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X5 E70 (2007 - 2013)
E70 BMW X5 produced between 2007 and 2013. Discuss the E70 X5 with other BMW owners here.

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  #1  
Old 07-10-2019, 02:47 PM
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2013 E70 xDrive35i...
Air blows cold on driver's side, warmer on passenger side. Both sides are on the same temperature [60°] with Max button on. Is this indicative of low free on or something more troubling? Thanks in advance.

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Old 07-10-2019, 02:54 PM
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Commonly a fouled side of the Hot-water Control Valve.

BMW IHKA HVAC is a hot water temperature controlled system with the engine heat radiator heat exchangers after down airstream the AC evaporator. The evaporator is always fully loaded and cabin set temperature(s) maintained by a PWM signal to the HCV from the IHKA control module / panel.

https://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/at...1&d=1562795751
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File Type: pdf 08_E70 Climate Control Systems.pdf (1.29 MB, 44 views)
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Old 07-10-2019, 03:26 PM
BabyUnicornTaco BabyUnicornTaco is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Doug Huffman View Post
Commonly a fouled side of the Hot-water Control Valve.

BMW IHKA HVAC is a hot water temperature controlled system with the engine heat radiator heat exchangers after down airstream the AC evaporator. The evaporator is always fully loaded and cabin set temperature(s) maintained by a PWM signal to the HCV from the IHKA control module / panel.

https://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/at...1&d=1562795751


+1 on this. My guess would be heater control valve. There are a couple pretty easy ways to test. If the valve is getting stuck you could tap on the top of the HCV and see if it knocks loose and gives you cold air. This is how bad they get inside. Click image for larger version

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Old 07-10-2019, 04:12 PM
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+1 on this. My guess would be heater control valve. There are a couple pretty easy ways to test. If the valve is getting stuck you could tap on the top of the HCV and see if it knocks loose and gives you cold air. This is how bad they get inside. Attachment 857715Attachment 857717


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Uuuuuurgh. Thanks guys! Tough DIY? How long to swap out old for new? Part cost? Or... what should it run to have a shop do it? I think it just started. I just got this ride but didn't notice it before and the weather has been warm/hot/muggy...

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Old 07-10-2019, 04:37 PM
BabyUnicornTaco BabyUnicornTaco is offline
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This is the OE BMW replacement. You can go cheaper but the trend is that you get what you pay for. It's not a bad DIY. Good time to flush and replace all your coolant. FCPEuro will give you a lifetime warranty.

https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-...e/64116910544/
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Old 07-10-2019, 06:47 PM
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easy swap 15 min you can grab it and swap it out w some hose clamp pliers. Just had mine done but car was blowing cold on pass side and hot and cold at the same time on driver.
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Old 07-10-2019, 06:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 320kplus View Post
2013 E70 xDrive35i...
Air blows cold on driver's side, warmer on passenger side. Both sides are on the same temperature [60°] with Max button on. Is this indicative of low free on or something more troubling? Thanks in advance.

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From my EXACT same experience...My Indy Evacuated the system ( I was low) and refilled the system with the proper amount of "refrigerant" and now both my sides blow COLD. They also put a dye in the system to see if there will be future leaks. They replaced the little pins (sorry dont know the name) in the filler valves as well. They said most people dont think to replace them and that's where the system can leak from. I would definitely try the Purge and Fill first...nominal cost and time. Good Luck!
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Old 07-10-2019, 08:05 PM
robnitro robnitro is offline
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Schraeder valves, yeah can't change those until you evacuate system.
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Old 07-10-2019, 08:20 PM
Masoe Masoe is offline
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lol...yup, those are the valves. Thanks
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Old 07-11-2019, 12:40 AM
deroy deroy is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 320kplus View Post
Uuuuuurgh. Thanks guys! Tough DIY? How long to swap out old for new? Part cost? Or... what should it run to have a shop do it? I think it just started. I just got this ride but didn't notice it before and the weather has been warm/hot/muggy...

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Yes DIY, esp on a straight 6. With the V8 it's really tight and fiddly. Hose clamps do a good job, but not perfect. Tuck some old towels in as backup.
As diagnosis of the valves; feel the two hoses leading to the firewall. In your case one should be hot.
I don't see how being low on refrigirant in the AC system would lead to your (strong) left/right contrast in temp output.
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Old 07-11-2019, 04:16 AM
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Originally Posted by deroy View Post
I don't see how being low on refrigirant in the AC system would lead to your (strong) left/right contrast in temp output.
It is an old wives’ tale. The tale is that only the evaporator nearest the expansion valve can carry load while the refrigerant charge is low. Be that as it may, and I have never seen a thermodynamic explanation, the BMW evaporator is folded so that the average cooling load is everywhere the same along the path from inlet to outlet.
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Old 07-11-2019, 05:21 AM
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Its not an old wives tale, older ones when the refrig was low would blow cold driver warm passenger. my valve was bad but I had the system vac and refilled too. back to crispy cold.
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Old 07-11-2019, 06:04 AM
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Originally Posted by 1bad540 View Post
Its not an old wives tale, older ones when the refrig was low would blow cold driver warm passenger. my valve was bad but I had the system vac and refilled too. back to crispy cold.
All of your personal anecdotes do not add up to one empirical datum. It is an old wives' tale.
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Old 07-11-2019, 06:41 AM
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+1 E53: Cold/warm problem cured by evac/recharge. I did a temp fix with a wallyworld rattle can quick charge until I could get it into the shop for a complete check out. That was about 5 years ago still blowing cold. Old wives tale or not a recharge fixed the problem.
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Old 07-11-2019, 06:54 AM
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+1 E53: Cold/warm problem cured by evac/recharge. I did a temp fix with a wallyworld rattle can quick charge until I could get it into the shop for a complete check out. That was about 5 years ago still blowing cold. Old wives tale or not a recharge fixed the problem. [/COLOR]
NO. No, the problem went away after the "recharge" not necessarily because of it. Post hoc ergo propter hoc is the weakest logic, just better than the arrow of time.
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Old 07-11-2019, 01:30 PM
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OP...There has been a lot of discussion on this topic in the past (google it) and there are a LOT of people that have had this problem fixed by a purge and fill. I don't know the reason or have data on how it fixed my issue, and frankly I don't care because the issue was fixed and has been for years now. Try it and report back.

FWIW, this brings back one of the issues I had with the fuel pump relay causing my vehicle not to start when temps went below 32 degrees F. I had people saying they couldn't understand why it would fail and cause the vehicle not to start at a certain temperature, BUT it did! $18 dollars later (part replaced at dealer during warranty work) and I have NOT been stranded in the cold every since (others have benefited from this as well). I don't know why it worked, but it did.
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Old 07-14-2019, 07:46 PM
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OP,

Push this button: and dial the vent back to cool. It took me waaay longer than I care to admit to realize why I had warm air coming out of my driver's side....

Pic didn't show but it's the 'manual mode' button with 3 air vent arrows and a person sitting down.

http://www.bavarianmw.com/images/boo...6/index.80.gif

Last edited by vinsonr; 07-14-2019 at 07:49 PM.
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Old 07-14-2019, 08:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vinsonr View Post
OP,

Push this button: and dial the vent back to cool. It took me waaay longer than I care to admit to realize why I had warm air coming out of my driver's side....

Pic didn't show but it's the 'manual mode' button with 3 air vent arrows and a person sitting down.

http://www.bavarianmw.com/images/boo...6/index.80.gif
Bingo! Passenger side was set to warmer. Now it's fixed. I'm still going to have the cold air temp checked and see where I'm at.
All the best guys!

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Old 07-15-2019, 06:41 PM
Pete_NZ Pete_NZ is offline
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Hahaa Love it when a fix performed in actual, live reality shows all the theorising and rationale based analysis and grandstanding arguments and "superior" assertions as worth the 2cents they are.
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Old 07-15-2019, 10:36 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Doug Huffman View Post
It is an old wives’ tale. The tale is that only the evaporator nearest the expansion valve can carry load while the refrigerant charge is low. Be that as it may, and I have never seen a thermodynamic explanation, the BMW evaporator is folded so that the average cooling load is everywhere the same along the path from inlet to outlet.
Not true. This has been posted and explained.
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OEM is not what BMW sells


http://www.bimmerzone.com/category/T...ricks_OEM.html

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Old 07-16-2019, 05:46 AM
brc5 brc5 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Doug Huffman View Post
It is an old wives’ tale. The tale is that only the evaporator nearest the expansion valve can carry load while the refrigerant charge is low. Be that as it may, and I have never seen a thermodynamic explanation, the BMW evaporator is folded so that the average cooling load is everywhere the same along the path from inlet to outlet.
It's not an old wives tale at all. I had the exact problem described, related to low refrigerant caused by a failing evaporator. The design of the evaporators means that the air coming off the entry point to the evaporator is colder than the air coming off the other side. When it is not working efficiently one side of the car gets cold air and the other gets warm air. It doesn't make sense but it's how it works out when you get a failing AC system and the internals of the BMW HVAC systems. Fix the problem and the air is cool out both sides again, without touching any heater parts.

Of course, you can have other problems that cause warm/cold air, but a failing AC system is absolutely one of the possibilities.
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Old 07-16-2019, 05:48 AM
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Evaporator inlet and outlet are on the same side.


One may see in the cartoon cutaway of green piece 5 the inlet and outlet ports and the fold at the bottom of the image.
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Scepticism and Animal Faith (1923)
Scepticism is the chastity of the intellect, and it is shameful to surrender it too soon or to the first comer: there is nobility in preserving it coolly and proudly through long youth, until at last, in the ripeness of instinct and discretion, it can be safely exchanged for fidelity and happiness.
(The Works of George Santayana p. 65)

Eschew eristical argumentation. I am responsible for what I write, not for your understanding of it.

Last edited by Doug Huffman; 07-16-2019 at 07:06 AM.
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Old 07-16-2019, 05:52 AM
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some of us dont care to argue, especially when weve had over 20 bmws and your on your 1st!! lol
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Old 07-16-2019, 07:35 AM
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Again...

https://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sh...re#post9821452


At the end of the day, hundreds of people have seen this behaviour w low Freon. My comments on differential diagnosis stand....
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Alignment here: The Definitive Alignment Thread

OE is Original Equipment aka 'BMW Original Parts' aka 'What you buy at the BMW dealer with a BMW label'

OEM is Original Equipment Manufacturer... EITHER the company that made the OE part or.... A part this is identical to the OE part, but is sold by the OEM under their own label


OEM is not what BMW sells


http://www.bimmerzone.com/category/T...ricks_OEM.html

https://www.turnermotorsport.com/t-OEvsOEM

Last edited by ard; 07-16-2019 at 07:37 AM.
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Old 07-16-2019, 07:47 AM
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Originally Posted by ard View Post
Again...

https://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sh...re#post9821452


At the end of the day, hundreds of people have seen this behaviour w low Freon. My comments on differential diagnosis stand....
Guys! Thank you all for your insight! No doubt we've all Learned something from just this one thread. This is exactly what these forms are for and about. ROCK ON!

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