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X5 E70 (2007 - 2013)
E70 BMW X5 produced between 2007 and 2013. Discuss the E70 X5 with other BMW owners here.

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  #1  
Old 07-12-2019, 08:28 PM
OLM OLM is offline
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2007 E70 3.0si v6 won't shift out of park

So this car had just about every leak known for this model. Oil got onto the belt and it went into the engine. The engine ended up taking more than half the belt and it was decided that a new engine would be faster and cheaper in the end.

Fast forward a little - newer engine with 130,000km which came with complete wire harness. We did the valve cover gasket, oil pan gasket and the oil cooler gasket. No issues with the swap, everything went back ok. All new fluids - engine oil, coolant, power steering, front diff oil and transmission fluid.

New engine doesn't sound as good as I would like but my thoughts are that it may settle down once it has a chance to be driven.

So once everything was reset using ISTA-D, locked the car and allowed it to enter sleep mode - the car's only codes are for two rear light bulbs. It isn't coming up with anything else no matter how long you leave it running. No leaks, everything seems ok.

Now the only issue which has me stumped is with the ability to shift out of park. You place your foot on the break, shift to drive, light on the shifter and indicator on the dash says "D", then it jumps back to park once you take your foot off the break. Double checked that all doors are closed, did every reset ISTA has available. Every cable is correct, no bent pins on the transmission cable end. Trans fluid level is good. Does this for neutral and reverse. Wheels never get a chance to turn.

The car simply won't shift. I drove the car in and onto the lift so the transmission is good. I can turn the drive shaft by hand and the wheels move freely, front and back. I can move the transmission just fine. It doesn't look like the transmission is being told to shift - I just don't know why no codes are not being generated.

I'm leaning towards a problem with the wiring harness as the story is the donor car was parted out due to a bad transmission. I can't get anymore info on it other than that.

Any ideas?
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  #2  
Old 07-13-2019, 06:47 AM
FredoinSF FredoinSF is offline
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You have access to ISTA so any error codes in regards to transmission? Not too familiar with its full capabilities but is there a method to reset the thing?

Found it ironic that you did the engine swap and valve cover gasket and appear to be versed with ISTA and still called it a V6... While VC was off, did it look like oil had been changed somewhat regularly? Just curious on that.
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Old 07-13-2019, 08:39 AM
ard ard is offline
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Check the driver door switch contacts....
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Alignment here: The Definitive Alignment Thread

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OEM is Original Equipment Manufacturer... EITHER the company that made the OE part or.... A part this is identical to the OE part, but is sold by the OEM under their own label


OEM is not what BMW sells


http://www.bimmerzone.com/category/T...ricks_OEM.html

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  #4  
Old 07-13-2019, 07:54 PM
OLM OLM is offline
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When I took off the VC it was loaded with old oil that was so far gone it looked like carbon. I cleaned everything and replaced the VC with a spare.

Right now ISTA isn't showing any codes other than two rear light bulbs. No dash lights, nothing.

I've done every reset there is in ISTA.

I will check the door switch, it appears to be ok as the lights come on and you get the chime if you open the door. I wish this car indicated if a door is open or not.
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Old 07-13-2019, 10:44 PM
ard ard is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OLM View Post
When I took off the VC it was loaded with old oil that was so far gone it looked like carbon. I cleaned everything and replaced the VC with a spare.

Right now ISTA isn't showing any codes other than two rear light bulbs. No dash lights, nothing.

I've done every reset there is in ISTA.

I will check the door switch, it appears to be ok as the lights come on and you get the chime if you open the door. I wish this car indicated if a door is open or not.
that assumes there is a single signal or single channel for 'door open'... I dunno, couldnt find a schematic. PITA

also, try two things...put your seat belt on..AND... keep your foot lightly on the brake pedal. See if that has any impact.
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Alignment here: The Definitive Alignment Thread

OE is Original Equipment aka 'BMW Original Parts' aka 'What you buy at the BMW dealer with a BMW label'

OEM is Original Equipment Manufacturer... EITHER the company that made the OE part or.... A part this is identical to the OE part, but is sold by the OEM under their own label


OEM is not what BMW sells


http://www.bimmerzone.com/category/T...ricks_OEM.html

https://www.turnermotorsport.com/t-OEvsOEM
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  #6  
Old 07-14-2019, 06:20 PM
OLM OLM is offline
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Another long day with no further progress.

I was testing with the alarm and seeing what the car can see. If you lock the car and everything is closed it will beep. I had a newer M3 once that would shift in to drive but the transmission wouldn't respond. Turns out that the hood had to be down. I tried with the hood down and with the hood disconnected. Alarm/locking works fine with the hood disconnected.

Pulled the manual transmission neutral switch and the car can freely be pushed without any issues.

If you press the brake and shift into drive, it will jump back to park after 2-3 seconds even if you have not released the brake. If you release the brake it jumps back right away. Seatbelt and light pressing of the brakes didn't change anything.

I hate the idea of swapping the harness cable but based off of what I can see in the schematics, the shifter has a dedicated line that runs from the shifter to the transmission. The shifter also runs to the DME so it might be possible that when I shift in to drive, the shifter sends a command to the DME which sends info to the dash. It also sends the command down to the transmission which never arrives. The DME will then send a command down the transmission which the trans can respond to as it has it's own data line - DME doesn't report a problem.

I have a sneaking suspicion that the original transmission problem from the donor car has followed the engine into this car.

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  #7  
Old 07-14-2019, 06:36 PM
robnitro robnitro is offline
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I'm not sure but there might be a coding that has to match the trans ecu with the dme. Look into that if you swapped any modules with the engine swap.
Yep it's linked
https://bimmerscan.com/bmw-zf-6hp8hp...swap-matching/

Last edited by robnitro; 07-14-2019 at 07:04 PM.
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Old 07-14-2019, 06:38 PM
BabyUnicornTaco BabyUnicornTaco is offline
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Mein Auto: 2008 X5 4.8i E70 Sport
2007 E70 3.0si v6 won't shift out of park

If you park the X5, lock it and hear the beep when all doors are closed. What happens if you enter through the passenger door, close the door and try to start and shift? Just a random thought/test.


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Old 07-14-2019, 11:09 PM
ard ard is offline
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When you use ISTA to look at the transmission control unit, nothing unusual? Not "no dash lights"...not "no OBD codes"... but anything odd in the trans itself?
__________________
Alignment here: The Definitive Alignment Thread

OE is Original Equipment aka 'BMW Original Parts' aka 'What you buy at the BMW dealer with a BMW label'

OEM is Original Equipment Manufacturer... EITHER the company that made the OE part or.... A part this is identical to the OE part, but is sold by the OEM under their own label


OEM is not what BMW sells


http://www.bimmerzone.com/category/T...ricks_OEM.html

https://www.turnermotorsport.com/t-OEvsOEM
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  #10  
Old 07-15-2019, 07:53 AM
twh twh is online now
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OLM View Post
Another long day with no further progress.

I was testing with the alarm and seeing what the car can see. If you lock the car and everything is closed it will beep. I had a newer M3 once that would shift in to drive but the transmission wouldn't respond. Turns out that the hood had to be down. I tried with the hood down and with the hood disconnected. Alarm/locking works fine with the hood disconnected.

Pulled the manual transmission neutral switch and the car can freely be pushed without any issues.

If you press the brake and shift into drive, it will jump back to park after 2-3 seconds even if you have not released the brake. If you release the brake it jumps back right away. Seatbelt and light pressing of the brakes didn't change anything.

I hate the idea of swapping the harness cable but based off of what I can see in the schematics, the shifter has a dedicated line that runs from the shifter to the transmission. The shifter also runs to the DME so it might be possible that when I shift in to drive, the shifter sends a command to the DME which sends info to the dash. It also sends the command down to the transmission which never arrives. The DME will then send a command down the transmission which the trans can respond to as it has it's own data line - DME doesn't report a problem.

I have a sneaking suspicion that the original transmission problem from the donor car has followed the engine into this car.

The ribbon cable is a common failure. Could be that.

Also, would like to relate to you a failure my wife's X5 had with the gearshift. I could hear clicking noises from inside the center console. After some investigation, I found that the gearshift Reverse interlock button was sticking. You know, that button on the side of the gearshift that you have to push in order to select R. I could see that one side of the button was getting wedged under the the adjacent plastic sometimes when I pushed the button. I pulled the sliver fascia from the front of the gearshift lever and found that the R interlock button hinge was broken. That allowed the R interlock button to get wedged in place and the interlock solenoid would then click more of less continuously (although the cadence of the solenoid action was an irregular rhythm). I don't exactly remember what the P button looks like with the fascia off, but it could be a similar failure. At least, theoretically, it would account for it going back to P.
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  #11  
Old 07-17-2019, 09:23 AM
OLM OLM is offline
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It has been a few long and frustrating days. Using ISTA I went into all the moduels and confirmed that all doors and the hood are closed. I did so by reading the states for them all and walking around the car opening and closing each and seeing the state go from open to closed. While doing this the hood latch broke, add on another few hours of hell to get that sorted out.

I went into the engine and transmission and everything reads as OK. No codes are being tossed for any issues.

I decided to swap the wiring harness as a bad cable between the shifter and transmission could be possible. That was a good 4 hours and had no change.

I'm starting to think there is a problem inside the transmission itself. Maybe the converter isn't sitting perfectly. I'm at a total loss of what to do, so why not spend another 2h to pull the transmission and see what it does.

If it doesn't fix the issue then the car has to go to BMW as it's something over my head.

I just noticed the original V6 comment - I spend most of my time on the N62 v8. With the age of those cars there is no end to the number of 5, 6 and 7's I work on. The N73 v12 is also nice. I didn't even look to see if the N52 was inline or not, it has 6 - it's a V6.
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  #12  
Old 07-17-2019, 05:35 PM
robnitro robnitro is offline
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Did you swap any modules when you did the engine swap? If so see my comment above

If not, maybe your fluid is low... Swapping an engine might have caused a bit to leak out.

Last edited by robnitro; 07-17-2019 at 05:36 PM.
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  #13  
Old 07-19-2019, 01:22 PM
OLM OLM is offline
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No modules were swapped out. Engine was the only change made and that is running fine with no codes.

I removed the shifter and confirmed the cable is good between the shifter and transmission. ISTA shows no problems within the shifter, transmission or the DME.

Does anyone know if the transmission could be the issue? It was a pain to install due to it's size over the E65 RWD version but after some time it did go back. I was able to push the transmission out a few mm and turn both the converter and engine to line up the bolts. No real issues to speak of other than the weight of the damn thing. Could it be something with the converter not being set?

I checked the procedure for the transmission install and it went back exactly as described.
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  #14  
Old 07-21-2019, 11:56 PM
robnitro robnitro is offline
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Ok check your fluid level with engine on in P.
I experienced the same thing but it was expected while filling the trans.
I did my mechatronic seals yesterday. after the initial fill, I started the car and noticed that until the fluid level was correct (it needs a few L more after initial engine off fill ) it would shift to d and go back to P. That's the same behavior you have!
No codes came up either, I was shocked. It's like a fall safe that doesn't get reported...

Run engine in P to fill fluid to proper level.

It's a hex socket to remove the fill plug on the passenger side of the trans near the rear corner.
Do it while the engine is cold, don't worry about slight overfill and going with the convoluted zf fill procedure that's ocd about temperatures. Just do it before the trans gets hot and you'll be good.
As soon as the fluid drips out, put the plug back in quick.

Last edited by robnitro; 07-21-2019 at 11:58 PM.
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Old 07-25-2019, 08:44 PM
OLM OLM is offline
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Before I seen the previous post about fluid, I was up at my local BMW as my 760 is up there after being hit. I asked the master tech what he thought of the issue and he said the same thing, low fluid or tail light malfunction. He said that for the 07/08 years, if you have a light out - no problem. If the computer reads a malfunction in the rear lights it can prevent you from driving as the dme believes that you have no brake lights.

The only code I'm getting is rear light issues. I walk to the back and pull the panel off the rear tailgate lights and water pours out. The entire lift is full of water and all the metal in the lights are simply gone - rotted away. The 3 pin connector is rusted and fused to the light.

I spent 3 days fixing that issue. Seems WDS has two different schematics for the same car. That took me on a wild chase for some time. So with the lights working, no codes at all now - car will not shift out of park.

So it must be low fluid - that makes sense as it only took 2.5L on the refill but it pours out if you try and fill it anymore. I grabbed a water pump and rigged up a system that can push 5L per minute. I jacked up the car only on the drivers side with the back higher than the front. This should allow more fluid and it did. It took an additional 5L of fluid and it poured out 1L by the time I could get the fill plug back. There is no chance it's low now.

Start it up, no codes - won't shift out of park.

All I can do now is pull the transmission and check for something that could be wrong between the flywheel and the transmission itself. I had a hell of a time getting that transmission in, so it has to be something there.
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