for something that I pretty much have to part out and start over.Attachment 545904
I remember when you got that car and how clean it appeared to be. Sucks it turned out to be a rust bucket . If you are tried of dealing with rust, an old muscle is a terrible idea. I think you should take some time and find a real rust free shell and swap everything over to that. Also you should scrap off the old under coating and rust prof the fcuk out of the new shell. You will be a lot happier with your e36 when you have one that is rust free and you know it is going to stay rust free.
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  #3121  
Old 01-12-2016, 05:41 PM
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bimmer claus bimmer claus is offline
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Originally Posted by southpark11235 View Post
I remember when you got that car and how clean it appeared to be. Sucks it turned out to be a rust bucket . If you are tried of dealing with rust, an old muscle is a terrible idea. I think you should take some time and find a real rust free shell and swap everything over to that. Also you should scrap off the old under coating and rust prof the fcuk out of the new shell. You will be a lot happier with your e36 when you have one that is rust free and you know it is going to stay rust free.

It was clean until I started poking around haha. I'll just see if I can pick up a caged shell or just a plain roller at some point here. Good news is the motor/tranny are already pulled out of the rust bucket so, I'll just finish stripping her down sell the motor and continue with the s54 e36 direction. Thanks for the input! Just what I needed to here.
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  #3122  
Old 01-13-2016, 10:21 AM
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Man, sucks about the rust. I once bought an E36 in similar condition, while potentially hungover or still feeling the effects of the night before. Joey was there. It was awful. Thankfully, I was able to put it back on Craigslist and get my money back after a few days. I ran the VIN last year and it's somehow still alive and registered in Tennessee now.

On a more positive note, I bought a truck last night!

2011 FX4 with the Coyote 5.0 V8, 4x4, and 47k miles. Has the "Max Tow" package and is rated at 9,300 lbs. The bed is already spray-lined and I want to swap out the current bed cover for one that can lock. Bonus tow-ability points include the 3.73 rear end, electronically locking rear diff, built-in brake controller, "productivity screen" between the gauges to track trailer mileage and store up to 10 different trailer profiles, and the extended range 36 gallon fuel tank (vs. stock 26 gallon).





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  #3123  
Old 01-13-2016, 10:43 AM
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hnaz hnaz is offline
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Originally Posted by Brake_L8 View Post
Man, sucks about the rust. I once bought an E36 in similar condition, while potentially hungover or still feeling the effects of the night before. Joey was there. It was awful. Thankfully, I was able to put it back on Craigslist and get my money back after a few days. I ran the VIN last year and it's somehow still alive and registered in Tennessee now.

On a more positive note, I bought a truck last night!

2011 FX4 with the Coyote 5.0 V8, 4x4, and 47k miles. Has the "Max Tow" package and is rated at 9,300 lbs. The bed is already spray-lined and I want to swap out the current bed cover for one that can lock. Bonus tow-ability points include the 3.73 rear end, electronically locking rear diff, built-in brake controller, "productivity screen" between the gauges to track trailer mileage and store up to 10 different trailer profiles, and the extended range 36 gallon fuel tank (vs. stock 26 gallon).





Holy cow! That truck is amazing!!!
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  #3124  
Old 01-13-2016, 10:51 AM
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hnaz hnaz is offline
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How much was the donor car you picked up. Thanks for the opinion!
Dirt cheap because of the rust. It really was THAT bad. Only thing usable was the drivetrain and engine. The White Car is going to be dismantled and suspension parts transferred to Frank's (olivers bmw) convertible.

The White Car would be a good rent-a-race shell to setup, but it is an autotragic. At least the engine is good. Tranny is junk aka coffee table/rat trap.
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  #3125  
Old 01-13-2016, 02:40 PM
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Monroe Muffler wanted over $500 to replace the oem rear muffler on yhe e30. They wanted almost $400 to do a custom rear muffler. [Trying to save money]

So needless to say I ordered an OEM rear muffler for $210 with shipping and will put it on myself.

If I had a lift I would have just built the exhaust myself.
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