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Old 06-24-2020, 11:00 AM
carlson2005 carlson2005 is offline
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Bleeding brakes on 328i

I decided to change the brake fluid on my 328i myself, using the Motive brake bleeder from FCP Euro. Everything worked similar to other cars, except the removal of air seem to be very very slow.

I tested and installed the pressure bleeder with about 10 psi of pressure, and then went to the right rear brake to start. When I first opened the bleeder it seemed like I was getting almost nothing out, but after a few minutes it finally started to bleed fluid with very small bubbles, looking like something from a carbonated drink. That went on for several minutes and then finally stopped and I got clear fluid. The left rear brake worked the same. Then I went to the front brakes, which started out with clear fluid right away with no bubbles.

Is there some type of check valve or restriction in the rear brakes that make them bleed more slowly? My BMW repair manual says to use the BMW scan tool and set it to "Bleeding ABS/DSC" before you start pressure bleeding, but does not explain what that does.

Bruce
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Old 06-25-2020, 11:32 AM
cleaver cleaver is offline
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Don't know about the Motive method, but I had the same experience with the MityVac vacuum bleeder - rears very slow and not a lot of fluid sucked out, but fronts worked much faster. And yes, I flushed in this order: RR, LR, RF, LF. Incidentally, I had the same experience with my 1997 Mercedes E420.
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Old 06-26-2020, 07:52 PM
jparnes1 jparnes1 is offline
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10 psi is too low. You should be 15-20 ad you'll see the fluid move faster.
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Old 06-26-2020, 08:30 PM
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Dave 20T Dave 20T is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by carlson2005 View Post
I decided to change the brake fluid on my 328i myself, using the Motive brake bleeder from FCP Euro. Everything worked similar to other cars, except the removal of air seem to be very very slow.

I tested and installed the pressure bleeder with about 10 psi of pressure, and then went to the right rear brake to start. When I first opened the bleeder it seemed like I was getting almost nothing out, but after a few minutes it finally started to bleed fluid with very small bubbles, looking like something from a carbonated drink. That went on for several minutes and then finally stopped and I got clear fluid. The left rear brake worked the same. Then I went to the front brakes, which started out with clear fluid right away with no bubbles.

Is there some type of check valve or restriction in the rear brakes that make them bleed more slowly? My BMW repair manual says to use the BMW scan tool and set it to "Bleeding ABS/DSC" before you start pressure bleeding, but does not explain what that does.

Bruce
So you bled the brake lines ignoring the scan tool? Seems like it would work.
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