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  #26  
Old 12-29-2014, 12:28 PM
6 Coupe 6 Coupe is offline
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Thank you OP! I've been looking all over for this DIY for the most heinous valve cover job of all time! 5 hours of dissassembly before getting to prying off the covers themselves.
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  #27  
Old 01-09-2015, 12:47 AM
Adiaiish Adiaiish is offline
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Hi, I have a left side driver 2005 BMW 645Ci, and I'm trying to get the valve cover out.
Well, it seems like I did everything possible to take the valve cover out, but still I'm stuck with one thing that is the "AC gas pipes" I belive that disturbing me to get it all the way out.

Is it necessary to take off the AC pipes, or am I missing something else?!?!
Please let me know ASAP, I'm stuck***128563;
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  #28  
Old 01-09-2015, 01:56 AM
Vlad Dracul Vlad Dracul is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Adiaiish View Post
Hi, I have a left side driver 2005 BMW 645Ci, and I'm trying to get the valve cover out.
Well, it seems like I did everything possible to take the valve cover out, but still I'm stuck with one thing that is the "AC gas pipes" I belive that disturbing me to get it all the way out.

Is it necessary to take off the AC pipes, or am I missing something else?!?!
Please let me know ASAP, I'm stuck***128563;
I don't recall having to take those pipes out. Did you already take apart the firewall? That should free up some space
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  #29  
Old 01-09-2015, 07:39 AM
HerbP HerbP is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Adiaiish View Post
Hi, I have a left side driver 2005 BMW 645Ci, and I'm trying to get the valve cover out.
Well, it seems like I did everything possible to take the valve cover out, but still I'm stuck with one thing that is the "AC gas pipes" I belive that disturbing me to get it all the way out.

Is it necessary to take off the AC pipes, or am I missing something else?!?!
Please let me know ASAP, I'm stuck***128563;
Remove the 2 bolts that hold the AC drier canister in place. You can gently pull the lines up out of the way. Do not disconnect the lines.
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  #30  
Old 01-16-2015, 12:00 PM
Adiaiish Adiaiish is offline
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Passenger seat belt and air bag lights on...

Well, no doubt it was a long process to get the valve cover gaskets done, but thank got it all went well. Except "one thing" which is the passenger seat belt and air bag lights r on since I reconnect the battary, and I can't figure why it's turned on.

Please help guys. That's the last thing I need to solve before I'm %100 done with that valve cover gaskets. The light r not really effect anything but it is disturbing my eyes)
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  #31  
Old 01-22-2015, 10:35 PM
Adiaiish Adiaiish is offline
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One more thing I figure after the job, unfortunnitly I still have some oil drip for some reason.
I already did both valve cover gaskets + I did the pen oil gaskets also, no leaks from any of those places, but somewhere on the left driver side kind of back of the engine still have drips. I'm really getting tired from that but from the other hand I want to prevent all the oil leaks ASAP!!
Pls let me know where else could it be??
Thanks)
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  #32  
Old 05-10-2015, 12:55 PM
stephane76700 stephane76700 is offline
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hi everybody

i've a 650i from december 2006, and my valve cover gasket or timing cover gasket is out
Oil leak ONLY when engine is cold, when the engine arrived at temp, absolutely not leak !
the leak is located from middle of the gasket for the timing cover between 2 torx screw and the second are between the valve cover and the screw of timing cover
i believe i have other leak at the other side of valve cover because my cam sensor are completly recovered by burned oil, it's very very very small because i've not seen any leak when engine is start.

do you think it's urgent to replace this fuc***g gasket or keep it like this and wait until the leak is more important and leak everytime at any temperature ?

my engine run correctly, no light error, just a very little rough at idle, but i've read in other post maybe it's vanos solenoid seized because INPA show different consign than actual value ( value is always at 119 or 120 )

thank you in advance !
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  #33  
Old 06-22-2015, 09:54 AM
your_man your_man is offline
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thanks
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  #34  
Old 08-07-2015, 03:23 PM
lajih lajih is offline
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How to remove alternator on 2005 645ci

Quote:
Originally Posted by SD6er View Post
Sounds the same as the 645 I pulled the alternator as I was doing the alternator bracket also. You don't have to pull the alternator you can just pull the lower bolt and loosen the top one. Then you can attach a wrench to the idler that is attached to the alternator and rotate it out of the way to gain access to the hidden bolt. The manual refers to this as "releasing" the alternator.
Hello SD6er, others,
I have a 2005 645ci and trying to remove alternator. Did you remove yours? For the life of me it is not coming out. I removed the fan cowl(for space), removed engine/alternator serpentine belt, removed 2 bolts holding alternator. The alternator swings, but does not come out. Was there a trick and I am overlooking something to slide out the alternator to remove the connectors in the back?

Thanks,
Lajih.
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  #35  
Old 09-14-2015, 03:22 AM
dave321 dave321 is offline
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sick645ci did you need any specialist tools for the job?
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  #36  
Old 12-01-2015, 10:55 AM
oRIDDLERo oRIDDLERo is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by M3 Ryan View Post
The drivers side has an oil port that leaks under pressure.
These can be done without removing the valve covers! way more efficient than taking the covers off if they aren't leaking then don't touch them!
Would you mind elaborating on this "oil port that leaks under pressure" on the drivers side? What is involved in fixing it without removing the cover? Any pictures would be awesome! Thanks!
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  #37  
Old 12-01-2015, 11:08 AM
stephane76700 stephane76700 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lajih View Post
Hello SD6er, others,
I have a 2005 645ci and trying to remove alternator. Did you remove yours? For the life of me it is not coming out. I removed the fan cowl(for space), removed engine/alternator serpentine belt, removed 2 bolts holding alternator. The alternator swings, but does not come out. Was there a trick and I am overlooking something to slide out the alternator to remove the connectors in the back?

Thanks,
Lajih.
Hi dear !
It's normal situation, when alternator will be out you understand why is So hard to remove.

Use big flat torx and move all way, after some try, alternator go out, dont Forget to keep with your hand for not damage Positive cable and little wire connected, it's better if you are 2 Person for unscrew 13mm.

For replace alternator, use any tool for hit little adaptor on the back of support for the Bolt , stop hit when adaptor is at the same level than alternator.

For more security, use long Bolt, screw on alternator et hit on bolt, if you have clear area, you can hit directly on bolt with alternator on engine for reduce Time and labor with flat screwdriver

Sorry for my bad english i hope you understand.

Good luck
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  #38  
Old 04-05-2016, 02:41 PM
BraveHelios BraveHelios is offline
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Eccentric cam sensor... tabs are kaputt!

Eccentric cam sensor... tabs are kaputt!

After spending hours trying to remove the driver side (left side) valve cover and realizing how much space is gained by removing the vent ducts; the valve cover finally came off... along with the eccentric cam sensor tabs!

It would seem to me that the connection can still be made to work if I used some silicone sealant to attach the wire/connector to the sensor.

Is this this feasible? Will it work?

Also... when I removed the Valvetronic stepper motor (Left side only so far); I did not 'unscrew' the motor; it just kind of popped out. What is the procedure at this point for the installation? I am aware of switching the ignition on (but no start) when I have everything back together to initialize the stepper motors. Do I turn the stepper motor clockwise to screw it back in place?

(2004 545i / 6 speed manual)

Last edited by BraveHelios; 04-05-2016 at 03:42 PM. Reason: update
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  #39  
Old 05-11-2016, 10:52 AM
Night Fury Night Fury is offline
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BraveHelios, what did you end up doing with VANOS actuators? I am in the same situation. Mine just popped out on both sided when I unbolted them. Pelican parts has a how to on this and in the comments they said that if this happens you just screw them back in on reassembly.

My second issue that the spark plug tubes (3 out of 4) are stuck to the valve cover. I tried grabbing them and removing by hand, but they are on really tight. Any advise on that would be great.

Thanks to all who contributed so far. Great info.
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  #40  
Old 05-11-2016, 12:43 PM
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Hsurf Hsurf is offline
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Just turn the motor clockwise until it meets the cover, put the four screws back in, job done. If I remember right you'll need to press it down the last little bit when you put the screws in to tighten it down, you'll be able to keep turning it but it will only go down so far.

HerbP gave me the solution for the tubes, put a long screw driver down the tube, press the end against the bottom of the tube and the top against the valve cover and just wind it round and round until the tube comes loose. Simple when you think about it but not when your in the middle of the job and can't see a way forward.
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  #41  
Old 05-11-2016, 01:17 PM
Night Fury Night Fury is offline
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Hsurf, thanks for the tip on the VANOS actuators.

As for the tubes, good news, I just removed them. Ended up reaching underneath the cover and pushing and pulling on the tubes (fore/aft in the direction of the car). After some squeaking they popped off one by one. You can reach all of them like that. What really helped was pushing and keeping the pressure on for some time. The bad news is that one of the tabs on the eccentric shaft sensor connector broke off when I was removing the valve cover itself. From what I read it happens to a lot of people. I found the broken off bit and am considering gluing it back on with some sort of high temp adhesive.
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  #42  
Old 05-11-2016, 10:48 PM
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Hsurf Hsurf is offline
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I also had one tab broken but I discovered it before even removing the cover (done on a previous repair I guess) I'd been driving around like that since buying the car without knowing and never had any issues, in fact it's still like it now several months after doing the cover. Since you have the tab I'd definitely give the repair a go but if it doesn't work you may well find your ok with just one tab.
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  #43  
Old 02-22-2017, 12:11 PM
oRIDDLERo oRIDDLERo is offline
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GREAT YouTube video on this job WITH the upper timing covers... This guy even go the driver side upper timing chain cover off without having to release the alternator = win.

Also, no one seems to list the torque specs on all of the bolts... does anyone have them?


Last edited by oRIDDLERo; 02-22-2017 at 01:33 PM.
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  #44  
Old 03-01-2017, 08:00 AM
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doru doru is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oRIDDLERo View Post
GREAT YouTube video on this job WITH the upper timing covers... This guy even go the driver side upper timing chain cover off without having to release the alternator = win.

Also, no one seems to list the torque specs on all of the bolts... does anyone have them?

I posted on Xoutpost the torque specs - did the valve stem seals and collapsible coolant pipe. Here is the post.
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  #45  
Old 02-22-2019, 10:13 AM
e63fn e63fn is offline
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Hey, for anyone who runs across this - now that these cars are teenagers those valve cover grommets are impossible not to break if you start just loosening the bolts. They're fused to the bolt head, and if they turn with the bolt like they want to, they snap. So, some contortions with channel locks or wedging a flathead in there can help to keep the grommet still while you turn the bolt. I only broke a couple of them on the driver's side before I figured this out (and a couple more after). Good luck!
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  #46  
Old 03-11-2020, 09:34 PM
ducatidoc1 ducatidoc1 is offline
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Hi all, so ive replaced the valve cover gasket on the drivers side of my 2008 E64. thanks for the write up, it was a great help! now I amdealing with a fault code 2a13. any ideas on the cause? I prefer not to be chasing out a bunch of new parts... Herb, Yorgi, Beuler?
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  #47  
Old 03-12-2020, 03:54 AM
MrFledge MrFledge is offline
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Great DIY! I am about to tackle this task and was wondering if there was a parts/shopping list. Does anyone know of a "Valve cover gasket replacement kit"? Something that would cover all essential parts to do the job? Thanks!
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  #48  
Old 05-20-2020, 07:37 AM
Mood_rida Mood_rida is offline
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I have e64 2008 I would like to thank you so much but I have a question for you , what is the causes that made the cover band is it because the screws diagram? I have oil leak spotted from the cover thought it's the rubber first then I looked closely , to get the story with pic I've posted the problem here please have a look
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  #49  
Old 06-13-2020, 04:17 AM
DeadRaton DeadRaton is offline
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Hello everyone I have a question about the valve cover itself. Upon installation I realized one of the red plastic tabs or guides on the lower side of VC was broken. How important is this tab and can I replace it? I don't want to spend money on a new valve cover but I will if I have to. Thank you guys.
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  #50  
Old 06-13-2020, 04:44 AM
BabyUnicornTaco BabyUnicornTaco is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DeadRaton View Post
Hello everyone I have a question about the valve cover itself. Upon installation I realized one of the red plastic tabs or guides on the lower side of VC was broken. How important is this tab and can I replace it? I don't want to spend money on a new valve cover but I will if I have to. Thank you guys.


If you are talking about these then they can be removed. I removed mine. It will make installation easier. Click image for larger version

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